From the history of medieval Rus' came the concept of beekeeping - collecting honey from wild forest bees living in tree hollows. This branch of the economy gradually led to beekeeping: making hives from hollowed out logs, installing them on the ground and domesticating honey insects. Since then, the homes for bees have changed, becoming similar to boxes, but side hives, called logs, have not been forgotten to this day.

Modern decks are more complex than their predecessors, but have retained many of the features of their design. They are not very common; most farms have only rectangular hives.

A bee deck is very reminiscent of their natural home. The swarm has the opportunity to arrange it at will, with the convenience of itself, and not the beekeeper.

It is unlikely to come across bee blocks in a large apiary where honey is produced in industrial quantities. Beehives of this type are chosen by beekeepers who are taking their first steps in beekeeping and advocate for maximum proximity to natural conditions keeping bees in hives, want to experiment, cannot devote much time to caring for the apiary and collecting honey.

For reference!

Honey prepared by bees in a log is very tasty, aromatic, and seasoned. But during the season the volume of its production is 3-5 times less than from a rectangular hive. Therefore, log beekeeping is more suitable for amateur beekeepers who plan to sell only excess honey.

The sides are placed at the entrance to the south, on stands. They can be placed both on the ground and on trees, roofs of buildings: a small height is more common for insects. The main thing is to choose a place: it should be dry, shaded during the day (from the heat, some of the honeycombs may melt and fall off), without strong wind or foreign odors.

Comparison of decks with modern hives

In addition to the small volume and excellent quality of the honey produced, borti have several other important differences from rectangular bee houses:

1. Increased structural strength.
2. The size of the deck is quite large; it is enough for a large bee colony to live and reproduce for a long time.
3. Comfortable for use by bees. It is quite inconvenient for the beekeeper to remove the honeycombs and ensure cleanliness inside the deck.
4. Human participation in the life of insects comes down to spring cleaning and removing part of the harvested honey in the fall (some take away its remains in the spring).
5. When building wax honeycombs, filling up excess holes, and treating diseases, the bees in the deck are given independence. Insects place honeycombs as convenient for them, gradually filling the internal area of ​​the bead.
6. There is no need for regular monitoring, preventive treatment, or care for the bees’ home.

Log beekeeping and its principles

The use of log hives involves rare human contact with honey insects, and an almost complete absence of interference in the processes occurring inside the bee house. There are positive and negative aspects to this.

On the one hand, decks are easy to care for and inexpensive to maintain. On the other hand, the beekeeper does not have the opportunity to significantly influence the increase in honey production. It can only free part of the internal space of the bead from honeycombs, encouraging the bees to fill it again.

pros

Log beekeeping has several advantages:

• it is more environmentally friendly - no artificial materials are used for the construction of honeycombs, there is no treatment with drugs against diseases and pests;
• Bees that are rarely disturbed and fumigated are less likely to attack people. Decks can be installed on a suburban area adjacent to neighboring ones;
• insects make the home as suitable as possible for living, create many honeycombs of a convenient size, and fill the extra cracks in the deck body. These factors reduce the number of diseases, prolong the life of bees, increase their resistance to external conditions, and improve the quality of the products they produce;
• Maintenance of the deck does not require large expenses: you do not need to constantly monitor the health of the bee swarm, feed it, or make frames. You can save on the purchase of many beekeeper tools;
• there is no need to allocate a room for wintering and prepare for it: during the cold season, the beet remains outside. Suitable conditions are formed inside it, without significant temperature changes;
• Collecting honey is less traumatic for bees; only part of the honeycomb is taken from them, without touching the nest, leaving a supply of honey for food in the winter.

Minuses

Decks create a small amount of honey. They are adapted more for the convenience of bees, so part of the supplies is left to them. In the year when insects have moved in, it is recommended not to open the log - everything prepared is needed for the first wintering.

In the conditions of the deck, there remains a narrow free space for honey collection, in which it is difficult to cut off the honeycombs. The formation and filling of new honeycombs is a slow process, its speed depends only on the insects.

On the walls of the walls, bees create many closely spaced honeycombs, occupying most of the height of each building. The old wax structures are gradually becoming clogged. It is difficult for a beekeeper to remove dark honeycombs that are unusable for use, but without thorough cleaning, insects will leave the clogged home approximately once every 5 years.

Many people are confused by the impossibility of selective breeding of bees in logs. Typically, a collective bee colony lives in such conditions.

The sides cannot be moved; they are bulky and not suitable for this (the honeycomb inside may break).

Structural varieties

Currently, you can find 3 types of decks:

• vertical;
• reclining lounger;
• collapsible multi-storey.

For reference!

The vertical cylindrical structure is most similar to the ancient side. This is a piece of a large log 1.5-2 m high, with a diameter of at least 50 cm, the middle of which has been cleaned out, leaving walls 5 cm thick. Both ends are covered with wooden lids.

Loungers can also be made from a large piece of hardwood. The thickness of the trunk should be enough to comfortably accommodate insects. If this cannot be found, the hive is put together from thick boards in the shape of a straight parallelepiped. The lounger is placed on the stand at an angle of 20-30°.

Several sections, hollow on the inside, are stacked on top of each other to increase honey production. The upper tiers are removed after filling with honey, replacing them with empty ones, the lower body remains untouched.

Frames in the deck

Initially, the sides did not include the installation of internal waxed frames. Modern beekeepers who want to get more honey can add frames to any hive-deck design. If it is made of a log, opening doors are made on its back wall: for inspecting the nest, collecting honeycombs.

Frames are usually placed on the upper tier, under the ceiling (insulated lid), where bees make a nest and prepare honey for the winter.

DIY making

There are several ways to make a deck for bees. First you need to prepare necessary materials and tools, make drawings with calculations.

For the body, a single piece of trunk or thick boards are selected. The height of the sides should be at least 120 cm, the internal diameter should be over 40 cm (slats are attached to the deck of boards from the inside to make a round cross-section, or the whole thing is made to look like a barrel).

For reference!

Housing for insects can only be made from dried hardwood: birch, oak, linden, ash, poplar, aspen.

To make a simple log for bees with your own hands, first separate 2 circles 5 cm thick from a piece of trunk. Then the remaining part (usually it is sawed in half lengthwise for convenience) is hollowed out and the core is cut out. The inner surface is treated. All parts are dried.

Both halves of the empty cylinder are held together. On one side, at the junction, a slot about 1 cm wide is cut out for a tap hole - it starts from the ceiling, occupying 75% of the height of the deck. You can drill several holes with a diameter of 2-3 cm, located one above the other. The remaining external cracks are sealed.

The bottom cover hinges and has hinges and a latch. The top one is nailed down. There are 2 crosspieces installed inside for future honeycombs: in the middle and near the ceiling.

For collecting honey and beeswax collapsible design more convenient than one piece. It consists of several hollow cylinders 30 cm high, the top one is closed with a lid.

Preparation and settlement of bees

The production of a hive deck is completed by drying it in air for several weeks. Only after this does the colonization of honey insects begin.

If there is an apiary nearby, a free swarm with a queen may fly out of the hive. It is collected in a box-swarmer for transplanting into the side.

For reference!

Bees often settle in a free deck themselves; you just need to create suitable conditions and lure them with the aroma of propolis. If this is not possible, a bee colony is purchased. You need to choose a young queen, ideally no older than 3 years.

A wide board and a sheet of plywood are laid in front of the entrance, into which the contents of the scoop are carefully shaken out. They themselves will gradually crawl into the deck through the entrance hole.

Whether the insects liked the home will become clear within a few days. If the bees began to fly away in search of a good bribe (prey), it means that they are equipping a deck for living. Aimless circling suggests that the swarm may fly away, finding the settlement conditions unfavorable.

Log beekeeping is an interesting area that deserves attention. It is suitable for beginner beekeepers. You can make a bead without any skills, and it will not require labor-intensive care. The resulting honey of excellent quality is enough to treat your family and friends.

In nature, bees live in tree crevices and hollows. Wood allows you to maintain a stable temperature inside, provides access to fresh air, which has a positive effect on the conversion of nectar into honey. For this reason, log beekeeping has not lost popularity for many hundreds of years.

Bee logs began to be used in the 14th-15th centuries. They were mounted on a platform between two trees in the forest. These were solid logs two meters long. Over the years, this design began to be installed closer to housing on the ground. The apiary was lined with trees.

The wood was used from centuries-old blind pines, always with voids inside. By the 17th century, due to the rapid development of industry, shipping, urban development and a shortage of wood, log beekeeping fell into decline. Modern logs are prefabricated structures with a stand; only conservative beekeepers use solid logs.

Features of keeping bees in decks

Breeding insects in logs requires minimal intervention in their lives, so the keeping method is ideal for. close to each other, leaving a little space for the flight - 1-2 centimeters, the tap hole is covered with propolis.

Work with bees is carried out twice a year:

• At the end of winter, in spring. The nest is cleared of debris and the family is checked. Black (small size) honeycombs are removed.
• In autumn - for collecting honey. The frequency of insect swarming in logs is low, because they have a dwelling 3 times larger in volume than the hive.

Therefore, bees practically do not get sick, and the honey turns out to be healing.

Types of modern bee decks

Today there are three types:

• Vertical(similar to board). Such a log should have a large diameter and an empty core.

• It is made using round timber or from boards, like borti.

• Frame. A design that combines the previous two types.

The last option makes it possible to get the maximum amount of honey.

Preparing the hive deck and populating the bees

As soon as the weather gets warm (late May – early June), preparatory work begins. The side is cleaned; there should be no dirt or debris inside.

The barrel should dry well. The inside is scraped and rubbed with mint or lemon balm. When using fresh wood raw materials, you will have to dry it for a whole year. If during this time hornets or wasps have settled inside, their nests are split up.

The future home is lined with crushed particles of nests. The deck is equipped with honeycombs, they should have a dark brown color. White ones (they are too fragile), with beebread, low-copper and black are not suitable.

The honeycomb frame is divided by wire into three parts along its length. The strips are divided into several more parts transversely measuring 3x10. The honeycombs are secured with wedges made of dried viburnum wood or plastic. Hammering of honeycombs begins from the back row; the latter can be placed perpendicular to the rest. It will take about 6-8 pieces. Don't be surprised that the bees will rearrange the dry land - this is normal.

Crosses are installed along the entire length of the hollow. The top and bottom are covered with lids. If they fit perfectly, then nails will not be needed.

The top of the nest is covered with a broom of birch and/or linden branches; adding fern is allowed. The shelter will protect the house from cold, direct sunlight and keep warm.

Before bees move in, work begins with a thorough removal of debris near the future hollow; insects are very sensitive to unpleasant odors and dirt. The beekeeper should not approach the logs at 10-15 meters until complete settlement occurs. Afterwards, do not bother insects for another 3 days.

Artificial colonization of the colony is carried out by a swarm weighing 3 kg with a fertile queen. The insects must first sit in the village for 3-4 days so that there is little food left in the crops and they agree to the proposed housing. Insects settle in before sunset. If a swarm of bees flies out of the entrance quickly and confidently, rushing to work, then they liked the new house.

Preparation for the arrangement begins a year before the insects move in. First you need to decide on the type of decks and prepare carpentry tools. Prepare boards or round timber. If you find a log whose thickness is not suitable for arranging a hive, you will have to make a square bed from boards.

Tools and materials

To make an inclined lounger you will need:

• pine sheathing or frame with slats 20x40 cm;
• cladding inside and outside - lining, pine;
• pine timber for a stand measuring 40x50 cm;
• insulation for thermal insulation;
• for finishing the outside - roll waterproofing;
• ondulin, roofing felt or profile are suitable for roofing;
• wood fasteners.

For a vertical side you will need a ridge of wood. The height should not be less than 60 cm. It is not recommended to use pine trees; birch, willow or maple are best.

The beet should be dried, but not rotten. You will need two more boards, measuring 200x40 cm, for the removable side panel.

The production of an inclined lounger begins with fastening the frame slats - arranging a taphole. Inside, the entire surface is covered with clapboard and secured with a plinth. The outer sheathing is made of insulation, on top of which waterproofing is placed. The ends and roof remain free.

The door is installed on the bottom end, with insulation, preferably removable. The inside of the deck should be like a tire in diameter, but not square. The sheathing with cells 100-150 mm is mounted on the top and covered with roofing material.

The vertical side is made by carpentry. To do this you need to have practical experience working with a chainsaw or axe, adze. Initially, markings are made for the length and the core is removed with a chainsaw. Wood debris is removed and the surface is trimmed with a chisel.

For longer use, a lid is made. It is best to make it from two sanded parts (for a tight fit), which will be removed separately from each other. A hole is cut - a taphole - and the roof is laid on top.

Assembly and installation process

The reclining lounger is installed on a stand and fixed. The body of the vertical bead is installed so that the taphole is located at an angle of 90 degrees. Move-in can only take place next year, but the house must remain in its permanent location for a whole year.

Advantages and disadvantages of beekeeping in decks

Main advantage – living conditions for bees as close as possible to natural ones. There is no need for humans to interfere with the honey making process. Minimum costs and improved aroma of the finished product.

The disadvantages include:

• inability to control the process;
• risk of family death in winter;
• if the swarming process begins, you will have to populate a new family;
• While collecting honey, part of the family dies.

The attractiveness of log breeding is the environmental friendliness of the process and, as a result, the improvement useful properties honey. And the ease of use of the decks allows anyone to take up beekeeping, even those without experience in this matter.

I have always had a desire to keep bees and taste the taste of honey from my own apiary.

When I moved to live on the land, my dream came true: I purchased three hives along with yellow-striped residents. I decided that to begin with, this number of hives would be enough for me to get my first experience.

After some time, the understanding came that the methods of traditional beekeeping involve constant intervention in life bee family. As a result, bees are almost constantly under stress, get sick, become angry and aggressive.

There is no need to talk about the quality of honey with the traditional approach to beekeeping. In my opinion, what is now sold under the name “honey” has nothing to do with real Honey.

There is information that it takes about 7 years for a bee colony to start making real honey. And all this time, the bees must be given the opportunity to winter on honey, which they collected at the most favorable time for this.

Thanks to this, in the spring, bees have the opportunity to “see” in which combs the honey is candied and in which it is not, and draw a conclusion from which plants they should not take nectar.

Next season, bees will already fly around flowers with “low-quality” nectar. And so, from year to year, bees gradually gain experience and produce increasingly high-quality honey.
Honey from such a bee colony will be a real treasure. This kind of honey was used in ancient recipes to treat various diseases.

Few people want to wait that long. Most often, they try to take as much honey as possible from the bees, pumping it out several times a season.

Bees, feeling that summer is coming to an end, begin to frantically collect nectar from all plants in a row, just to gain the necessary supply for wintering. Overwintering on such low-quality honey, the bees become weaker and constantly get sick.

Also, unscrupulous “beekeepers”, taking as much honey as possible from the bees, feed them sugar syrup in return. And when pumping out honeycombs in a honey extractor, honey comes into contact with metal, which also negatively affects its quality.

So, in order to avoid all these disadvantages of traditional beekeeping, I decided to try an unconventional approach. Make a deck and populate it swarm of bees.

One day, driving past the school, I saw municipal workers cutting down huge poplar trees. The diameter of the trunks at the base of these trees was more than a meter.

Workers sawed the tree trunk into pieces 2 meters long. They turned out to be such big logs. The thought immediately came to my mind that these logs were an excellent material for making a deck.

The workers graciously allowed me to take one of these logs. Its length was 1 m 80 cm and its diameter was about 80 cm.

With the help of friends, the four of us, with great difficulty, loaded this heavy piece of raw wood into the back of my car. At that time, I used the Izh “Oda” - “heel” as a “workhorse”. And he brought the log to his site, unloaded it, and left it to dry for a year. And the next year in the spring I began making the deck.

Making a deck for bees

My main tools were a chainsaw, an ax and an adze.
The first thing I did was clear the bark from the log. Then I used a chainsaw to saw it along its entire length into two equal halves.

I made cuts from two opposite sides, since the length of the chainsaw bar was not enough to cut all 80 cm at a time.

Then he began to break this large stump into two parts. First I drove wedges into the cuts, and then I used a jack.

I decided to make the thickness of the walls of the deck 10 cm. I made appropriate markings on the two halves of the log so that in a fit of labor I would not accidentally remove excess wood. Using a chainsaw, I tried to cut out as much of the core of the tree as possible, not reaching the 2-4 cm mark.

Then I used an adze in my work to remove excess and make the inner surface rounded and smooth.

I used a chainsaw to trim the ends of the walls, making them even.
Using a plane, I leveled the planes with which the halves of the future deck meet each other.

I pulled the resulting halves together using tightening straps with a ratchet mechanism (the so-called load ties).

Next I needed to make the lids that close the deck at the ends. I made them from timber 100mm by 150mm thick. I sawed blanks 90 cm long. I connected them together using the tongue-and-groove method. I placed the resulting shield on the end of the future deck, made markings with a marker and sawed off all the excess.

I screwed the lid to the deck with wood grouse screws with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 200 mm.

After I made the deck, I had to come up with a stand for it. The weight of the deck turned out to be quite large, so I decided to make the stand from a metal profile 20mm by 40mm and 2mm thick.

“In my head,” I roughly imagined what the stand should look like: 4 posts, jumpers that fasten these posts together and two supports on which the deck will rest.

Despite the fact that I did not have welding skills, I welded the stand myself, and it seemed to work out.

The seams turned out to be not so beautiful, but the whole structure was held strong enough and did not fall apart under load.

I made the supports for the deck in such a way that the deck lay at an angle of 30 degrees to the surface of the earth.

Then I painted the stand a nice green color that was pleasing to my eyes.
I dismantled the entire structure, moved it to its permanent location and put everything back together again.

The first year I removed the covers from the ends of the deck and let it dry completely. In total, it took me about 1 month to make the deck.

Populating a swarm in a deck

When the deck, in my opinion, was ready to accept residents, it was time to think about where to get new bees. You could buy a bee package online, or buy a young family from familiar beekeepers.

But I decided to go a different route: I made a trap to catch bee swarms and hung it on a tree that I thought was suitable.

Just a couple of days later a swarm flew into the trap. Apparently, beginners really are lucky. My happiness knew no bounds!

I put the top cover on the deck. The bottom end of the deck has not yet been covered. He took out the frames with the bees sitting on them from the trap and placed them in the lower part of the deck, and now he closed the lower end with a lid.

In order for the bees to fly out and fly into their home, I drilled holes with a diameter of 10 mm with a drill on one side of the deck along the entire length, but not reaching 20-30 cm to the edge.

The next day I approached the deck with excitement. The probability that the bee swarm would not take root and would fly away from the “new building” was quite high.

But I worried in vain: the bees were busily flying in and out of the log, carrying pollen and actively settling into their new home: everything worked out for me!

End.

P.S. If you want to clarify something, write, I will be glad to answer!

The house for working women must be reliably protected from adverse weather conditions. It’s entirely possible to make one yourself, which will be durable, inexpensive and easy to install. A few more indicators that speak in favor of ideal evidence: ease of use and ease of transportation.

As building materials Pine, spruce, willow and linden are suitable for housing bees from a hollow tree trunk. In addition, buzzing insects will be more comfortable in houses made from other soft materials. Practice shows that it is better to give preference to dry wood that does not have cracks. If you pick it up and notice knots on it, then don’t rush to put it off. You can use wood with knots, but those that have grown into it.

Why is it good? In this type of evidence, you can quickly change and expand frames, as well as rearrange cases. All you need to do to properly maintain this type of hive is to remove the honeycombs filled with fresh honey.

This structure does not need to be moved for wintering; it is enough to insulate the deck. The rest of the time, the natural house can only be checked in autumn and spring. In the autumn, this is necessary to distribute the accumulated honey, and in the spring - to inspect the bees.

How to make it yourself?

You can create such a house for working women with your own hands from solid wood or several boards. For the first case, you will need a ready-made deck, which can be made hollow using a saw.

If there is no suitable log, you can use long bars (1.5 m long), cut in the form of a trapezoid (6 by 10). They are fitted tightly, placed on glue or screws and tightened with belts. The diameter of such a structure for bees is up to 47 cm. In such a house for insects, you should make an entrance (it is located in the middle of the structure), and at the bottom there should be a hole for garbage.

Tools and materials

• 1 ready-made hollow 40 cm by 120 cm with walls 4-8 cm thick;
• 1 cover board for a 40 cm hollow;
• fabric for lining the lid and fastening for it;
• glue, bolts, fasteners and other auxiliary materials.

Manufacturing instructions

1. Close one side of the workpiece tightly (it should be located on top).
2. Take the future lid and carve it so that it tightly covers the hive. Note the fabric lining on the lid. It will not make it easier to open the deck. The lid can be attached with hinges or a handle can be made on it.
3. Measure 30 cm from the opening side and make slits (tapholes), the height of which will be no more than 1.5 cm.
4. Dry the structure thoroughly.
5. Place the house under a canopy at an angle of 20-30°, opening side down.
6. Populate the house with bees. The most convenient way to do this is using the swarm method.

A prototype deck, which is a natural beehive, can also be made from 4 (or more) boards. A visual demonstration of such a design can be found in the video online or in the picture below.

Bort is the name given to a hollow in a tree if bees live in it. It forms naturally or is hollowed out by beekeepers. In order to secure the honeycombs, 2 snoses are placed in the side - poles that cross each other, and to collect honey they make dolzhei (narrow holes) and borteviki (long sticks with holes). Typically the size of the bead is one meter in length and 50 centimeters in width.

One tree can have up to three hollows, which does not harm it at all. The lowest edge should be at least four meters high to protect the bees from predators. In addition, it is believed that honey collected from high sides tastes better. The highest hollows were located at a height of 14 meters.

Bortis serve for 300 years. On average, 2 buckets of honey were obtained from one hollow, and with generous flowering of honey plants - up to 50 kilograms.

What is beekeeping?

On-board beekeeping, or beekeeping, is the oldest form of bee breeding, in which they settle not in the usual hives, but in hollows. Beekeeping means engaging in forest beekeeping.

The origins of beekeeping

The first beekeepers extracted honey from accidentally discovered hollows in which forest bees lived. Gradually, they learned to purposefully search for insect homes in order to obtain tasty and healthy prey.

IN Ancient Rus' On-board beekeeping became especially widespread in the 10th-17th centuries, occupying an important role among sectors of the economy. At this time, the volumes of honey and wax were quite large. Gall, who traveled around Russia in the 11th century, noted in his notes the abundance of honey and wax. Beekeeping was especially developed in forest areas on the banks of the Oka and Desna, in the Dnieper region and near Voronezh.

The first beekeepers were, in a way, poachers. While collecting honey in the fall, they left the bee colony without food supplies, which led to the death of insects. Therefore, in the spring, beekeepers had to populate the hollows with new bee colonies, for which they often went to another area.

This method had several advantages. Thanks to the annual renewal of honeycombs, the rotting of the honeycombs was significantly slowed down, and the bees were rarely exposed to diseases and did not become smaller.

Decline of beekeeping

The first signs of the decline of beekeeping became noticeable in the 18th century. At this time, Tsar Peter brought vodka and wine to Russia, replacing the traditional mead. Wax was replaced by kerosene. In addition, they began to cut down forests, freeing up land for arable land, which led to a reduction in the habitat of bees. To save their charges from destruction, beekeepers cut logs with hollows from fallen trees and transported them to another area.

The resulting structure was fixed to the tree, which turned out to be quite a labor-intensive task. To simplify the work, people found a clearing in which sparse cut trees grew (this is where the word “apiary” comes from) and installed the sides on the ground. As a result, insect monitoring and honey collection were facilitated.

In addition, the beekeepers began to leave part of the honey for their wards, which ensured the preservation of the bee colony in the winter. Thanks to such transformations in mid-19th centuries, an apiary system developed, which laid the foundation for present-day beekeeping. At this time, log beekeeping replaced beekeeping.

Modern beekeeping

Nowadays, beekeeping and log beekeeping has been preserved in a single place - in the Shulgan-Tash nature reserve (previously called Burzyansky), located in Bashkiria. It serves as a national symbol of the country, preserving its historical roots, promoting respect for nature, earnings and health. Each family has its own secrets that are passed on to their children.

The preservation of live beekeeping in Bashkortostan is explained by the fact that the local population did not build houses for a long time and led a nomadic lifestyle. Another prerequisite for the development of beekeeping is the presence of forests untouched by human hands. In addition, linden and maple trees, known as excellent honey plants, are common in the country.

Nuances of on-board beekeeping

The profession of beekeeper and its secrets, including magical spells, were passed down from generation to generation. Uninitiated people considered this profession dangerous and mysterious, and beekeepers were equated with werewolves and called squirrels.

In addition to being labor intensive, the profession also presented serious danger. It is known that the bite of one hundred medium bees (forest bees are much larger) can lead to death. And in one hollow there live over 20 thousand insects.

Therefore, in order to survive, people involved in beekeeping had to have certain knowledge about the behavior of bees and the necessary experience, as well as have good physical fitness, since they had to climb very tall trees.

To climb the tree, beekeepers used available means: lezivo (special ropes), kiram (special belt for fastening) or rope, claws, spikes, ladders. To protect themselves, they gradually improved their tools, among which a small ax with a crooked ax took center stage.

Horse hair was used to make protective masks, a ring-shaped knife, a hatchet, a chisel, a one-handed scraper and an adze were used to construct the sides, and a gun was used to protect against predators (they often returned from fishing with bear skin).

The beekeepers also had to protect the beards from bears who wanted to get a treat. For this purpose, a heavy log was tied near the entrance. The bear, in order to penetrate the hollow, pushed away the log and received a retaliatory blow. He began to “fight” with the log to no avail until he retreated. To increase the effectiveness of protection, metal spikes were hammered into the logs.

Features of on-board honey

The honey obtained from forest bees is unique. It is distinguished by its increased purity and great value, due to which it is widely used in alternative medicine. It is rich in vitamins and mineral elements, which provides its nutritional value, helps strengthen the body's defenses and get rid of many diseases. Its use is especially recommended for colds, sore throat, flu, acute respiratory viral infections, and pneumonia.

Borbor honey is characterized by a dark brown color, tart taste, smoked linden aroma and excellent digestibility. It is opaque, very thick and very viscous. It is assembled by hand, without the use of mechanics.

Honey does not undergo pumping, which allows you to save all the beneficial substances and enzymes.

But in order for it to retain its properties in the future, it must be stored in containers made of natural material, for example, in clay pots or cedar barrels.

Read more about on-board honey.

Making borti with your own hands

Before you make a fence for bees with your own hands, you need to choose a living, healthy and fairly tall tree, the diameter of which should be at least 0.8 meters. The best trees for borti are oaks and ash trees. A hollow is cut out of the tree and the inside is emptied. The length of the sides must be at least 0.9 meters, and the depth - up to 0.3 meters.

They also make a dovjeya (window) for inspection of the border and honey collection. The height of the dovjei corresponds to the height of the side, and the width varies between 12-18 centimeters. After finishing the work, the window is closed with wooden lids, which are secured with maple wedges. The width of the lid is equal to the width of the dovzhei, and the height is about 6 centimeters. Important nuance– the top cap should be longer than the bottom one.

After making and closing the window, another hole is made - a taphole. It should be placed slightly above the middle of the side at a right angle to the main window.

Having a drawing, modern instruments In addition to the traditional and necessary skills, you can make a board with your own hands in one day. But it is not enough just to make it; it is necessary to ensure its safety for many years.

Thus, in winter, increased humidity forms in the hollow, which leads to rotting of the wood and a decrease in the productivity of the bee colony. To prevent such problems, it is recommended to create a ventilation system in the form of microscopic holes. You should also clean the honeycombs in a timely manner. Their accumulation in a hollow can cause the death of insects.