The issue of responsible consumption in 2020 is sharp. In an era of overproduction, young audiences are increasingly thinking about how to buy smarter, and often look at things from archival collections and second-hand stores - in search of quality and, paradoxically, novelty. A recent interview with Virgil Abloh for Dazed is indicative: in response to a question about the fate of streetwear, the designer replied that inevitable death awaits him, and vintage will become the new major trend. Let's find out if this is true and what awaits the used clothing market in 2020.

Text: Anna Aristova

It cannot be said that vintage and second-hand stores burst into our lives overnight - they have always aroused curiosity. Rarely have interviews in our “Wardrobe” column gone without mentioning treasures unearthed in some nameless European thrift store during a regular trip abroad. But speaking about second-hand stores, we always regret that the majority of Russians still treat such things not with admiration, but with caution and even disgust, and more often ask whether “it is possible to become infected with something” through such clothes.

But in last years The situation with second-hand stores has begun to change, and if you suddenly find yourself in a dispute over second-hand clothing, you can safely say that this is a huge, perhaps the most ambitious niche in the luxury market. And these are not just big words - the numbers speak about it. Thus, in a study by the consulting firm BCG “BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight study”, conducted among twelve thousand buyers, it is said that although resale (that is, stores that resell used clothes and accessories) has long remained in the shadow of the luxury market, “ By 2021, this market niche will grow to $36 billion, growing at an average rate of 12% each year and increasing its share of total personal luxury goods to approximately 9%.”

It is noteworthy that the growth rate of the luxury market over the same period of time is projected to be only 3% per year. And if we evaluate the situation in retrospect, a study conducted by GlobalData emphasizes that in the United States, the growth rate of the resale market over the past three years has exceeded the growth rate of the luxury market by twenty-one times - and there are no plans to slow down. Needless to say, resale is the future?

The rapid growth of resale can be explained by several reasons. The most obvious of them is the trend towards responsible consumption. A new generation of consumers living in an era of overproduction takes the environment much more seriously, and their beliefs often become the driver of purchasing decisions. General dissatisfaction with the less-than-sustainable practices of fashion brands reached its peak in 2018, when the BBC revealed that British brand Burberry was burning unsold goods - according to the publication, the total value of destroyed clothing, accessories and perfumes in 2017 was 28 million pounds ( Previously, according to rumors, Louis Vuitton was seen in a similar thing). Outraged by the brand's policy, social network users announced a boycott of Burberry - in response to harsh criticism, representatives of the brand announced that they would stop destroying products and would donate items to charity, and would also enter into a contract with the Elvis & Kresse company, which takes unused materials for the production of new accessories.

Luxury brands burn unsold products just to maintain their notorious exclusivity, and for new products, some of which face the already mentioned fate, prices rise every year - needless to say, the new generation has begun to turn away from new things towards used ones?

Looking for more environmentally friendly ways to replenish their wardrobes and quench their consumer cravings, shoppers have turned to stores that buy and resell second-hand clothing and accessories - often offering not only second-hand items, but also items that have never been worn by their former owners. . “The advent of Instagram, Uberization, the abandonment of ownership and the growing importance of responsible production and consumption have become the factors that have definitively changed the consumer habits of Generation Z and Millennials. All this created ideal conditions for the growth of the resale market. We know that today most people will wear an item less than ten times before putting it up for sale,” says Max Bittner, CEO of Vestiaire Collective, one of the most famous resale platforms.

The second, quite logical reason for the growth of resale was its profitability. Vestiaire Collective, The RealReal, Vinted and other similar stores often offer items at deep discounts. Let's speak frankly: if such things do not yet show signs of wear, why go to a regular store and buy an item for the cost of a car, when you can buy it much cheaper on a resale platform and wear it with no less pleasure?

Here one could argue that going to the flagship of Dior and Gucci is a whole ritual, and when shopping at Matchesfashion, you can feel your involvement in luxury without leaving home, but here we come to the third reason - today resale platforms no longer resemble a stripped-down version of luxury online stores (as was previously the case with the Net-A-Porter The Outnet outlet) - in terms of the quality of the same pictures and content, they are almost equal. For example, on The RealReal, a selection of trendy items is compiled by editor Man Repeller, and on Resee (by the way, launched by ex-editors of Vogue and Self-Service) you can find beautiful editorials and selections of famous fashion stylists like Self-Service co-founder Suzanne Keller, right the hands of the art director of Louis Vuitton and the founder of Mastermind magazine Marie-Amelie Sauvé, as well as the creative director of TSUM Natasha Goldenberg.

“If I were a fashion brand and I saw that the second-hand clothing market was growing twenty-one times faster than the overall fashion market, I would immediately ask myself the question: ‘How can I break the bank too?'” notes retail consultant Doug Stevens. If fashion brands cannot overtake resale in terms of growth rate, then why not shake his hand and start working together? After all, this way you can not only save things from destruction and illegal sale, but also (oh yes) attract new buyers.

One of the first to think about the benefits of a circular economy (that is, based on the renewal of resources) was Stella McCartney, who in 2018 announced a partnership with The RealReal, within which the designer offered anyone who sold her item on the site a coupon for one hundred dollars - it could be spent in Stella McCartney stores around the world and online. A similar model was adapted by Farfetch - in 2019, the online store launched a Second Life program (though still in pilot mode), under which users can put up their designer bags for sale and spend the money they earn... on Farfetch.

Currently, due to the unstable situation in the country, more and more people are trying to save money. One category of the population saves a significant portion wages on food, the other on clothes. Sometimes, of course, you may not buy an extra pair of trousers, but what to do if the previous ones were completely worn out?

The essence of cheap shops

Not everyone can buy a new wardrobe item; in this case, second-hand stores come to the rescue, where for a minimal price you can buy not only ordinary trousers or a sweater for every day, but also clothes from expensive brands and unique items.

Why "second-hand"?

Moreover, over the past three years, the resale industry has grown faster than the retail clothing market, data shows social polls. According to a friend of mine and quite an experienced retailer in this area, people like to shop at second-hand stores because it makes it easier to create their own, different style. “People like the story of finding a piece from a real designer,” a friend explained. - Some second-hand clothing is more unique than what we see in mainstream fashion today. Often these clothes have interesting story, which people feel can add value to their style,” she added. While the hunt for these trendy items can be quite exciting, there are tips that can help you avoid unexpected expenses “just because something is cheap.”

Subtleties and nuances

A friend advises everyone to ask themselves before making a purchase: “Can I combine this item with three to five items of clothing that I already have in my closet? Should I get a custom makeover for this item? How much will it cost? will it take up space in my wardrobe? Do I like it?" Of course, it makes no sense to buy pants with a broken zipper, which must later be hemmed to fit and repaired.

Six types of clothes

Plus, she points out six types of clothing you should never buy from second-hand stores. Here they are:

1. Clothes or shoes that require alteration. “Don't force yourself to buy things that don't fit your size. The same goes for buying a coat that is too big for you. Of course, some minor repairs that don't require too much financial investment, such as replacing a zipper, shouldn't deter you from buying one. For example, if you find a pair of vintage shoes that impress you but are half the size of what you usually wear, it's realistic to expect them to take up space at the bottom of your closet and not get worn,” the friend explained.
2. Dyed clothes or dirty clothes. If you notice stains already in the store, there's likely nothing you can do about it. It is better to avoid purchasing such items of clothing.
3. Worn shoes that require major repairs. The only thing you should replace on shoes you buy at a thrift store is the insole. All other investments are excluded. And indeed, according to personal experience I can note that just a few years ago I bought boots for autumn walks in used condition for mere pennies. One boot was slightly damaged near the toe. If you buy it inexpensively, you can glue it on. This was the main idea; in the end, I was unable to carry out the repair work efficiently myself. And in the shoe workshop they charged me pretty decent money for this trifle. So the shoes came out several times more expensive than the preliminary price.
4. Luxury items you know nothing about. Even at second-hand clothing stores, you may overpay for some items just because they are labeled as designer or vintage. But their actual price may be much lower. Check on time.
5. Designer items that have offset stitches. This is usually the first sign that this is a copy and not an original designer item.
6. Expensive things that don't look worth the money. Sometimes sellers artificially inflate the cost of their goods by telling lies. Don't fall for these tricks!

07:00 15.08.2019

In our country, joint procurement is not regulated or governed by any special legislative acts other than general laws on entrepreneurial activity. Everything is based on personal initiative and agreements of buyers. the site understands what the benefits of joint purchases are and what the risks are.

What are the benefits of joint shopping?

Individual and joint purchases differ in much the same way as retail and wholesale. In the most profitable option, participants in a joint purchase purchase the product at a wholesale price without a store markup.

Therefore:

• the main benefit of participants in joint procurement is low price goods (services), sometimes they pay half the retail price or even less.
• The seller's benefit is lower costs for selling the product.

Joint purchases have other advantages:

• inexperienced buyers follow the leaders and are less afraid of being deceived when paying;
• the choice of seller and product is easier, the client buys the same thing as others;
• easier and cheaper delivery of purchased goods to the consumer;
• Negotiations with the seller are conducted by the group leader, who is usually the most competent.

Photo is for illustrative purposes, source: pixabay.com

The benefits of joint purchasing for the seller are that:

• there is no need to waste resources on working with individual customers;
• complex issues are easier to resolve with a group representative;
• Participants in a joint procurement search for each other themselves.

The last point is especially important for sellers, because... The market for many goods and services is redundant; the main effort falls on finding new customers.

What are the types of joint purchases?

An example of a joint purchase is the purchase of a cow or pig for meat for several families. Or a joint shopping tour, when participants jointly pay for travel or goods.

However, now the main territory for joint procurement has become the Internet: thematic sites, forums, social media. Therefore, we will further consider this option.

How are joint purchases organized on the Internet?

The general scheme of joint purchases is something like this:

1. The initiator of a joint purchase finds a seller of some product or service.
2. Finds out wholesale prices and conditions for their provision. The usual pattern is that the larger the purchase volume, the lower the price.
3. Clarifies other aspects: required assortment, ordering options, terms and methods of payment, delivery, etc.
4. Having determined the seller's conditions, the initiator of the joint purchase looks for other buyers. Most often via the Internet or through personal connections.
5. The one who started the process becomes the group leader and organizer of the joint purchase. He assigns and explains the terms and conditions.
6. The group leader then collects the participants' orders, creates a general order and passes it on to the seller.
7. Having received consent for delivery, the organizer collects money and transfers it to the seller.
8. He arranges delivery and receives the goods.
9. Informs group members where purchases will be distributed.

Photo is for illustrative purposes, source: pixabay.com

An important point is that organizers of joint procurement most often work for a fee. Their commission is added to the amount that group members raise for a joint purchase.

This is the general and most common scheme, but there are other options. Organizers do not always receive remuneration from participants; sometimes group members pay directly to the supplier.

Stable communities emerge from one-time joint purchases; their organizers receive regular income and create thematic websites and groups on social networks. Group leaders become a kind of resellers, build relationships with sellers, and actively advertise their services.

Purchasing slang

In recent years, a certain subculture of joint procurement has emerged. New definitions have appeared that do a good job of explaining the nuances of such purchases:

• JV - joint purchase.
• The organizer of the joint venture is the leader of the group.
• A joint venture participant is an ordinary member of the group.
• The head of the joint venture is the assistant to the Organizer of the joint venture.
• A moderator is someone who regulates communication within the joint venture on websites and forums.
• Row - an assortment of goods for mandatory purchase. This is the name for a line of clothing or shoe sizes. The series may concern other parameters: weight, quantity, etc.
• Closed row or assembled row - a state when all sizes are distributed among procurement participants.
• Mis-sort - a product of the wrong size, color, etc., sent by the seller by mistake.
• To be too big/too small - to differ in size from the standards.
• Stop - the moment of termination of orders in the joint venture.
• A successful joint venture is a successfully completed purchase, without complaints from the participants.
• Addition - purchased items for some reason did not reach the consumer. They are trying to sell them to someone else, to “place them.”
• Minimum - the minimum possible purchase amount.
• Org. fee - the remuneration of the organizer of the joint venture and funds to compensate for its expenses (the usual amount is 15-20%).
• Payment - payment for goods already received by the Organizer.
• Prepayment - preliminary collection of money for the joint venture.
• Pre-order - ordering something that is in the seller’s offer, but has not yet appeared in stock.
• Redemption - transfer of what was purchased to the organizer of the joint venture.
• Analysis of goods - checking what was received by the organizer, checking with the list of orders.
• Distribution - distribution of purchases to joint venture participants.
• Free warehouse - goods for free sale.
• TR - transportation costs for delivery of goods.
• Boast - customer reviews, with product photos.
• ChS and SS are respectively black and gray lists of joint venture participants who violated the rules.

Such terms are born on forums, remembered and transferred to other communities. It is advisable to understand them for communication within the joint venture.