Opening an old family album, we are momentarily plunged into the past, sometimes so distant that it is already difficult to remember, and only old faded and rather tattered photographs remind us of events that once happened, of people with whom we once crossed paths, of the long gone into the oblivion of time. And sometimes we find ourselves not in our past at all, but in the past of our grandparents, and we can only imagine them as young judging by a photograph.

Retouching old photographs is a way to return photos to their original appearance. This is especially valuable for photographs from the times of the Great Patriotic War, which have enormous historical value both for descendants and for history precisely in the state in which they are. It is highly recommended not to modify such photographs, add color to them, or add any objects. But sometimes such photos are so damaged that it is difficult to make out what and who is depicted on them; here, of course, various programs - inventions of the modern world - come to the rescue. One such program is Photoshop, a program that includes a huge set of tools. She is able to solve the most complex retouching problems.

Restoration of an old photograph - breathe a second life into a photo

When restoring old photos, the main thing is to preserve its uniqueness, while removing all the flaws that have appeared over time: various abrasions, creases, cracks, specks of dust and damaged areas. Each Photoshop master probably works more intuitively, like an artist, manually completing lost fragments, correcting defects, and is guided solely by his vision for each specific photo, what it should look like after processing. Restoring old photographs in Photoshop does not have any clear step-by-step instructions, since all photos are different, the damage on them is very diverse. But there are a few of the most commonly used techniques and tools that are worth talking about.

Restoring an old photo

We will consider the restoration of an old photograph using this photo as an example, we will try to restore its original appearance, the photograph has quite a lot of obvious cracks and creases, this is a scan, and we will work with it.

• Let's load it into "Photoshop" - "File" / "Open".
• Our photo of the girl is loaded into the Photoshop workspace.
• First you need to remove the white edges of the photo, to do this we will use the “Crop” tool. This tool is located on the toolbar on the left side of the workspace (by default). We click on the tool, an editing area appears around our photo, we move the mouse over this area, up and down arrows are displayed, by pulling which we can hide the edges of the photo, areas with obvious defects. After we have completely adjusted our photo, we simply press the Enter key.

When an old photograph is being restored, the eye gets used to processing one photo for a long time, and then you can simply ruin the image. In order to be able to see the original at any time and compare it with the working layer, you should make a duplicate layer at each stage in order to compare the final image with the original one.

Removing photo defects - “Spot Healing Brush”

• Duplicate our photo - keyboard shortcut Ctrl+J.
• After cropping, we still have parts of the photo with defects in the corners; they can be corrected with the Spot Healing Brush tool, since in most cases this will not be difficult in damaged areas. We set the brush size depending on the size of the damage and simply paint over the area, lightly, as if creeping onto the edge of the background. Moreover, after processing, if the background is uniform, the brush will replace the torn corner of the photo with a similar tone and texture to the adjacent area. Step by step, you should paint over all the small defects in the photo with the “Spot Healing Brush”.

Correction of temporary losses - “Patch”

• Another tool is “Patch”, which does an excellent job of tasks such as restoring and restoring old photographs. We select a tool and circle the problem area, trying to capture only the defect. To create a selection of the area for the patch, you need to close the circle. Then grab the selected area and drag it onto the area nearby, try to avoid excessive contrast when selecting the area for the patch.
• After processing with these tools, this is what we got.

When working with areas of the central object in a photo, you should be extremely careful, as the Spot Healing Brush tool creates a “blurry” effect. In order not to lose the texture and detail of the image, you need to make the brush size slightly larger than the size of the defect and not overdo it.

The “Stamp” tool for restoring old photos

Another great tool that Photoshop artists often use is the Clone Stamp tool. Its principle is based on the transfer of color and texture to the damaged area from an area specified manually. Thus, with a correctly configured tool (the settings are individual for each photo) - brush size, opacity, pressure - the texture located next to the damage is transferred to the damaged area, which allows you to restore old photos with sufficient quality and return them to their original appearance. The program for restoring old photos "Photoshop" has a huge amount tools and settings, as well as extensions in the form of built-in plugins for a wide variety of purposes.

Levels - adding depth to a photo

In addition to scuffs, cracks and tears, a photograph will fade over the years, so it's worth making at least one correction.

• Create an empty layer Ctrl N.
• Select “Image” / “Correction” / “Levels”.
• On the histogram, we move the sliders so as to exclude from the photo areas where there are no pixels - move the right one to the left, the left one to the right, the middle slider slightly to the left, but here you need to look at the lightening effect. When processing photographs, you should be guided not so much step by step instructions, as much as with your vision of a specific photo and a sense of the golden mean.

In principle, the restoration of an old photograph from cracks, temporary creases and breaks is complete; for slightly damaged photographs these tools will be more than enough. We have corrected most of the shortcomings, and you can leave the photo in this state, or you can also adjust the tone and saturation, remove noise, make the photo brighter and more interesting. It all depends on your imagination.

Good day to everyone, my dear friends and readers of my blog. Of course, everyone wants their photos to look good and beautiful, but unfortunately this does not always work out. Therefore, today I would like to tell you how to improve the quality of a photo in Photoshop, and completely simple methods, which absolutely anyone can handle.

Of course, it’s best to immediately watch some kind of complete training course on improving the quality of photos in Photoshop. And I would recommend watching these video tutorials, since this course is specifically designed to make photographs much better and higher quality than they turned out initially. But if you don’t want to study these issues much, you can look at some of the basics that I offered you in this article.

Levels

If you see that you have a dull, dark or overexposed image, then you can try, or play with the levels. Let's see how levels work.

Enter the menu “Image” - “Correction” - “Levels”, or press the key combination CTRL+L. A window with levels will open and something similar to a graph will be displayed.

The first thing you need to look at is whether there is white space around the edges or not. As we can see, in our case there is an empty area on the right side, but on the left side it is not empty, it is also quite small. Then we move the right slider to the area where the void ends. And on the left side, move the slider a little to the right.

As a result, we can already see that the image has become much better.

Sharpness

Naturally, an important factor in improving the quality of a photograph is sharpness, since it is important for us that the image looks clearer. You can read mine, but in my case I will select "Filters" − "Sharpening" — "Smart Sharpen".

After that, you can play with the effect and radius sliders. Here I decided to put the effect on 50 percent, and the radius 1 . It may be different for you.

And as we can see, the image quality has again improved.

Noise Removal

When there is various noise in a photo (most often these bad pixels appear due to poor lighting or shooting from a mobile phone), this is of course unpleasant. But Photoshop will help you reduce the intensity of noise, which will make your photo better.

To do this you need to go to “Filter” - “Noise” - "Dust and Scratches". There are only two parameters here. And it is with them that we have to play. The Radius parameter adds a little blur, but as a rule it does not spoil the photo, but smoothes out unnecessary noise. Try setting the parameter to 1 or 2 and see the result. Isohelium can be left untouched, or increased by a few units at most.

The only thing is that in some cases, removing noise from a full image may not really help. This path may make the photo appear blurrier. And in order to reduce our losses and build an optimal balance between grain and blur, we need to work with each channel separately.

In order to activate channels, you will need to click on the tab of the same name in the layers panel. If this tab is not there, then go to the “Window” menu and select “Channels” there. A special tab will immediately appear in the layers panel. So go straight to it.

Here you will see 4 channels: 1 general (RGB), and the other three relate to each color separately. The trick is that the overall noise in a photograph can be reflected for the most part in only one channel. That's why we'll look at our situation. Press successive key combinations CTRL+3, CTRL+4, CTRL+5.

Look carefully, there is a channel here that contains more noise than other channels. I personally didn’t find such a channel, but this happens quite often. But if the blue channel was the most problematic, then I would leave only it active and go to “Filter” - “Noise” - "Dust and Scratches". And here I will do the same thing as above, i.e. turn the sliders.

Next you can click on CTRL+2 to make all channels visible and see what our result will look like. As you can see, due to the change in one channel, the picture began to look better, but if this is applied in a general merge, it will still turn out worse.

If you see a little blur, you can tighten it up using the same sharpening. The picture may not be perfectly clean, but at least it will look better than it did originally.

Exposition

Another pretty good function for image correction. With help we can also pay attention to brightness, light, contrast, etc. Again, you just need to enter the menu “Image” - “Correction” - “Exposure”.

3 sliders will appear in front of you. They are the ones who allow you to change your photo, improving its quality and display. I won't explain what each slider does. Take a look for yourself and see what changes. I think you will find a place where the photo will look great.

Juiciness

This is simply a wonderful feature, and as you already understand, it is responsible for the richness and saturation of the image. Let's see how this feature works. To do this, again go to the “Image” - “Correction” menu, only now select the “Juicity” item.

Here, as you already understand, you will control the richness and saturation of the image. So take the flag in your hands and start moving the sliders. By moving them to a certain distance, we can see that the image has become truly brighter and more colorful.

Of course, this is just a minimal fraction of what can actually be done with images in Photoshop. To tell about all the possibilities, you will have to write many long articles or even publish your own course. Rather, I’m showing you the possibilities of work, that even if you get a photo of poor quality, then all is not lost, and with the help of our editor you can correct some things.

But here I meant working with ordinary images, and not photographs of our grandparents, which have already grown old, wrinkled, scratched, worn out, etc. (in the sense of photography, not grandparents). I’d rather talk about how to improve the quality of an old photograph in another article, since we will have a separate conversation about this and completely different tools.

But now you know how to improve the quality of a photograph in Photoshop in the simplest ways that do not require any supernatural knowledge.

But if you want to learn Photoshop well, all its tools, techniques and functions, but I highly recommend you watch this wonderful video course, thanks to which you will learn to “swim” in Photoshop like a fish in water. Everything is told clearly and to the point. The course is simply amazing.

Well, this concludes my lesson for today. I hope you liked it, so don’t forget to subscribe to my blog updates, and also share the article with your friends on in social networks. I look forward to seeing you again as a guest. Good luck to you. Bye bye!

Best regards, Dmitry Kostin.

P.S.

The first five people to leave a comment on this article will receive 4 points in my . Good luck!

Old photographs help us travel back to a time when there were no DSLRs or wide-angle lenses, people were kinder, and the era was more romantic.

Such photographs most often have low contrast and faded colors, and often, if handled carelessly, creases and other defects appear in the photo.

When restoring an old photograph, we face several tasks. The first is to get rid of defects. The second is to increase contrast. The third is to enhance the clarity of details.

Source material for this lesson:

As you can see, all possible flaws are present in the picture.

In order to better see them all, you need to desaturate the photo by pressing the key combination CTRL+SHIFT+U.

We will eliminate defects with two tools.

For small areas we will use "Healing brush", and we will retouch the large ones "Patch".

Choosing a tool "Healing Brush" and holding down the key ALT click on the area next to the defect that has a similar shade (in this case, brightness), and then transfer the resulting sample to the defect and click again. This way we eliminate all minor defects in the image.

The work is quite painstaking, so be patient.

The patch works as follows: circle the problem area with the cursor and drag the selection to an area where there are no defects.

We use a patch to remove defects from the background.

As you can see, there is still quite a lot of noise and dirt left in the photo.

Create a copy of the top layer and go to the menu “Filter – Blur – Surface Blur”.

We configure the filter approximately as in the screenshot. It is important to eliminate noise on the face and shirt.

Then we press ALT and click on the mask icon in the layers palette.

With this brush we carefully go over the face and collar of the hero’s shirt.

If minor defects in the background need to be eliminated, then the best solution would be to replace it completely.

Create a fingerprint of layers ( CTRL+SHIFT+ALT+E) and create a copy of the resulting layer.

Select the background with any tool (Pen, Lasso). For a better understanding of how to select and cut out an object, be sure to. The information contained in it will allow you to easily separate the hero from the background, and I will not delay the lesson.

So, let's select the background.

Then click SHIFT+F5 and choose a color.

Click everywhere OK and deselect ( CTRL+D).

Increasing the contrast and clarity of the image

To increase the contrast, use an adjustment layer "Levels".

In the layer settings window, drag the outer sliders towards the middle, achieving the desired effect. You can also play with the middle slider.

We will increase the clarity of the image using a filter "Colour contrast".

Again, create a fingerprint of all layers, create a copy of this layer and apply a filter. We configure it so that the main details appear and click OK.

Change the blending mode to "Overlap", then create a black mask for this layer (see above), take the same brush and go over key areas of the image.

All that remains is to crop and tint the photo.

Choosing a tool "Frame" and cut off unnecessary parts. When finished, click OK.

Today we will look at one of the most interesting topics in photo processing with Photoshop - photo retouching. Retouching is generally a very exciting activity. It’s damn interesting and pleasant when a seemingly completely worthless, spoiled photograph turns out to be something real and tangible, when a past era, people and destinies are revealed.

Just recently, one of my friends asked me to restore an old family photograph he had found from almost a century ago. Her condition, you understand, was very far from perfect. Once again we have to be convinced of the advantage of digital over film, at least in terms of the safety of photographic materials...

So let's start p photo retouching. The first thing we need to do is scan our “old lady”. As a rule, almost all old photographs have “scars” on their body - fractures, missing fragments (for example, lost corners when torn out of albums), simply fading and much more. This work had all of the above “advantages”. The photo was scanned at a resolution of 600 dpi. In principle, for such work when printing, 300 dpi is quite enough, but for retouching it is desirable to have a higher resolution to reduce distortion. The output file is TIFF format and highly preferably 12 or 16 bit. The contrast during scanning needs to be reduced, then, during photo processing, we will restore it. It is advisable to scan in RGB mode, even if the photo is black and white. Then select from the three channels the one with the least damage, removing the rest. As a general rule, the noisiest channel is usually blue. This way we get the original monochrome image. Since the file size of a monochrome photo is significantly smaller, this significantly speeds up its processing. I highlight two methods for approaching retouching complex photographs.

First, we perform the simplest operations, gradually moving on to the most problematic areas. At the same time (especially if you do this rarely, from time to time), you get better at simple operations, approaching complex areas with extensive experience. And as simple retouching progresses, the photograph begins to improve before our eyes, which greatly inspires further work. Or we start with the most difficult (more suitable for very experienced users), leaving the little things “for later”.

Let's focus on the first option p photo retouching. Let's try to compose for ourselves some rough plan retouching work so as not to run around the photo from corner to corner looking for defects. Since there is nowhere to frame our work further, it is necessary to restore the edges of our canvas, eliminate creases and large scratches, try to restore the “severed” leg of a man, retouch the woman’s face (the most difficult thing), clean up the remaining little things, general exposure correction and final toning are also necessary.

Of course, to restore the edges of the canvas, you can use different photo processing methods. In this case I did the following. As you remember, we scanned the photo with very low contrast, now this will be very useful. The inner cover of the scanner usually has a black backing. If this is not the case, then cover the photo with a black sheet of paper and, if possible, press it more tightly against the glass to smooth out the creases.
Now the black level of your work when scanning will correspond exactly to the scanner substrate, as can be seen in the photo above. Make a copy of the layer (Ctrl+J), then right-click (pen) select Color Range (color range) and select our black outline where there was no photo. At the same time, use the Fuzziness slider to determine the selection range. Then, selecting a drawing tool, for example a brush, using the B key, pressing the Alt key, use an eyedropper to select the tone of the drawing tool in the picture itself. First, select a tone in the floor area (lighter) and paint it over the selected black area opposite the floor. Then select a medium tone for the rest of the edge (darker) and paint over the rest of the selected black area. Why is such complexity needed - for the correct operation of our miracle tool Patch (patch).

Select a tool with the J key. This function contains three tools: Patch, Healing Brush and Replace Color, which can be switched with the Shift+J keys. What's so good about this photo editing tool? It allows you to replace the texture of a selected area while maintaining its brightness and color components. I will show this using the example of an enlarged fragment of the floor near a woman’s leg.
Let us select with a pen the area that we are going to “treat”; this will be the edge of the photograph, which we have painted over with a tone taken as a sample from the border area of ​​the picture. The main thing is to take your time, following the rule - less is more. Since we need to restore the texture of the floor, we move the selected area with a pen to the area from which we will take a sample of the texture, observing the alignment of the sample in relation to the selected area (in this case, along the gap between the boards). After alignment, raise the pen (release the left mouse button). The result is amazing - no traces of stitching of fragments. We process the entire area in a similar way. It should be added that the tool has several operating modes. Source (source) - in this mode we select the area that we are treating. Destination (target) - in this mode we select the area to be treated (texture sample). When the Transparency checkbox is selected, the texture sample affects the transparency of the replaced fragment (used quite rarely). I consider the Source mode to be the most optimal and convenient.

The photo processing result shown below was obtained in eight steps. If we had not aligned our missing edge of the photo with previous operations of highlighting and shading in tone with the photo itself, then the brightness of the replaced fragment would change from basic to black. That is, our photo would have a blurry black border, which is unacceptable. The more accurately you match the tone on the missing edges, the better the end result will be. To return to some of the “fateful” stages of retouching, I strongly recommend creating a Snapshot of these stages. After this, you can safely clear the History palette to free up RAM if you don’t have enough.

We work in a similar way with the entire edge. The work is painstaking, but the result is worth it! Creases and large scratches can be removed in the same way, using the Patch and Stamp tool. Small dots and scratches can be removed more easily and quickly using the Healing Brush tool. The operation of the tool is absolutely similar to the previous one and is very similar to the operation of the Stamp tool, which is familiar to you. The only difference is that the Healing Brush takes only the texture from the sample, and the brightness and color from the “repaired” area. Some features of its use should be taken into account. The Patch and Healing Brush tools have some blurring of the boundaries relative to the selection outline, so they cannot be used at the boundaries of sharp brightness transitions - the result of processing the photo will not be very successful.
Thus, attempts to remove lesions near a woman’s head “on the forehead” using Patch lead to blurring of the boundaries and disruption of the uniformity of tone of the replaced fragment. To prevent similar results when processing photographs in problem areas of sharp tonal transitions, you can first use the Stamp tool with adjustable edge hardness (for more precise overlay). It is used to separate (expand) transition boundaries if the fragment being replaced is large enough. If the fragment is small, then you can simply paint over it with the Stamp tool, and then apply Patch to the same place for alignment.

As you can see, the result is p photo retouching completely different. If you clearly understand the operating principle of these tools, then success is guaranteed!
The next stage of photo processing is to “make” the man’s missing leg (oh, if only it were possible in real life...). Before this important operation, you need to straighten the background in place of the missing leg, then it will be more difficult to do. We also do this with the Patch tool. Now we select his right leg almost to the knee (slightly higher than the missing part and with an allowance around the perimeter). Next, execute the Feather command with a radius of approximately 10 pixels. Copy Ctrl+C and paste on a new layer Ctrl+V. Hold down the Ctrl key (or, more conveniently, the bottom button of our wonderful Wacom pen) and drag the new leg into place, flipping it horizontally so that it becomes the left one! Next, using levels (but not the transparency of the layer), we adjust the brightness and contrast of the leg so that the transition point becomes invisible. It turned out like this.
Next, using an eraser, with a transparency of 50%, and light movements of the pen, we erase our allowance along the contour of the new leg to the background and in the places of the folds on the trousers. You can feel like a wizard.
Now we take on the most difficult and delicate task in photograph processing - restoration of a woman’s face. Here everything is somewhat more complicated, but not hopeless. The most difficult thing is to restore the eyes and nose area. We will then make the forehead using the usual tools. We can try to “just” draw the eyes, but I’m clearly not much of an artist, so we won’t even try. You can only complete small details, but no more. All that remains is to borrow eyes elsewhere, no matter how blasphemous it may sound.
Having carefully studied all the characters in the photo, I found that her daughter’s eyes are, in principle, very similar. This means that our daughter will be a “donor”. Turn on the lasso with the L key, select the area of ​​​​the eyes and nose on the daughter’s face (again with a small allowance), make a feather of about 10 px, copy it, paste it onto a new layer and drag the fragment to a new place. First you need to compare the distance between the eyes with the original. Naturally, in a child it is somewhat less. Therefore, we transform the fragment to the right size. For accuracy, turn on the grid (Ctrl+«). Then we put our eyes back in place.
All that remains is to lightly work with the eraser on the eyebrows and the eyes can be considered finished. The most seemingly complex operation in photograph processing was quite easy for us. Naturally, if there is no “donor” in the original photo, you can use another suitable photograph. Everything is at the mercy of your imagination, the main thing is not to give in to difficulties. Then we proceed according to the old scenario: “no noise, no dust...”, that is, we eliminate the remaining small, insignificant defects.

After we have eliminated all (or almost all) defects in the image, we need to bring it into good view: raise contrast, tint.
First, let's normalize its histogram using the Levels adjustment layer. In order to perform toning (if necessary), the image must be converted to RGB mode. After this, we apply toning in the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer. The transparency of this layer can be varied by changing the strength of the toning. We will address the issue of toning in more detail in one of the next issues of the magazine.

The result you see below took approximately two hours of work time. I’ll say right away that my friend was very pleased with the result!.. and brought a bunch of old photographs.
In conclusion, I want to say: treat the features of the past as carefully as possible. Try, if possible, to bring less new things into old photographs, otherwise you will end up with a “remake”. We have now deliberately considered quite difficult situation, when it was necessary to restore the missing elements. But, by doing so, we only once again explored the capabilities of Photoshop tools in photo processing. Before taking on such work, especially if you are not doing it for yourself, be sure to discuss with the customer possible consequences such a deep restoration. Sometimes it is better to leave some moments as is, rather than distort or add on your own - after all, this is history!

Today we will learn how to restore old, shabby photographs in Photoshop. There are many different examples on the Internet on how to do this. I want to bring to your attention the most simple and understandable one, as it seems to me. Of course, it is quite labor-intensive and will take some time, but it is ideal for beginners in Photoshop. You don’t need a bunch of tools, different masks and layer blending modes that get confused in your head. All you need is the Stamp tool and your patience. In addition, during this lesson, beginners will become friends with this wonderful tool and will subsequently use it in their work.

Let's start studying the lesson.

It’s been lying around in the home archive for a long time old photo, it's time to do it.

First of all, go to the Image tab – Mode – RGB. If the mode is different, then check the RGB box.

Remove the lock from the layer. Left-click on the lock twice and select OK in the pop-up window.

To be on the safe side, copy the layer. Then we stand on the copy and increase the view. We start working from the edges of the photo to practice on them.

Take the Stamp tool and check the settings. Since we are working in the very corner, don’t be afraid to set the opacity and pressure to maximum. We will stamp with a round brush; first select its diameter. Activate the Stamp tool, hold down the Alt key, and a window appears on the screen like in a sight. We place it on the area that we want to copy, click the mouse. Then release the Alt key, the sight disappears and move the circle to the place that we want to paint, click the mouse. We see how a circle appeared on the damaged area. So let's practice on the corners. The more often we use the Alt key, the more carefully the desired area will be painted over.

After practicing on the corners, we move to another area, but don’t touch the face yet. Since the strip that needs to be masked is small, we change the size of the brush - reduce the diameter. And again we aim at the area that we want to copy, hold down the Alt key, click the mouse, release the key, go to the area that needs to be painted over, click the mouse.

Periodically we reduce the viewing and look at what we get.

To compare, turn off the peephole on the copy layer we are working on. You can immediately see what is painted over and where.

In places around the eye you need to greatly enlarge the image. Since it’s already difficult to do this with the engine, we click on the right triangle. With its help we gradually enlarge the image.

We select targets for the sight both at the top of the seam and at the bottom of the seam. In such areas, it is especially important not to rush and take aim often and take areas for cloning.

When we clone the pupil, we reduce the hardness of the brush.

When cloning lips, we take a sample from the lips.

When cloning a pupil, samples can and should be taken from different sides of the pupil.

Try to aim not too close to the area that needs to be painted, so that you don’t get too much.

When we clone the stripes on a suit, we move from different sides to the scratch. Let's clone from below, then go to the top and clone from above. Then we go to the bottom again and paint the area in the same way. To get a transition from a white stripe to a black background, try to take aim at the area that is in the middle and includes both white and black stripes. Adjust this with the diameter of the brush, it can be changed more often.

The final touch is to paint over the white stripe, just to paint it over.

All the same, no matter how you paint the background, it will not be even. Therefore, we are taking other measures. Using the Straight Lasso Tool, select the baby’s figure.

Right-click inside the selection and select Feather.

The shading radius is assumed to be small. Since the photo is old, we don’t need very clear boundaries.

Copy the selection to a new layer. For this we use the Ctrl+J keys.

Create a new layer by clicking on the second icon from the right in the layers panel and place it under the layer with the selected baby figure. On the two lower layers we extinguish the eyes.

Next we go - Perform Filling. In order to have a place to take a color sample from with a pipette, let’s make the layer on which we worked with the Stamp visible (turn on the eye on it by clicking on it). Let's make sure we're on a transparent layer.

Now we use the Eyedropper tool to fill the layer with color.

We see that the background has become monochromatic. To diversify it a little, let's make it a little structural. We apply the Unlimited-2 filter, download it from here.

In the filter window, select the canvas.

Apply the Sharpening filter to the baby's image. Let's check that we are standing on the layer with the baby.

We extinguish the eyes on the two lower layers and on the Layers tab, select – Merge Visible.

After that, I saved the file in JPEG format and made a frame from the lesson How to make a frame with torn edges. I instructed the program to slightly correct the image. On the Image tab, I selected Auto Tone and Auto Contrast.

Now you can compare the results.

With this method, beginners can easily take on the restoration of old photographs. As you can see, this method is very clear, the main thing is patience. We will succeed!