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Hemming with a closed cut is one of the ways to process the bottom of products. And along with other methods, it is used very often. But it is used only for products sewn from thin and medium fabrics.

It is understandable. Hem the bottom with a closed cut on a product sewn from thick fabric, the bottom of the product may become too thick and rough, it will puff up terribly.

A hem seam with a closed cut is sometimes called a double hem. In general, this is correct. When processing the bottom of the product, indeed, two hem allowances are tucked onto the wrong side at once.

Double hemming on the bottom of products is better suited for products with a straight silhouette or only slightly flared or tapered.

For flared products with a rounded bottom (, skirts - semi-sun, skirts - flared, skirts - year, wide trousers: straight and flared, shoulder products with a lower part in the form of skirts or trousers listed above, etc. etc.) a narrow hem (from 0.6 to 1.2 cm) with a closed cut is better (see below in the article).

How to make a hem seam with a closed cut?

First of all, the following are applied to the edge of the product: 1) the bottom line and 2) the fold line of a small allowance on a large hem allowance.

Lines are applied to the fabric in different ways. You can read about them in the article "".

The width of the allowances for the model.

If you understand that the bottom of the product will need to be made more rigid so that it keeps its shape better, or you will have to hard work for laying a line along the hem (difficult material: either slippery or very mobile, etc.), then you need to do this (reinforcement) just at this stage.

We strengthen (if necessary) with a suitable adhesive cushioning material the seam allowance for the hem (the one that is wider).

We notice a smaller hem allowance on the wrong side.

And iron the resulting fold.

If the folded edge holds up well in the "conditions offered to it", then the manual auxiliary stitch can already be eliminated at this stage.

We proceed to tucking a large hem allowance.

In order for the processing of the bottom of the product to look neat and turn out without distortions, without creases and without folds of the material at the hem, it is necessary to pre-tuck and fix all the additions of the material layers with pins and along the entire contour of the processed bottom of the product.

And after turning a large hem allowance, and with it a small one, manual stitches with straight stitches will help to “pick up” the fixation of the material layers.

The 1st line is laid at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the bottom line of the product. 2nd, at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the fold line of a small allowance on a large hem.

If the hem allowance is too wide or the fabric is unstable, slippery, or too pliable, the hem allowance should be fixed with another hand stitch. In the middle of the hem.

After the hem allowance has taken its rightful place along the bottom of the product, we iron the fold of the material formed by turning the hem allowance to the wrong side.

It remains to lay a line along the bottom of the product.

This is how I wrote: "... it remains to lay a line ...", but you must admit that sometimes it turns out to be just the most difficult thing, to make it beautiful, even and neat.

On the front side, the line is laid at the desired distance from the edge of the product (according to the model).

But at the same time, from the wrong side, it should pass at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold line of the smaller allowance on the main hem allowance.

Usually, the stitching that secures the hem with a closed cut is made with threads in the color of the product being sewn. This is what happens most often. But sometimes (according to the model) such a line is performed as a finishing line, with threads, to one degree or another, but differing from the main color tone of the product.

Finishing lines can be two, three. A line (or several) can also be special - decorative (according to the model).

Attaching a closed-cut hem allowance to the edge of a garment is just one way to secure the hem. There are others.
The hem of the bottom of the product can be hemmed with a special line of the sewing machine.

The stitches are sewn straight over the edge of the fold at the hem.

The hemming allowance of a seam with a closed cut can be fixed on the wrong side of the product.

And if, along the upper edge of the hem from the wrong side, lay the most ordinary line to the edge,

and then sew the hem of the hem with a manual blind stitch with loop stitches,

then from the inside of the product the hem will look stitched, and from the face, even traces of it will not be visible.

Narrow hem.

A narrow seam (0.6 - 1.2 cm) in a hem with a closed cut is performed somewhat differently than a regular one (the one described above in the article).

The fact is that for both hem allowances, when making a narrow seam into a hem with a closed cut, the same amount of material is allocated.

And although a narrow seam in a hem with a closed cut is also a double hem, but unlike the usual double hem, only one line is applied to the edge of the fabric. Allowances are the same!

For example, to hem the bottom on thin fabrics with a width of 1.2 cm, you will need 2.4 cm of allowance, for a hem with a width of 0.8 cm, you will need 1.6 cm. Etc.

But for medium fabrics for a hem with a width of 1.2 cm, you will need the same allowance of 2.4 cm, but plus 2 mm for folds. For a hem width of 0.8 cm, respectively, 1.6 + 0.2 cm per fold.

Fold the hem allowance in half, bringing the cut on the hem (inner to finished product) butt to the intended bottom line of the product.

The line is laid at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold of the inner allowance.

As a rule, narrow hem seams with a closed cut are made with threads in the color of the material. The edge of the product is simply processed without focusing on it.

A narrow hem seam with a closed cut is most often used when processing the bottom of shirts.

To the seams at the hem with a closed cut, with a stretch, but still can be attributed, the execution of double-delayed products along the bottom.

A narrow hem seam with a closed cut along the bottom of the product can be performed using a special foot, which comes with a set of feet for most modern sewing machines.

That's all I wanted to tell about the seam in the hem with a closed cut. Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

Shall we continue?

High demands are placed on machine seams. The quality and appearance of the product depends on how the machine seam is made.

Depending on the purpose, machine seams are divided into connecting(for fastening parts of the product), regional(for processing edges and cuts, as well as to protect them from shedding) and finishing.

IN connecting seams details of the product lie on both sides of the seam. For example, seams connecting sections of shelves and backs, shoulder sections, sections of sleeves, etc.

Types of connecting seams:

- stock used when joining shoulder and side cuts, bodice with a skirt, sewing sleeve cuts, as well as when sewing sleeves into armholes, attaching extensions, etc. 3.4), ironed (5.6), lined (7.8);

- tuning seams, as well as stitching, are used to connect parts of the product (mainly from thick fabric), using for stitching coquettes, other parts along different shaped lines, etc. There are: with an open cut (9), with a closed cut (10);

- overlay seams used to connect coquettes, patch pockets, etc., can be with an open cut (11), with a closed cut (12,13), with two closed cuts (14-18);

- double seam(19) used in the manufacture of blouses from transparent fabrics, any products from cotton fabrics and bed linen;

– backstitch (20) used mainly in the manufacture of underwear, men's shirts, sports and industrial clothing.

Edge seams used for processing the edges of parts and sections. Details are located on one side of the seam. For example, seams for processing the bottom of the product and sleeves, seams for processing sides, collars, etc.

Types of edge seams:

– seam used to connect such parts of the product, as a result of turning out of which the seam will be located along the edge, and its reserves - inside, between the parts, are in edging (1.2), in a split (3), in a simple frame (4), in a complex frame (5,6,7);

• Unusual patch pocket for a coat and…
• How to process the bottom of the product and sleeves.18 ...

What a beginner seamstress needs to know.

Now it's time to get acquainted with the fourth sewing lesson, in which we will talk about machine seams.

According to their purpose, machine seams are divided into connecting, edge, decorative and finishing.

Connecting seams serve to connect parts;

Edge seams - for processing sections of parts from the wrong side;

Decorative and finishing seams - for decoration of the product.

Hem seam with closed cut

A hem seam with a closed cut is used when hemming the bottom of the product, the edges of sheets, towels, etc. The cut of the part is folded to the wrong side, first by 0.5-1 cm, then again to the width of the hem, basted and stitched at a distance of 0.1- 0.2 cm from the first fold.

Open hem seam

A hem seam with an open cut is used to process the inner cuts of the edges of the bands, facings, necklines, armholes, etc. The cut is folded inside out by 0.5 cm and sewn on the wrong side at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold.

Seam with double hemming cut

A double hemmed seam (narrow) seam is used when hemming seams when a narrow seam is needed, for example, when sewing the bottom of flared skirts, the edges of frills, flounces.
The section of the part is folded inside out by 0.3-0.5 cm and sewn at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold, then cut to the line, folded again and sewn next to the first line.

Coquettes and other details are sewn with a stitching seam. Perform it with two lines: connecting and connecting-finishing. There are two types: with two and one open cut. In the first case, two parts are folded with the front sides inward, the cuts are trimmed and connected with a stitching seam equal to the width of the finishing line plus 1-1.5 cm. The seam is ironed. On the front side, a finishing line is laid at the desired distance. When making a stitching seam with one closed and one open cut, the parts are folded with their right sides inward so that the cut of one part protrudes beyond the cut of the other by the width of the finishing line plus 0.5 cm, and grind at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the cut top detail. The seam is ironed in the direction of a smaller cut. On the front side, a finishing line is laid.

The false seam can be with open (a) and one folded (b) sections. Do it in one line. An open seam seam is used when joining cushioning parts, such as a bead gasket. Sections of adjacent parts are superimposed one on top of the other, the line is placed between them. Seam width 0.1-1 cm.
A false seam with one folded cut is used to connect coquettes, patch pockets, etc. The cut of one part is folded, swept up, ironed and applied to the front side of the second part along the intended line.
Then they baste and adjust at a distance from the folded edge provided by the model.

Hello again! Milla Sidelnikova is with you, and today we will continue our acquaintance with the subspecies of marginal seams.

Hem seams.

Hem stitches are used very often. Because they can process both the bottom of the product, and the bottom of the sleeves, and the inner edges of the picks, facings, armholes, etc., as well as process the edges of the finishing parts on products sewn from light fabrics. For example, .

Hemmed seams come with open and closed sections.

Which seams in the hem - with open or closed sections, the product or its finishing details will be processed, depends on the thickness of the fabric from which the product is made, on the shedding of its sections, on the features of the sewn model of clothing, well, and, of course, on the desires of the person sewing it the product itself.

Hem seam with an open cut.

In order to make a hem seam with an open cut, the processed edge must be folded to the wrong side by the width of the allowance (according to the model) and a line should be laid at a distance L from the cut. L= 0.5 - 0.7 cm.

A hem seam with an open cut can be with a raw cut.

Hem seam with an open and not swept cut.

And with a swept cut.

Hem seam with an open and swept cut.

A hem seam with an open cut can be made using a special stitch, which is in the “set” of stitches for any “serious” sewing machine. Although I do not exclude that such a line on different sewing machines may differ slightly in the way it is performed, according to appearance finished stitch or paws - special sewing tools for its implementation.

Hemming seam with an open, not overcast cut, made on a household sewing machine, with a special line.

Hem seam with an open, overcast cut, made on a household sewing machine, with a special line.

Hem seam with an open cut finished with a zigzag stitch.

A hem seam with an open cut can also be made with a zigzag stitch. Such a line will simultaneously secure the bent allowance and protect the cut from shedding.

Hem seam with a closed cut.

When making a hem seam with a closed cut, the allowance is tucked in twice. First, by L = 0.7 - 1 cm, the second time by the value provided by the model. The line along the folded allowance is laid at a distance equal to L1 \u003d 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. The line can be laid both from the front and from the inside, but it should pass along at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the top fold of the hem from the wrong side.

Hem seam with a closed cut, made on a household sewing machine, with a special line.

With a special line of a household sewing machine, you can also sew a hem seam with a closed cut. This is the same hem with a closed cut as the previous one, only in this case, instead of the usual machine stitch, a special one is laid.

Bending seam with a closed cut, finished with a zigzag stitch.

A hem seam with a closed cut can be made and. It can be laid at different distances from the inner and outer folds (according to the model, if desired).

Narrow seam or seam "semi-Moscow" and "Moscow".

In places where a narrow marginal seam is needed, “half-Moscow” and “Moscow” seams are used. For example, when processing the edges of flounces, ruffles, frills, the bottom of flared skirts, etc.

"Half-Moscow" seam.

When performing a “half-Moscow seam”, an allowance of the part, 0.5 mm wide, is folded to the wrong side and a straight machine stitch is laid at a distance of 0.1–0.2 mm from the fold (for fabrics with non-shrinking cuts).

or (for fabrics with fraying seams) zigzag stitch to the edge of the folded fabric.

Now you need to cut off the excess fabric close to the laid line. And the half-Moscow seam is ready.

When the product is also sewn with a lining, the hem seam can be made while securing the hem with the lining. This can be done by simply folding the raw and overcast hem section to the wrong side.

Hem seams with stitched lining.

Hem seam with an open, raw cut, with a stitched lining.

Hem seam with an open, overcast cut, with a stitched lining.

Or you can fold the lining at the same time as closing the hem.

Hem seam with closed sections, with stitched lining.

It was, if I may say so, a dry theory. By clicking on the links below, you can see the most important types of seams in the hem, so to speak, in action.

We got acquainted with the edge seams in the hem, we move on. Read in the next article seams, a subspecies of edge seams.

Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

Connecting seams

Stitched seams are used to join the details of the product, and are the most common when sewing products. Seams are sewn with a simple machine stitch. The stitch length depends on the fabric and the purpose of the seam.

Rice. 1. Types of seams - connecting

Stitch seam "on edge"

To form a seam on the edge, two parts are folded with the front sides inward, the cuts are equalized and a machine line is laid at a distance of 0.5–2.0 cm from the edge.

The seam can be made both without landing, and with landing of one of the part to be sewn. When making a seam
with landing, the upper part is seated. Rib stitching is used when joining sleeves with armholes, pocket burlap parts, and other stitching stitches.

Stitch seam "in an iron"

When making a stitched seam, the seam is first stitched on the edge, then the allowances are ironed and both allowances are ironed on one of the sides. The stitch seam is used to join the side, shoulder and other seams of products made of thin fabrics.

Stitched seam "in ironing"

When performing a stitched seam, the stitching is first performed on the edge, then the line is ironed, the allowances are ironed in different directions. The seam is used to connect the side, shoulder and other seams of products.

Rice. 2. Types of seams - connecting overhead

Patch seam with open cuts

To make an overlay seam with two open cuts, the parts are laid on top of each other with their faces up and grinded at the same distance from the cuts. The cuts are left open. The width of the allowances is 0.2–0.7 cm. This type of seam is used when sewing fabric products that do not require processing - loden, sheepskin fabrics, parts of gaskets, etc.

Overlap seam with one closed cut

When making an overlay seam with one open cut, a seam seam is first performed on the edge. Then the line is ironed, the seam allowances are ironed onto one of the parts, along which a finishing line is laid on the front side. The distance from the stitching line to the stitching line depends on the model 0.5–1.0 cm.

If the model provides for two finishing lines, then the distance from the stitching line to the first stitching line is 0.2 cm. The distance from the first line to the second is 0.5–0.7 cm.

A patch stitch with one open cut is used to connect parts (for example, a yoke with a shelf) in the manufacture of clothing.

Overlapped seam with two closed cuts

a) To make an overlay seam with two closed sections, the edges of the sections are folded to the wrong side or swept up by 0.5–0.7 cm. One edge is placed on the other and a line is laid at a distance of 0.1–0.2 cm from the folded edges Belts, straps, cuffs, etc. are processed with this seam.

b) The second way to make a false seam with two closed sections is to bend both sections by 0.5–0.7 cm, put on the product and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from each edge. Used when performing backstage.

Rice. 3. Types of seams - connecting linen

french stitch

To make a French or double seam, the parts are folded inside out and stitched with a seam width of 0.3–0.5 cm. Then the part is turned right side out and the stitching seam is straightened so that it is located along the edge. The second line is laid at a distance of 0.5–0.7 cm from the fold so that the seam cut is sealed inside. This type of seam is used when sewing clothes from loose and transparent fabrics.

Stitching seam

To make a sewing seam, two parts are folded with their faces inward, the allowance for one part is cut off to 0.5 cm. Then the parts are ground down. The allowances are folded to the side of the part so as to close the smaller section. A slice of a larger allowance is folded over and a second line is laid at a distance of 0.1–0.2 cm from the folded edge. The width of the sewing seam is 0.7–1.0 cm.

Seam "in the castle"

The seam "in the lock" is similar in design to the stitching, but is performed a little differently. First, an overlay seam is performed with two open sections. Then each piece is turned to the cut
and adjust according to allowance. The lock stitch is very durable and is used when sewing products where reinforced stitching is required - work clothes, backpacks, etc.

Rice. 4. Types of seams - finishing

Topstitch

To make a stitching seam, first a stitched seam is made, then the seam allowances are laid out in different directions and two finishing stitches are laid on the front side at the same distance from the stitching stitch. The distance from the stitching line to the boring line depends on the model (0.2-0.5 cm), from the cut of the seam to the boring line - 0.2-0.5 cm. not allowed. For example, in leather goods.

Overstitching

To make a seam, it is necessary to mark the required width of the fold, lay the fold according to the markup and stitch. The seam is used to make folds on products.

Open seam

To sew a topstitch with an open cut, it is necessary to sew the part according to the markup, turn it to the front side and topstitch along the edge. The seam allowance remains open. Such a seam is used when making pockets, yokes, etc.

Closed seam

It is carried out in the same way as an open-cut overstitch, but the seam allowance is cut off and sewn inside with a finishing seam. Such a seam is used when making pockets, coquettes, etc.

Rice. 5. Types of seams - finishing

Patch seam with piping

Kant put between the details according to the markup, stitch. Lay the line at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the edge of the piping. Turn the parts to the front side, lay the allowances on one of the parts, iron. It is used when finishing seams on the front side of products and on the lining.

Turned seam with piping

Kant folded with the detail of the product, stitched. Turn the details to the front side, iron. This type of seam is used when finishing pockets, collars, bed linen, etc.

Rice. 6. Types of seams - edge

Open seam

When making a seam, the oblique trim is attached to the part of the product at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, folded to the front side and adjusted 1 mm to the right of the edge of the trim. The inner cut remains open and can be lined or left open, depending on the product.

Seam with closed cut

When making a seam, sew an oblique trim to the allowance of the product at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, wrap the allowance with an inlay, tuck the edge of the inlay and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge. It is used when edging sections of products without lining.

edging

When performing edging with a braid, a braid with closed sections is used. The width of the ribbon is determined by the model. To make a seam, the edge of the part is wrapped with a braid folded in half, a seam is laid along the edge of the braid. It is used for edging pockets, collars and other details.

Border seam "in the frame"

To make a seam, the oblique facing must be folded in half, ironed. Apply a facing according to the markup, make a seam, bend the facing, iron. This type of seam is used when processing pockets in a frame.

Overlapping seam "In a split"

When making a seam into a split, first a stitch seam is performed “on the edge”, then the parts are turned to the front side, the seam is straightened so that it is located along the edge. The seam is used when processing belts and other double-sided parts.

Overlapping seam "in piping"

When performing a facing seam “into a split”, first a seam seam is performed “on the edge”, then the parts are turned to the front side, the seam is straightened to form a piping on one side. The seam is used in the processing of pick-ups, collars, cuffs and other parts of clothing.

Rice. 7. Types of seams - edge

Overstitched seam with closed trim

To make a seam, it is necessary to bend the inlay in half, sew to the product detail along the edge at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, turn the inlay to the front side and stitch along the edge. Such a seam can be used to process the bottom of parts and sleeves, turn pockets, etc.

Overstitch with double binding

To process the seam, it is necessary to sew one side of the inlay along the edge of the part, unscrew the inlay to the front side, fold along the edge and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge of the inlay.

Rice. 8. Narrow edge seams

Moscow seam

To perform the allowance, it is necessary to tuck in 0.5 cm and lay a line at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge. Cut off the excess allowance, bend the edge of the part by 0.3 mm and lay the second line on top of the first. The Moscow seam is used to process the edges of products made of thin fabrics - scarves, scarves, etc.

Zigzag

To make a zigzag seam, you need to fold the cut and lay a line along the edge. The stitch width and frequency is determined by the model. Cut off excess allowance. Such a seam is used for processing the edges of flounces, sewing knitwear, etc.

Hem seam with open cut

A hem seam with an open cut is made in this way: the seam cut is processed with an overlock seam, the allowance is folded and adjusted.

Such a seam is used when bending the bottom and sleeves of products.

Hem seam with closed cut

When making a hem seam with a closed cut, the seam cut is folded over by 0.5–0.7 cm. The line is laid at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.