This knot, which has two non-tightening loops, is used instead of a gazebo to lift a person to a height, to raise or lower a person who has lost consciousness, and in other cases. When tying a knot, one of the loops is made almost half the size of the other. A person sits in one loop, the second loop clasps his torso under the arms. This allows him, having risen to a height, to work with both hands. In maritime practice, there are several ways to tie a double bower knot. Let's explain the simplest one. The knot is tied with a rope folded in half. After inserting the running end into the small loop of the knot, you need to pull it out a little and, wrapping it around the large loop, move it to the top of the knot. Holding the main part of the cable with one hand, pull down the right side of the large double loop with the other hand. After this, the knot will be tightened and ready for use.

Simple conductor (oak loop)

This is the simplest loop of all existing non-tightening loops. It is knitted with a simple knot at the end of a cable folded in half. The oak loop is strong and safe, but it greatly weakens the cable by bending it. Unlike the oak knot, it can be applied to synthetic rope. Its only drawback is that it is very tight and very difficult to untie. forms a fixed loop at the end of the rope. In tourism practice, it is used to secure a cable with a carabiner. It is not recommended to use it in the middle of the rope due to significant weakening at the location of the knot and the great difficulty of untying it after applying a load. There are two known methods of knitting: with a loop and with one end. The knot reduces the average strength of a dry rope by 78.3 - 80.75%; when wet - by 75.9 - 78.35%; when frozen by - 52.2 - 57.3%. Dangerous mistakes: very loosely tightened; very tight; very long free end.

Austrian conductor

(bergshaft, butterfly, alpine bloodworm, bee, riding loop) - a knot that forms a fixed loop in the middle of the rope. Used as an intermediate support point or hitch, support for blocks. Using this knot you can easily tie up a damaged section of rope. It is very reliable and allows the application of load at an angle to the main direction of force. Has two knitting methods. Dangerous mistakes: too loose, too tight, big loop.

Grasping (Prusik on the main rope)

It is tied with a cord with a diameter of 6 - 7 mm around 9 - 14 mm of the main rope. As it rises or descends, it moves with its hand. In the event of a fall, the prusik is tightened on the safety rope and protects it from falling. Triggers under loads in any direction. In addition to belaying, the Prusik can also be used directly when climbing a rope. Does not work well on wet and icy support. Reduces the average strength of the rope in the range of 46.9 - 26.55 (with a dry rope - 69.1 - 73.5%; with a wet rope - 67.3 - 70.4%; with a frozen rope - 53.1 - 54.3%). Dangerous mistakes: the second turn goes in the opposite direction relative to the first; the ends of the turns of the auxiliary rope do not extend from the middle of the knot; knitted from a rope of a larger diameter than the diameter of the supporting one.

Bachmann knot

Knotted combination of a cord with a carabiner on the main rope. The advantage over the Prusik is that it is more in a simple way movement along the support. To do this, simply insert your thumb into the carabiner. At the same time, it is possible to move the grabber along the rope or hold on to the rung of a rope ladder. In case of failure, the Bachmann knot protects against falling. Knitted on single and double rope.

The reliability of grasping a knot on a pull depends on the number of its wraps on the rope. Usually limited to 4 revolutions.

Bachmann knot with carabiner stop insert. The insert significantly increases the grip of the knot on the rope.

The insert carabiner is installed so that there are at least two turns of the grasping loop at the top of the Bachman carabiner.

Garda knot

(Guard loop) - auxiliary, support unit. Performed using two climbing carabiners. An excellent tool for insurance. Practically irreplaceable when transporting a victim. Easy to knit. Reliable on wet and clay ropes.

UIAA

(Baumgartner) - a knot officially approved in 1971 by a decision of the International Mountaineering Union. Used for dynamic belaying using a climbing carabiner. Only used on soft, elastic rope. When placing turns of cable into the carabiner, the direction of the possible jerk is strictly taken into account.

A double bowline is a knot consisting of two loose loops that can be tied either at the end of the rope or in its middle.

The double bowline is even more reliable than the classic one, but also more difficult to knit.

The double bowline has another name - the double bower knot. Occasionally, I have also heard how this knot is called a counter bowline, apparently because of the way it is knitted with the running end of the rope.

However, you should distinguish a double bowline from a double rope bowline. The second is an ordinary bowline, which is knitted not with the running one, but with the double end of the rope.

Application of a node

Due to its simplicity and reliability, the double bowline is widely used in mountaineering, rock climbing, speleology and maritime affairs. It does not have a strictly limited purpose, and it can be used in all cases where a loop is required that does not tighten under heavy load.

For example, it can be used to attach a safety rope to a system (arbor) worn by a person.

In some situations, you can use a bowline to make a tie around the waist, or insert a leg into each loop and hold on to the root end with your hands, or pass one loop behind your back and the second under your buttocks. In this way, a person can be lifted or lowered, for example, from a ship onto a boat.

On the left - tying using a double bowline, on the right - using a "bunny ears" knot.

The double bowline is a great option for tying a rope to a support. If the support is open, then you can tie it in any way, but if it is closed, then you can tie the rope only by tying a knot with one running end.

If there are two unreliable supports, then using this knot you can secure the rope to two supports at once, for example, by throwing one loop on one support and the other on the other (the so-called blocking with a fixed load direction). Or in this situation, make a knot with loops of different sizes, throw the larger one onto both supports, and connect its middle with a carabiner to the smaller loop (the so-called blocking with a compensation loop).

You can use this knot to tie two ropes of different diameters, although for these purposes it will still be easier to use a simple bowline or the same Austrian guide.

Properties of a double bowline

The double bowline is one of the most reliable knots. That is why at rock climbing competitions, along with the figure eight, it is allowed to tie the system to the safety rope with this knot.

The efficiency of the double bowline is 53%, which is slightly more than the regular version (52%). We have already talked about what node efficiency is in a separate article.

It must be taken into account that in different sources The efficiency values ​​of different nodes may vary significantly. This may be due to differences in the materials from which the tested ropes were composed and other factors. Therefore, to compare the effectiveness of two or more nodes, it is necessary to look at data from one study, and not from different ones.

Compared to a regular bowline, a double bowline can do without a control unit, but only in cases where both loops are loaded equally.

Compared to the double eight and the hare's ear knot, the double bowline is easier to untie after heavy loads on the rope. This determines its frequent use as a highly loaded unit.

If we compare the double bowline with the Austrian guide (which is often confused with the Alpine butterfly), then the first has two loops, which makes it more reliable, since the fraying is slower and the load on each of the loops is reduced. In addition, the double bowline is easier to untie after a heavy load.

The video shows how easily a double bowline can be untied after loading:

But, despite its advantages, the double bowline also has a number of disadvantages. To knit it, you need a significant amount of rope compared to the amount of rope for knitting the same Austrian conductor, and without a control knot, the same load must be applied to the loops, otherwise the loops will crawl.

How to knit a double bowline

A double bowline can be knitted in different ways. I will give a few of them.

First way:

1. A regular bowline is knitted as described in this article, only the running end of the rope is left with a reserve so that it is enough for the second loop.
2. The running end of the rope is led along itself, but in the opposite direction until the second loop is formed.
3. The running end is passed into the knot along itself, but in the opposite direction - a double bowline is obtained.

This method is good when the knot needs to be secured to a closed support. Below is a diagram of knitting a knot in this way:

The second way to knit a double bowline:

1. The middle of the rope (this does not have to be exactly the middle; this means that the knot is knitted anywhere, but not at the edges) is folded in half.
2. A simple knot is tied with a double rope. To do this, a peg is made with the double end of the rope clockwise (the running end is on top of the main end). The running end of the double rope is passed into the peg from bottom to top.
3. From the loop of the running end of the double rope, a loop (or rather, two loops, since the rope is double) is pulled out simple node. At the same time, the running end of the double rope is pulled in the opposite direction.
4. The resulting loop is stretched so that the running end of the double rope (which itself represents a loop) slides along the main one until a double bowline is formed.

The video below shows how to properly tie a knot this way:

You can also tie a double bowline in other ways, but here I have given two of the simplest and most common ones, which can be used in almost any situation where you need to tie this knot.

The double bowline is simple and reliable. This is one of the knots that I would recommend to remember and use. I myself often tie this knot when working with rope, both for attaching to a support and for tying the rope to a harness. It is surprising that many climbers still use a figure eight instead to tie themselves to the rope, because after the strong jerks that often occur during falls, it is much more difficult to untie than a double bowline.

Living most of the year on KSS, communicating with visiting climbers who want to hike alpine routes on Sokol, I regularly hear the same phrase: To practice mountaineering, it’s enough to know “X+1” maritime knots, if you know and be able to use them with your eyes closed.

Where X varies from 4 to 7. I will add that these phrases are usually spoken by quite experienced, one might say, distinguished people, to whom beginners and just beginning climbers listen. They make unconscious mistakes; in fact, they automatically use many more nodes. But beginners perceive the number of nodes they indicate as a guide and take it into service. Without pretending to be the ultimate truth, I decided to write a short essay in which I give examples of the use of knots during ascent (very roughly according to the list). Actually, a small comment was written on the article (request to critics, please try to master everything written, and then press the buttons. Aktush)

Let's look at the order of actions of the ligament going on the route:

One participant carries a backpack with equipment and snacks. The second participant carries the ropes. The ropes are somehow collected into a conveniently portable object, a ring, a “backpack”. Used to secure ropes from spreading "marker" node (1). They can also be used to tie telescopic poles or ice axes, if you need to knit something like a stretcher. The third one is also carrying something. Well, at least bivouac equipment and water.

The tactics are: The first one climbs, the second one also climbs, the third honestly humiliates. The first two are tied to a rope. The safest and most convenient for this are: "Double bowline"(2) and "Flemish Loop"(3, we call her "eight"). The efficiency of both is almost the same, but the first knot is easier to untie after removing the load.

Both do not require a control knot, but if the edge of the rope protrudes from the knot a little more than 10 diameters, you can not tie the knot, but tie a control knot, "weaving"(4) or "half-grapevine"(5). Both nodes are used in a variety of cases.

Before the start, the leader hung equipment, bookmarks, friends, hooks, and local loops on the shelves of the gazebo. There weren’t enough ready-made loops, but I have a cord with a diameter of 7.0-8.0 of sufficient length to make additional local loops. Which node is most suitable for this case: "Counter Flemish"(6, eight) or "grapevine"(7)?. The efficiency is the same, but "grapevine"(7) takes up less space. Less space— clings less, which means it’s preferable "grapevine"(7). There is a large hexa type bookmark with a damaged sling, we pull out the damaged sling, but there is no other sling. How can we get out of this situation? We replace the damaged sling with a cord of diameter 7.0-8.0 or the main rope (if the hole in the hex allows). Which node? "Grapevine"(7). Because the knot can be knitted so that after tightening it is located in the body of the hexa.

We were lucky, we took with us a lot of flat tapes for organizing extensions, for blocking stations and other needs. We can use such a tape to replace a damaged one. Which node? Only .

We have finally started. While climbing in a particular place, it suddenly became clear that we did not have a suitable element of insurance. The bookmarks are too small and the friends are too big. The hooks fall through. You can ignore the lack of insurance, console yourself with the phrase “I’m happy” and move on. Not far from the place where you can arrange insurance. But grief doesn’t care about your confidence in your happiness, and as a result, you fly to great depths.

You can avoid troubles by using the same turnip cord with a diameter of 7.0-8.0. We take a cord about one and a half meters long and tie a knot on one side "simple"(9), leaving 15 cm free, and on the other side a knot "Flemish Loop"(3). The result was a primitive bookmark, with a head 1.25-1.3 times larger than the diameter of the cord. If the gap is wider, then to increase the size of the head we knit, "half grapevine" or even "triple half grapevine" (Barrel), on the other side of the cord it’s still the same "Flemish Loop". If this is not enough, you can tie it up. "Monkey Fist"(10), sometimes it is called a “ball”, but this is not entirely correct). Anyway, this is not enough, then we can fold the rope in half and tie a knot at both ends "simple"(9), in fact, this is no longer “simple”, but "Oak"(eleven). Or we knit with both ends "half grapevine". The knot turns out to be large and will withstand a heavy load (knitting in this version is quite difficult), but the loop is rather weak. It needs to be strengthened. How to strengthen? Knot "Double Flemish Loop"(12) serves precisely this purpose. You will object. How can you hold on to a minuscule with one hand and tie any of the things listed with the other? Holding onto a meager amount, it is almost impossible to do this. So think one and a half steps ahead!

We are insured. We climb further, along the way there are trees and stumps (the tree was cut down by a rockfall), on which we organize belay. With trees it’s clear, we throw a local loop with a “yoke” and then fasten a carabiner or even a quickdraw into the double loop. On a hemp such a trick will be unsafe. You need to use some kind of holding technique. Either make a “rocker arm” with additional turns (coverages), or place a knot on the stump "stirrup"(13), or "with a reef through a knot"(14, but in this case its application is worse than the previous two). Sometimes you have to get really sophisticated when you need to secure the rope (tape) firmly at the base of the hemp: a knot "Constrictor"(15). You don’t have to use it, but it knits up quickly and then doesn’t dangle on the hemp. Finally, the leader reached the station and here, after some suffering, he manages to create a masterpiece. The masterpiece is crowned with a knot that collects loads from the belay points. Which node? "Compensation loop"(16)! But this knot works well at two points, worse at three, and not at all at four. The leader, after some deliberation, decided to do without "compensatory"(16). By connecting all the points with one common loop with a common central node. Node either "Oak"(11), or "Flemish Loop"(3). Moreover, in the first option it is easier to adjust the “uniformity of loads”. Just don’t forget to insert carabiners into the knots so that they can be easily untied later. Nodes are suitable for other station options "Flemish Loop" (3) "double Flemish loop" (12), "double bowline" (2).

So, the station is made, the insurance is organized. The leader insures the bottom with a knot UIAA(17). Carabiner with a knot in the collecting carbine of the station. Insurance with UIAA It’s not annoying, the knot charges quickly and it’s convenient to work with, you can always secure the lower one, or give the rope back. The second participant climbs with the collection of equipment installed by the leader and at the same time lays a fixed rope for the third. There are options here, but let's consider this case. The second, in order to remove unnecessary dangerous friction on the railing, needs to secure the railing rope to some tree in the middle. Let's take into account that there are few local loops, they will be needed on the next rope, and there are not enough carabiners. A single knot comes to the rescue "bowline"(18). It cannot be used without control knots; the controls will be made from the same rope.

Our third participant is not a very good climber, but a great lover of adventure. He decided to joke from the very beginning. In order not to spend money on himself, he ties the safety loop from the jumar to the gazebo or with a knot "Flemish Loop"(3), or "double bowline"(2), its lanyard loop is also tied either with a knot "Flemish Loop"(3), or "double bowline". By the way, the jumar itself can also be tied if there are not enough carbines. Due to the lack of a second jumar (they decided not to take the second one, because the route has one short vertical section, and the rest are positive), he decided to use some kind of grasping knot. The node is of little use for these purposes; most likely, he will use either the node "Bachmana"(19), or by a knot "Austrian Grasper"(20), it all depends on the weather and the icing of the rope.

And in this way they climbed several more ropes. Then they changed tactics. All three climbed. To do this, they all needed to be tied to a rope or a knot. "Flemish Loop"(3) either "double bowline"(2). The average one was content with two "Flemish loops" (3), "two bowlines"(2) the arbors did not fit side by side in the loop for tying. Everything became more interesting, and so much so that at some point the last participant received a serious injury - he could not climb on his own. In order to pull him to the station, it was necessary to organize a pulley. Working with two people on a chain hoist is a pleasure compared to working with one person.

The chain hoist had a quality ratio of 3 to 1. The gripping units used in the construction of the chain hoist were: knot "French Grasping"(21, aka autoblock) below and "three-turn prusik"(22) near the top roller. They lifted the victim, examined him, felt him, and realized that he couldn’t get down on his own. The victim must be escorted down. During the descent, one local loop was used for the accompanying person and one for the victim, both were simultaneously fastened into a safety device, for example, into a figure eight. The loops were made from ready-stitched ones, and to adjust the size of the local loops, a knot was used "Oak"(eleven). Descent along two ropes with the victim secured "French grasper"(21, aka autoblock). The last participant went down, leaving at the station a descent loop made from a piece of rope. The load was distributed to two points of the tested descent station using a node "double bowline"(2), transformed from "oak"(eleven). Each of the branches of the descent station was tied to the hooks using a knot "half-grepvine" (5).

The descent station was tested using the combined weight of the attendant and the victim. In this case, the launching station was secured from the collecting carbine of the main station, which also included the launching station. Belay was provided by the main rope with knots "stirrup"(13). The last participant climbed down two ropes, securing himself "autoblock"(21). Both rappel ropes were tied "grapevine"(7). If no accompaniment was required, one could use "oak"(eleven). In principle, you can use "oak"(11), since it floats at 900 kg, and such a load is difficult to develop during a careful descent. But in this case it’s possible to mess up, that’s why we chose "grapevine" (7).

Perhaps somewhere you will have to extend the rope with a thinner 8.0 mm cord to the top 10.0 mm. Let's apply the node "bramshkotovy"(23), with control nodules. To avoid slipping off the rope when descending, a knot was used "eight"(24), although one could use "half-grepvine" or "triple half-grepwein" (27).

Knot "Stirrup"(13) in addition to the indicated options, it is used for blocking reliable points for securing stations (points that can withstand loads of up to 1000 kg), for blocking two opposed bookmarks, for arranging anti-tip stations, and also as a real stirrup for the foot in an improvised pedal.

Knot "micropolyspast"(24) it is very desirable to know, it is performed with a 7.0-8.0 mm cord 5-6 meters long. It requires large carabiners. We can use it when stretching stations to ensure anti-tipping, when extending ropes, and other rescue operations.

Knot "Austrian guide"(25) - for tying out a broken place on a rope, like a regular guide, working in all directions, like a middle knot.

Tying ropes Austrian guide(26) with safety net, or "counter Flemish"(6), or "grapevine" (7).
It is imperative to know the locking (stopping for a long time) of the main safety devices and assembly UIAA "reef" knots (26).

I described the main actions of the average climber going to the ascent as a leader. Try to replace the knots used in this staged ascent with knots from Alexey M’s list, without losing time and reliability. The time on the mountain parameter is a general safety parameter.
I do not encourage anyone to learn all the nodes given above. I know them, I use them, I teach them to those people who come to schools to use them.

Special thanks for your help in writing Mikhailova’s article “Shurochka”.

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(knot proposed by E.B. Emelyanov)

Safety systems produced by industry in our country should not be secured with a carabiner for the reason that in the event of a jerk in the resulting triangle of forces, the load on the carabiner may be applied perpendicular to its long axis, and here the strength of the carabiner will be insufficient. The parts of the safety system are connected using a double bowline knot. This node was proposed by E.B Emelyanov.

A double bowline is knitted from a 5-meter piece of the main rope, preferably soft, or half rope. A tape with a width of at least 20 mm also works well. The knot is characterized by the fact that it has two lanyard loops: one is tied at the end of the rope that is included in the loops of the chest harness, and the second, longer one, is tied at the end that connects the loops of the gazebo. The knot is convenient in that it allows, without losing the lanyard on a short loop, to unravel the lower part of the gazebo and even remove it. This is done like this: having slightly loosened the double bowline knot, you need to stretch a longer lanyard loop through it so that the conductor knot at the end of the lanyard comes close to the double bowline, then tighten the knot again, and you can remove the gazebo. This technique is used when it is necessary to change clothes or take off insulated clothes. trousers, etc.

For the same purposes, a counter knot tied at one end of the rope, a conductor and a figure eight are acceptable. A simple bowline requires fixation with a control knot, because it tends to unravel.

Double bowline

(double gazebo knot)

This knot, which has two non-tightening loops, is used instead of a gazebo to lift a person to a height or to ensure the safety of a person when working at height and in other cases.

When tying a knot, one of the loops is made almost half the size of the other. A person sits in one loop, the second loop clasps his torso under the arms. This allows him, having risen to a height, to work with both hands.

A double bowline (double bower knot) can be used as part of a rope-tied belay system. In this case, both loops are made identical.

In practice, there are several ways to tie a double bowline. I propose the simplest of them. The knot is tied with a rope folded in half. After inserting the running end (in the form of a loop) into the small loop of the knot, this end needs to be pulled out a little and, wrapped around the large loop, placed in the upper part of the knot. Holding the root of the rope with one hand, pull down the right side of the large double loop with the other hand. After this, the knot will be tightened and ready for use.

(see Fig. 16)

Spanish arbor knot

(boatswain's knot)

It may not be studied when preparing tourists.

A foot is inserted into each of the two non-tightening loops of the Spanish gazebo knot, and the hands are held onto the rope. This unit is convenient to use during rescue operations when lifting or lowering is necessary

Of all the bowline knots known to mankind, it is one of the most reliable. It is also called arbor, universal or king of all knots. Having heard one of these formulations, you can be sure that we are talking about him. Today we will figure out how to knit bowline knots.

Features and benefits of the node

1. The noose is never tightened tightly.
2. The knot does not slip along the cable.
3. Such a loop will never untie itself, but it is easy to untie by hand.
4. When connecting two cables using a gazebo knot, a reliable connection can be achieved.

How to make a bowline knot

The diagram shows how to knit bowline knots. Thanks to this method, it is possible to make the most reliable connection. Therefore, it is used in connecting ropes and cables for transporting goods, in the marine industry and is popular among tourists.

How to tie a bowline knot?

Many people are interested in: “How to knit bowline knots?” Most of our readers do not even suspect that making such a loop is much easier than it seems.

1. To begin, make a loop with a crossing in the center.
2. After this, grab the intersection of the ropes with the fingers of your right hand.
3. Turn the palm with the loop downwards away from you.
4. Thread the running end of the rope into the small hole in the center, located above the large loop.
5. We pull the running end over the loop, pass the rope from behind and insert it into the hole of the small loop.
6. The free part of the thread should be in a position parallel to itself in the loop.

Important! To make the knot more reliable, sometimes another safety loop is formed above it.

Knowing how to tie bowline knots and applying this knowledge in practice, do not forget that an incorrectly formed knot can stretch or come undone at any time. Therefore, carefully monitor the progress of the mating. Remember that the more practice you have, the better and faster you will be able to create a strong and reliable connection called the double bowline knot.

Steps to tie a knot around the waist

Every tourist should know how to tie a bowline knot. Therefore, use the instructions if you have to go hiking.

1. Take the root end of the rope in your left hand.
2. Wrap your right hand around the running part of the rope around its axis.
3. Stepping back about 10 cm from the edge, pinch the right, running end of the rope with your hand.
4. Stretch your left hand with the rope forward in front of you.
5. Using your right hand with the running end of the rope clamped in it, wrap the stretched root end from top to bottom towards you and up from you. Make sure that the loop does not wrap around the hand and does not completely capture it, otherwise the knot will be tied incorrectly.
6. Place the running end of the rope around the taut root end to the left, then grab it with the fingers of your right hand.
7. Pull the right wrist out of the loop, while at the same time inserting the running end of the rope into the base of the small loop.
8. Holding the running end with your right hand, pull the main end of the rope with your left to tighten and secure the loop.

The design of the knot consists of two non-tightening loops. Using such a scheme allows the climber to sit in one loop, while the second one covers the person’s torso under the arms. It is easy to climb rocks, cross obstacles using a rope for belaying, and simply work at heights using a structure such as a bowline (knot). The diagram clearly illustrates the sequence of knitting a compound.

Such a knot is knitted on a rope or cable folded in half.

How to tighten the loop?

Inserting the running end of the rope into the small loop of the knot, pull it out and, wrapping it around the large loop, place it in the upper part of the knot. Holding the main part of the cable with one hand, pull the right side of the large double loop with the other. Having done this manipulation, you can tighten the loop to the required level.

Disadvantages of a design based on a bowline knot

The disadvantages are manifested in the need for additional fastening of the nodal connection. It is noted that sometimes a connection controlled by a node is capable of unraveling. Such cases were noted when the structure was knitted on a slippery line or the permissible load was exceeded.

Fishermen, sailors and tourists actively use a variety of knots. The gazebo (bowline) knot has earned particular popularity because of its strength and reliability. Using this design, you can be confident in the safety of your insurance.