Due to the nature of my work, I have to deal with turning and milling of ferrous and non-ferrous metals. It cannot be said that this happens in industrial scale. More likely within the framework of an "experimental" laboratory, but this does not reduce the role of the working functionality of my lathe. The machine is subject to fairly stringent requirements in terms of reliability, dimensions of the workpiece and the weight of the machine. The machine must have a chuck of 80mm, a distance between centers of 300mm-350mm, and a weight of no more than 45kg. Like many users of tabletop screw-cutting lathes, I was faced with the choice of one or another model that can be found on our market.
Machines presented at Russian market can be divided into several groups - domestic machines, foreign machines from the 30-40s (USA or Germany), outdated machines from socialist countries and machines from China. I forgot to add lathes from the German company Proxon. Exorbitant prices that in no way correlate with the machines themselves. These machines can be recommended to those who “need checkers, not travel.” Only my statements do not apply to drills from this company.
Domestic machines can be produced both nowadays and be new with a full working set, and “old”, the date of birth of which was the 50-70s of the last century. I’ll talk about modern small-sized domestic lathes a little lower, and about the “oldies” now. Usually “oldies” are sold at a low price, but generally the kit may lack gears, tailstocks, etc. The frame may wear out. The appearance is repulsive. Peeling paint, rusty surfaces. All this bears the stamp of wretchedness. In this case, the machines can be in working order. Talk about what machines were made with a large margin of safety back then is idle talk. If you are tied to a specific case, then instead of buying and working, you will restore the machine and it is not a fact that you will be able to make it as functional as a modern Chinese tabletop lathe. You can work and do something on a machine, but you will agree, it is more pleasant to work on a clean and tidy machine, and not on a rarity that seems to have been dug up at battle sites, losing some of its parts.
Next comes a group of machines averaging 30-40s from the USA or Germany. In my opinion, such machines are of historical value. Their purchase may be due to the fact that you are more of a turner-collector and a lover of history related to machine tool building. Such machines can be either inoperative or in “full combat readiness.” The price range is also quite large. But still, let’s face the truth - you can, of course, work on such machines, but they are morally outdated a long time ago. If we draw more understandable analogies, we can draw a parallel with passenger cars. Every day they try to drive modern models, and restored rarities stand at exhibitions or wait in garages for holiday trips. They (both the machines and the machines) have already done their job.
A group of machines from the countries of the socialist camp are machines from Czechoslovakia and Poland. Year of manufacture: 60-80s of the last century. We can say that they are highly valued among a certain category of people who work on tabletop screw-cutting lathes. But the same thing can be said about these machines that I already wrote about ours, which were produced in the 60-70s of the last century. The machines are most often dismantled and appearance leaves much to be desired. Although you can work for them. But, if the guitar gears are lost from the kit, then you are unlikely to be able to cut threads with the required pitch.
The most widely represented machines are from China. Sometimes sellers say that the components and the machines themselves are made in Taiwan. The only fundamental difference is that on the world map these two countries have different names. Differences in design may only be cosmetic.
Companies that sell Chinese machines can be registered in Germany, the Czech Republic, Russia, Switzerland, etc. The machines will differ in color, as well as in the layout of buttons and control levers. They will have the same general design. Before I could make an informed choice and strengthen myself in it, I had to work on various Chinese machines, a domestic machine, review and process material from the Internet on tabletop lathes. In the process of work, requirements for the characteristics of the machine were developed and models were eliminated, which I deliberately refused to purchase, seeing a discrepancy between my requirements and the performance characteristics of the machines.
I’ll start with the notorious statements that people who are faced with choosing a table lathe can read on the Internet. “Chinese machines lack rigidity and ours, therefore they are better” is one of the generalized statements. In my opinion, this phrase is completely unsubstantiated. It can be crushed during processing on any machine with any weight. Much depends on the sharpening of the cutter, the workpiece material, cutting modes, settings and adjustment of the machine itself. Therefore, you should not pay attention or take seriously this statement about the rigidity of the structure.
The second statement is related to the fact that the heavier the machine, the better. Better for what? If you need to be able to move and remove the machine, then its weight is more important to you. If the machine is heavy, this does not mean that it will process the surface of the workpiece cleaner. It all depends on the person who operates the machine. In addition, if your machine is located in an apartment and not in a garage, then it is very desirable that the machine works quietly and does not cause hysterics in your wife or neighbors.

When you start choosing a machine, first of all, you need to remember that THERE IS NO IDEAL MACHINE. The problems of a Chinese machine can be experienced by both a German and a domestic one.
When a user tries to choose a domestic benchtop lathe with an 80mm chuck, he is faced with “Universal” machines of various modifications depending on the year of manufacture and the manufacturer. Modifications may have different names, but the essence does not change. "Universal" is a domestically produced tabletop lathe on which you can perform turning, threading, milling, jointing, sharpening tools, polishing, grinding, sawing with a jigsaw and drilling. The kit includes various devices that allow you to perform the above operations. If you buy a new “Universal”, then the cost of the machine with equipment will be from 60,000 rubles. Used station wagons of early modifications can be bought for 10,000-12,000 rubles. For me, these machines have several fundamental disadvantages that keep me from buying them. The machines are quite bulky, their weight ranges from 60 kg to 90 kg. Most users will not be able to move this machine alone. In addition, the machines operate quite noisily because the gears are metal and not plastic. Many copies have been broken due to disputes over what material the gears should be made of. Just don’t confuse an industrial machine with a small-sized desktop machine, which operates under completely different cutting conditions and should provide a completely different noise level. To change the spindle rotation speed, you need to throw the belt. Also, not all modifications allow cutting threads, and those that allow cutting threads can only cut metric ones. Most modifications have a small through hole in the spindle of 15 mm and a small distance between centers. As a result, the user may have a machine that is more expensive than a Chinese one, rather bulky, heavy and noisy. Potentially, it can perform many operations besides turning, but the workpieces will be shorter in length than when working on Chinese machines, which, in terms of the total length of the machine itself and the diameter of the lathe chuck, will be like the “Universal” and its clones.
Thus, the domestic tabletop machine is no longer needed. There remain Chinese machines that have an 80mm chuck and a distance between centers of 300mm-400mm. If you start comparing by price, you can see a fairly wide range of prices for machines that are close clones of each other. Profi, Proma, STM, Caliber, JET, DIY, Corvette, etc. - different names for almost the same machines. Analyzing products based on the price-quality-performance ratio, I settled on products with the DIY brand. The most low price, with the same quality or with best quality and a lower price than a competitor. In addition to the price, do not forget to compare the engine power. It may turn out that with close linear and weight data the difference in power is quite noticeable. Those. A 550W motor is more profitable than a 350W motor. My choice fell on DIY 0714. This machine has the largest distance between centers among other DIY machines that have an 80mm chuck. The weight of 0714 is 42 kg, which allows it to be carried by a person of average build. But this machine also has a detail that distinguishes it from others of the same kind. Features in better side. This part is the tailstock. The DIY tailstock is much more massive than that of other machines, which are its “brothers” in general design. The horizontal center position can be adjusted with screws. For its clones with the brands Profi, Proma, STM, Caliber, JET, Corvette, the horizontal position of the tailstock is adjusted by manual displacement after loosening the fasteners. But you can only do rough adjustments manually. If you need to move it by 0.015mm, the user will not be able to do this manually. In this case, fine adjustment with screws is necessary. And DIY, unlike its other “brothers” with an 80mm cartridge, has such an adjustment. And this allows you to achieve turning of a part clamped in the centers, without taper. The outer diameter of the quill is larger than that of other “brothers”.

The thicker the quill, the higher the rigidity and the less vibration during operation. When drilling, you can use a millimeter notch on the quill, but if you need a more precise recess into the workpiece, you can use a dial with a division value of 0.025 mm.

The "brothers" only have a millimeter ruler on the pintles. Initially, the tailstock is fixed using a side lever. But I changed it to fix it with a nut. I thought it would be tougher this way.
Now, after I talked about the most important difference between the DIY 0714 and its “brothers,” I would like to describe as much as possible the capabilities of this machine, both in the lathe and screw-cutting version, and in the versions when it can replace the drilling and milling, cutting and cylindrical grinding machines. Of course, it cannot be replaced completely, but for work related to modeling or processing of small workpieces, the machine can successfully replace the above-mentioned machines, especially since the market has a wide selection of various devices that can expand the capabilities of Chinese machines with an 80mm chuck, RMC 300mm-400mm and motor 350W-550W.
Before you start working on the machine, I highly recommend removing the side protective shield. The chips, of course, may scatter more, but the sound of the machine will be quieter and, in addition, the protective screen will not interfere with the movement of the transverse support when working with various drilling and milling devices.
So, in the basic version for turning, the DIY 0714 machine allows you to process cylindrical and conical parts, cut metric and inch threads, drill, trim and other operations typical of screw-cutting lathes.
An 80mm lathe chuck or faceplate is attached to the spindle flange. There are a number of holes on the flange for installing a cartridge or faceplate. Their location and quantity allows

install not only a self-centering chuck with three jaws, but also chucks with four jaws. For processing parts with complex shapes or for turning parts with an eccentric, a chuck with four jaws is used, each jaw of which moves independently of the others. To work with a part with a square or octagonal cross-section, you need a self-centering chuck with four jaws. If you need to grind a part clamped in the centers, then into the spindle

the headstock must be equipped with a thrust center with a Morse taper?3, and in the tailstock quill a rotating center with a Morse taper?2. The machine comes with stop centers for the spindle and tailstock. But I recommend buying a domestic thrust center with a Morse taper?3 for the spindle. It is longer than the standard one that comes with the machine. Because it is longer, it will allow the piece to be completely turned to length. Otherwise, using a standard center, there will be a zone that the cutter cannot process, because the standard thrust center is short and the caliper will reach its extreme position on the left, but will not be able to go through the entire part. In addition, a drill chuck (with a key or a keyless one), a thrust center, reamers or drills with a tapered shank can be installed in the tailstock quill. If the cone of the tool does not coincide with the cone of the quill, then you need

Buy adapter bushings. Such bushings allow you to switch from a lower cone number to a larger one.
When processing a part with cutters, you can use cutters with a height of 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Do not forget that the cutter must be installed in the center, fixed in the tailstock quill. To ensure that the cutting edge of the cutter coincides with the center, metal plates of varying thicknesses must be placed. When working on hobby machines, you can use strips cut from plastic cards of various thicknesses. The metal plates can be made from a folding yardstick or a metal ruler. Both of them cost ridiculous amounts of money. And you can find them in almost any mall with shelves displaying tools and all kinds of household goods.
For turning cones, the tailstock can be moved horizontally. In addition, the cone can be sharpened using a cross support, which is installed at the desired angle.

To accurately set the angle of the cone, you can use a protractor; it will be more accurate than the one already attached to the cross support by the manufacturer.
There is a set of gears for cutting threads. It is necessary when cutting metric threads. The machine is equipped with them as standard by the manufacturer. To cut inch threads, you need to buy an additional set of gears and a lead screw.
If you need to bore an internal hole or make an annular groove inside a small hole, special cutters can be useful, but the shank of the holder can have a circular cross-section. To use such cutters, I made a special adapter. In the future, it can also be useful as a vice for holding small cylindrical parts when cutting or cutting a slot. This adapter is a square holder from a regular cutter, on which a drill chuck for a drill is attached.

The cartridge is mounted on an M12x1.25 thread. It is not difficult to make such a holder, but during work it will be useful not only as an additional device for a lathe.
If everything with turning is more or less clear to most who buy their first machine, then when using additional devices that expand the capabilities of the machine, many questions arise. First of all, they want to know what they can buy and how to use it. The information in turning reference books is quite sparse, and the experience of others is quite limited. Or the usage rating may be negative, which may completely incorrectly reflect the actual operation of a particular attachment on your lathe. Before you decide that you want to use the machine not only as a screw-cutting lathe, but also in other options, you must understand that all the backlash of the moving joints in the transverse and cross slide must be selected. This is especially true for those places where the wedges are located. This primarily applies to the cross caliper, because in most cases the cross caliper will be removed and some kind of device installed in its place. In order to more reliably select the backlashes, I replaced the screws with a slotted head for a flat-head screwdriver with bolts with a head for an open-end wrench. With such bolts you can tighten the wedges more, eliminating play and without fear of tearing off the spline. The slotted screws did not allow me to select the backlash as much as the open-end bolts.

Now, after the machine is prepared to work with various attachments, I will begin to describe what and how can be additionally installed on the DIY 0714 machine, maximizing its capabilities.
I'll start with the simplest thing - small vices.

They are installed instead of a cross support and a tool holder. In order for them to stand in place of the cross support, a hole with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 8 mm is drilled from below in the sole of the vice.

By installing a vice on the cross slide, you turn the lathe into a drilling or cutting machine. If you intend to use it as a drill, then the workpiece is clamped in a vice, and the drill (cutter) is clamped in a lathe chuck or installed in the spindle cone if the drill (cutter) has a conical shank.

The vice on the cross slide can be installed at different angles, and accordingly the workpiece will be drilled at an angle. When installing the vice at different angles, you need to use a protractor. The angle is set in the same way as when installing different angles of the cross support.
If you install a mandrel with a cutting (slotting) cutter in the headstock spindle, then the machine can be used as a cutting machine.

The workpiece is clamped in a vice and fed to the cutter. Milling in this case should be along the way, i.e. The rotation of the cutter does not occur against the movement of the workpiece. The workpiece can be cut at different angles; to do this, you can change the angle of installation of the vice.

When choosing a cutting (slotting) cutter, you must remember that its thickness should be minimal and the tooth as small as possible. If necessary, you can not only cut off the workpiece, but also cut a slot for a flat-head screwdriver.

If during work it seems to you that the rigidity of the system is insufficient, then the cutting mandrel can be pressed with a persistent or rotating cone installed in the tailstock quill. I forgot to add that the nut that clamps the cutter on the mandrel must be turned so that the vice passes under it.
To move further and expand the capabilities of such a machine, you can install a milling device on the cross support.

Cutters and drills can be mounted in a lathe chuck or in the spindle taper. Thanks to the milling fixture, the workpiece can move vertically or horizontally relative to the cutting tool.

A vice can be attached to a milling fixture in various ways, depending on the size and geometry of the workpiece being processed. If for some reason the workpiece does not fit into the vice, then it can be clamped with mounting screws. They also secure the vice in the milling fixture.

Let me remind you that when working with a milling device, all backlashes must be selected. The cross support and the slide of the milling device must be secured against movement. Only the carriage assembled with various accessories should move. If using a milling device you have to make various figure-of-eight clamps, then to measure the center distance of the holes or simply measure the vertical movement of the slide, you can use an electronic height gauge.

In addition to the milling device, a cylindrical grinding device can be installed on the machine. Just don’t forget that when using it or simply sanding a workpiece using sandpaper, abrasive flies in different directions. It also flies onto the frame guides. If they are not protected from this, then rapid wear of the latter is possible. Therefore, it is better to use wet rags that cover the entire machine. Don’t forget that when covering the machine with rags, you need to do it in such a way that the rags themselves do not interfere with the operation of the machine. So before turning it on, try to imitate the operation and make sure that the rags are not pulled in anywhere or wrapped around anything. After working with the cylindrical grinder, carefully remove the rags and throw them away. Or we wash the floors with them, but do not re-install them on the machine.
When buying such a machine, remember that it is for this category of machines that the most additional equipment can be found on our market. If some equipment is not suitable, then it can be easily adapted to the DIY 0714 machine. Users often look for drawings of devices for processing external and internal spherical surfaces. They are looking for the purpose of making these devices. But there is no need to reinvent the wheel, especially since Proxon has a similar device in its catalogs and for sale.

To install this device on the DIY 0714 machine, I made an adapter.

Such an adapter can be made using a milling device, which I already wrote about above.
Thus, you must understand that such a machine is a constructor and it depends only on you what can be assembled from it and how it (the machine) will work.
Concluding the material on DIY 0714, I want to say that you can treat machines from China however you like. You can do it with the disdain of a snob, or you can do it with respect, like a good assistant. The reality is that a Chinese machine at a relatively low price can provide you with significant assistance by realizing your ideas in metal, plastic or wood. An electronic measuring tool will help you get the job done more accurately. And remember that a small machine can do the same thing as its larger counterparts, it will just do the job slower. He can handle a lot of things and his capabilities are quite wide. You will enjoy working on it. The machine will respond in kind to your attention.

The DIY 0714 benchtop unit is a compact metal turning equipment that is produced according to a single technical documentation several Chinese manufacturers.

1

DIY 0714 units were supplied to Russia by the commercial company Konopleva (an entrepreneur well known in the market of domestic equipment for metal processing). It was from this company that one could order a Chinese machine at a reasonable price. For this reason, you can often hear the expression “I bought a turning unit from Konoplev.”

Each company that currently produces the one we are interested in may make minor changes to its design. Equipment from different companies usually differs from each other in two characteristics: the distance (maximum) between the centers of the machine and the power indicator of the installed engine.

The remaining technical parameters of metal lathes of the described model are the same:

• spindle revolutions per minute – from 50 to 2500;
• movement – ​​65 mm (transverse) and 35 mm (longitudinal);
• chuck diameter for working tools – 80 mm;
• taper – Morse 2 (headstock), Morse 3 (spindle);
• thread pitch (metric only) – from 0.5 to 2.5 mm;
• the cross-section of the hole in the spindle is 20 mm.

A special feature of the unit is that it is necessarily equipped with a special frequency regulator. This mechanism changes the power supplied to the electric motor, which makes it possible to control its rotation speed as efficiently as possible.

This regulator independently increases/decreases the motor power if workpiece processing conditions require it. Thus, no matter what loads the lathe experiences, its spindle assembly always rotates at the same speed. This feature is very important for users of the unit, most of whom are amateurs and not specialists. DIY 0714 is usually called a hobby lathe, that is, one that can be used to perform exclusively simple household machining operations.

2

Structurally, the “brainchild” of Chinese engineers includes the following main parts and mechanisms:

• sled;
• guides;
• two grandmothers;
• cross and transverse support;
• apron;
• spindle head bushing flywheels and carriage feed flywheel;
• engine control module;
• cross feed flywheel;
• spindle sleeve;
• tool holder;
• a handle that secures the headstock (spindle) bushing in a given position;
• chuck (three jaws).

Also in the design of the unit there is a nut necessary for clamping the spindle head, a handle for starting the longitudinal automatic feed, a lead screw, a thread indicator, a gear housing, and a separate caliper feed lever (cross).

There are also two levers on the back of the unit. One allows you to select the desired longitudinal automatic feed (three positions), using the second you assign the type of feed (low or high).

The DIY 0714 comes factory packaged with a chuck, a fixed rear center, a set of external jaws, four Allen keys (3-6mm), a set of gears (replacement gears) for , a chuck key, an additional electrical fuse and wrenches. These tools and accessories allow you to install and adjust a tabletop lathe without calling in a specialist.

3

When rotating, the caliper flywheel (transverse) moves the caliper along the longitudinal slide along the guides. This feed is needed to remove chamfers from workpieces and to approach them with tools.

The slide is moved by another flywheel in two directions - from the headstock and towards it. This handwheel makes it possible to quickly position the carriage in the right place when turning a product. Please note that if the lathe is operating in automatic mode, it is prohibited to manually move the carriage.

The cross slide slide is controlled by a third flywheel. It is used to determine the distance to which the working tool should be moved. There is no other way to complete this procedure. There are markings on the flywheel. It allows the operator to evaluate and perform the (relative) movement of the feed in the transverse direction.

When it becomes necessary to select the zero value of the flywheel, you should:

• unscrew the fixing screw on it (use a hex wrench);
• set the value to "0" (simply by turning the handwheel);
• tighten the screw.

The spindle sleeve on the headstock, when fully screwed into the bushing, pushes the thrust center out of it. The bushing itself moves back and forth with a handwheel. And you can secure the spindle head sleeve in the required position using a special handle.

The feed start lever (longitudinal) in auto mode is connected to a device that closes the two parts of the sleeve into one. This mechanism is needed to crimp the lead screw. When the lever is moved, the screw rotates in the sleeve and it is screwed (gradually) onto the thread. The feed is turned on when the lever is set to the upper position and turned off when the lower position is selected.

4

When starting up the machine equipment for the first time, it is necessary to perform a comprehensive set-up of the unit by adjusting the slide, nut and support bars (transverse), cross support bars, apron and lead screw. Manufacturers also recommend that if the unit is actively used, such adjustment procedures should be performed regularly to ensure the functionality and safety of the lathe.

The machine slide is fixed on the guides by holders in the form of two plates. They are located at the bottom of the slide. These holders, in turn, are secured with clamps that prevent the plates from unwinding during operation of the lathe. The adjustment of the plates is carried out using hexagonal head screws according to the scheme described below:

• on the right side of the unit, dismantle the screw (running) bushing;
• Unscrew two bolts from the slide (front);
• remove the apron from the screw, moving it slightly to the right;
• Loosen the fixing devices on the holders.

After this, adjust the clamps and plates, tightening them using the tools included with the unit. At correct setting the slides do not have the slightest play and at the same time move easily along the guides.

The caliper bars and nuts are adjusted in a similar manner (loosening the screw and unscrewing the locknuts). These processes are well described in the data sheet that comes with the model 0714 tabletop machine.

The procedure for fine-tuning the apron is of great importance for the convenience of working on the equipment. On this machine unit, it is necessary to adjust the position of the half-bushings (they are threaded). They must be located at the same distance from the feed screw. They are configured like this:

• unscrew the screws securing the slide and apron;
• half-bushings are engaged;
• carefully tighten the screws.

This procedure should be performed as often as possible, otherwise your lathe simply will not work well.

Quite often it is desirable to adjust the lead screw, or rather the two bushings in which it rotates. Each bushing is adjusted separately. To adjust the right bushing, it is necessary to dismantle the spindle head, and the left one - the casing, which protects the set of gears from external influences. The adjustment process itself consists of carefully tightening all existing screws and nuts.

Quick-change cartridge-type tool holder MULTIFIX

Quick-change cartridge-type tool holder MULTIFIX- modern design of tool holder for lathes, which makes it possible to significantly simplify tool changing while simultaneously reducing the time for changing it. Is different high accuracy reinstallation, as well as convenience and ease of adjustment. The MULTIFIX tool holder is suitable for all common types of screw-cutting lathes.

Features of the MULTIFIX tool holder

• Reliable cam clamp
• Repositioning accuracy 0.01 mm
• Ground ring gear
• 40 possible angular positions with scale reading
• Made from high quality alloy steel
• Adjusting the position of replaceable cartridges in height

Standard contents

It is equipped with three replaceable cartridges for cutters with a square holder and one replaceable cartridge for cutters with a round holder. You can also purchase a tool holder and replacement cartridges separately.

How to determine the standard size of the MULTIFIX tool holder?

Depending on the size and power of the lathe, MULTIFIX toolholders are divided into types: Aa, A, B, C, D. From the smallest to the largest. If you do not know the type of tool holder required, you can determine it using the table:

Dimensions of MULTIFIX tool holder

How to determine the size of a MULTIFIX cartridge?

In addition to matching the standard sizes of tool holders (Aa, A, B, C, D), MULTIFIX quick-change cartridges are also divided into three types of seating surfaces for the tool shank:

• D - for tools with a rectangular shank;
• H - for tools with a round shank;
• J - for a round adapter sleeve for a tool with a Morse taper shank (2, 3, 4).

MULTIFIX cartridge designations

MULTIFIX quick-change cartridges are designated as follows: the first letter is the type of tool holder, the second is the type of shank, the first two numbers are the height (diameter) of the tool, the last two or three numbers are the width of the cartridge (tool clamp length). The designation is usually marked on the tool holder body.

If you require additional cartridges, or replace the MULTIFIX tool holder, you can simply indicate the designation on the cartridge:

MULTIFIX on lathes

A MULTIFIX cartridge-type quick-change tool holder can be equipped with screw cutting lathes made in Slovakia, as well as any other universal screw-cutting lathes. Also quick change tool holder MULTIFIX and cartridges for it can be purchased separately.

How to buy MULTIFIX quick-change tool holder and cartridges?

To buy a MULTIFIX quick-change tool holder and cartridges for it, please send your application by email info@site, (or [email protected]), or simply click on the button below and write what type of tool holder and cartridges you need, their quantity and details for invoicing.

Delivery

We can send MULTIFIX quick-change tool holder and cartridges by any transport company.

Alexey Orlov 02-01-2008 02:51

And how much if it’s not a secret?

Ular 02-01-2008 03:14

quote: And how much if it’s not a secret?

OSG 02-01-2008 03:23

Is it possible to order a machined part from you?

Vlasenko 02-01-2008 04:03

quote: And how much if it’s not a secret?

quote: Is it possible to order a machined part from you?

smix 02-01-2008 10:29

My congratulations, a very necessary thing in the household.
I've been looking for something like this myself for a long time.
Give feedback on the operation of the unit.

Andy 02-01-2008 11:25

Victor, congratulations on your useful acquisition.

I hope that there will be a continuation of the review (I myself use other people’s turning work so rarely that I have no thoughts of purchasing my own machine, but still, I read it with great interest).

Don't call me a bore, but your previews are too big, and the photos themselves are too small. imho

Is the machine itself very noisy?

ivan-3 02-01-2008 15:12

When I first read it, I was shocked that the frame is made of high-carbon steel, I think it’s so high-carbon that it even looks like cast iron
Then I saw from the link that hemp was stolen from the site, so either the translation was not accurate or the Ketais have overtaken the Swiss in mechanical engineering
Those. I think it’s still cast iron, since steel will be MUCH more expensive even among the Ketais (if they are even capable of making it from steel)

Vlasenko 02-01-2008 16:01

quote: Those. I think it's still cast iron

In short - as indicated in the review, the device is from the “do it yourself” series.

quote: I've been looking for something like this myself for a long time.

quote: Is the machine itself very noisy?

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 01:14

I recommend purchasing this tool holder from Konoplev. Firstly, you don’t need any backing to align the cutter in the center. Secondly, it is very convenient to change already set incisors.

By the way, I use 12x12 cutters; they fit perfectly into the cartridges. In the cartridges, I recut all the holes, both for the adjusting screws and the clamping screws, to M6 threads.

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 01:31

quote: I recommend purchasing this tool holder from Konoplev.

blacksmith 03-01-2008 01:46

quote: Originally posted by Vlasenko:

I'm interested in knurling.

There is one on MiZ, although it’s a little expensive... something like 1000...

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 01:54

quote: There is one on MiZ, although it’s a little expensive... something like 1000...

Zmeyuka 03-01-2008 12:51

Vlasenko, you write: "The diameter of the through hole of the spindle, mm - 20"
What is the diameter of the hole in the cartridge?
I ask because on the Proma machine that I looked at at the exhibition, the spindle was actually stated to be 20 mm, and the chuck was about 15 mm.

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 15:59

There is a machine, it won’t take long to do the knurling yourself. And ready-made rollers can be bought at Moskvoretsky both with straight and oblique cutting. Yes, and you can look for ready-made knurling there.
And just in case, here's a knurling drawing for you.

Vlasenko 03-01-2008 16:39

quote: in Proma’s machine, which I looked at at the exhibition, the spindle was actually stated to be 20 mm, and the chuck was about 15 mm.

quote: It doesn’t take long to do the knurling yourself.

Vlad Klem 03-01-2008 17:29

I advise you to look for a leading center like this (or something like this). This thing really makes life easier when you need to sharpen something that doesn’t fit into the chuck.

Vlasenko 04-01-2008 19:19

I ran to Konoplev...
At home I sharpened a little bit of wood, duralumin, brass...
I added a little to the review...

quote: By the way, I use 12x12 cutters; they fit perfectly into the cartridges.

quote: And just in case, here's a knurling drawing for you.

Vlad Klem 05-01-2008 15:58

So I took a tool holder for a larger machine. Although the tool holder is also 50x50mm in plan. I have a 14mm cutter slot.
The knurls are not mine. These are just very easy to make. I have a more complex knurling with replaceable rollers. These machines have a rather flimsy mount for the upper support (for turning cones). I made another mount, like on this site. There are a lot of devices here for your own “stool.” By the way, in order to increase the rigidity of the tool holder, you can simply temporarily remove the upper support, and instead put a plate of equal height and a tool holder on it. (we don’t sharpen cones every day)
Here is the website. http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/index-e.html
Toolholder: http://bedair.org/clamp/9x20clamp.html

Vlasenko 05-01-2008 20:15

quote: So I took a tool holder for a larger machine.

I ran to the Moskvoretsky market today. I bought knurling rollers, an old hour indicator (0-10mm), and some other small things to replenish the cutting tools...

By the way, this DIY Chinese, despite its power, is not so powerful. Yesterday I cut an M6 thread on a brass stand. I ground the shaft to 6, then put a hand die into the die holder and use the handles to move onto the machined shaft... Well, then, as I’m used to with normal large-sized ones, the die holder rests on the frame and feeds the smallest revolutions... The spindle started half a turn and stood up... I had to turn off the power and cut it to the full length with my hands...
What was pleasing about all this was that the plastic gears withstood the load perfectly. I decided to put off replacing them with metal ones for now... Let them plow until they break...

Vlad Klem 05-01-2008 22:47

To cut threads with a tap or dies on such machines, you need to make a device on the back of the spindle and turn it manually. There was such a thing somewhere on the net. Yes, it seems that she was attached to some of ours desktop machines. This is a handwheel, the front part of which is a reverse collet. It is inserted into the spindle hole and the collet is released with a bolt. We turn the handwheel when cutting threads.

Vlasenko 05-01-2008 23:09

quote: To cut threads with a tap or dies on such machines, you need to make a device

Well, as for the tools for carving - the option you know. If you want to clamp it in the tailstock, but you need to cut it at a long length, you can also place it in the chuck...

Vlad Klem 06-01-2008 14:27

So, I have this garbage. But M12 and above are difficult to cut with such a thing on small machines, especially if the steel is slightly heated (normalized). The roller in the cartridge (even in the 125th) rotates. It’s better then to use a cutter and it comes out faster and more accurately.

q123q 07-01-2008 23:08

Isn’t such a small power confusing? Just half a kilo...

Serjant 07-01-2008 23:26

For such a lathe, this is more than enough.

Konstantin_E 22-01-2008 23:53

Good evening. I see there are plenty of such machines. Very recently, an analogue appeared - Proma300. Judging by the description, the machines are functionally the same, but differ slightly in size. A very decent little thing for a home workshop. I recently worked on mine for a few days and had a lot of fun. I discovered that the machine easily removes a millimeter per pass, automatically. Both from non-ferrous metal and steel. The only thing the Czechs didn’t check was that the dial was calibrated for feed, and not for size and diameter. But this is a matter of habit. And they did not close the longitudinal feed gears from chips. Is it the same on your machine? I do not advise you to immediately cut the thread with a cutter, since for this it is advisable to have the skills of a larger machine. And do not burden yourself with thread cutting using a motor tool. If the gears are plastic then anything can happen. At this time, the load on them is noticeably greater than during grooving.

varenik59 23-01-2008 21:35

in a conversation with Konoplev, information was received about the existence in nature of 80 mm four-jaw self-centering cartridges under this machine, but now they are not there... will order...)

SiDiS 23-01-2008 21:59

There are both 4-jaw and 6-jaw self-centering chucks. The first is used for processing square-section workpieces, the second was used for processing thin-walled workpieces

varenik59 23-01-2008 22:11

Frankly speaking, I didn’t know. Although what you are describing is rather special equipment for solving narrow problems (for working on the process of a single operation). But for a universal lathe for the home (and not only home) workshop, it seems to me that nothing better than a three-jaw lathe has yet been invented. And the machine is really good. The eye is caressing.

Vlad Klem 23-01-2008 22:28

My engine power is 1.1 kW. But single-phase. The transmission was piled up, and the toothed belt from the engine to the clutch and V-belt, from the clutch to the spindle, and the thickness of the soul and three-groove pulleys, not counting a bunch of gears. I want to install the same engine, but three-phase and power it from the frequency converter, having first discarded all the pulleys, timing and V-belts. Place a single-groove pulley on the engine and the same on the spindle and regulate the speed with a frequency control. I'm tired of throwing belts around, and they break. I changed 4 belts in a year, one toothed and three V-belts. It's good that a solution was found. You buy a serpentine belt from a VAZ generator drive, cut the adol and get 6 belts. Relatives stand there like a helicopter.
You could fly into a chimney with just the straps.

Vlasenko 30-01-2008 01:30

quote: frankly speaking, I didn’t know. Although what you are describing is rather special equipment for solving narrow problems (for working on the process of a single operation). But for a universal lathe for the home (and not only home) workshop, it seems to me that nothing better than a three-jaw lathe has yet been invented.

quote: And the longitudinal feed gears were not protected from chips. Is it the same on your machine? I do not advise you to immediately cut the thread with a cutter, since for this it is advisable to have the skills of a larger machine. And do not burden yourself with thread cutting using a motor tool. If the gears are plastic then anything can happen.

quote: I'm tired of throwing belts around, and they break. I changed 4 belts in a year, one toothed and three V-belts. It's good that a solution was found. You buy a serpentine belt from a VAZ generator drive, cut the adol and get 6 belts. Relatives stand there like a helicopter.
You could fly into a chimney with just the straps.