The highlight of any realistic bouquet of polymer clay are berries - their nature has created a great variety.

Today we will learn how to sculpt blackcurrant, which is a universal addition to flowers due to its elegant color, just like or from polymer clay. If red raspberry is unlikely to look in a composition of cold tones, then blackcurrant from HF will come in handy in any company.

Stage 1. Currant berries from polymer clay

Step 1. From a self-hardening black modeling mass, we roll a small ball - the size of currant berries.

Step 2 We pierce the black ball with a toothpick approximately to the middle and leave the future berry to dry.

Step 3 On the back of the toothpick, to save space, we also leave a berry.

Step 4 Roll as many balls as you need. There are about 12 of them in one branch of currant and all of them are of different sizes! We leave these blanks to dry so that they do not touch any surfaces.

Step 5 We prepare future stems: we run in a green wire, we make holes on the sides. We also roll very thin short wires. And we proceed to gluing the latter into dried black berries.

Step 6 We apply a little super-glue Moment to the tip of the wire, and then insert it into the hole left by the toothpick. We do this with all the berries.

Step 7 We take a piece of self-hardening clay for ceramic floristry in light brown color. We prepare again glue Moment and scissors.

Step 8 We pinch off a tiny piece of brown clay, grease the black berry in the place where the currant has umm ... well, such a dry little thing. What is it called? Peduncle? Nerds, don't throw slippers at me

In general, we glue this brown crumb to the black berry. And then we cut it with scissors so that it looks like a real currant.

Step 9 We receive such blanks

Step 10 Here are how many

Step 11 We take the stems and drip a little super-glue into the holes made.

Step 12 We glue the prepared berries from polymer clay on the stem into the holes in the stem.

Step 13 We glue in turn in a checkerboard pattern, starting with the smallest berries and ending with the largest ones.

Step 14 It turns out such sprigs of blackcurrant.

Step 15 Here are how many.

Stage 2. Currant from cold porcelain - leaf molding

Step 16 We prepare green HF, wires rolled in the same clay, scissors, PVA glue, texture sheets for polymer clay (that is, currants, but I have raspberries).

Step 17 We pinch off a piece of mass for modeling, we give the shape of a ball.

Step 18 We roll out the clay in the file using a rolling pin or a stack.

Step 19 We get HF from the file.

Step 20 We put the future sheet on the mold, press it with a finger. How to make such a texture, I described in step-by-step pictures.

Step 21 We cover the sheet with the second side of the mold, press it with a finger so that the print is well transmitted.

Step 22 We get a sheet blank with a two-sided imprint of veins. Now it needs to be shaped.

Step 23 Using scissors, cut the edges of the sheet so that it looks like a real currant. I didn't get it right

Step 24 Here's one. It looks like a raspberry. But we will assume that this is a special kind of currant

Step 25 We roll the edges of the leaf with a stack, giving it a waviness.

Step 26 This is how the green handsome turned out.

Step 27 Gently bend the sheet along the median line.

Step 28 We glue the prepared wires (we grease their end with PVA and press it a little into the clay).

Step 29 We pinch the clay from below under the wire like a dumpling. So that the wire is not visible from the front (upper) side of the sheet.

It turned out such an almost living sheet.

Step 30 We tint the sheet with brown and green oil paint to your taste.

Step 31 We cover the blackcurrant berries from cold porcelain with polymer clay varnish so that it does not go on the brown tops. Only black berries should shine. It is better to use a matte varnish - live currants do not have a glossy sheen.

Step 32 But the currant is ready. Now you can decorate a bouquet with it or put it in a small vase, creating a solo composition.

Step 32. Finished polymer clay blackcurrant

I hope this MK for currants will come in handy for beginners.

All inspiration and more flowers!

To make such a branch, we need:
- epoxy resin;
- baked polymer clay;
- self-hardening polymer clay or " cold porcelain";
- wire;
- oil and acrylic paints;
- glue;
- disposable container for mixing components.

1. First, consider a live branch of currant, pay attention to the size and location of the berries, the size of the seeds.

2. I make currant berries from epoxy resin. In this case, I use a regular resin and hardener 921 (op), which means optical, i.e. the most transparent and colorless. The instructions say 2:1 mixing ratio - 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. Use gloves as a safety measure.

3. First pour the resin into a dry disposable container, then the hardener.

4. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spatula or skewer. I do this for a few minutes. I recommend pouring into a similar dry container and mix again. The resin may not cure as a result of incorrect proportions or poor mixing of the components.

5. Epoxy resin takes about a day to dry completely. During this time, it goes through several stages - from a fluid to a solid state.
We are interested in the so-called "rubber stage". Empirically, I found out that such a state of the resin occurs from the 5th hour of solidification, it no longer sticks and does not stain the hands, and within about 1.5 hours the resin can be given the desired shape without much difficulty.
So, on a smooth surface, for example, a lid from food container apply the resin in separate drops.

6. We have time to prepare the necessary details. For the bones, we need baked polymer clay of a suitable color. If you use self-hardening clay or "cold porcelain" for the bones, then I recommend making the bones in advance, no later than a day in advance - this is necessary in order for such clay to dry. Otherwise, the resin may become cloudy upon contact with moisture.

7. I knead the clay, roll it into a thin sausage and cut it with a clerical knife. I bake the bones on foil in the oven at t 120 degrees for 5-8 minutes.

8. A couple of hours have passed. The resin thickens, looks like viscous honey. Choose one drop and periodically check its condition with a toothpick - this will help you understand when the stage we are interested in comes.

9. A little more than 5 hours have passed. The resin has entered the "rubber stage". On top of the drops we apply bones made of polymer clay.

10. I separate the drop from the surface. It is so plastic that it can be pulled into a thread, it no longer gets your hands dirty.

11. I turn the drop with the bones inside.

12. In the palm of my hand I roll a ball of resin. For tiny berries I use one small drop, for larger berries I add 2 or 3 drops. I spread the balls to dry on a foam rubber sponge.
IMPORTANT! While the "rubber stage" lasts, the resin ball may "float" and lose its shape. Within 1.5 hours I control this process, periodically rolling up future berries. Closer to the 7th hour, you will already feel that the berry has hardened so much that it will no longer be possible to give another shape.

13. In order for the currant branch to look as realistic as possible, it is important not only to make the berries transparent. For pedicels, I use thin wire. Here, by the way, floristic wire in a white winding No. 33 or a wire for beads, which must first be sanded, will do.

14. If you are using a wire for beads, then already at this stage you can fix a piece of wire in the resin by gently sticking it into the ball.

15. If a wire is used in the winding, it will be difficult to carefully insert it into the resin. In this case, you need to wait until the ball is completely cured and make a hole with a thin drill. Secure the wire with super glue.

16. Leave the beads until the final curing.

17. In order to paint the berries, I use Neapolitan Beige acrylic paint diluted in half with water. Brush "0" I train on different surfaces.

18. I paint the berries from the center of the top to the wire.

19. In order for the berries to acquire a beautiful color and gloss, I use stained glass paints. I mix red and yellow colors for a warm shade of berries and be sure to add thinner, since stained glass paints have a fairly concentrated color. (pictured red) stained glass paint and diluent)

20. Having mixed the paints in a suitable container (perfume cap), I dip the berries and collect drops of paint on the edge of the cap.

21. Turning the berry over, carefully remove the excess paint with a napkin.

22. Drying. Paint thinner dries faster. After 2 hours, the berries can be picked up without fear of getting dirty.

23. For the stem and leaves, I will need a piece of "cold porcelain", painted in a delicate green color. I paint clay with oil paints of yellow and green colors.

24. I am preparing the stem to which I will attach the berries. To do this, with a piece of green clay, I first roll the wire with my fingers.

25. Then, on a hard, flat surface, I roll the wire with clay, pressing it with force.

26. I continue to paint the clay, adding brown oil paints. We will need this piece of clay to make berry tails.

27. In the corner file, using a ruler, stack or nails, I thin out a small piece of clay.

28. I lay a thin layer of a napkin on half of the rolled clay, having previously exfoliated it. With the help of a fingernail, I "grind" the napkin to the clay.

29. I detach the clay from the corner folder and “roll” it on the other side of the napkin. It turned out the thinnest layer of clay, reinforced with a paper napkin.

30. I cut off small squares, in an amount equal to the number of berries.

31. With wet fingers on the tip of the stack, I form future ponytails. You can cut the ponytails with scissors to enhance the effect.

32. Similarly, using a napkin, I roll out green clay. I cut out a strip about 0.5 cm wide. I cut off tiny elongated triangles from the strip - these are future stipules.

33. Using super glue, I attach the tail to the center of the top of the berry.

34. I cut off the excess.

35. I paint the wire with a mixture of acrylic paints yellow and green colors and latex glue.
IMPORTANT! Do not forget that the wire for beads must be pre-sanded.

36. The clay on the stem has dried up a little. With a needle in a spiral, I make small holes 1-2 mm deep, pushing the clay away.

37. I strengthen the berries, starting with the smallest. Having previously cut the wire to the required length, I dip the edge of the wire 1-2 mm into the Super Moment Gel instant glue. And I immediately paste it into the prepared holes, pressing the wire with a needle. Above the place where the wire is attached, I fix a tiny stipule on any glue.

38. I continue to fix the berries of a larger size. Do not forget to close the place of attachment with a stipule.

39. When all the berries are in place, with the help of pliers I give the branch a beautiful bend.

40. I cut a piece of "clay napkin" as in the picture below.

41. With the help of teip tape, I attach the previous part at the base of the branch. Thus, I imitate the dried up buds of failed branches.

42. I roll out a piece of green clay in the form of a suitable mold. I'll give you an invoice.

43. A piece of wire, previously rolled in green clay, is glued into the central vein of the future sheet.

44. Using scissors, I shape the sheet.

45. When the sheet dries, I give it a brighter green color with oil paint.

46. ​​I emphasize the edges with red oil paint. With a piece of green clay and water I "blur" the central vein.

47. First, I fasten one sheet with teip tape.

48. Then the second sheet. The branch can be rolled in with clay.

49. Such a branch can be used in an interior composition or as a decoration.

Somehow like this! I made a gooseberry sprig in the same way.
I wish you creative success!
When copying the master class, please refer to the source.

A small branch of red currant (in the future it became a brooch). The berries are made of transparent polymer clay, the leaves and twig are made of cold porcelain (self-hardening polymer clay). The whole process was not filmed, unfortunately, I didn’t think that anything would work out at all, it was just an experiment. (9 photos)

Of course, I missed the color of the leaves, mixed too much paint, it was necessary to make it yellow and only then dry it with green paint

Here is an approximate set for making such a branch. Transparent clay, ordinary cold porcelain, beaded wire, floral tape for assembling all the details, molds for imprinting texture.

I used sesame seeds as seeds. Wrapping it like a filling in pies, then roll the berry and insert the wire.

It turns out such berries on legs, dry for about a day, becoming completely transparent. The wire is further rolled in with a thin layer of green clay.

I have home-made molds for the texture imprint, made from building silicone, taken from a live currant leaf. Then the wire is glued into the leaf and rolled in with clay, forming a leg.

After drying, I paint the berries with a paste from the core of a red ballpoint pen diluted in glossy varnish. Can be covered with stained glass paint, and then varnished on top.

This is work, I'm just delighted, and I also have time to snap off 50 photos, worthy of admiration! What do I give up! Quote from Elena Grebennikova.

In In order to make such a branch, we need:
- epoxy resin;
- baked polymer clay;
- self-hardening polymer clay or "cold porcelain";
- wire;
- oil and acrylic paints;
- glue;
- disposable container for mixing components.

B 1. To begin with, consider a live branch of currant, pay attention to the size and location of the berries, the size of the seeds.

B 2. I make currant berries from epoxy resin. In this case, I use a regular resin and hardener 921 (op), which means optical, i.e. the most transparent and colorless. The instructions say 2:1 mixing ratio - 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. Use gloves as a safety measure.

B B 3. First pour the resin into a dry disposable container, then the hardener.

B B 4. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spatula or skewer. I do this for a few minutes. I recommend pouring into a similar dry container and mix again. The resin may not cure as a result of incorrect proportions or poor mixing of the components.

B B 5. Epoxy resin takes about a day to dry completely. During this time, it goes through several stages - from a fluid to a solid state.
We are interested in the so-called "rubber stage". Empirically, I found out that such a state of the resin occurs from the 5th hour of solidification, it no longer sticks and does not stain the hands, and within about 1.5 hours the resin can be given the desired shape without much difficulty.
So, on a smooth surface, for example, a lid from a food container, we apply the resin in separate drops.

Q Q 6. We have time to prepare the necessary details. For the bones, we need baked polymer clay of a suitable color. If you use self-hardening clay or “cold porcelain” for the bones, then I recommend making the bones in advance, no later than a day in advance - this is necessary in order for such clay to dry. Otherwise, the resin may become cloudy upon contact with moisture.

B B 7. I knead the clay, roll it into a thin sausage and cut it with a clerical knife. I bake the bones on foil in the oven at t 120 degrees B for 5-8 minutes.

At 8. A couple of hours have passed. The resin thickens, looks like viscous honey. Choose one drop and periodically check its condition with a toothpick - this will help you understand when the stage of interest to us will come.

Q Q 9. A little over 5 hours have passed. The resin has entered the "rubber stage". On top of the drops we apply bones made of polymer clay.

B B 10. Separate the drop from the surface. It is so plastic that it can be pulled into a thread, it no longer gets your hands dirty.

At 11. I roll the drop with the bones inside.

12. In the palm of my hand I roll a ball of resin. For tiny berries I use one small drop, for larger berries I add 2 or 3 drops. I spread the balls to dry on a foam rubber sponge.
C C C IMPORTANT! C While the “rubber stage” lasts, the resin ball may “float” and lose its shape. Within 1.5 hours I control this process, periodically rolling up future berries. Closer to the 7th hour, you will already feel that the berry has hardened so much that it will no longer be possible to give another shape.

B B 13. In order for the currant branch to look as realistic as possible, it is important not only to make the berries transparent. For pedicels, I use thin wire. Here, by the way, floristic wire in a white winding No. 33 or a wire for beads, which must first be sanded, will do.

B B 14. If you are using a wire for beads, then already at this stage you can fix a piece of wire in the resin by gently sticking it into the ball.

B B 15. If a wire is used in the winding, then it will be difficult to carefully insert it into the resin. In this case, you need to wait until the ball is completely cured and make a hole with a thin drill. Secure the wire with super glue.

B B 16. Leave the beads until the final curing.

B B 17. In order to paint the berries, I use Neapolitan Beige acrylic paint diluted in half with water. Brush "0" I train on different surfaces.

B B 18. I paint the berries from the center of the top to the wire.

B B 19. In order for the berries to acquire a beautiful color and gloss, I use stained glass paints. I mix red and yellow colors for a warm shade of berries and be sure to add thinner, since stained glass paints have a fairly concentrated color. (pictured is red stained glass paint and thinner)

B B 20. Having mixed the paints in a suitable container (perfume cap), I dip the berries and collect drops of paint on the edge of the cap.

B B 21. Turning the berry over, carefully remove excess paint with a napkin.

B B 22. Drying. Paint thinner dries faster. After 2 hours, the berries can be picked up without fear of getting dirty.

23. For the stem and leaves, I will need a piece of "cold porcelain", painted in a delicate green color. I paint clay with oil paints of yellow and green colors.

24. I am preparing the stem to which I will attach the berries. To do this, with a piece of green clay, I first roll the wire with my fingers.

B B 25. Then, on a hard, flat surface, I roll the wire with clay, pressing it with force.

B B 26. I continue to paint the clay, adding brown oil paints. We will need this piece of clay to make berry tails.

B B 27. In the file-corner, using a ruler, stack or nails, I thin out a small piece of clay.

B B 28. I lay a thin layer of a napkin on half of the rolled clay, having previously exfoliated it. With the help of a fingernail, I “rub” the napkin to the clay.

B B 29. I detach the clay from the corner folder and “roll” it on the other side of the napkin. It turned out the thinnest layer of clay, reinforced with a paper napkin.

B B 30. I cut off small squares, in an amount equal to the number of berries.

B B 31. With wet fingers on the tip of the stack I form future ponytails. You can cut the ponytails with scissors to enhance the effect.

B B 32. Similarly, using a napkin, I roll out green clay. I cut out a strip B about 0.5 cm wide. I cut off tiny elongated triangles from the strip - these are future stipules.

B B 33. With the help of super-glue, I attach the tail to the center of the top of the berry.

B B 34. I cut off the excess.

B B 35. I paint the wire with a mixture of yellow and green acrylic paints and latex glue.
IMPORTANT! Do not forget that the wire for beads must be pre-sanded.

B B 36. The clay on the stem is a little dry. With a needle in a spiral, I make small holes 1-2 mm deep, pushing the clay away.

B B 37. I strengthen the berries, starting with the smallest. Having previously cut the wire to the required length, I dip the edge of the wire 1-2 mm into the Super Moment Gel instant glue. And I immediately paste it into the prepared holes, pressing the wire with a needle. Above the place where the wire is attached, I fix a tiny stipule on any glue.

B B 38. I continue to attach larger berries. Do not forget to close the place of attachment with a stipule.

B B 39. When all the berries are in place, with the help of pliers I give the branch a beautiful bend.

B B 40. I cut a piece of “clay napkin” as in the picture below.

B B 41. With the help of a teip tape, I fasten the previous part at the base of the branch. Thus, I imitate the dried up buds of failed branches.

To make such a branch, we need:

Epoxy resin;

Baked polymer clay;

Self-hardening polymer clay or "cold porcelain";

Wire;

Oil and acrylic paints;

Disposable container for mixing components.

1. First, consider a live branch of currant, pay attention to the size and location of the berries, the size of the seeds.

2. I make currant berries from epoxy resin. In this case, I use a regular resin and hardener 921 (op), which means optical, i.e. the most transparent and colorless. The instructions say 2:1 mixing ratio - 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. Use gloves as a safety measure.

3. First pour the resin into a dry disposable container, then the hardener.

4. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spatula or skewer. I do this for a few minutes. I recommend pouring into a similar dry container and mix again. The resin may not cure as a result of incorrect proportions or poor mixing of the components.

5. Epoxy resin takes about a day to dry completely. During this time, it goes through several stages - from a fluid to a solid state.

We are interested in the so-called "rubber stage". Empirically, I found out that such a state of the resin occurs from the 5th hour of solidification, it no longer sticks and does not stain the hands, and within about 1.5 hours the resin can be given the desired shape without much difficulty.

So, on a smooth surface, for example, a lid from a food container, we apply the resin in separate drops.

6. We have time to prepare the necessary details. For the bones, we need baked polymer clay of a suitable color. If you use self-hardening clay or "cold porcelain" for the bones, then I recommend making the bones in advance, no later than a day in advance - this is necessary in order for such clay to dry. Otherwise, the resin may become cloudy upon contact with moisture.

7. I knead the clay, roll it into a thin sausage and cut it with a clerical knife. I bake the bones on foil in the oven at t 120 degrees for 5-8 minutes.

8. A couple of hours have passed. The resin thickens, looks like viscous honey. Choose one drop and periodically check its condition with a toothpick - this will help you understand when the stage we are interested in comes.

9. A little more than 5 hours have passed. The resin has entered the "rubber stage". On top of the drops we apply bones made of polymer clay.

10. I separate the drop from the surface. It is so plastic that it can be pulled into a thread, it no longer gets your hands dirty.

11. I turn the drop with the bones inside.

12. In the palm of my hand I roll a ball of resin. For tiny berries I use one small drop, for larger berries I add 2 or 3 drops. I spread the balls to dry on a foam rubber sponge.

IMPORTANT! While the "rubber stage" lasts, the resin ball may "float" and lose its shape. Within 1.5 hours I control this process, periodically rolling up future berries. Closer to the 7th hour, you will already feel that the berry has hardened so much that it will no longer be possible to give another shape.

13. In order for the currant branch to look as realistic as possible, it is important not only to make the berries transparent. For pedicels, I use thin wire. Here, by the way, floristic wire in a white winding No. 33 or a wire for beads, which must first be sanded, will do.

14. If you are using a wire for beads, then already at this stage you can fix a piece of wire in the resin by gently sticking it into the ball.

15. If a wire is used in the winding, it will be difficult to carefully insert it into the resin. In this case, you need to wait until the ball is completely cured and make a hole with a thin drill. Secure the wire with super glue.

16. Leave the beads until the final curing.

17. In order to paint the berries, I use Neapolitan Beige acrylic paint diluted in half with water. Brush "0" I train on different surfaces.

18. I paint the berries from the center of the top to the wire.

19. In order for the berries to acquire a beautiful color and gloss, I use stained glass paints. I mix red and yellow colors for a warm shade of berries and be sure to add thinner, since stained glass paints have a fairly concentrated color. (pictured is red stained glass paint and thinner)

20. Having mixed the paints in a suitable container (perfume cap), I dip the berries and collect drops of paint on the edge of the cap.

21. Turning the berry over, carefully remove the excess paint with a napkin.

22. Drying. Paint thinner dries faster. After 2 hours, the berries can be picked up without fear of getting dirty.

23. For the stem and leaves, I will need a piece of "cold porcelain", painted in a delicate green color. I paint clay with oil paints of yellow and green colors.

24. I am preparing the stem to which I will attach the berries. To do this, with a piece of green clay, I first roll the wire with my fingers.

25. Then, on a hard, flat surface, I roll the wire with clay, pressing it with force.

26. I continue to paint the clay, adding brown oil paints. We will need this piece of clay to make berry tails.

27. In the corner file, using a ruler, stack or nails, I thin out a small piece of clay.

28. I lay a thin layer of a napkin on half of the rolled clay, having previously exfoliated it. With the help of a fingernail, I "grind" the napkin to the clay.

29. I detach the clay from the corner folder and “roll” it on the other side of the napkin. It turned out the thinnest layer of clay, reinforced with a paper napkin.

30. I cut off small squares, in an amount equal to the number of berries.

31. With wet fingers on the tip of the stack, I form future ponytails. You can cut the ponytails with scissors to enhance the effect.

32. Similarly, using a napkin, I roll out green clay. I cut out a strip about 0.5 cm wide. I cut off tiny elongated triangles from the strip - these are future stipules.

33. Using super glue, I attach the tail to the center of the top of the berry.

34. I cut off the excess.

35. I paint the wire with a mixture of yellow and green acrylic paints and latex glue.

IMPORTANT! Do not forget that the wire for beads must be pre-sanded.

36. The clay on the stem has dried up a little. With a needle in a spiral, I make small holes 1-2 mm deep, pushing the clay away.

37. I strengthen the berries, starting with the smallest. Having previously cut the wire to the required length, I dip the edge of the wire 1-2 mm into the Super Moment Gel instant glue. And I immediately paste it into the prepared holes, pressing the wire with a needle. Above the place where the wire is attached, I fix a tiny stipule on any glue.

38. I continue to fix the berries of a larger size. Do not forget to close the place of attachment with a stipule.

39. When all the berries are in place, with the help of pliers I give the branch a beautiful bend.

40. I cut a piece of "clay napkin" as in the picture below.

41. With the help of teip tape, I attach the previous part at the base of the branch. Thus, I imitate the dried up buds of failed branches.

42. I roll out a piece of green clay in the form of a suitable mold. I'll give you an invoice.

43. A piece of wire, previously rolled in green clay, is glued into the central vein of the future sheet.

44. Using scissors, I shape the sheet.

45. When the sheet dries, I give it a brighter green color with oil paint.

46. ​​I emphasize the edges with red oil paint. With a piece of green clay and water I "blur" the central vein.

47. First, I fasten one sheet with teip tape.

48. Then the second sheet. The branch can be rolled in with clay.

49. Such a branch can be used in an interior composition or as a decoration.

Somehow like this! I made a gooseberry sprig in the same way.

I wish you creative success!

When copying the master class, please refer to the source.