Description of the Victory ship set

The cannons on the upper deck are mounted on walnut frames and have trousers and waists. Lanterns, rails, fences and other parts made of brass, cast or walnut. About a hundred beautiful metal cannons and carronades"Bronze" polished to give them a natural appearance. The gun ports open and close on their hinges. The set includes calves on salings, all tops platforms are sheathed.

In general, the spar of the model is made in quite detail, like all Corel models. Stand provided, rigging threads of five diameters, flags. The 14-sheet drawings and instructions include both full-size and scale diagrams. Since 2011, due to changes in technology, the printing on flags has been blurred.

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For a long time I wanted to collect something more substantial and larger, and I, knowing that my beloved husband would not refuse me a birthday gift of my choice, of course, asked for a ship set! From then on, I spent my days on the Internet searching for “big, beautiful, and complex.” It’s quite natural that my eyes burned and my hands itched when I saw the models Wasa, Soleil Royal, Prins Willem, La Superbe and where without Sovereign of the Seas. In general, the lip is not stupid.

I avoided HMS Victory and Bounty - they didn’t seem very interesting to me, since they are collected by many and often. But fate, as usual, did not particularly listen to my own opinion - having stumbled into a couple of model stores, I still could not leave in one of them a large (and for me, like in cartoons, shining) box with HMS Victory. Deciding that “well, let many people collect it, but it’s big and beautiful, and that’s exactly what I wanted!”

In general, our family budget decreased a little, but I became the owner of a wonderful set from Mantua - HMS Victory. And, if it weren’t for the seller with a stern face and the weight of the box, I would jump with this box in my arms and sing with happiness :).

Of course, upon arriving home, everything was pulled out of the box, laid out and carefully examined. I chose the attic as a workspace (and it’s very convenient - you can saw, sharpen, sand, and paint, and not disturb anyone). By the way, I should note that before, when I was working in the room, my husband was not indignant at the smell of paint or wood dust, but quite the opposite - he really likes my passion for ships, and we often sit together over the instructions, discussing what how to collect. In general, after a thorough inspection of the box, I came to my husband with an impressive list of tools that I was “very good!” needed.

Having finally got everything I needed, I got to work.

What I really like at the very beginning is the assembly of the frame. Suddenly, almost a ship appears out of nothing. The imagination immediately begins to outline the “skeleton” of the ship with wood, decks, cannons and rigging.

And I want to hurry up to make it faster. But you have to constantly stop yourself, because from the very kindergarten The proverb was hammered into my head: “If you hurry, you make people laugh.” Since then, I have been trying to first “measure seven times” and only “cut once.”
After trying on the frames, making sure that each of them was exactly where it should be, I glued them on. While the glue was drying, I measured and cut the jumpers to which the guns would later be attached.

Jumpers on the hull of HMS Victory where the false guns will be attached.

According to the instructions, after the frame is assembled, the decks should be installed. I know that many people prefer to rough-skin the hull first and then install the decks. Maybe next time I’ll do just that (since it’s very inconvenient to then mask the gaps between the deck and the sheathing if the deck was glued and laid before the sheathing). On the other hand, it was very convenient for me to mark and lay the deck not on the ship, but on the table.

I decided not to struggle with the eternal question of “how to fill the seams,” but simply blackened one edge (and the joint, respectively) with a marker before applying the sticker. Here is the result.

Blackening of joints on deck.

When all the decks were in their rightful place, the first hull plating began.

After a not very pleasant experience in bending slats on previous ships, I finally got hold of this wonderful tool from Amati (how does it sound, huh? - “tool for bending slats from Amati” :)). I must say that he helped me very, very much.

And where would we be without a nailer (again, after the not very pleasant experience of driving nails in with small pliers and a hammer). True, this nail broke quite often and at the most inopportune moments.

On the advice from the site, after the body was sheathed, I decided to seal the cracks using PVA glue and sawdust. The spectacle, I must say, is pitiful...

The hull of HMS Victory being puttied.

Oh, what a pity that back then I didn’t yet know what wood filler was... But that’s okay, it worked too.

And now the first skin is ready - the cracks are sealed and everything is thoroughly sanded.

I know that many people prefer not to use nails on finished trim. But the holes left behind seem even nicer to me, and working with them (with carnations, that is) is much more convenient and faster.

Using nails on finishing sheathing.

So I started finishing the sheathing with the same nail and “tool from Amati”.

Stud marks on the bow of HMS Victory.

A little patience and diligence, and now the finishing plating is coming to an end.

Finishing of HMS Victory.

Finally the entire body is coated and sanded. A “blank” is glued under the stern. And all this together is very pleasing to the eye. At least mine :).

The kit included a cardboard template for gun ports, quite convenient for marking, after all, there are 52 ports on each side (I just counted them specifically), plus a hatch, plus two more ports on the stern. Total - 108 rectangular holes need to be cut!

Applying a template for gun ports.

In the instructions in the picture, everything could not be simpler - I drilled four holes in each corner and carefully cut it out with a knife. “It’s a piece of cake,” I decided and started... Lord, if I knew what was in store for me now! These unfortunate four holes drilled in each corner of the port did not bring any help. I had to drill more holes - eight, or even more. Then cut it with a knife, which was also a problem - a double layer of wood, and even with a layer of glue, cutting is non-trivial, and even cutting out a square in it... In general, the result in the end is not very beautiful. My mood is ruined, my hands are calloused, my clothes are covered in sawdust and shavings. I was offended by everyone, went to swim and sleep. The morning is wiser than the evening.

Returning with a fresh head to my long-suffering ship, I realized that I had not yet thought through something. It was necessary to paint the jumpers for attaching the guns black in advance. Well, it doesn’t matter, better late than never (well, I’ve already started writing poetry).

As a result, I had the ports cut out and the inserts painfully painted in half.

I painted the frames of the ports red in advance (inside), it’s time to insert and glue them. Here I was faced with another “ambush” - the frames were crooked, ribbed and in general... Well, where is this good for?!

Calm down, calm down. All is not lost yet. The frames still stick. Then they are covered (with great care) and sanded. And in the end, everything is not as bad as it seemed at the beginning. You can continue with a calm soul and a clear conscience.

Completed HMS Victory gun ports.

To be honest, I didn’t want to cover the bottom with copper (and it wasn’t in the kit). Covering the body with black paint, trying to resemble the original, is the same (well, it’s a pity for me to paint noble wood, it’s a pity!). I settled on what was suggested in the instructions - make yellow stripes. It’s scary... I’ve never painted wooden ships before. The paint is selected, the brush is ready. Well, with blessings, let's get started.

Like many other modellers, in particular Sergei Kavtorov (), whose review I used during the assembly of HMS Victory, I have an assistant (and Sergei had a son as an assistant, as I understand it). I must say that the slats are an excellent toy, it’s very comfortable to lie on the drawings, and other than a box from under a ship, there is no better or more comfortable “bed.” That's it.

With the help of the cat, I painted the top of the body and glued on the “intermediate” slats. I decided to use the result in this still life (And don’t say that a ship cannot be used in a still life! Still life - in fine arts- image of inanimate objects (looked at Wikipedia)). To be honest, I took this photo for a photo competition (photography is another hobby of mine).

Every time a step in the build is completed, I'm faced with the problem of "What's next?" The instructions don’t really help me here - they are not always clear and not always consistent. For many questions, I used the Internet more often than instructions and drawings. So after painting, I thought for a long time about what to do next. I decided to tidy up the stern.

Forgive me, but since I am a woman (albeit not quite blonde), I very often do not know the names of certain parts of the ship. Here too, I’m not entirely sure that the part with the windows is called the stern (I just found in the dictionary of terms that this part is called the stern superstructure)…

At the very beginning, I really wanted to make lighting in the windows, but since I’m not an electrician (my dad is an electrician, but I haven’t lived with my dad for a long time), I had to settle for blue paint.

The sides did not fit flush against the back, so I had to make wooden inserts between them.

I moved from the stern to the bow (I would say “from the back to the front”, but you will laugh ;-)).

First, I covered the bow deck with slats (probably it has its own name). Then the time came for, I don’t even know what to call it, doors(?)/decorations(?). Let's call this part nicely - false panel. False panel with doors. This false panel was almost ready (a thin yellow sheet of wood with a ready-made embossed pattern); all that remained was to glue the side parts onto the forms, and the middle one just between them. This tree was bendable with difficulty (even with a little steam and with the help of an “Amati tool”, as advised in the instructions). And it didn’t turn out very neatly - the black part of the drawing was cracked and had a completely unpresentable appearance. To correct my mistake, I had to paint the side parts brown (I know, I know that all these parts are supposed to be blue, but I somehow don’t like it, sorry...). I also painted the yellow parts of the picture. Golden. It seemed more solemn to me. The upper part (which was also painted brown and gold) was installed on the false panel.

"False panel" HMS Victory.

Then I installed the bow frames, gratings (from the same yellow wood) and the side parts (here I am really at a loss as to what these side parts are called). I painted all these details, including the nose (and further from the nose - the entire keel) brown. They're all made of plywood and leaving all those layers on display just doesn't look good.

As a result, my (er, that is, the ship’s) nose became more impressive and interesting.

While the paint was drying, I drilled holes in the future anchor beams (if I made a mistake in the name, forgive me). I had to drill by hand, since a 1 mm drill does not fit in the chuck of my drill (and I haven’t bothered to buy a suitable chuck yet, although I should). My fingers get tired, but the result is pleasing.

And so, the design of my nose (again a typo, the bow of a ship, of course) was replenished with two new parts. I also subsequently painted the supporting corners brown, since they are also made of plywood.

By the way, I didn’t have enough insert frames for the gun ports, either due to the manufacturer’s “oversight” or because of my own absent-mindedness (although in the photo on the box all the frames are in place). I had to cut out the top ones by hand. After I did the interior trim (on the deck side), I had to grind and glue the frames, glue them on each side, fill the interior with putty, and finally paint it red.

Homemade gun port frames.

Now about the lower part of the stern. In my opinion it should be called a transom. Oh, and I suffered with her, that is, with him. It’s not for nothing that they say that you should only learn from your mistakes. I, delighted at the ease of use of the wood filler, used it with a broad gesture. After the first varnishing of the lower part of the ship, I finally realized what a stupid thing I had done. In my defense, I note that the slats are really not ideal and quite often there remain quite large gaps even on a flat surface (which I got the hang of masking by dropping a drop of glue into them, I immediately wipe it off with a napkin so that the glue remains only inside the gap/hole, and then I simply go over it with sandpaper, so the gap is filled with wood dust of the same color and is not blown out of there, and, accordingly, there are no glue streaks).

Overall, horrified appearance my stern, that is, the transom (it’s good that I didn’t write “the view of my butt” :)), I sanded it properly (to remove the varnish) and re-coated it (right on top of the old slats).

As far as possible, I will try to post the following parts of the review on the construction of HMS Victory Mantua. This, of course, if there are no fatal (and, I’m afraid of this word, fatal) errors on my part for the model. Thank you for having the patience to read everything written above.

Not long ago we discovered on the popular Model Ship World forum dedicated to ship modeling, an interestingreview building of the battleship HMS Victory in 1:84 scale, published by a member under the nickname Canoe21. Since not everyone can boast of good knowledge of English, but many may be interested in this step-by-step review, we decided to publish a translation of this review on our blog. All interested and simply curious people are welcome to come on board.

Greetings to all colleagues and participants of this forum, my name is Lorenz and I publish under the nickname Canoe21

My precious wife, Bernadette, gave me a magnificent 1:84 scale model of the 1765 HMS Victory battleship for Christmas. Whale producer – Artesania Latina. True, Bernadette immediately asked me to start construction no earlier than December 25th. Imagine my feelings, considering that she gave me the set at the end of October. It was extremely naive on her part.

Finding myself in front of a scale model with lots of detail, I couldn't wait to start building. First, I spent a lot of time studying the assembly instructions in every detail. Then I began to search on the Internet for the history of the ship, as well as everything connected with it. While searching, I came across the Model Ship World (MSW) forum and spent many fascinating hours reading reviews of HMS Victory.

Soon I registered an account on WSW and continued reading reviews of the construction of various sailboats, simultaneously marveling at the gigantic amount of work and various techniques that WSW participants describe.

During the fall-winter, I published more than once in one thread or another, and after numerous prodding from the participants, I decided to start my own review of the building. I admit, it was a very interesting experience. Maybe even no less interesting than the construction of HMS Victory itself.

Let me make a reservation right away that in my work I was guided not so much by the instructions as by the data obtained during my historical studies. Due to lack of experience, I was not always able to achieve the desired result, but it seems to me that my homemade parts fit the boat much better than those that were part of the kit.

The first element I needed to replace was the binnacle. The one that was in the set did not suit me at all, as it was too miniature for such a large vessel. Besides, he looked a little rustic. I know my binnacle is far from perfect, but I think it is more suited to a larger ship like HMS Victory. I admit, after finishing work on it, I had to lower the level of the navigation tools a little, because they were not visible in the windows.

Here it is in the making

And here it is already ready

So, despite Bernadette's requests, I started work on the ship back in November. In addition to working on the binnacle and skylight, I assembled and secured the keel frame, and also made a working stand for the hull, covering it at the contact points with silicone tape.

I think not the first time is enough.

Good luck! Lorenz.

1. Review of the construction of a model of the battleship HMS Victory. Part 1.

For a long time I wanted to collect something more substantial and larger, and I, knowing that my beloved husband would not refuse me a birthday gift of my choice, of course, asked for a ship set! From then on, I spent my days on the Internet searching for “big, beautiful, and complex.” It’s quite natural that my eyes burned and my hands itched when I saw the models Wasa, Soleil Royal, Prins Willem, La Superbe and, of course, Sovereign of the Seas. In general, the lip is not stupid.

I avoided HMS Victory and Bounty - they didn’t seem very interesting to me, since they are collected by many and often. But fate, as usual, did not particularly listen to my own opinion - having stumbled into a couple of model stores, I still could not leave in one of them a large (and for me, like in cartoons, shining) box with HMS Victory. Deciding that “well, let many people collect it, but it’s big and beautiful, and that’s exactly what I wanted!”

In general, our family budget decreased a little, but I became the owner of a wonderful set from Mantua - HMS Victory. And, if it weren’t for the seller with a stern face and the weight of the box, I would jump with this box in my arms and sing with happiness :).

Of course, upon arriving home, everything was pulled out of the box, laid out and carefully examined. I chose the attic as a workspace (and it’s very convenient - you can saw, sharpen, sand, and paint, and not disturb anyone). By the way, I should note that before, when I was working in the room, my husband was not indignant at the smell of paint or wood dust, but quite the opposite - he really likes my passion for ships, and we often sit together over the instructions, discussing what how to collect. In general, after a thorough inspection of the box, I came to my husband with an impressive list of tools that I was “very good!” needed.

Having finally got everything I needed, I got to work.

What I really like at the very beginning is the assembly of the frame. Suddenly, almost a ship appears out of nothing. The imagination immediately begins to outline the “skeleton” of the ship with wood, decks, cannons and rigging.

And I want to hurry up to make it faster. But I have to constantly stop myself, because since kindergarten the proverb was hammered into my head - “If you hurry, you make people laugh,” since then I try to first “measure seven times” and only “cut once.”
After trying on the frames, making sure that each of them was exactly where it should be, I glued them on. While the glue was drying, I measured and cut the jumpers to which the guns would later be attached.

Jumpers on the hull of HMS Victory where the false guns will be attached.

According to the instructions, after the frame is assembled, the decks should be installed. I know that many people prefer to rough-skin the hull first and then install the decks. Maybe next time I’ll do just that (since it’s very inconvenient to then mask the gaps between the deck and the sheathing if the deck was glued and laid before the sheathing). On the other hand, it was very convenient for me to mark and lay the deck not on the ship, but on the table.

I decided not to struggle with the eternal question of “how to fill the seams,” but simply blackened one edge (and the joint, respectively) with a marker before applying the sticker. Here is the result.

Blackening of joints on deck.

When all the decks were in their rightful place, the first hull plating began.

After a not very pleasant experience in bending slats on previous ships, I finally got hold of this wonderful tool from Amati (how does it sound, huh? - “tool for bending slats from Amati” :)). I must say that he helped me very, very much.

And where would we be without a nailer (again, after the not very pleasant experience of driving nails in with small pliers and a hammer). True, this nail broke quite often and at the most inopportune moments.

On the advice from the site, after the body was sheathed, I decided to seal the cracks using PVA glue and sawdust. The spectacle, I must say, is pitiful...

The hull of HMS Victory being puttied.

Oh, what a pity that back then I didn’t yet know what wood filler was... But that’s okay, it worked too.

And now the first skin is ready - the cracks are sealed and everything is thoroughly sanded.

I know that many people prefer not to use nails on finished trim. But the holes left behind seem even nicer to me, and working with them (with carnations, that is) is much more convenient and faster.

Using nails on finishing sheathing.

So I started finishing the sheathing with the same nail and “tool from Amati”.

Stud marks on the bow of HMS Victory.

A little patience and diligence, and now the finishing plating is coming to an end.

Finishing of HMS Victory.

Finally the entire body is coated and sanded. A “blank” is glued under the stern. And all this together is very pleasing to the eye. At least mine :).

The kit included a cardboard template for gun ports, quite convenient for marking, after all, there are 52 ports on each side (I just counted them specifically), plus a hatch, plus two more ports on the stern. Total - 108 rectangular holes need to be cut!

Applying a template for gun ports.

In the instructions in the picture, everything could not be simpler - I drilled four holes in each corner and carefully cut it out with a knife. “It’s a piece of cake,” I decided and started... Lord, if I knew what was in store for me now! These unfortunate four holes drilled in each corner of the port did not bring any help. I had to drill more holes - eight, or even more. Then cut it with a knife, which was also a problem - a double layer of wood, and even with a layer of glue, cutting is non-trivial, and even cutting out a square in it... In general, the result in the end is not very beautiful. My mood is ruined, my hands are calloused, my clothes are covered in sawdust and shavings. I was offended by everyone, went to swim and sleep. The morning is wiser than the evening.

Returning with a fresh head to my long-suffering ship, I realized that I had not yet thought through something. It was necessary to paint the jumpers for attaching the guns black in advance. Well, it doesn’t matter, better late than never (well, I’ve already started writing poetry).

As a result, I had the ports cut out and the inserts painfully painted in half.

I painted the frames of the ports red in advance (inside), it’s time to insert and glue them. Here I was faced with another “ambush” - the frames were crooked, ribbed and in general... Well, where is this good for?!

Calm down, calm down. All is not lost yet. The frames still stick. Then they are covered (with great care) and sanded. And in the end, everything is not as bad as it seemed at the beginning. You can continue with a calm soul and a clear conscience.

Completed HMS Victory gun ports.

To be honest, I didn’t want to cover the bottom with copper (and it wasn’t in the kit). Covering the body with black paint, trying to resemble the original, is the same (well, it’s a pity for me to paint noble wood, it’s a pity!). I settled on what was suggested in the instructions - make yellow stripes. It’s scary... I’ve never painted wooden ships before. The paint is selected, the brush is ready. Well, with blessings, let's get started.

Like many other modellers, in particular Sergei Kavtorov (), whose review I used during the assembly of HMS Victory, I have an assistant (and Sergei had a son as an assistant, as I understand it). I must say that the slats are an excellent toy, it’s very comfortable to lie on the drawings, and other than a box from under a ship, there is no better or more comfortable “bed.” That's it.

With the help of the cat, I painted the top of the body and glued on the “intermediate” slats. I decided to use the result in such a still life (And don’t say that a ship cannot be used in a still life! Still life - in fine art - is an image of inanimate objects (looked at Wikipedia)). To be honest, I took this photo for a photo competition (photography is another hobby of mine).

Every time a step in the build is completed, I'm faced with the problem of "What's next?" The instructions don’t really help me here - they are not always clear and not always consistent. For many questions, I used the Internet more often than instructions and drawings. So after painting, I thought for a long time about what to do next. I decided to tidy up the stern.

Forgive me, but since I am a woman (albeit not quite blonde), I very often do not know the names of certain parts of the ship. Here too, I’m not entirely sure that the part with the windows is called the stern (I just found in the dictionary of terms that this part is called the stern superstructure)…

At the very beginning, I really wanted to make lighting in the windows, but since I’m not an electrician (my dad is an electrician, but I haven’t lived with my dad for a long time), I had to settle for blue paint.

The sides did not fit flush against the back, so I had to make wooden inserts between them.

I moved from the stern to the bow (I would say “from the back to the front”, but you will laugh ;-)).

First, I covered the bow deck with slats (probably it has its own name). Then the time came for, I don’t even know what to call it, doors(?)/decorations(?). Let's call this part nicely - false panel. False panel with doors. This false panel was almost ready (a thin yellow sheet of wood with a ready-made embossed pattern); all that remained was to glue the side parts onto the forms, and the middle one just between them. This tree was bendable with difficulty (even with a little steam and with the help of an “Amati tool”, as advised in the instructions). And it didn’t turn out very neatly - the black part of the drawing was cracked and had a completely unpresentable appearance. To correct my mistake, I had to paint the side parts brown (I know, I know that all these parts are supposed to be blue, but I somehow don’t like it, sorry...). I also painted the yellow parts of the picture. Golden. It seemed more solemn to me. The upper part (which was also painted brown and gold) was installed on the false panel.

"False panel" HMS Victory.

Then I installed the bow frames, gratings (from the same yellow wood) and the side parts (here I am really at a loss as to what these side parts are called). I painted all these details, including the nose (and further from the nose - the entire keel) brown. They're all made of plywood and leaving all those layers on display just doesn't look good.

As a result, my (er, that is, the ship’s) nose became more impressive and interesting.

While the paint was drying, I drilled holes in the future anchor beams (if I made a mistake in the name, forgive me). I had to drill by hand, since a 1 mm drill does not fit in the chuck of my drill (and I haven’t bothered to buy a suitable chuck yet, although I should). My fingers get tired, but the result is pleasing.

And so, the design of my nose (again a typo, the bow of a ship, of course) was replenished with two new parts. I also subsequently painted the supporting corners brown, since they are also made of plywood.

By the way, I didn’t have enough insert frames for the gun ports, either due to the manufacturer’s “oversight” or because of my own absent-mindedness (although in the photo on the box all the frames are in place). I had to cut out the top ones by hand. After I did the interior trim (on the deck side), I had to grind and glue the frames, glue them on each side, fill the interior with putty, and finally paint it red.

Homemade gun port frames.

Now about the lower part of the stern. In my opinion it should be called a transom. Oh, and I suffered with her, that is, with him. It’s not for nothing that they say that you should only learn from your mistakes. I, delighted at the ease of use of the wood filler, used it with a broad gesture. After the first varnishing of the lower part of the ship, I finally realized what a stupid thing I had done. In my defense, I note that the slats are really not ideal and quite often there remain quite large gaps even on a flat surface (which I got the hang of masking by dropping a drop of glue into them, I immediately wipe it off with a napkin so that the glue remains only inside the gap/hole, and then I simply go over it with sandpaper, so the gap is filled with wood dust of the same color and is not blown out of there, and, accordingly, there are no glue streaks).

In general, horrified by the appearance of my stern, that is, the transom (it’s good that I didn’t write “the view of my butt” :)), I sanded it properly (to remove the varnish) and re-coated it (right on top of the old slats).

As far as possible, I will try to post the following parts of the review on the construction of HMS Victory Mantua. This, of course, if there are no fatal (and, I’m afraid of this word, fatal) errors on my part for the model. Thank you for having the patience to read everything written above.

Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" magazine with parts to assemble the legendary ship. Publishing house DeAgostini(DeAgostini). Build your own model of His Majesty's ship "Victory". This is the flagship of Admiral Nelson, a legendary participant in the historical naval battle - the Battle of Trafalgar.

Every issue collections Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" includes a set of parts High Quality to build a model of this beautiful sailboat. You will receive everything you need, including sails, flags, cannons and even metal figurines depicting Admiral Nelson and the sailors from the ship's crew. Every time you can use detailed step by step instructions on assembly, which describes each stage of work. In addition, on the pages of the magazine you will find interesting information about the great era of sailing ships. Find out more about great naval commanders and outstanding sailors, famous ships and fierce battles!

Ship model

In the magazine you will find everything you need to create a unique Models of Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" High Quality!

Ship modeling allows you to acquire a wide range of skills and abilities, as well as learn a number of special techniques for making sails and gear, their coloring and finishing. Even if you have no experience making models before today, you will be able to assemble your Victory ship, moving from one stage of work to another and gaining skill as you build.

You'll start with the parts you received with the first release. Victory magazine, start building the bow of the ship and assemble the first cannon, which was part of the weaponry that terrified the enemy. Over the coming weeks, you will assemble the hull, add the remaining guns, and install deck equipment and quarters for the admiral and his officers. You can then add the crew figures - including Captain Hardy and Nelson himself. Finally, fit the masts, hang the sails and set up the rigging.

Victory ship model size

Length 125 cm
Height 85 cm
Width 45 cm
Scale 1:84

Magazine

Discover the secrets of Victory, the famous British battleship, which took part in the Battle of Trafalgar, and is now located in the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard museum complex in the south of England.

Sections of the magazine Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory":

• – Find out how Admiral Nelson became a national hero, how the life and career of the great naval commander developed, and the significance of his outstanding victories.
• – This section of the Victory magazine allows you to get an idea of ​​the design of Spanish, British, French warships, their weapons, and the peculiarities of constructing wooden sailing ships. The basics of naval tactics and methods of controlling ships are also outlined here.
• – Each magazine has a well-illustrated spread on which you will find descriptions of models of famous ships. A detailed story about the creation of these masterpieces will allow you to understand and appreciate the work of artists and modelers.
• – This section will allow you to build the “Victory” model correctly, detail by detail. it explains all the steps involved in the various stages of assembly and also gives useful tips, which will turn model assembly into an exciting process.

Release schedule

No. 1 – Parts for assembly, DVD with all stages of model assembly – 01/26/2012
No. 2 – Parts for assembly – 02/16/2011
No. 3 – Parts for assembly

How many issues

A total of 120 episodes are planned.