who will share with you how she makes the cover for her notebooks!

Hello! I will tell novice needlewomen how to make a soft cover,

cover it with leather and how to reunite the page block and cover into a single whole.

I hope this MK will also be useful to experienced needlewomen)

Let's get started :)

1. You can make a notepad block yourself. But if you don’t have enough experience in this matter or don’t have time for it at all, then I advise buy READY BLOCK in the FANTASY store.

• In order to make a cover for our notebook, you need to measure the height, width and thickness of the block (in my case it is 21cm * 14.5 cm * 3cm).
• Now you need to add 0.5 cm to the height and width and only 2-3 mm (0.2-0.3 cm) to the thickness. As a result, we must cut out 3 parts from cardboard:

The left side of the cover is 21.5*15cm;

Spine - 21.5*3.3cm

• We place our parts parallel at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from each other and glue them together using strips plain paper and glue.

2. Now you need to cut a piece of padding polyester 1-2 cm larger on each side than our cover and sew it along the edge with a machine stitch. After the stitching is done, you can cut off the excess padding exactly along the edge of the cardboard.

3. A piece of faux leather should be 2-3 cm larger on each side than our prepared cover. We turn the leather face down, place the cover on top with the padding polyester facing down and place it in the center of the leather. Apply glue to the top of the cover (3cm from the edge). We bend and glue 2-3 cm of leather onto the cover. Then we smear the bottom of the cover with glue and, stretching the skin a little (!), glue it to the cover.

• Now you need to decorate the corners: cut the leather folded onto the cover along the cardboard almost to the end, not reaching 0.2 cm from the corner. We cut off the excess skin at an angle, preferably 45 degrees, leaving a small “tail” as in the photo. We glue the “tail” to the end of the cover - I use “super moment GEL” (it does not flow and is very convenient to work with).

T Now coat the end of the cover with super glue and bend the edges of the skin.

5. Cut out the endpapers exactly to the size of the page block. As I already wrote above, my block is 21 cm * 14.5 cm, which means I cut out a rectangle 21 * 29 cm and bend it in half - this will be our endpaper, we need 2 of them. For the endpapers, I advise you to use thick paper (!) - at least 180 g/sq.m.

• Lubricate the edge of the endpaper, which will be adjacent to the block, with glue (or cover with double-sided tape), the width of the glue strip is 1-1.5 cm - no more. Glue the endpaper to the block. We do the same with the 2nd endpaper.

6. The spines of the blocks are always glued with gauze, so now we need to put it to work :) We put a sheet of regular office paper under the endpaper (so as not to stain the block with glue) and completely coat the side of the endpaper (which will be adjacent to the cover) with glue. Fold the edges of the gauze over the endpaper and glue it.

• Now we put the block into the cover so that the inner edge of the cover coincides with the edge of the spine of the block and glue the endpaper. Please ensure that the distance above and below (from the cover to the block) is the same.

• We do the same with the other endpaper - we put a sheet under it, smear it with glue, fold the gauze over the endpaper and coat it well with glue, then simply close the cover. Let it dry. The notepad is ready :)

The color scheme was also chosen: ivory, ocher and brown shades. Polish paper set Wihte rose, bought in a store FANTASY perfect for this order! The paper is very, very beautiful:):):)

Another one good idea men's gift. Many business men have a favorite diary or notebook, which he has been using for a very long time and the cover of which is already quite worn out. It would be a shame to throw it away - there are a lot of important records there! In this master class we will tell you how to make an excellent leather cover without special tools.

Materials:
A piece of soft leather;
scissors;
PVA glue, preferably carpentry glue;
glue brush;
clamps;
paper 120 g/m2, you can take paper for scrapbooking if it is the right size;
self-healing mat;
stationery knife;
ruler;
pencil;
decor (chain, heart, etc.).

How to make a leather notebook cover.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

We take the decor: a chain, a heart and a lock.

18

In principle, the production of simple forms - a cover, a bracelet, a belt, etc. - does not require any special skills, the most important thing is the material itself (leather), and the tool - a stationery knife, an awl, a pencil, a hammer and rivets will be enough. Also, instead of a stationery knife and an awl, you can use a jamb knife and a chisel for wood carving. This master class is about how you can quickly and easily make a leather notebook cover with a pen holder at home. The lesson is aimed at beginners - professionals will be able to do the same thing much more elegantly, but this method, in my opinion, has a right to life. You can use both natural and artificial leather. I have an artificial one.

First we cut off a rectangle of leather - the main part of the cover. The size depends on the size of your notebook. My book is 148 mm high, the spread length is 225 mm. I cut a piece to measure 165mm x 250mm. This is the size I came up with after several trials. Any less and I'd have to cut the book cover down to fit, but any more and it looks awkward and untidy.

I mark the cover using an awl, but a pen or pencil works just fine. I briefly soak the leather in hot water so that it smoothes out, becomes soft and pliable for work. You have to work on such steamed leather, and better process Do not stretch the fabrication too much.

If you use genuine leather, work more delicately and carefully. I'm a brute force person, so I use a hammer and a block to soften the impact of the hammer on the print.

With one hand, I hold the print and the block firmly so that nothing moves, and I hit the block repeatedly with a hammer, evenly and so that the impression is completely imprinted, and not partially.

The little otter on the back cover was made in the same way, but certainly required less effort than the main emblem. I bend the leather cover while it is still damp. This way it will dry and take the desired final shape. I leave it overnight.

Now, while the leather is still damp (the leather takes about a day to dry), I use special chisels to make a border around the perimeter of the cover. In principle, you can use chisels for carving.

Now I use a copier (a special tool with a wheel; we call it a “copier”, produced, for example, by Gamma) to mark the line for the seam. Since the leather is still damp, the stitches will mark well. I start marking the stitches from the corners, this way I will have a stitching hole right in the corner. On the long side, I mark from the corner to the middle, then start from the opposite corner.

Everything is marked and ready to dry. In the photo the cover is still flat, but before drying I folded it so that it would take its finished shape when dry.

While the cover is drying, you can work on the “H” shaped clasp. Its dimensions are: two “sticks” 35 x 20 mm and a crossbar 40 x 22 mm. The total element size is 97 x 110 mm.
Again I mark the notches with an awl.

I cut out the element from the leather with a stationery knife.

I round off the ends of the short sides using scissors.

Again I mark the lines along which I will sew and make a notch around the perimeter.

I bevel the skin along the edges of the element.

It's time to add snaps to the clasp. I make the holes for the buttons using a hole punch, which will help you make holes better than pliers. But you can also use real or.

The top part is finished.

Riveting part of the base.

One done, one in progress.

I recently received great set alphabet (punches for minting). They have just the right size of letters to write on the long part of the clasp. I placed a piece of duct tape on this piece and then marked the letters so that there was good spacing and all the letters were aligned.

This is done on dry skin (I don’t see the point in doing it on wet skin). It is advisable to hit it hard and punch through the letters with one hit, otherwise it may move out.

These are the kind of fasteners you can make as a result.

Now I'm going to add a pen holder. In fact, it can be done at the very end. For it I took a piece of goatskin (approximately 0.6 mm). I don't have exact measurements for this element, so I cut the piece off according to my eye and with some room to spare.

The holder will be attached to the inside of the clasp. I mark a line for the seam on the fastener and make holes using an awl (a piece of cork as a spacer makes the work safer and the tool does not deteriorate).

I sew with an overlap stitch.

Having sewn one long side, turn it, sew on the short side, turn it and go to the other long side.

Sew the long side, reaching its edge, secure the stitch. We’ll finish here so that we end up with a long narrow pocket just for a pen.

Hopefully your cover is dry and now we can attach the buttons to it.

Use the clasp to mark where these buttons need to be placed. I put the book inside the cover, put the pen in the holder and I can see where everything should be. Then punch the holes.

Now all the buttons are installed.

I check the placement and dimensions again and mark where the clasp loops will be at the back. Then pinch the clasp loops and sew them to the cover.

Both loops are now sewn on.

If your favorite book has a seriously tattered cover, and you want to make a leather binding for it, then there are two ways to solve this problem: take the book to a book workshop, where they will make you a beautiful, but, let’s say right away, not a cheap leather cover, or make leather binding yourself.

When choosing the second option, you will not only save a lot of money, but you will also be proud that you yourself have extended the life of your favorite book for a long time.

For restoration you will need:

• thick cardboard
• scissors
• wood glue
• book spine fabric
• decorative elements (if cover decoration is needed).

Two book covers are cut out of thick cardboard. These covers are slightly larger than the width and height of the pages. In height and width, the cardboard should be 3 mm higher and wider than the page (on each side).

Then you will need to glue the top and bottom cardboard covers to the fabric spine with wood glue.

We calculate the dimensions of the spine as follows: take the height and width of all the pages of the book and add a margin of 1.5 cm to these parameters on each side.

From the bottom, top and sides this allowance will be used to glue both cardboard covers to the spine. For strength, we glue it all with wood glue, not stationery glue.

When this blank of covers and spine is completely dry, we proceed to attach the females of the book to it. This can be done using the same wood glue, coating the fabric spine and the back of the pages well where they are fastened together.

Then glue a piece of leather, or leatherette, the same size as the spine, on top of the spine. Subsequently, it is to it and to the cardboard covers that the leather cover will be glued.

The leather can be cut out for each lid separately, if there is no large piece of leather to wrap it around the entire book at once, or you can make a single pattern that takes into account the overlap inside the cardboard lids.

How to make a leather binding for a book step by step can be seen below in the step-by-step schematic drawing (see photo):

If you have a great desire to make the cover not only expensive and practical, but also to decorate it in a special way, then you can make various decorations for the top cover of the book, using decorative elements made of the same leather (the texture and colors can be use whatever you like).

In addition to decorations, you can make overhead corners from decorative metal elements so that the corners do not rub.

You can also make the book close with a beautiful miniature lock. Leather straps with clasps can be used for closure.

For those who, due to work or hobbies, often have to deal with purchasing notebooks, this idea will be interesting. You can make a high-quality cover from genuine leather with your own hands, in which you just need to change sheets of paper as you use the previous blocks. You can design the print yourself, make embossing according to your own sketch, etc. It is very convenient in this cover that the clasp, which prevents the product itself from swinging open, also serves as a holder for a pen or pencil.

Materials

To make a reusable leather cover with your own hands you will need:

• a piece of thick leather of suitable parameters;
• small metal binder for paper;
• sharp knife;
• tool for punching holes in leather;
• office clips;
• rivets and tools for fastening them.

Step 1. Before cutting, a piece of leather must be leveled and fixed on a dense, hard surface using office clips. Take moderately thick leather. It should hold its shape, but you will need to bend it. Be sure to take these requirements into account when selecting the source material.

Step 2. Next, you need to cut out the cover itself and transfer the desired image or print onto it. In this case, everything was done using laser machine, but the whole process can be repeated manually. This will take more time.

The print can be applied manually by embossing using stamps, or the desired design/pattern can be drawn using special paints for leather.

Step 3. Make them in the places marked for the holes. To do this, use a knife and a tool to punch round holes for the rivets.

Step 4. From a small piece of leather, preferably in a contrasting shade, cut out a clasp-holder.

Step 5. Using rivets, attach the metal binding to the cover to secure the pages.

Step 6. Bend part of the holder clasp and secure it in this position with small rivets.