Breeding red Californian worm for fishing. California worms and their breeding at home as a business. Pros and cons of business

Breeding the red Californian worm (RCW) at home is a very profitable activity, because the food for the CRC is any organic waste, which is processed by the worm into a balanced, environmentally friendly fertilizer vermicompost. Also, the California worm multiplies very quickly, which allows the worm to be sold biomass and individually to fishing shops and agricultural enterprises, as protein supplements for animals and birds.

The best type of earthworm for breeding at home and industrially is the red Californian worm. Before purchasing worms, please note that the worms must be mobile and red in color. At first, the worm should be in its native substrate to get used to the new food.

A high-quality California red worm broodstock (family) should number at least 1,500 individuals.

To breed the California worm at home, use boxes, piles (beds), compost heaps or pits. Organic waste is used as food for worms: manure, bird droppings, plant tops, fallen leaves, straw, wood chips, sawdust, food vegetable waste, cardboard, paper, etc.

Basic rules for preparing substrate (compost) for further colonization of worms:

Do not use chlorinated water to moisten compost. Chlorine is poisonous to worms. If the water is chlorinated, you need to let it stand for 2-3 days, the chlorine will go away, you can also use rain water
It is forbidden to use fresh manure, since in the process of burning out the manure, its temperature will rise to 70-800C and the worm will die
It is not recommended to use old manure that has lain for more than 3 years; it contains a small amount of useful substances for worms.

Organic waste is collected in heaps and moistened. In this way they rot for 1-3 months.

Dimensions of the compost pile:

pile width 1.2-2 meters
height 20-30 cm
any length.

The California worm easily gets used to different food, so when using different composts, we recommend doing a test colonization. A little prepared substrate is placed in the box and 50-100 adult worms are populated. If after 24 hours they are all alive, then the compost is suitable for further colonization. If 5-10 worms die, then the cause may be increased acidity or alkalinity. If the acidity is high, add a little limestone or regular chalk; if the alkalinity is high, add straw or sawdust to the compost; you can also add plant tops.

Favorable conditions for breeding the California worm:

acidity 6.5-7.5 PH
temperature 15-220C
Compost moisture content is 70-80%.

Breeding California worms at home begins in the warm season, the worms are populated in the compost by 1-3 families per 1 m2, and after a couple of months they begin to select worms that have already reproduced. The worm is selected in this way: the worm is not fed for 2-3 days so that they get a little hungry, and then 7-10 cm of fresh compost is placed on the top of the pile or box, and after a day this layer is removed. The majority of worms, up to 60-80%, enter fresh compost. Only juveniles and worm cocoons remain in the lower substrate. We repeat the procedure for sampling worms several times. It is not possible to select all the worms in this way; 3-4% remains in the processed compost, which is already a fertilizer - vermicompost. The worms selected in this way are placed in new piles, boxes, or used for sale.

With the onset of winter and temperatures below -50C, the piles must be well insulated. To do this, fresh compost or fermented manure 25-40 cm thick is placed on the piles, watered with water and covered with hay or straw 40-50 cm high. The top layer of 5-10 cm may freeze in winter, but it will not pose a mortal danger to worms, since it is a heat insulator. In the spring, the worms will feed on the top layer of compost; 2/3 of your pile will already be vermicompost.

Breeding worms as a business is an excellent option for generating income without serious financial costs. Starting capital is minimal, equipment is simple. The technology for growing worms at home does not require special knowledge and skills.

For those who have decided to start a business, selling worms is an excellent option for making a profit with a small start-up capital. High profitability and stable demand will ensure the prosperity of your worm farm. Learn the features of this process, invest some money and get a stable income.

Is there a demand for who the worm buyers are?

Before opening a vermifarm (as a place for breeding worms is called), research who will need your products. "Creeping Workers" provide several valuable products that can be sold:

actual live worms;
vermicompost (fertilizer);
worm tea (vermichay).

To fertilize the soil

A valuable organic fertilizer - vermicompost - is in demand by both summer residents and large farms. Vermicompost increases soil fertility and enriches it with useful substances.

Start with small volumes. Use the humus yourself and sell it to your neighbors in the country. Expanding production will allow us to reach more established customers.

For fishing

It’s rare these days to meet a fisherman who spends time searching for worms for an upcoming fishing trip by digging up the soil. Most people prefer to come and buy bait in fishing stores. The life expectancy of worms is long, and the demand is stable. One individual can be sold for 2 rubles. How many worms do you need for fishing? Minimum 30 pieces. You will sell several packages in a day. The conclusion is obvious.

To the pet store

Birds, fish and other inhabitants of the pet store constantly need live food. The worms will be taken from you with great pleasure.

For fish farms

Owners of fish farms need a large amount of live food. The high nutritional value of worms explains the need for worm farm products.

For feeding plants

Worm tea– a unique product that allows you to increase the yield of fruit and vegetable crops by more than 2 times. Those who will also become your clients. The waste product of the worms is collected in a container. Natural fertilizer can be used for indoor plants and for open and closed ground (in greenhouses).

The production of vermicompost and its demand is described in this video:

Technology Basics

The scheme is as follows:

Preparing the habitat of your “pets”.
Purchase of breeding stock, consisting of adults, fry and cocoons of worms.
Moving the family into the prepared “house”.
Processing of compost by worms and turning the latter into vermicompost after a certain period of time.
Reproduction of worms.
Collection of fertile layer, worm tea, live specimens for sale.
Adding a new layer of nutrient bedding to serve as food for the worms.
The process begins again.

Nuances and secrets in the process of breeding worms

Take into account the life functions of worms. Your task is to create comfortable conditions for their life and reproduction. A quiet, calm place without vibrations and noise will help achieve good results.

The soil

It is not enough to simply pour soil into a box, populate the worms and wait for them to multiply quickly. The soil in which they live can be divided into three zones:

Upper layer- food place. You will need soil enriched with nutrients and organic residues;
Middle layer– the space where the bulk of individuals live;
bottom layer- the most valuable. Products of soil processing and derivatives of vital activity accumulate here: vermicompost and worm tea.

Temperature

Observe the temperature in the room. The optimal air temperature is from +15C...+25C. There is a type of worm that reproduces well at temperatures of +8C...+30C.

Room area

Please note: worms reproduce quickly. Consider whether you can increase the area of your vermifarm. Prepare a sufficient number of new “homes” for transplanting individuals.

Sale

Year-round farming of worms will require good distribution channels. Study the market and potential buyers in your area, city, village. Focus on the indicators: a stable family, having overwintered in good conditions, will increase almost 10 times!

Basic conditions for engaging in worm breeding - what is needed for this business

Study each item carefully. Creating a home vermifarm is quite simple. Advice from specialists and experienced farmers will help you.

Even some retirees are planning to open a business breeding Californian worms; the main thing is to study the technology and apply it in practice, as described in this video:

What room can be used, requirements for it

Any heated room with normal humidity is suitable:

garage;
cellar;
attic;
utility extension.

The air temperature should not fall below +4C. The worms will go into hibernation. At temperatures above +36C, individuals will die.

What types of worms are best to use and why

Various types of worms are suitable for a home worm farm. Pay attention to popular varieties.

Common earthworm

Local worms, well adapted to their habitat, are used because of their rapid adaptation to the conditions of a closed farm in their native soil. Reproduction will begin faster. Disadvantage – vital activity is lower than that of stronger “thoroughbred” species.

California red worm (CRW)

Popular view. When purchasing, make sure that the individuals are mobile and red in color. The breeding stock should be 1500 individuals or more. For 1 cubic meter of soil you will need from 1 to 3 families.

It multiplies quickly and produces high-quality vermicompost. Not picky about food. Does not tolerate temperatures below +10C.

Worm Prospector

Direct competitor to its famous Californian brother. High activity, the ability to efficiently process food, and rapid growth of biomass are characteristics of the Prospector species.

Tolerates temperatures from +9C to +28C well. From 1000 kg of substrate, the yield of vermicompost reaches 60%.

Give preference to industrial types of worms: KPC or Prospector. Productivity is higher than that of a regular earthworm.

What equipment will you need?

To organize a small home vermifarm you will need a minimum amount of equipment and inventory:

scales;
sifting sieve;
wheelbarrow;
bucket;
shovel;
pitchfork;
instruments that measure soil acidity and temperature;
room thermometer;
racks.

Place the main emphasis on the correct arrangement of piles, pits or boxes for growing worms and preparing compost.

Which container and in what cases is it better to use

Where to place newly acquired individuals and where to plant new families? At home, several types of nurseries are used:

Wooden box

Size: 1m x 2m x 0.5m. Boards – from 25 mm thick. Holes in the bottom will ensure the outflow of valuable liquid. To collect it, the box is installed with a slight slope. At the bottom you need a tray for collecting vermicelli. The cover is made of plywood and knocked down boards with holes for ventilation.

Old refrigerator

All “internals” are removed and the camera is installed with the door facing up. Ventilation holes are needed in the door and walls. Be sure to install the “house” at an angle on the bars.

Cardboard box

An excellent option to get started. Dimensions of the cardboard nursery box: 400 mm x 300 mm. Eco-friendly material “breathes” well. Worms feed on pieces of cardboard. The box has become damp and thinner - bring a new one.

Plastic container

There are many varieties: from a large flower pot to a high-quality large plastic container. A prerequisite: access to air, otherwise the worms will suffocate in too wet soil. Drill holes in the walls and lid. Place a basin or tray to collect the vermicelli.

Special vermicomposter

The most convenient and expensive option for equipment for breeding worms. Most small entrepreneurs use simpler homemade options.

How does a vermicomposter work?

Which soil is better to use and why

The activity of individuals, their reproduction and the rate of processing of organic waste depend on the quality of the soil.

Follow the rules:

Cover half the container with a layer of humus. You can add some shredded cardboard;
moisten the mixture. Humidity should not exceed 70-80%;
after 2-3 days, make several depressions in the soil, populate the worms with part of the soil in which they lived before transplanting into the box;
Gently level and moisten the soil. Cover the “house” with cardboard;
wait a couple of days;
After successful acclimatization, food can be added.

Always do a test placement in a small container. Place 50 to 100 individuals in the substrate. Check after a day to see if they are alive. This way you will find out whether the acidity of the soil suits your pets.

Optimal indicator:

from 6.5 to 7.5 pH.

Several dead worms are a signal for a change in acidity.

The following will help improve your performance:

sawdust or straw;
plant tops.

To reduce acidity, the following are suitable:

regular chalk;
ground shells;
limestone.

What and how to feed worms

All types of worms have no special food requirements. The value of worms is that they speed up the processing of waste that rots on your site in a compost heap for 1.5 - 2 years several times. Vermicompost for sale and grown worms can be collected every 4-6 weeks.

Basic feeding rules

Worms feed on plant debris that begins to rot and die.

Prohibited:

meat waste;
citrus. Increase acidity;
undiluted kefir. Increases the acidity level of the soil, which leads to the appearance of mold;
whole peels of vegetables or fruits, cores (freeze or pass the peelings through a meat grinder to destroy the cell walls);
fresh manure. The rotting substance releases a large amount of heat. The temperature will rise to 70C, the worms will die.

plant remains: cabbage leaves, potato peelings, banana peels, boiled vegetables;
food waste;
stale bread, pastries;
tea leaves and coffee grounds;
eggshell powder;
the water you used to rinse the sour cream or kefir jar;
grass, leaves, straw;
fermented manure (cow, horse), chicken droppings. Important: Very old manure contains few nutrients.

A new portion of food is added after everything has been eaten. Excess food waste leads to increased acidity and fermentation in the soil.

What packaging options can be used to transfer worms to customers?

Products are packaged in:

dense plastic bags measuring 150mm x 100mm with holes for worms to breathe. Store at a temperature approaching the lower mark. This will make the worms less mobile. A sufficient layer of soil is required. Convenient for fishing shops or individual fishermen;
cardboard boxes. The weight of the box is within 8 kg. A sufficient layer of substrate is required. The mother colonies tolerate transportation well. The transfer method is suitable for large quantities of goods.

Please note: You must send the buyer a brood colony consisting of cocoons, fry and adults.

Worm implementation options

Use all channels to attract potential buyers. People should learn as much as possible about your products.

How to sell:

Direct sales method. Go with the goods and offer them to “everything for fishing” stores, pet stores, familiar fishermen, neighbors in the country, farmers. Vermichai is readily accepted by amateur flower growers and avid summer residents.
Advertising on the Internet: on free message boards such as Avito, on social networks, on a farming or fishing website. Perhaps you have your own website? Use this platform too.

Estimated business profitability

Breeding worms as a business is a profitable investment. From 2 cubic meters of nursery in a year of successful operation you can get up to 15-20 thousand individuals for sale and about a ton of vermicompost. Just 2 rubles for 1 unit - and you already have 40 thousand rubles. Add the cost of vermicompost and vermicelli.

Taking into account the small initial investment, the break-even point will be passed quickly -

For those who decide to start raising worms for sale, it would be advisable to start with a small home farm in an old refrigerator or wooden box.

Having fully mastered the technology, studied the nuances of the business in practice, and “recruited” clients, you will be able to expand and organize a worm farm on an industrial scale. More substantial investments will be required. At this stage, you can prepare a business plan for breeding worms in order to optimize processes and attract additional funds for development.

A home mini-farm will allow you to accumulate capital sufficient to open a serious production.

Now you know that worm farming as a business is profitable for you and good for the environment. Study the technology, establish sales channels - and your business will prosper.

Discussion (20)

Hello, I’m going to start this business with minimal costs (One royal seed) and further development. I have been studying this issue for quite a long time, and your article is very good, but I can’t find information anywhere about how long manure (cattle) should sit before the urea comes out and how to speed up this process. I would be very grateful if you help or suggest the necessary literature on which I can prepare in more detail and correctly!!!

I didn't know that worms can hibernate in sub-zero temperatures. In our city, many people sell worms right along the highway when we go to visit another city. And not only in summer. Apparently, this is very profitable, and the hassle is minimal, especially in the summer. My husband buys it from me sometimes, mostly in the fall and winter. And in the summer he digs himself.

It's a good deed. First of all, restoration of ecology, restoration of the humus layer of the soil. Mother Earth will be healthy and grace to humanity. In a good situation and proper balance of forces, the sweat of labor will flow like golden rain.

Provided you have a personal subsidiary plot, it is enough to invest no more than 50 thousand rubles in a home business for breeding worms. The main costs will be spent on the purchase of breeding stock and the manufacture of boxes with substance for the winter maintenance of worms. Also, depending on the scale of production, it is necessary to have an appropriate feed supply. Otherwise, the business will not be profitable.

I'm on retirement. Tired of traveling on shifts! Maybe we should also start breeding worms? My son came up with an idea today. I don’t know what to do! Maybe try?

I breed worms in the basement of my house. I started with a small volume. First, a tray near a paid lake - not far from my village. Now there is already a circle of its customers. It's not a bad supplement to your pension. Many fishermen come to the house for bait. Especially in winter and early spring, demand is good.

By the way, I’ve also been doing this business for 5 years now, breeding worms for fishing, on my summer cottage. The business is great, no investment, it just naturally takes time. I also keep a tent at the market to sell worms, they sell very well! We already have our own clientele.

Yes, business is specific. It would be good if there is a steady demand for such products, and you should at least live in a private house. This is definitely not for everyone, although there will certainly be a demand for such exotica.

I couldn’t ignore this topic, because I remember a real example from the late 90s, when a friend of ours was able to get promoted in this business and rise from scratch. Now he is already a seasoned businessman. And then he was an ordinary labor teacher at a vocational school, then state employees were not paid salaries for several months, and even then, even if they waited for payment, it was only pennies. Which you can’t feed your family with. And he decided to start growing worms, right here in our vocational school, in the back room. The director was aware, but turned a blind eye to it, then everyone survived as best they could.
I remember how we all walked and looked at these worms, if I’m not mistaken, they were red Californian ones (I remember for sure that they were not the usual earthworms). The men made fun of our businessman, the women fumed and turned up their noses. But nevertheless, they borrowed everything from him from paycheck to paycheck, since the profit from this business was obvious, they sold it to pet stores, gardeners, fishermen, they didn’t break the price, and they took it from him willingly.
And he fussed with them like little children. And he constantly monitored the temperature, placed boxes with material at different levels, and observed ventilation regimes. There was once a tragedy that derailed his business - they told him that he needed to add eggshells to the ground for nutrition. Only they didn’t specify that it should be finely ground, just into flour. But he threw it into the ground, just mashed, the worms simply cut themselves when they moved in the soil. Now there is a lot of information on the Internet, and such mistakes can be avoided, but then our businessman collected information bit by bit from the same amateur businessmen in magazines and by calling them around the country.
What I’m getting at is that this business is really profitable, the sales market is huge and wide, if only there was a desire. But you shouldn’t classify it as one of the easiest and quickest to pay off; there are risks, as in any business.
But it’s obvious that it doesn’t require huge starting capital and is strong enough even for a pensioner.

The idea of making money by breeding worms would never even have crossed my mind. I read the entire article, everything turned out to be more than real. But I don’t think that there will be a permanent, stable income from this activity, so you can do this as a hobby, in your free time from work, or for retirees in order to earn extra money and not sit idle. By the way, I think it’s better to breed worms in the city, because to sell “finished” products it’s better to have regular customers who are unlikely to go to your village for a jar of worms. But still, there may well be income from this, and if you wish, you can carefully study all the points and nuances and try to make money on it

A very interesting type of business.
Low-cost, simple and cost-effective.
I think the pitfall of this business will be the sale of products in Russia.
I understand from the article that everything is happening in Latvia.
But what about our 35 degree frosts (I live in the northwest)?
Thank you very much for the valuable information.

It seemed to me that there was nothing left to do in our small town, all the ideas had already been sorted out, but what unexpected ways there are, and yet such a simple solution had to be thought of! We need to think carefully about this, of course, some pitfalls will emerge, but I think everything is quite solvable. The main thing is that no one here is doing this kind of work yet, so we need to hurry up. As they say, everything ingenious is simple!

Vermicompost is a granular bioactive fertilizer obtained from organic waste processed by the red Californian worm. Its use ensures good development of plants, increasing yields by 30-70%. Set fruits are less affected by diseases. They are distinguished by more delicate pulp, pronounced taste and aroma. Producing vermicompost at home is not particularly difficult and does not require significant expenses.

Properties and composition of vermicompost, its advantages

Biological humus is a fertilizer that is superior in composition and nutritional value to ordinary compost and manure. Its addition to the soil in a ratio of 10-20% of the total volume makes it possible to improve the health of depleted soil or soil containing a large amount of salts. During the processing process, the organic masses are completely disinfected and cleaned of helminth eggs. Vermicompost contains many useful components in an optimally balanced form:

Mineral elements in a form that is easily absorbed by plants.
Enzymes. They ensure the conversion of organic residues into nutritional compounds.
Substances that prevent the proliferation of pathogens.
Phytohormones. They improve plant growth and stress resistance.

This type of environmentally friendly fertilizer contains 4-8 times more humus than cow manure or compost obtained from plant residues. Its advantages include good moisture capacity, friability, compatibility with other types of organic fertilizers, and the absence of the need to use significant energy costs during production and use. The ability to sell surplus products allows you to recoup costs and receive a certain income.

Components for the production of vermicompost

Before you start producing vermicompost at home, you should prepare a substrate for vermicompost and the necessary equipment. The substrate includes:

Rotted cow dung and
Plant tops in fermented (silage) or dried form (hay).
Vegetable peelings, leftover unused food.
Rotten sawdust, tree leaves.
Peat and lime (2% of the total weight of the mixture) to improve the quality of vermicompost.

Californian worms are also needed for vermicompost, whose function is to process the nutrient mixture. The equipment you will need are boxes made of wooden planks or plastic, a spatula for collecting the substrate, and a sieve with cells with a diameter of 2 mm.

Features of growing Californian worms

Californian worms are practically no different in appearance from ordinary earthworms. But they process organic substances into a form convenient for absorption by plants much faster. When using them, you can get ready-made fertilizer in 1-1.5 weeks. The cost of one individual varies in different regions of the country: from 25 kopecks to 1 ruble. The following rules should be followed when using vermicompost:

Breeding at home requires maintaining certain temperature values. Its lower limit should not be below +4°C, and its upper limit should not be above 40°C. Lower and higher values can lead to the death of biological material.
In winter, the worms are placed in containers with a nutrient substrate and brought into a room with the required air temperature or covered with insulating material. It ensures free flow of air into the soil mixture.
For the normal functioning of this type of invertebrate, it is necessary to maintain the humidity of the compost heap at 70-80% by regular irrigation with water in hot weather. In addition, they should be protected from direct sunlight by placing them in the shade.

To prevent the death of California worms in severe frosts, covering the place where they are kept with the arrival of autumn with a layer of compost 40 cm thick or more. After snow falls, additional protection will be provided by insulating the embankment with a thick snow cover.

Preparation of nutrient substrate

Producing vermicompost at home requires special preparation of the substrate before introducing worms into it. First, a wooden box, plastic container or hole in the ground is prepared. It is recommended that their depth be from 70 to 100 cm. You can prevent the penetration of technological worms beyond the pit by finishing its bottom and walls with some natural material.

Then a mixture prepared from well-rotted manure, mature compost, rotted plant tops, and food waste is placed in a container or pit. The substrate must mature. To do this, keep it for the required time, regularly moistening it with warm water and stirring every 2-3 days. Initially, under the influence of processes occurring in the mixture, the temperature will rise to 40-50 °C. Upon completion of fermentation of the components, its values decrease and remain stable.

Vermiculture technology

When the substrate is completely ripe, Californian ones are added to it at home, allowing you to obtain them in sufficient quantities for the required volume of the mixture. The laying rate is 700-1500 pieces per cubic meter of substrate. You can determine the suitability of the mixture for launching worms by first placing 50 individuals in it. If they feel good, add the rest, evenly distributing them over the surface of the substrate.

The acidity of the prepared mixture should be within 6-8 points. Periodic gentle loosening will provide free access to the internal layers of air necessary for the worms to breathe. Regular irrigation with settled water heated to 20 °C will create a sufficiently humid environment. To maintain optimal temperature and humidity values of the substrate, the container is covered with a layer of straw.

Collection of vermicompost

During the first 1-2 months, the worms adapt to the new environment. Then they begin to actively multiply and process the components of the mixture into vermicompost. Every 10 days it is necessary to additionally add a nutrient substrate as a top dressing. After 3-4 months, you need to check the number of worms. If it has increased significantly, you can begin to separate them and use the finished fertilizer for its intended purpose.

There are 2 ways to free vermicompost from the worms in it. One of them involves sifting the substrate through a sieve. The worms are then transferred to another container. In the second method, the application of fertilizing is delayed for several days. Then pour a new portion of the substrate onto the surface of the box. When the hungry worms rise up, they are separated and moved to another place.

Application of vermicompost

Producing vermicompost at home has certain benefits. It can be used not only to fertilize a garden or summer cottage, but also sold. The cost of obtaining this environmentally friendly and highly effective material will be reduced by the presence of domestic animals, which provide the technological process with a sufficient amount of manure.

Excess vermicompost can be sold to neighbors in the country and farmers. With a significant volume of production - on the market or in wholesale quantities in your own online store. Worms can be in demand by fish and poultry farms. In order to sell vermicompost, the price of 1 kg of which ranges from 10 to 20 rubles, it should be offered to potential buyers in easy-to-use packaging.

Product packaging

When dry, vermicompost is packaged in polyethylene bags. When producing liquid humus in concentrated form, the best option is to bottle it in plastic bottles. Like the widely used “Em” preparations, they contain many beneficial soil microorganisms that improve soil fertility and ensure high yields using the most environmentally friendly methods.

When packing in bags, you should first weigh the vermicompost. The price per 1 kg may be indicated on the label or not in case of wholesale sales of the material. The cost of goods in different regions varies significantly. Just like liquid preparations "Em", it is desirable that the packaged vermicompost contains instructions outlining the properties of the material and the rules for its use.

Instructions for use

Vermicompost is in demand not only for growing fruits and vegetables. It is widely used in floriculture to restore depleted soil that has lost its natural properties. It can also be used to reduce the number of harmful insects, since the microorganisms included in the drug are capable of breaking down the chitin of their exoskeleton.

In what quantities and how best to use vermicompost - the instructions cover in detail all the issues that arise when using fertilizer. The time for its application to the soil is not limited. The drug has a prolonged action, giving good results for several years. Concentrated vermicompost is diluted three times. It is recommended to add it to water when watering plants and spraying trees.

Features of application

The drug is used for preparing soil mixtures. Vermicompost is especially useful for seedlings. It is enough to add 1 part of the product to 3-5 parts of peat. Before planting grown plants in the ground, approximately 150 g of fertilizer should be added to the holes, mixed with soil. The planted bushes are watered abundantly, and the surface of the soil around the seedling is mulched with a small layer of vermicompost.

You can protect plants from damage by insect pests by adding the product to the soil or by surface treating their vegetative parts with an aqueous solution. Regular fertilizing of vegetables, trees, shrubs and flowers has a good effect. For these purposes, it is enough to apply 0.5 kg of vermicompost per 1 m2 to the plants every 30 days.

Using vermicompost to restore soil

Vermicompost quickly increases the nutritional value of the soil, supplementing it with a complex of substances necessary for the good development of plants. The soil microorganisms it contains help convert plant and animal residues into easily digestible compounds.

Adding vermicompost to soil that has lost fertility due to excessive application of chemicals increases the content of useful elements in it, improves the soil structure, and neutralizes high acidity. This allows you to create an environment in which those involved in the formation of the fertile soil layer can live. Increasing the concentration of humus most directly affects the quantity and quality of the resulting crop.

vermicompost, or vermicompost.

California red worm" (KKCH).

Benefits of vermicompost

Food for earthworms

- bread crusts;

Earthworm Care

Typically, worm food is added every 1.5-2 weeks. The frequency of feeding depends on the number of worms in the box (in the bed) and on the temperature of their content. As the temperature approaches the optimal (24 degrees), the activity of the worms and the amount of food they consume increase.

Earthworms need oxygen, so after the substrate layer reaches a thickness of 20 cm or more, it is regularly loosened (pierced).

To pierce the bed, use special vermicompost forks with round ends or rounded pins.

Everything starts again.

Wintering earthworms

Application of vermicompost

www.vermilend.narod.ru

All about plant fertilization on the website Gardenia.ru

All about substrates on the website Gardenia.ru

Subscribe and receive!

(unsubscribe with one click)

Worms for breeding

(Temporarily out of stock)

Californian ones on sale worms for breeding in a large plastic box (container) with a supply of food (substrate). We send orders to all regions of the Russian Federation and CIS countries, as well as abroad. For small production volumes, we recommend using a container breeding method. During the winter season, delivery through the transport company is carried out in a warm mode - the worms will remain safe.

California worms for breeding from the manufacturer

Order and we will save the price! Pick up when it's convenient for you!

3450 2950 rubles when ordering 1 container with a population of Californian worms;

3350 2850 rubles from 2 to 4 pieces;

3250 2750 rubles from 5 to 9 pieces,

3150 2650 rubles from 10 pcs.

Plastic empty perforated boxes - 350 RUR/piece. (size 60x40x20cm, volume 40 liters, see photo below).

There are worms of various ages in the box

adult worms 10% (from 5 to 12 cm, approximately 1000 pcs.);
fry of worms 40-60% (juvenile specimens ranging in size from 1 to 3 cm, 2-5 thousand pieces, are not counted separately, since they are very small in size). Watch the video about them at the bottom of the page;
worm cocoons 20-30% (2-5 mm in diameter, one cocoon is taken as 5-7 worms, 100-300 pieces, not counted separately).

You get worms of all ages and sizes in a plastic container in which the worms will reproduce and produce even more offspring, producing vermicompost. If you want to grow worms in containers, you will need to purchase (for each container of worms you purchase) an additional 2 empty containers. You can also purchase a population of worms in any container convenient for you by prior agreement. Worms tolerate transportation without problems and can live in a container with a supply of substrate without additional feeding for about a month. When vermicultivating, an increase in the number of worms depends on compliance with the breeding technology: maintaining a constant temperature, humidity, timely fertilizing, air extraction, division, loosening, substrate acidity, ventilation and other factors. You can familiarize yourself with various breeding technologies on our website.

The population includes adult worms, California red worm fry and cocoons. From one cocoon comes out 5 to 7 tiny worms (juveniles). In the first week after emerging from the cocoon, the worms are very small and thin. Over time, they gain weight and change color. Worms for breeding located in a breathable spunbond bag in a container. For safe transportation, the container is placed in a large breathable polypropylene bag and, if necessary, insulated during the cold season. The bottom is lined with thick layers of paper or cardboard. We carry out all order packaging activities free of charge. The substrate (food for worms) lasts at least 4 weeks. You can buy worms for breeding by pick-up from a farm in the Moscow region or Moscow, we also organize delivery to all regions of Russia through a transport company. The total weight of one container is from 12 to 15 kg, depending on the humidity and density of the substrate. As a rule, the average weight is 14 kg, but when received in another city it may be 1 kg less due to the evaporation of some of the moisture during long-term transportation. All orders are collected before shipping and reach the customer without any damage.

Number of worms in container and transportation

If we calculate the average volume and weight of the substrate per adult individual, we obtain the following data. The volume of the entire substrate, taking into account the geometry of the container, is approximately 58x40x15 cm = 34800 cm3 and weight 15000 g. At the same time, the food does not occupy the entire height of the container of 20 cm, since there should be a small margin on top for better ventilation and to prevent excessive compaction by third-party loads. Accordingly, all adult individuals have a volume of 34800 cm3. If there are 1000 of them, we get an average volume of 34.8 cm3 and a weight of 15 grams per worm.

California worms breeding at home

The fry processes a minimal amount of feed, especially during transportation - they can be neglected in calculations. This volume is enough for one month, and during transportation the worms do not process it very quickly due to third-party vibrations, noise and small temperature changes.

Who benefits from purchasing the California worm population?

Beginning farmers who are just planning to engage in vermicultivation and want to try this type of activity;
To increase the California worm population by adding adult worms, fry or cocoons to beds, piles, etc. on an existing farm;
For fishermen in regions where worms for fishing are not available in the ground for various reasons or their cost in fishing stores is very high;
Fishing stores that have the opportunity to grow worms for fishing for subsequent sale, since this is much more profitable than buying packaged worms;
For vermicultivation at home, for the production of vermicompost in small volumes and growing worms for fishing at any time of the year. The fertilizer is perfect for various house plants and garden plots;
For feeding pets: lizards, snakes, rats, fish, spiders, mice, newts, etc.

Plastic perforated container for breeding worms

For the container method (see photo below) of growing worms and producing vermicompost, plastic containers with perforated sides and bottom, measuring 60x40x20 cm, are used. The entire composition of the breeding stock is contained in a bag made of dense spunbond. The bag itself is included in the price. To breed worms using the container method (information about this method is in the corresponding section of the site), you will need an additional two empty containers per population. The formation of a completely filled rack of three tiers takes approximately 2-3 months, while the number of adult worms, fry and cocoons approximately doubles.

Packing worms

Worms for breeding with a supply of substrate, neatly placed in a spunbond bag.

Before sewing up the bag, place some rotted leaves or grass that has been previously moistened. Then the top of the bag is stitched.

Sheets of thick cardboard paper are placed at the bottom of the container to maintain moisture.

The sewn bag of worms is placed in a container.

The container is packed in a bag made of breathable polypropylene fabric for shipping to another region.

If the order contains additional empty containers, they are nested inside each other. A container with worms is placed on top, then everything is secured on the sides with adhesive tape.

We send orders to clients in other cities with additional containers through a transport company, one of the terminals which is located in Moscow. You can see what an order ready to ship looks like in the following photo.

Instructions after purchasing breeding stock

After receiving a container with worms for breeding, do not rush to immediately cut the spunbond bag, much less mix the entire composition of the substrate (compost). If you received your order through a shipping company, then the green (or white) woven polypropylene bag containing the container must be removed. It is used only for order transportation, since it is tensile, resistant to punctures, cuts, abrasion and inert to various chemicals. After receiving, wait until the worms process most of the substrate and get used to other conditions, including temperature. To do this, after receiving your order, we recommend waiting 15-20 days from the date your order is sent.

Cut the spunbond along the perimeter (the remains on the sides and bottom do not need to be removed), or you can unravel the central seam. After this, start feeding the worms. Before this, without cutting the spunbond, we recommend making several indentations on top with your fingers and adding 150-250 grams of water at room temperature into them once every 5 days. Thus, water will slowly penetrate through the spunbond and moisturize the substrate. You should not use warm tap water, as it contains many chemical elements harmful to worms. It is better to use spring or rain water, and not necessarily completely clean and transparent. If this is not possible, pour cold tap water into a glass and let it sit for at least 12 hours. If, when moistening, a puddle forms at the bottom of the container, then there is no need to add water anymore and the substrate has sufficient moisture. For more detailed information on breeding worms, see the relevant sections of our website (menu on the left).

Earthworms in the soil are a factor in its fertility and a condition for the normal development of plants.
The main enemy of earthworms is humans. Many people do not know the priceless virtues of these workers of the earth, and sometimes consider earthworms to be harmful creatures. This misconception arose from ignorance. Therefore, it is necessary to explain that there is no other animal as useful - a friend of the earth and the basis of our well-being - as the earthworm.

A huge amount of food waste is disposed of in city landfills every year.
Being a lover of indoor plants, one day I decided to try to get vermicompost in my apartment using the vermicultivation method.
I read the necessary information about it and got down to business. Over the winter, without any complications, our family of three, with the help of earthworms, received about 150 kg of excellent fertilizer from food waste.
This vermicompost is sufficient not only for indoor floriculture, but also for gardening and gardening (for planting 2-3 thousand potato bushes or 1 thousand tomato bushes).

A successfully conducted home experiment on the production of vermicompost and the fact that I am an apologist for the principles of organic farming contributed to my serious mastery of vermicultivation.

Use of earthworms

Vermiculture is the process of recycling organic waste using earthworms.
The resulting product is called - vermicompost, or vermicompost.

Breeding of the dung worm (genus Eisenia-foetida) in the United States produced a line known as the "California red hybrid" or " California red worm" (KKCH).
KKCH ensures rapid growth of biomass and rapid disposal of waste, and is long-lived (lives up to 16 years).

Basically, earthworms are bred to produce vermicompost.
In addition, worms can also be used live (as food for various domestic animals, fish, amphibians and reptiles, as well as some species of birds and rodents).

Benefits of vermicompost

More and more people are now striving to consume organic food. In different countries, vegetables grown with vermicompost are much more expensive than those grown with manure or mineral fertilizers.

On soil fertilized with vermicompost, you can not only grow environmentally friendly products, but also increase the productivity of the site by 2-3 times or more.
In terms of its ability to restore soil fertility, one ton of vermicompost replaces 15 tons of manure.

The most important advantage of vermicompost is that its application does not increase the contamination of the soil with weeds (when applying regular manure, the contamination increases by 30%).

Vermicompost is non-toxic, free from chemical additives and many pathogenic microorganisms. It improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, prevents the leaching of nutrients from it; reduces the effect of harmful salts and phytotoxic elements, radionuclides and heavy metals.

Vermicompost as one of the main components of soil for greenhouses increases the duration of use of the substrate to 3-5 years. At the same time, the quality of the product is significantly improved, and the amount of nitrates in it is sharply reduced.

There are fundamental differences in the effect that composts and vermicomposts have on plant growth. This is explained by the fact that processes of different nature occur in them, in which communities of microorganisms that are very different from each other participate.

Conditions for breeding earthworms

Raising earthworms is easy for anyone to learn.

It is necessary to exclude the possibility of moles, the worst enemies of earthworms, penetrating the worms. In the case of cultivating worms outdoors, use a protective net or concrete an area for keeping the worms at an angle (to reduce stagnation of water).

When producing vermicompost all year round, boxes with worms are placed in utility rooms - in garages, sheds, basements, attics, even in an apartment. The air temperature suitable for keeping earthworms is 15-25 degrees.

The worm cultivator should be covered with mulch (straw, hay, burlap) to protect it from drying out and light.
In the apartment, the box with worms is covered with a lid. The lid and bottom of the box must have holes.

The box of worms is placed on a tray where excess liquid drains. You can pour sand into a tray and then use it to mix it into your garden soil.

A neutral environment with an acidity of 7 pH is optimal for keeping worms. In an environment with an acidity of 6 pH or more than 8 pH, all worms die within a week.

The prepared moist substrate must stand for 5-7 days before being colonized by worms. During this period, the substrate must be periodically moistened to remove residual ammonia.

Food for earthworms

In one day, one worm is capable of processing a large amount of organic matter equal to its own weight (the average weight of an earthworm is 0.5 g).

Worms feed on almost any organic matter:
— cattle manure (fermentation 3-6 months);
— pig manure (fermentation for at least a year);
- rabbit or goat manure (can be given immediately);
— kitchen waste (potato peelings, etc.);
— used tea leaves (tea and coffee);
- bread crusts;
— soaked and shredded newspapers or cardboard, etc.

It is not recommended to use manure that has lain for more than two years after composting as food for earthworms. It already contains very little of the nutrients the worms need. Such manure can be used as an additive when composting organic waste.

You can speed up the fermentation of fresh manure with the help of EM preparations (EMs are effective microorganisms). In this case, the manure will be ready for use by worms within 0.5-1 month.

Earthworms are vegetarians; there is no need to use animal waste to feed them.(meat, egg white and yolk, etc.).

All food given to earthworms must be minced or crushed in some other way., since worms cannot process solid food.

Constant feed composition should be maintained, as nascent worms become attuned to the food they first tasted. When the composition of food changes, some time must pass for earthworms to adapt to it.

Earthworm Care

Caring for worms comes down to feeding, maintaining a favorable temperature, watering and loosening the compost beds (box substrate).

Place the earthworms on the moist compost (substrate) that is ready to move in and distribute them evenly.

Breeding California worms at home

Within a week after moving in, check whether the worms willingly move to the new substrate. If the surface of the worms is clean, and they themselves are mobile, this is evidence of their well-being.
When the worms are lethargic, inactive, and do not try to hide from the light, these are signs of their severe damage by various pesticides from the new food for them. You may then have to prepare new compost for the worms from a different source of organic matter. But such a need arises extremely rarely.

Worms need moisture, do not forget to water the substrate regularly.

The optimal substrate humidity is 80%. Earthworms are very sensitive to fluctuations in compost moisture content, especially to its decrease.
Watering the substrate is done using a watering can with small holes.
Do not water the compost with water directly from the tap. Use pre-settled (3-5 days) water with a temperature of 20-24 degrees.

The first feeding of the worms is carried out a few days after settling in the compost. The feeding operation is as follows. Fresh food 3-5 cm thick is layered onto a quarter of the surface of the bed or box and distributed evenly.

As the worms eat food, a 5-7 cm layer of food is again applied to the substrate. At this stage, food is applied to the entire surface.
And so they periodically continue to feed the earthworms until the box is completely filled, or until the height of the ridge reaches 50-60 cm.

Typically, worm food is added every 1.5-2 weeks.

The frequency of feeding depends on the number of worms in the box (in the bed) and on the temperature of their content. As the temperature approaches the optimal (24 degrees), the activity of the worms and the amount of food they consume increase.

Earthworms need oxygen, so after the substrate layer reaches a thickness of 20 cm or more, it is regularly loosened (pierced). To pierce the bed, use special vermicompost forks with round ends or rounded pins.
Loosening of the compost (without mixing the layers) is carried out 2 times a week; it is pierced to the depth of the worms and cocoons.

When earthworms work steadily in the box (bed), the compost is separated into three zones.
The first upper zone - the surface horizon (5-7 cm) is a fresh substrate, which is food for worms. Its quantity is constantly changing, since the worms feed on it constantly, and new layers are periodically added.
The middle zone (10-30 cm) is working; the bulk of worms live in it.
The third lower zone is a vermicompost storage area; as the worms work, it constantly increases in height.

The process of obtaining vermicompost ends when the nutrient substrate is completely processed by worms. The duration of the process is usually 3-4 months from the start of the worms settling into the substrate.

When the container is filled with ready-made vermicompost, the worms with part of the old substrate are transplanted into another container.
Everything starts again.

Removing ready-made vermicompost from worms

The need for sampling worms arises when the nutrient substrate is completely processed. This is also required when the density of multiplied worms exceeds the optimal population density (from 30 to 50 thousand pieces per 1 sq.m.).

Worms can be transplanted from vermicompost to another container by hand, but this is not easy. In order to select worms from ready-made vermicompost without hassle, it is better to stop feeding them for a while (an extra few days) to let them get hungry.
Then, on 1/3 of the vermicompost area, a portion (5-7 cm layer) of new food is laid out, into which the hungry worms move themselves. Place straw cuttings (or torn paper) dipped in sugar solution on top. You can also use the pulp of vegetables and fruits or a layer of humus (5-10 cm) to attract worms.

After two or three days, the layer of food along with the worms that filled it is removed from the vermicompost.
This operation must be repeated three times over three weeks to collect all the worms (including the juveniles emerging from the cocoons).

To make it easier to free the finished vermicompost from worms, you can use specially designed boxes with a mesh bottom. When filling such a box with vermicompost, another box with food is placed on it - so that the bottom of the upper box rests on the substrate of the lower one. Worms from the bottom box crawl into the top box with fresh food.
Unfortunately, we do not sell special boxes for breeding earthworms with a mesh bottom, as well as double boxes with a mesh in the middle.

In the gardening version of a special double box with a mesh in the middle (see title photo), the separation of worms occurs on a horizontal principle. When one part of the box is filled with vermicompost, fresh food is placed in the second adjacent part. Then the worms themselves crawl there through the holes in the partition of the box, leaving clean vermicompost for further use.

Raw vermicompost freed from worms is a dark-colored spreading mass. It is collected with a scoop, dried to 40-50% humidity, sifted through a sieve and packaged for storage.
Dried vermicompost can be stored at ambient temperature (from -20 to +30 degrees). But freezing vermicompost is still not recommended to prevent the loss of its biological activity.

Wintering earthworms

The best place to keep vermiculture in winter is a heated room.
The thickness of the substrate depends on the frequency of feeding the worms.
Since the top layer of the substrate dries out quickly in a warm room, it must be moistened regularly.

When maintaining vermiculture outdoors in winter, the substrate should not be moistened. When the temperature reaches -5 degrees, a substrate 40-50 cm high is covered with a layer of fermented manure (20-30 cm), watered and covered with straw (hay) to a total height of 100-120 cm.
The top 5 cm thick layer can freeze, which does not pose a danger to the worms since it is a heat insulator. During their life, worms produce heat, the amount of which depends on the number of individuals.

In the spring, the awakened worms will feed on the manure or compost of the top layer.

Features of breeding earthworms in an apartment

When breeding earthworms in an apartment, an odor may arise from the waste on which the worms feed; Various insects may appear.
As a rule, the smell comes from freshly placed food (and if the food contains animal protein, the smell can be quite unpleasant).
In this case, the new food can be sprinkled with ready-made vermicompost on top. You can also use EM preparations to combat unpleasant odors. You can bring a certain amount of soil from the dacha and periodically sprinkle the substrate with it. You can cover the substrate with damp burlap.

Ready-made vermicompost does not have an unpleasant odor; it smells like ordinary earth. In addition, earthworms secrete substances that serve as a kind of deodorant.

Application of vermicompost

The main benefit of keeping earthworms is that your free waste can provide valuable fertilizer.
It is enough to purchase 1.5-3 thousand worms and place them in the compost in order to obtain an amount of vermicompost within a year sufficient to fertilize a plot of 3-4 acres.
A population of 1,500 earthworms, populated with 2-3 square meters of compost, can provide your garden plot with two tons of first-class fertilizer.

Vermicompost produced by earthworms can be used for growing all types of plants (indoor flowers, seedlings, vegetables in open and closed ground, for planting fruit crops, grapes, medicinal plants). The use of vermicompost is especially useful in greenhouses, where it is very important to eliminate the possibility of disease.

Thus, by producing vermicompost yourself, you rationally use waste and save money, receiving a high-quality product in which you are confident. After all, packages with purchased substrates often contain stones, sticks, bones and other debris.

If you use vermicompost to grow indoor plants, earthworms or their cocoons may accidentally get into the flower pot. Don't worry: earthworms cannot cause any harm to plants.

With the beginning of the use of vermicompost, in 2006, at our summer cottage, the first tomatoes in the open ground ripened in the third decade of July.
We practice the principles of organic farming. We grow plants in raised, fenced beds. We use a Fokin flat cutter.
We do not use pesticides or mineral fertilizers. We use only vermicompost for root feeding of plants. For foliar feeding we use BioVit, a complex preparation made from vermicompost.

Plant growth stimulator BioVit

BioVit is a powerful biologically active plant growth stimulator, which can increase the yield by another 30-40%.
With BioVit, minerals reach plants in a form prepared for them. The fact is that the plant is not adapted to consume mineral solutions directly. If mineral salts are added artificially, the plant will respond to this by increasing the water content of its tissues. That is, the fruit will weigh more, and there will be less nutrients in it. After all, if a person consumes a lot of salt, he will feel thirsty, and the same thing happens with the plant.

In nature, a plant consumes mineral salts through microorganisms that transport the mineral component to the roots, transforming it along the way. Or the plant consumes salts of fulvic and humic acids, the reactions of which with minerals actively occur in the soil if there is a sufficient amount of humus. BioVit contains directly salts of humic and fulvic acids, which represent a complete complex of NPK (the main nutrients necessary for the plant).
BioVit also contains microelements in a standardized form: copper, manganese, zinc, etc. Microelements in small quantities are vital for the plant, since they are actively involved in almost all its life processes. For example, manganese is directly involved in photosynthesis.

The use of vermicompost and BioVit allows you to organize complete root and foliar nutrition of plants. This has the best effect on the growth, flowering and productivity of plants, and allows you to obtain environmentally friendly and nutritious fruits.

Sergey Grigorievich Polovitsa, ( [email protected])
Director of Vermi-Land LLC (Kyiv, Ukraine)
www.vermilend.narod.ru

All about plant fertilization on the website Gardenia.ru

All about substrates on the website Gardenia.ru

Weekly Free Digest of the Gardenia.ru Site

Every week, for 10 years, for our 100,000 subscribers, an excellent selection of relevant materials about flowers and gardens, as well as other useful information.

Subscribe and receive!

(unsubscribe with one click)

home< Разведение Калифорнийских червей в домашних условиях.

Breeding California worms at home.

A high-quality California red worm broodstock (family) should number at least 1,500 individuals.

Basic rules for preparing substrate (compost) for further colonization of worms:

Do not use chlorinated water to moisten compost. Chlorine is poisonous to worms.
Growing earthworms in the garden and in the apartment

If the water is chlorinated, you need to let it stand for 2-3 days, the chlorine will go away, you can also use rain water
It is forbidden to use fresh manure, since in the process of burning out the manure, its temperature will rise to 70-800C and the worm will die
It is not recommended to use old manure that has lain for more than 3 years; it contains a small amount of useful substances for worms.

Organic waste is collected in heaps and moistened. In this way they rot for 1-3 months.

Dimensions of the compost pile:

pile width 1.2-2 meters
height 20-30 cm
any length.

Favorable conditions for breeding the California worm:

acidity 6.5-7.5 PH
temperature 15-220C
Compost moisture content is 70-80%.

home< Промышленное разведение калифорнийских червей

Industrial breeding of Californian worms

When designing a farm for the industrial breeding of Californian worms, it is necessary to clearly determine its direction - whether it will grow only the breeding stock of worms or, along with this, the industrial production of vermicompost and biomass will be organized. Based on this, the number of boxes is calculated and the size of the area on which they will be placed is determined. At the same time, knowing the number of beds and the approximate number of worms in them, they calculate the amount of food they need and its constant availability, as well as the availability of water supplies. Water is necessary to moisten the substrate - food and must meet certain chemical requirements.

Preparing the bed

Historically, in the industrial farming of earthworms, as a unit of measurement, bed means the area of a ridge (or trench, depending on the method) with a length of 2 m and a width of 1 m, i.e. area 2m2. This unit of measurement is used in all calculations concerning productivity, nutrition, reproduction, yield, etc. Typically, a bed can contain up to 100,000 worms of various sizes with cocoons. Such one bed annually produces about 600 kg of vermicompost if its production is carried out and not the reproduction of worms, and about 400-450 kg of vermicompost when breeding earthworms, i.e. at the stage when the entire space of the bed is saturated. The optimal vermifarm is considered to be one that consists of 1,200 beds occupying a usable area of at least 1 hectare of land.

When marking the territory (with an open breeding method), it is necessary to check whether there are traces of a mole on it, which greedily eats earthworms. Penetrating into a bed, one mole can destroy the entire population in a short time. If these animals are found, you cannot use moleicides or any chemicals to destroy them: a dead mole sent to the bed will kill with this poison all the earthworms that eat its rotten meat.

The way out is to install a metal mesh with small-diameter cells around the entire perimeter at a depth of 50-60 cm with access to the surface to a height of at least 30 cm.

However, there are cases when, in order to get to earthworms, moles made a passage at a depth of more than 60 cm and still ended up in the active zone of the bed. Farms use a metal mesh with 16×15 mm cells. The mesh is installed across the entire width of the bed, and its edges are bent so that two wings are formed at a height of 25 cm on all four sides of the bed.

Box orientation

The beds are positioned so that all excess water flows out of them. If there is standing water under the bed, the worms die. If there is a choice, then in areas of high windiness or in cases where the strongest winds blow in a certain constant prevailing direction, the beds are located in the downwind direction. Earthworms are very afraid of wind.

When planning and dividing the area for a farm, areas for heaping and fermentation of the substrate are determined. They must be located within the territory of the farm or near it. It is also advisable to provide ways for transporting the substrate to the beds, etc.

The area is marked with wooden pegs 50-60 cm long, which are driven into the ground every meter along the entire length of the future bed. This will subsequently allow you to accurately populate the bed with the required number of worms per square meter. To facilitate the work of performing the necessary analyzes of product quality, humus and the number of worms, it is recommended to first make longitudinal beds of the same length, a multiple of 2 m (2, 4, 6 m, etc.), which are called sectors.

The choice of bed width depends on a number of factors, in particular the availability of labor, mechanization equipment (rubber tractors, trailers with sides that open on three sides, etc.). Typically, beds are made 2 m wide, 50 m long, and leave passages between them of such a width to ensure maneuverability of the tractor and trailer.

Indoors

The above applies to the construction of outdoor areas. Here you can grow worms and get high productivity during the warm season. In winter conditions, worms significantly reduce their activity, and caring for them becomes more difficult. Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to switch to industrial production of worms and vermicompost in enclosed spaces with relatively high positive 24-hour temperatures.

In enclosed spaces (various agricultural buildings), worms can be cultivated on a concrete floor, with beds arranged, and on racks in wooden or metal boxes, arranged on floors. Conditions in enclosed spaces must meet the same requirements as conditions in open areas.

It should be noted that there are advantages to keeping worms indoors compared to keeping them outdoors. These benefits apply both to the service process and to the final result. It has been noted that in enclosed spaces, 1 m2 of area produces twice as much marketable biomass as in open ground. The yield of organic fertilizer - vermicompost - is also significantly higher.

For breeding queen worms, standard beds are used. In this case, the density can range from 1.5 to 12 thousand copies per 1 m2.

Substrate (food)

There is a term "feeding". Fertilizing is done with organic matter, the amount of which per year per bed is 1000 kg. Worms process 60% of this organic matter, and consume and assimilate the remaining 40% to maintain existence.

How to grow California worms at home?

To obtain vermicompost, an organic substrate (food for worms) is prepared in advance (2-8 months in advance). Under conditions of access to water and air oxygen, under the influence of microorganisms living in the organic substrate (fungi, actinomycetes, bacteria), organic residues decompose (mineralize) and humify (secondary synthesis). These processes can be compared with decomposition processes. Simple intermediate products are formed as a result of hydrolytic cleavage proteins, carbohydrates and lipids.

Humic acids help increase the permeability of plant cell walls and activate their enzymatic systems. During periods of plant stress (drought, excessive moisture, cold, etc.), the stimulating effect of physiologically active organic compounds of humic acids in vermicompost appears. The presence of a significant amount of calcium humates in vermicompost, which promotes the formation of a water-resistant granular structure, ensures aeration and moisture access.

Various organic wastes are used as food for worms. Therefore, they should be prepared for feeding taking into account the method of storage (fermentation) of the substrate with different agrochemical parameters. It is advisable to store the substrate in piles using a hot-cold method of storing it, which significantly reduces the germination of weed seeds, the number of which in 1 ton of cattle bedding ranges from 5 thousand to 7 million seeds; in 1 ton of liquid pig manure - from 200 to 700 thousand pieces; in 1 ton of semi-liquid chicken manure - from 20 to 80 thousand pieces.

Organic substrate formulation

The substrate has a double meaning for worms: firstly, it serves as a habitat for them; secondly, it is food, thanks to which a certain level of their vital activity is ensured. To obtain a high-quality substrate, there are a number of specific requirements. The humidity of the initial substrate is adjusted to 70-80%, it should not contain solid contaminants such as stones, metal, wood, glass, etc., the acidity should be neutral, iron oxides no more than 10%. The quality of the substrate improves if it is mixed well and waste from melons and fruits and vegetables is added in combination with 10% lime waste. The main condition is the presence of air in the substrate and its homogeneity, as well as the ratio between carbon and nitrogen. Mixing the substrate allows the mixture to be equalized in terms of humidity, creating conditions for the life of microorganisms and the occurrence of biometric processes.

Substrate fermentation

The prepared substrate goes through a fermentation stage, during which the eggs and larvae of helminths, as well as weed seeds, die. Fermentation can be carried out either in natural or accelerated mode. The full ripening period for food is 2-3 months in summer, 3-5 in winter, storage can last up to 8-10 months. When storing compost, the determining factor for its readiness is the carbon to nitrogen ratio, which should be about 20.

To speed up fermentation, organic waste is placed in piles, into which hot steam at a temperature of 50-60°C is then pumped through pipes. The substrate, deprived of the ability to self-heat, is spread in a layer up to 20-30 cm thick, 1-1.5 m wide, moistened to 70%-80% of full wettability and allowed to stand for 10-15 days. Before moistening, crushed lime, chalk, etc. are applied to the surface at a rate of 5-10 kg/t and worms are populated with 1.5 to 2.5 thousand individuals of royal brood per 1 m2, evenly distributing them over the surface. It is advisable to do this at sunset, because the worms tolerate solar radiation very poorly and die.

During the night, the worms gradually burrow deep into the substrate, but they will not feed on it, they will only master it for 6 days. The surface of the populated substrate is covered with cut straw or burlap. 3-5 days after settlement, the substrate is moistened, but not much - 50-60%. Subsequently, they are moistened at an optimal level of 75±10%. The temperature should be 22+5 °C.

Growing worms in winter

In winter, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature in different layers of the bed, but this should not significantly destroy the layers (each intervention causes undesirable consequences). The most suitable thermometer is one that can be immersed to 40-60 cm (soil thermometer). It allows you to count on a scale from above. In an enclosed space, you must first of all ensure that the bedding (base) of the stock is not thermally conductive. Concrete cools down especially hard. If vermiculture is kept on the ground, then the bedding should be made of polymer film or other material, and the top should be protected from frost.

In a heated room, the advantage is that during the winter the quantitative composition increases 3-4 times, but active feeding is needed here. The top layer can dry out, so the substrate must be moistened at a level of 20-30 mm of precipitation. The thickness of the bed depends on how often fertilizing with manure or organic matter is needed.

California worms

There are a huge number of species of worms, but few are able to reproduce and live in artificial conditions. Economically attractive and universal in their biological characteristics are worms that belong to the “red” species. They are used as excellent bait for fishing, production of vermicompost, liquid fertilizers and protein meal. Why do some earthworms have the commercial name "California"? There is a fairly simple answer to this. In the United States of America in the 50s of the 20th century, intensive cultivation of this worm began, which is where its commercial name came from. It was obtained as a result of the long work of the American Thomas Jason Barrett (Thomas J. Barrett, 1884 - 1975). He is the founder of industrial vermiculture in the USA. The ancestor of the California worm and prospector is the common dung worm.

What do California red worms look like?

The body is elongated, in an adult it is slightly flattened in the middle. The color ranges from dark red to brown-red, sometimes you can see pearlescent tones. The body is divided into segments with two setae. Thickness from 3 to 5 mm, average length from 8 to 10 cm, adults reach up to 14 cm. Weight from 0.4 to 1 gram, body temperature 16-22 C.

Fertility

After fertilization, two cocoons (capsules) are formed, one for each individual. Cocoons open after ripening in 3-4 weeks (depending on temperature, substrate humidity and acidity). An average of 4 to 8 young worms are born from each capsule. During the cold season, sexual activity decreases, as well as during particularly hot months. As for the moderately warm season, sexual activity increases significantly.

CALIFORNIA WORM

The worm lives 13-15 years, after two to three months of life under moderate conditions for it, it is able to produce new cocoons.

Optimal temperature conditions

Maintaining temperature is the main task, which is especially important in both winter and summer. The maximum production of vermicompost and the highest sexual activity when the substrate temperature is within 20 C. Excessive cold below 0 C or high cold - above 35 C negatively affects the worm; under these conditions it dies, like any other species. Pay close attention to vermiculture conditions. The optimal number is considered to be 750-1500 individuals per square meter, with a substrate height of about 25 cm. When working with ridges and piles, it is worth taking into account the temperature regime on the floor, since in winter a large amount of cold comes from below. The temperature of not only the environment, but also the entire volume of the substrate (feed) should be measured.

Advantages and disadvantages

A mature worm is considered after two to three months from the moment it emerges from its cocoon. Two mature individuals produce from 1000 to 2000 young heirs per year. It can be calculated that over five generations, one pair produces a large number of heirs, which must sometimes be divided into different ridges or boxes. If the concentration of worms is too high, the speed of their development will be slowed down. An excessive amount in a certain volume where they grow and reproduce does not allow some worms, especially young ones, to reach areas of the substrate that have not yet been eaten by their neighbors. In this case, there must be a constant average temperature and humidity, a sufficient amount of moisture. Good vermiculture conditions make it possible to obtain up to 15 young worms from one cocoon.

The Californian worm is much more active than a regular earthworm, reproduces faster and processes the substrate, and lives longer (up to 15 years compared to 4 years of a regular dung worm).

The disadvantage is that they do not like the cold. At sub-zero temperatures, they are unable to go deep into the ground sufficient for self-preservation - the entire population moves to warmer areas. If everything freezes, the individuals gather in one lump and die. We can conclude that growing “Californians” in winter is associated with maintaining optimal temperatures necessary for their life.

Buy California worms

Agrodream is engaged in breeding and sales. You can buy in unlimited quantities and in any container, for example in a plastic container, bucket or special box with substrate at low prices. We will ensure safety during transportation. You can purchase worms for fishing by pick-up from our farm. For vermicompost production and breeding, we recommend purchasing a population of worms for breeding.

Buy worms for fishingBuy a biohumus

Breeding the Californian worm is practiced by enthusiastic summer residents in order to obtain an excellent fertilizer - vermicompost. Its use on the site promises to increase the yield of all vegetables significantly, and in addition, it is free of all kinds of chemical additives, pathogens, and so on.

Vermicompost is a super fertilizer!

Adding vermicompost to the soil has a multifaceted effect: it neutralizes the influence of harmful salts and phytotoxic substances, heavy metals, helps maintain the structure of the soil and the optimal balance of the minerals it contains, and reduces the leaching of elements necessary for plant nutrition. If you compare the effectiveness of this with, then you can painlessly replace 15 tons of manure fertilizer with 1 ton of vermicompost. In addition, it contains at least twice as much nitrogen as humus.

If these arguments in the collection of advantages of vermicompost over traditional manure are not enough for you, then here is another one: this fertilizer has a very prolonged effect, continuing to work to improve soil fertility for at least 3-5 years. An incomparable advantage is also that vermicompost does not contain weed seeds, so after applying it you will get 30% fewer weeds than when using the same amount of manure.

How to breed California worms at home

To produce a couple of tons of this valuable fertilizer, you will only need to purchase 1500-3000 California worms. Suppose you have already prepared a place of residence for your future pets and come up with an ideal diet for them (you can read about this in). Now you can proceed directly to breeding the Californian worm, which begins, naturally, with their introduction into the prepared substrate.

To begin with, pour a couple of centimeters of sand into a box of recommended sizes - it will act as drainage. Then pour the same amount of garden soil on it. This is followed by an organic substrate in a layer of 5-7 centimeters and again add a little soil from the garden on top.

The substrate prepared as described above should be left to stand for a week. During this period, it is subjected to mandatory and uniform moistening, which allows you to get rid of the residual amount of ammonia. The next step is to turn the bucket with small live bait onto the substrate and carefully distribute them over its surface.

Then, for 5-7 days, monitor the activity and viability of the worms: they should gradually “taste” the new food for them and completely move to their new home. If this does not happen and the Californians look lethargic and inactive, then most likely the substrate you prepared turned out to be of low quality or containing toxic components.

If your pets have settled well into their new home, then further care for them will consist of timely moistening of the composted mass, regular feeding and loosening.

Loosening the substrate is necessary to saturate it with oxygen and becomes important once it reaches about 20 centimeters in height. This operation is carried out twice a week using special vermicompost forks with rounded ends and they try to loosen the organic matter to the full depth of the worms.

The Californian worm is fed for the first time a couple of days after settling in the substrate.

This is done as follows: spread the fertilizer in a layer of 3 to 5 centimeters on a quarter of the composted organic matter and carefully distribute it over the rest of the surface. After a couple of weeks, the fertilizing is repeated, but the thickness of the layer should be 5-7 centimeters and it is immediately scattered evenly throughout the box.

The frequency of fertilizing depends both on the breeding conditions of the Californian worm (temperature regime) and on their initial quantity. In general, a fresh portion of food may be required every 2-3 days in the future.

From the moment the Californians move in and the box is filled under the lid with high-value vermicompost, 3-4 months usually pass. After this, the worms are evicted from the finished fertilizer as follows. They are kept on a starvation diet for a week, and then the usual portion of food is laid out in a layer of 5-7 centimeters, into which the hungry worms happily move. This procedure must be repeated 3 times within three weeks in order to lure all Califonians and their offspring formed during this time out of the box.

The remaining processed substrate has a loose structure and a rich dark color. Before packaging for storage, it is dried (up to 40-50%) and sifted through a sieve. Prepared vermicompost is stored at temperatures from -20 to +30 degrees, but keep in mind that when frozen it will lose part of its biological activity.

Breeding the California worm is not difficult to organize in a city apartment, but this, of course, will require finding enough space for a compost bin and forcing your household to put up with such an unpleasant neighborhood.

But in conditions of a shortage of high-quality manure, this option for cultivating garden soil seems to me to be perhaps the only alternative. What do you think?

Well, if you want to try to breed a Californian in a summer cottage, I recommend watching a short video instruction.

Basic rules for preparing substrate (compost) for further colonization of worms:

Dimensions of the compost pile:

Favorable conditions for breeding the California worm:

Is there a demand for who the worm buyers are?

Technology Basics

Nuances and secrets in the process of breeding worms

The soil

Temperature

Room area

Sale

Basic conditions for engaging in worm breeding - what is needed for this business

What room can be used, requirements for it

What types of worms are best to use and why

Common earthworm

California red worm (CRW)

Worm Prospector

What equipment will you need?

Which container and in what cases is it better to use

Which soil is better to use and why

What and how to feed worms

What packaging options can be used to transfer worms to customers?

Worm implementation options

Estimated business profitability

Properties and composition of vermicompost, its advantages

Components for the production of vermicompost

Features of growing Californian worms

Preparation of nutrient substrate

Vermiculture technology

Collection of vermicompost

Application of vermicompost

Product packaging

Instructions for use

Features of application

Using vermicompost to restore soil

Benefits of vermicompost

Food for earthworms

Earthworm Care

Wintering earthworms

Application of vermicompost

Worms for breeding

California worms for breeding from the manufacturer

There are worms of various ages in the box

Number of worms in container and transportation

California worms breeding at home

Who benefits from purchasing the California worm population?

Plastic perforated container for breeding worms

Packing worms

Instructions after purchasing breeding stock

Use of earthworms

Benefits of vermicompost

Conditions for breeding earthworms

Food for earthworms

Earthworm Care

Breeding California worms at home

Removing ready-made vermicompost from worms

Wintering earthworms

Features of breeding earthworms in an apartment

Application of vermicompost

Plant growth stimulator BioVit

Breeding California worms at home.

Basic rules for preparing substrate (compost) for further colonization of worms:

Growing earthworms in the garden and in the apartment

Dimensions of the compost pile:

Favorable conditions for breeding the California worm:

Industrial breeding of Californian worms

Preparing the bed

Box orientation

Indoors

Substrate (food)

How to grow California worms at home?

Organic substrate formulation

Substrate fermentation

Growing worms in winter

California worms

What do California red worms look like?

Fertility

CALIFORNIA WORM

Optimal temperature conditions

Advantages and disadvantages

Buy California worms