As a rule, when photographing for a passport, you can not smile. Is it true? But no one will forbid us to make beautiful clothes for her, which will cause smiles and admiration, not only yours, but also everyone in front of whom she can light up. More recently, the girls and I created leatherette passport covers using the decoupage technique in live master classes. This is how amazing they turned out.

Do you want to repeat? Then we arm ourselves with patience and read the master class.

Materials and tools

From the materials we need

1. cover
2. acrylic art primer
3. decoupage napkins
4. PVA glue
5. acrylic lacquer
6. brushes, cloths,
7. accessories on request

How to choose a cover for decoupage?

It can be either leatherette or genuine leather. It's up to you. In this case, we decorate leatherette.

It should be soft and preferably without deep embossing. The cover that was used in this master class had a slight embossing, but when processed with sandpaper, it became barely noticeable.

Its color doesn't matter. Pay attention only to the color of the inside. It is better if it matches the tone of your picture.

Primer

Before decorating, the cover must be sanded with sandpaper No. 350-500. Try not to touch the seams, the threads will break.

We protect the inner part with masking tape around the perimeter of the leatherette. After decorating, tape will help get rid of excess napkins and smears of soil. In this photo, the cover is already covered with primer.

Well, that seems to be all, we begin to prime it with acrylic art primer. I say with full confidence that the Sonnet is the best fit. It forms an elastic film after drying and does not burst when the cover is bent.

If the first coat is translucent, reapply another thin coat. At the master class, we got 3 thin layers of soil.

We also paint over the perimeter on the inside.

Let the soil dry well.

Decoupage

Here we used an ordinary decoupage napkin, but in a live master class we decorated it with a printout of a napkin. How to print on napkins is described in detail in this article.

Prepare a napkin for decoupage.

Cut it out a little more than the cover itself. Approximately 1.5 cm allowance.

Separate the third paint layer.

We put it face down on the file and pour a puddle of water on it.

At that very moment, it will begin to stretch and wrinkle.

Drain excess water and stretch with your fingers so that the formed wrinkles disappear.

We apply PVA glue to the leatherette. In this master class, we used the usual universal PVA glue from Lakra.

And now, if we used to put a napkin with a file on a decorated product, now we need to do the opposite.

We take the cover and put it on a napkin, which, in turn, safely decomposed face down on the file.

Let's go through the roller, let the remaining glue come out. You can also take the cover in your hands along with the file and iron it over the file with a cloth so that all air bubbles come out.

Now you need to glue the napkin around the perimeter on the inside.

Here, too, everything is very simple.

We coat with glue, grab a file with a napkin and bend it into the inside. It's exactly the same as shown in the photo.

The file was bent and held over it with a cloth. Repeat the same with the other sides.

We carefully lift the file, make sure that the picture does not reach for it, but remains on the surface to be decorated.

Now take it in your hands and put the inside on a cloth. By no means on paper. It will stick to the picture and ruin the work.

Such rags as in the photo are sold in rolls in hardware stores. Smooth again with a roller. The remaining glue on the inside will be absorbed into the rag, and the napkin will fix even better on the surface.

Now carefully remove the file and put a rag in its place.

We carry out with a roller, leave to dry in a half-bent form.

After drying, you can sand the corners and the resulting folds with sandpaper No. 600-800.

Varnishing

Now it remains to cover with acrylic varnish. Try using the varnish you have on hand, if it doesn't fit and breaks after drying on the fold, then you need to look for a more elastic varnish. I covered my first cover with one of my favorite polishes from Parade. Unfortunately it cracked at the fold. Sadly, I ended up with another Dulux lacquer, which to this day has never failed me.

In this master class, we protected our products with such a varnish. We cover in 3 thin layers the outer part and around the perimeter on the inside.

Final part

Hooray, we are close to completion. Now, after good drying and light sanding, you can cut off the excess parts of the napkin on the inside. With the help of a ruler and a clerical knife, we draw along the place where the masking tape is glued.

Be careful, we only need to cut the napkin. You don't need to press hard with the knife. Gently hooking a piece of adhesive tape, remove it.

Decorate with accessories and voila.

We surprise friends and relatives with an original hand-made gift, and in return we get a lot of smiles and joy. This technique allows you to decorate not only a passport cover, but also a cover for car documents, a military ID and even a phone case.

Agree that this is an interesting gift for both men and women for any occasion? What covers did you get? Leave comments and subscribe for updates. Inspiration to you and decoupage extravaganza!

See you soon on the blog pages. Bye bye.

I finally finished my covers. Out of habit, I recorded everything new. A girl's memory))) I can't say that making a cover was quite easy for me. But if I succeeded - be calm - you will definitely succeed! I really hope that my work will help someone. I tried to describe the process as fully as possible, since I myself did not find a complete description of the process. Picked up the pieces.

I sanded the cover with a rough sandpaper, wiped it with acetone, sealed the back with masking tape.

Acrylic paint for interior and exterior primed the surface in two layers. With intermediate drying at 1 hour.

Previously, I tried to delaminate different papers: I took a postcard, a photograph from the studio, a photo printed on an inkjet printer on plain paper, on photographic paper, a newspaper clipping, a magazine clipping. Images printed in the studio (lacquer curls from the surface) and printed on plain paper(during delamination, the ink on the reverse side curls together with the paper, there is no layer of paper that holds the ink).

I printed pictures for the future cover on a printer on photographic paper (the cheapest), cut it out, applied two layers of aqua varnish, with intermediate drying.

The next day I soaked the pictures in warm water for 20 minutes.

I take off the paper.

I twist what is left with my fingers, with a sponge. The picture should lie tightly on the table. Make sure that the spools are white, if they suddenly take on a color, then the main layer is already twisted. The film is strong enough, but requires some skill. I washed the last pellets under the tap with water.

Let the pictures dry. By the way, it is very difficult to separate the picture from the kitchen surface after drying. I tore one ... Better to dry on a wooden one.

The picture is on a file, I lubricate both surfaces with PVA with water. I smooth the picture with my fingers dipped in that solution.

Now I put the file on the surface of the cover. I smooth it out again.

Well, where without a girl ...

I dry at each stage folded on a rope. It's sad, but the cover with the kids had to be washed off. I did not wait for complete drying and began to cut off the edge. Where the picture was grabbed with fingers, it wrinkled and could not be smoothed out ...

I make other pictures. I repeat all the manipulations, only I immediately glue on aqua-lacquer, without a file, a dry picture. I also smooth it with fingers dipped in PVA. This method is much easier, but in which case nothing can be washed off.

It is much easier to do decoupage with a napkin. I gave the cover to my mother with roses. I didn't even have time to take a picture. It turned out very beautiful ... I process the napkin with hairspray. Dry for 10 minutes.

I look through the paper on both sides. Napkin 3-layer. I take off all the extra layers.

I put the napkin face down on the file.

Lubricate PVA with water. Everything starts to "wrinkle". Fingers in PVA - and smooth out all the wrinkles.

Lubricate the PVA cover and put a file with a napkin on top. I shoot the file, I smooth everything again

I cut off the edge right away. I planned to make all the covers without drawing the edge. So that the view was not homemade. I like it that way. I regretted that I did not remove the corners first. Somewhere they rusted and showed through ...

I cover with two or three layers of aqua varnish. I cover with such a brush for painting. It doesn't leave bubbles like a sponge. Dry only when folded!!! Finishing layer - alkyd varnish.

I take this one for myself: do you see a little corner?

This niece. My kids loved it the most...

Cleaned up this dear... Well, he loves Pin Up pictures!

The result of a week of experiments ...

Back side.

IN Lately became especially fashionable technique decoupage. Thanks to her, you can decorate almost anything. Even a passport cover. Having seen enough of the master classes of needlewomen, I decided to try to make decoupage of the cover for the passport and I. But since I never look for simple solutions, I decided to do not ordinary decoupage using a decorative napkin, but from a printer printout.

My first decoupage experience using printouts disappointed me. I've always liked stylish black and white pictures - for example, such as I have (Artsalana) on the avatar on the Self-sewing forum ... And Audrey Hepburn with a mouthpiece and a thin cigar? "Breakfast at Tiffany's"? Impressive? By the way, the entire Internet is full of needlework with her images - bags, covers, notebooks ...

But as usual, I wanted originality, and to be "not like everyone else." Found this amazing picture on the net.

I thought it would be perfect for a passport cover. But in decoupage, I failed completely! Whether the quality of the colors of my inkjet printer left much to be desired, or my experience, I don’t know. Under the brush with varnish, the black paint floated and left gray streaks on a white background. Splashing hairspray on the image didn't help, nor did it separate black and white. Nothing! I was already desperate to make a decoupage cover for a passport, when by chance on the Internet I came across photos of images for decoupage. French motives! Exactly what is needed!

I liked this iso - simple, stylish, cute, charming, sophisticated - everything that I love! Oh Paris! Oh Jardine!

For beginners in decoupage, like me - perfect! I made decoupage of the passport cover quickly and without hassle. In my opinion, it turned out well.

While my impressions are fresh, I decided to record a small master class, especially since in the process of work I realized that I would not stop at decoupage of a passport cover using a printout on a printer. After all, you don’t have to buy napkins, which sometimes don’t fit the invented image at all!

So, for decoupage, I needed the following tools and materials:

• passport cover;
• photographic paper;
• Polish for hair;
• jet printer;
• scotch;
• nail polish remover;
• sponge for applying paint;
• soft cloth;
• white acrylic paint;
• watercolor pink paint;
• acrylic lacquer;
• decorative napkin;
• PVA glue;
• a set of brushes;
• needle and contrast thread

How to decoupage a passport cover, master class:

To begin with, I measured the width and length of the cover, enlarged the picture to the resulting size with an increase of 0.5-1 cm on each side, printed it on photo paper using a printer, and dried it. Important note– paints should dry well in order to avoid smudges.

Gently sprinkled hairspray on the front and back of the printout. Dried out the picture.

I applied two layers of acrylic varnish on the printout, between applying the layers - drying for at least 6 hours. Works very neat!

The cover of the passport from the wrong side was sealed with adhesive tape around the perimeter.

The front side of the passport cover was degreased with nail polish remover.

I applied two coats of white acrylic paint with a sponge (ordinary washcloth) on the front side of the cover. Dry between coats for about 6 hours.

Now, the most interesting thing ... I pasted the printout in my own way. In master classes, it is suggested to soak the printout for 30 minutes in water. Well… waiting is not my forte. So I went with the printout to the bathroom, where, under a stream of water from the tap, a thin layer of varnished printout was quickly picked up by my fingernail and carefully separated from the unnecessary paper. I read reviews about this work - they say it's difficult. I've done it several times - it's easy! Maybe my paper is super cheap, layered?

Again, it is advised to roll up excess paper on printouts. Tried. The result is terrible, in my opinion! I did not do any more unnecessary manipulations.

Trying not to breathe, I carefully glued the passport cover onto the passport cover previously smeared with PVA glue. Gently smoothed with a dry cloth.

An important note - you need to stick the printout on the folded cover in order to avoid creases and gusts on the cover. Half done! Let the cover dry well.

Trim off excess paper with nail scissors.

Covered the cover with 2 layers of acrylic varnish with drying for about 6 hours between layers.

Due to the lack of pink acrylic in the house, I decided to make it myself. To do this, I mixed acrylic paints of red, white, black and blue. The result was a color that only remotely resembles pink ... With a sponge, she applied the paint with patting movements along the edge of the cover.

Then she took a brush with coarse bristles, dipped it in white paint and applied acrylic to the edges in such movements as are done to clean the brush of paint. I don’t know how to explain it correctly, but such movements are done every time during a manicure, before applying varnish to the nails. I hope you understand what I mean. With this application, the border is not a solid line, but a little uneven, fleecy. Dry layer well. (sorry for the photo quality)

Since, I repeat, there was no pink acrylic paint in the house, and buying for a border is an unjustified waste, I remembered that my son has a pink color in watercolors. I mixed a few drops of watercolor with white acrylic and voila! Pink paint after such manipulations I got!

I applied a second layer of pink paint over the white border in the same movements, but without completely covering the white layer.

I applied two coats of acrylic varnish to the almost finished cover.

This could be the end of the master class. I turned the cover over (it's good that the wrong side was sealed!):

I peeled off the adhesive tape and ... The sticky spots from the adhesive tape were not removed! Thank you Chinese adhesive tape manufacturers! Therefore, I decided at the same time to decorate the wrong side of the passport using the decoupage technique. Everything is easy here! We substitute the paper under the edges of the cover so as not to stain the rest of the surface. Degrease the surface, apply a layer of acrylic.

In several places, ugly bald patches formed, which it was decided to eliminate with a decorative napkin.

I pasted strips of napkins on the still raw layer of acrylic (separate two layers of white ones), cut off the excess paper carefully with nail scissors. Glued with PVA glue, diluted 1 to 1 with water. The napkin is very thin, stretches under the brush. Dry the napkin layer with the printing movements with a soft cloth.

She applied a coat of varnish. Dried up.

I applied a layer of white paint with a sponge along the edge of the wrong side of the cover, and then a little pink. For what? To make the picture fit more organically. And to be honest, I don’t know why, I saw decoupage girls do it.

The final chord was missing, which was the contrasting bright threads laid along the edge of the cover with a “needle forward” seam. I applied another layer of varnish for fixation.

The result is such a cover for a passport, made using the decoupage technique from a printed file on a printer.

Here is the inside:

Not exactly a Parisian theme, rather ours, Ukrainian - wild flowers ... But on the other hand, if you think about it - you should not forget about the Motherland, even if you are in Paris ... A philosophical cover, however, turned out ...

Having decorated an ordinary passport cover using the decoupage technique, you can get an original thing both for personal use and for a gift to relatives. Even if you have never tried yourself in this technique, with our master class you are sure! - you will succeed. Given the variety of three-layer napkins on sale (they are used for decorating using decoupage technique), you can choose a pattern to your liking.

To decoupage your passport cover, you will need:

finished cover;

napkin;

white and black acrylic paint;

PVA glue;

sandpaper;

tassel;

In work, it is better to use a “under the skin” cover, since the paint lays on it better than on oilcloth. After gluing the napkin, the recess from the embossing on the cover remains a little noticeable, but these are already trifles.

We apply two layers of white acrylic paint using foam rubber, drying the surface well after the first painting. A good surface for a napkin is obtained if you use moisture-resistant paint for interior and exterior use.

When stained with foam rubber, the surface turns out to be rough, so after drying, we sand it with sandpaper, making the base for gluing the napkin smoother.

Carefully separate the layers of the selected napkin. In the work we use only the top - color.

We cut out the fragments necessary for gluing from a napkin according to the size of the cover.

Glue with water. To do this, with a slightly moistened brush, we put a wet spot in the middle of the napkin motif. We expand it from the center to the edges, periodically wetting the brush in water. To avoid wrinkles on the napkin, we slightly tighten it in the process of wetting from the center to the edges.

Without waiting for the napkin to dry, we lubricate the entire surface with glue diluted in half with water.

After drying the glue with black acrylic paint, using a foam rubber sponge, paint over the ends and the fold of the cover.

We cover the surface with acrylic varnish for decoupage 3-4 times with intermediate drying. To dry, the cover is best hung on a stretched rope in a bent form. Drying time depends on the glue and varnish you choose. After drying, the surface of the cover should not stick.

If there is a sticking effect, you need to choose another varnish.

After drying, the passport covers decorated using the decoupage technique are ready for use.

Irina Golub specially for the site

Do-it-yourself passport cover decoupage in this master class can be mastered even by a beginner.

As a result, you will get a designer thing that will cause admiration and good envy of others. For all its beauty, the cover is very practical. Such a cute accessory is not a shame to give to a close friend or sister. The decor is easy to diversify and change by choosing other elements for decoration. The technique is quite simple, so you will definitely get the result, as in the photo!

Tools and materials for work

In order to make decoupage of a passport cover with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Cover for documents;
• decoupage card;
• napkin for decoupage;
• sandpaper;
• masking tape;
• PVA glue;
• white acrylic paint;
• sponge or piece of foam rubber;
• acrylic lacquer;
• brushes (flat synthetic and brush with natural bristles of medium hardness, a small brush for painting);
• water;
• acrylic paint in gold and bronze;
• dots for manicure;
• narrow lace (width 1.5 cm, length 80 cm);
• transparent glue "Moment-crystal" and rubber gloves;
• toothpick;
• clean rag.

Cover surface preparation

When purchasing a decor cover, choose one that has there were no prints or voluminous inscriptions. The cover can be any, but its surface should be smooth or with a very inexpressive texture. Factory inscriptions applied with paint are easily washed off with nail polish remover.

Before decoupage, a leatherette or leather passport cover must be carefully sanded with delicate sandpaper. This is done in order to provide better adhesion of the soil to the surface. With a glossy cover, you need to bring down the shine as much as possible. Degrease the surface with alcohol. Cover the back with painter's tape.

Priming the base before decoupage

Mix in equal proportions a small amount of white acrylic paint and PVA glue. With a sponge (a piece of foam rubber), apply a thin layer, gently driving the primer into the surface. Wait until completely dry and apply 1-2 more layers.


With a flat synthetic brush, apply 1-2 coats of acrylic lacquer. Drying time of each layer is 1-2 hours.

On a note: Control the quality of the varnish by holding the work in the light at a convenient angle to see the unfinished areas. Apply varnish in one direction. Do not pick up too much varnish on the brush, try to make a thin and even layer.

After each sanding, carefully wipe the surface from dust. Before applying a new layer, carefully inspect the work - if the villi are stuck in the varnish, streaks have formed - treat the problem areas with sandpaper. Remember to thoroughly rinse the brush after each coat of paint or varnish. Sand the surface well with delicate sandpaper, give it an even and smooth appearance.

Surface decoration with a napkin

There are several methods for gluing a napkin. In this work, perhaps the most classical, one of the first ways.

If you are taking your first steps in, be prepared for the fact that not everything will work out the first time. The napkin can be naughty - tear, dissolve in glue, reach for a brush, etc. In these cases, you will have to remove a fragment of the napkin, wipe the surface and start over. Much, of course, depends on the quality of the napkin, and skill and understanding of the nuances come with experience. Therefore, proceed to this stage, armed with patience and faith in success.

In a small plate, dilute PVA glue and water in proportions of 1: 1. If the glue is too thin, add less water. You will also need a brush with a pile of medium length and stiffness (you can use a fan brush), a clean rag.

Take measurements of the cover and cut out two pieces of napkin with scissors. It is best to choose a napkin with a pattern that can be easily restored in case it gets damaged during the gluing process. Peel off the napkin and remove the bottom layers, you only need the first layer with the pattern. Place the tissue on the cover, smooth it well and hold it with your fingers.

Apply glue liberally from the center to the edges. Try to avoid the appearance of wrinkles, immediately smooth them out. Do not apply strong pressure and try not to coat the same area many times - this can damage the decor. Very well drawing a napkin with your fingers, wiping off excess glue with a clean cloth.

If a small area of ​​the drawing is badly damaged, delete it and continue working - you can restore it later. Small folds can also be sanded and leveled. It is often difficult to stick a large fragment of a napkin perfectly - without creases, folds and damaged areas.

When wet, the napkin may stretch and extend beyond the edges of the cover - they can be processed after drying.

Leave the work to dry naturally(drying with a hair dryer may deform the cover). When the glue begins to dry, you can gently smooth out the most visible folds and creases.

Processing a glued napkin

So, the napkin is glued, you can continue to decoupage the leather passport cover and begin to eliminate defects.

Cover the work with two layers of acrylic varnish. Dry each layer well (1-2 hours). Start sanding, giving Special attention wrinkles and irregularities. As a rule, they disappear and become almost invisible.

Remove the napkin fragment protruding beyond the edge. Reapply varnish if necessary and repeat the procedure. Now you can restore the damaged areas. From the remaining pieces of the top layer of the napkin, tear out the missing fragments.

Place them on the surface and carefully glue (for convenience, you can use tweezers). Smooth the motif with your fingers so that it merges with the main pattern.

Note: when tearing out a fragment, uneven and soft edges are formed that blend more easily with the existing background, while a fragment cut with scissors can create a patched effect due to clear and even edges. Lacquer the cover again with two coats of varnish and sand gently.

Working with a decoupage card

Decoupage cards are convenient and easy to use. In this work, we used card with a density of 40–45 g/m2. A card with such a density is quite thin, but does not stretch or tear when pasted. It does not require additional processing, it is enough to coat it well with glue. If the density of the card is higher, before sticking, the fragment used must be soaked briefly in water and gently blotted with a clean towel.

Using thin scissors, carefully cut out the medallion with the picture. Before you start gluing, prepare the background. On the front of the cover, mark the position of the medallion, taking into account that the edges and the fold will be pasted over with lace. Take measurements (it is better if the background size is 1 mm smaller than the image size) and carefully draw a circle with a compass. Paint over it with two layers of white paint, dry, sand.

Apply PVA glue diluted with water on a white background, attach a picture. Gently glue the image, expelling air bubbles. Top with another layer of glue. Smooth the picture, remove excess glue with a soft cloth.

Dry well. Now you need to hide the transition border of the decoupage card. Apply 3-6 coats of varnish, sanding every third coat in between, paying special attention to the edges of the pattern.

Making a picture in a frame

When the quality of the coating suits you, you can slightly highlight the medallion by decorating it with a simple frame.

At this stage, you will need a dots for manicure, a very thin brush and acrylic paint (Old Gold and Antique Bronze, but other suitable colors can be used). Dilute the paint quite a bit with water so that it gently picks up on the dots and lays down without lumps.

If you have not encountered dots before, work with it on a piece of paper. Dip the tip of the tool into the paint and make a few dots. Each subsequent point will be less than the previous one. To draw the same dots, you need to wipe the dots with a piece of paper towel each time (unused white layers of the napkin will fit).

Carefully outline the ornament with a pencil and paint it with a thin brush, draw dots.

Apply final coats of varnish. Examine the work carefully. If there are defects, carefully remove them with sandpaper and apply a second coat of varnish. Carefully remove the masking tape.

If paint or varnish does get on the inside, wipe them off. A melamine sponge works great. Possible irregularities on the edges can be "sawed off" with a piece of hard sandpaper.

Lace is not only decoration

The fold and the edges of the cover are the most vulnerable places in products this kind. The cover will be exposed to increased use, and in order to maximize its service life, it is necessary protect problem areas. Already in the course of work in places of a bend paint and varnish layers can begin to crack.

There is a way to decorate covers, in which the folds and edges are worked out to a minimum, and then these surfaces are tinted with contrasting paint, creating smooth transition to the main background.
In this work, lace is used - it will not only complement the romantic orientation of the product, but also avoid unwanted cracking and peeling of the coating.

You will need lace, transparent Moment glue, a toothpick, rubber gloves (optional).

First, glue the lace around the perimeter of the cover. Attach the lace to the edges so that most of it is on the front side. Start gluing near the fold, stepping back about 0.5 cm from it on the left side, and do not glue the lace about 1 cm on the right (front) side.

Glue the lace in a way convenient for you - applying glue from a tube pointwise or in a thin strip, you can also apply glue with a toothpick. Make folds in the corners, glue them well and press firmly.

Do the same on the inside of the product. Now glue the lace on the fold of the cover. Cut off the desired length with a little extra to hide the ends of the lace on the inside of the cover.

Gently glue the lace on the front, fold the cover and glue the decor on the back. Trim the ends with sharp scissors and glue to the inside. Leave until completely dry. To prevent the lace from becoming very dirty during operation, you can cover it with acrylic varnish.

Having mastered the manufacture of such original covers, you can even make them to order. Read about, and if you already have something to put up for sale, post your products in our group on Odnoklassniki.

Master class prepared Natalya Guseva especially for the online magazine "Women's Hobbies". We recommend mastering decoupage with a printout using an example, as well as making a beautiful plate.