First you need to prepare the materials.

To make a mosaic we will need:

• polymer clay 1000g approximately: any color, but preferably white,
• marbles for decoration,
• pasta machine or regular kitchen rolling pin,
• wooden or silicone stamps for scrapbooking, as well as a special holder for stamps,
• metal molds for cutting square tiles: cookie cutters are suitable, or you can get by with a cutter,
• silicone glue or glue gun with glue sticks,
• acrylic paints: any colors, among which there must be gold or bronze paint, which we will use as the final design of the mosaic,
• acrylic contours for filling seams,
• finishing glossy varnish: a finishing varnish for decoupage or a special varnish for coating products from polymer clay,
• the frame that we will decorate, I bought a mirror from IKEA, it has wide enough margins so that you can create a rich artistic composition,
• brushes for applying paint and for applying varnish: soft, flat, wide brushes with synthetic bristles are suitable for applying paint; any flat, hard brush is suitable for applying varnish.
• oilcloth,
• sheets of paper, maybe sheets from magazines,
• cotton rags,
• jar with clean water.

All of the listed objects, except for the frame, of course, can be purchased at the Leonardo store in the Aura shopping center.

For those who are not familiar with polymer clay, I will briefly tell you what kind of fruit it is and what it is eaten with. Polymer clay differs from the clay we are used to in that it consists of a PVC filler and one or more types of plasticizer, due to which the mass retains its plasticity. Polymer clays vary in composition depending on the purpose of use: modeling dolls, jewelry, etc., as well as in color and desired effect: transparent, colored, with a metallic effect, etc. In our case, I recommend using ordinary FIMO craft clay for baking in microwave oven, or JOVI polymer paste for children's crafts, it is non-toxic, easy to use, and does not require special conditions for hardening, because dries well in air. You should know that when working with this clay you should not hesitate, because... In air, thin fragments of the product can harden, and you should also know that you cannot wet your hands or the clay mass with water while working, the mass will become limp and flow.

So let's get started! We divide a piece of clay into three fragments, it’s more convenient to work, we take one fragment for work, we hide the rest in a package, close it so that the clay does not start to dry out in the air. Carefully roll out a piece approximately 1-2mm thick, then select the pattern you like from a set of silicone stamps for scrapbooking and attach it to the stamp holder, then, evenly pressing on the holder, apply an impression to the surface of the clay, combining the patterns as much as possible closer friend to each other, and cut out the tiles using square metal shapes of different sizes. We lay out the resulting tiles separately on a flat surface on 2-3 layers of paper. Why 2-3 layers, because the plasticizer will be absorbed by the paper, the paper will swell, and the tiles may become deformed. The tiles can be dried with a hairdryer, but you must carefully direct the air flow so that the tiles do not fly apart, because. small items made from polymer clay are very light. The remaining clay after squeezing out the tiles can be re-rolled, combining it with fresh mass from the package; if you remember, I initially recommended dividing the mass into three parts. We do the same things with the rest of the clay mass.

When the clay has dried slightly, you can begin the second stage of decoration - applying acrylic paint. Prepare a jar of clean water and cotton rags to clean the brush from excess water after rinsing the brush. Depending on the desired effect, you can apply a thick mass of paint to the brush, then the paint will lay down in a thick, saturated layer, or you can barely grab the paint with a brush slightly damp from water, then you will get a transparent light shade on the tile. After each color, you need to rinse the brush well in water, change the water more often, and blot the brush with a cotton cloth. I used different paints: I used stained glass for their transparency and shine, glossy universal ones, and pearlescent ones. To decorate the tiles, it is better to use contrasting bright colors, or if you want to decorate the frame in some selected color scheme, then it is better to use no more than 3-4 colors. On each tile I used 2 contrasting colors, for example, a light background in one color, and highlighted the relief area with short dotted strokes in a contrasting dark color. Next, take the gold paint that I mentioned earlier, and carefully apply it in a thin layer along the relief of the tile, and dry it with a hairdryer. Because I tried to keep the design of the frame in the Indian style, so I chose the stamp patterns and paint colors accordingly.

Now let's start decorating the IKEA frame. But first, be sure to combine the tiles on the frame and see how they will look next to each other. When the location of each tile is marked, you can glue them with silicone glue. It is better to apply the glue directly to the tiles; if the glue drips somewhere or a glue web appears, do not touch them; when the glue dries, it can be safely removed with tweezers or your hands without damaging the product. The tiles can be installed with a slight gap between the elements; if somewhere it is necessary to be tighter so that the required amount of tiles fits along the entire length of the frame, then the gap can be ignored and the elements can be placed end-to-end. When the tiles are glued, you can decorate the glass frame with marbles; they also stick well with silicone glue.

A woman spends a lot of time in the kitchen if she prefers healthy food, loves to please her loved ones with delicious dishes, and enjoys the process. Conveniently organized workplace should be not only in the office. Housework also requires a certain order and it is much more convenient to bake pies if everything is at hand. In our time of dominance of semi-finished products, we cook at home less and less, forgetting what home-baked goods smell like. For those who are not lazy to stand at the stove, a cheat sheet in the form of a frame, which you can make with your own hands from polymer clay, will be useful.

For work we need:
-polymer clay of several colors.
- printed table of measurements of products in laminate.
-glue gun.

First of all, you need to pack the data plate in the laminate.

Then we proceed to design the frame. We make flagella of one or two colors from polymer clay, and arrange them in a chaotic manner, intertwining them with each other. We spread it around the perimeter of the sheet and place it on the sheet for temperature treatment.
Next, we proceed to the manufacture of various small items. Fruits, a bag of salt, in general, everything that your imagination can realize. Place on the tile and bake according to the instructions that come with the polymer clay.

After the product has hardened and cooled, use a glue gun to attach the frame to the sheet with information on weight measures.
The next stage is placing the prepared fruits on the surface of the frame, securing them with the same glue gun.

If you attach two magnets to the back, our cheat sheet will be conveniently fixed on any metal surface. They can be glued with the same gun, and the magnets can be borrowed from tired or damaged refrigerator magnets.

The frame will not only be useful, but will also delight you with bright colors.
This is also a great opportunity to get creative with children. Fine motor skills are especially useful for children and older people. It has been proven that working with fingers and hands affects the mental development of children, and prevents old age from creeping up unnoticed on older people. So working with your grandmother is both pleasant and useful for both.

This work is good because it does not require any complex tools or sophisticated techniques and knowledge in working with plastic.

Materials I use:

Wooden photo frame (simple, bought in Ikea (Almaty residents, we’re not happy, we still don’t have Ikea. I found this opportunity in Novosibirsk :))
- polymer clay (in this case it’s an incorrigibly girly color :))
- regular office blade
- And liquid gel for polymer clay

I start work without any preliminary preparation.
I have a thing - I’m afraid that something will break or fall off, so for better adhesion to the surface I use liquid gel. In principle, its presence is not necessary; it is enough to simply press the plastic more tightly to the wood.

I apply a little gel to the surface of the frame and smear it.

Then I simply roll out the plastic into strings in my hands and lay it on the surface, trimming the edges with a blade.

I gently press the “laces” against the wood with my finger so that the plastic and the frame are pressed tightly against each other.

Making corners and joints neat is practically impossible, so I suggest masking them and making an additional decorating element. To do this, I fold our lace, place a double strip of cord along the seam, trim off the excess and make our “knitted” pattern in a way that is already familiar to us.

The knitted base of our photo frame is ready.

Then I thought I could add more buttons :)
For these purposes, I took out the remains of ready-made “sausages” stored in stashes. In principle, it was not necessary to use them, you can get by just fine with plain buttons, just take flattened cakes of multi-colored polymer clay, besides, they can be of all different shapes

We apply our “button” to the surface and make two holes for it. We attach it to the frame and achieve plausibility :)

Well, that seems to be all. The photo frame is ready. If you want to add or remove some elements, it’s a matter of your desire and imagination! It seems to me that there can be many options.
Now we send the photo frame to bake for 30 minutes at a temperature of 130 degrees.

I used the same principle to make the second photo frame. Let it be conditionally for a man (if pink is for a woman :)).

Photo frame with white lilies made of polymer clay

Photo frame decoration. Materials and tools:

• baked polymer clay of white, translucent, cherry color;
• green self-hardening floral clay;
• dry pastel in light green, red and mustard colors;
• thin wire;
• mold with the texture of a lily petal (We recommend reading)
• universal mold for leaves;
• breadboard knife;
• stack;
• toothpicks;
• scissors;
• soft round brush;
• flat small brush;
• quick-drying glue;
• cotton wool;
• alcohol;
• photo frame;
• latex gloves

2. Press each petal onto a mold with the texture of lily petals.

3. Bend the petal lengthwise and bend it slightly in an arc, so that it is not even, but slightly curved upward. We process all the other petals in the same way.

4. Form a “donut” of a suitable size from cotton wool. Place three petals on it so that their lower ends converge in the center of the “donut” and touch each other. Press the center of where the petals meet with the stack so they stick together. Then place three more petals on top, placing them in the spaces between the lower petals. Also press the stack into the center so that the petals stick together. Use the same method to collect the second lily.

5. Let's continue the "polymer clay" master class. Crush a piece of light green pastel crayon into powder and paint the name with a round soft brush into the center of the lilies.

6. Take a piece of translucent clay and mix it with a very small amount of light green pastel to give the clay a slight greenish tint. If you are using transparent rather than translucent clay for this, then it is advisable to first mix it with a piece of white clay.

7. Cut a piece of wire 3cm long. Place a ball of freshly prepared translucent greenish clay on it and form a pestle, expanding at the top and tapering downwards. On the top side of the pestle, use a toothpick to make indentations dividing it into three identical parts.

8. Pinch the edge of each of the three parts a little with your fingers.

9. Tint the top of the pestle with mustard-colored pastels. Make a second pestle of the same type for the second lily using polymer clay.

10. Add a piece of translucent clay to the remaining clay from making the pestle to make it a lighter color.

11. Place this clay on a thin wire and begin to roll it between your fingers and stretch it in opposite directions so that the clay covers the wire with an even thin layer.

12. Now cut this wire 12 into pieces 3cm long.

13. To make stamen anthers, shape ovals the size of a grain of rice from cherry clay. Use the back of a knife to press a longitudinal groove on the surface of each grain.

14. Poke a blind hole at the bottom of each anther with a toothpick.

15. Place the anthers on top of the stamen stalks.

16. Now stick 6 stamens to the pistil.

17. Turn the pestle with the stamens upside down and place them on the cardboard on which you will bake them.

18. From white clay, form an oblong bud with a sharp tip. The length of the bud should be slightly less than the length of the petals of polymer clay lilies. Place the bud on a toothpick and use a knife to press three vertical indentations on its surface. Make 6 buds.

19. Tint the top of the buds with red pastel, and tint the lower side and grooves with light green pastel using a flat brush. Then remove the buds from the toothpicks. Now place the buds next to the bunches of pistils and stamens, put the lilies on cotton wool next to them and bake it all in the oven. When you remove the products from the oven, remove the cotton wool from under the lilies.

20. Next we will work with self-hardening floral clay that does not require baking. Cut the wire into 6 pieces 4cm long and roll each piece with a thin layer of green floral clay. Lubricate the tip of the wire in clay with quick-drying glue and immediately put the bud on it. Glue the green stems into the remaining buds in the same way. Place the three buds together and press the undersides of the stems together. They should stick together. If they don't stick together well, you can coat them with glue.

21. Lubricate the underside of the stamens in the pistil with glue and glue them into the polymer clay lily.

22. Photo frame decoration almost ready. Now use cotton wool soaked in alcohol to wipe the frame to degrease it. Apply glue to the underside of the stems of the bunch of buds and glue it to the desired location on the top of the frame. Then glue the second bunch of buds to the underside of the frame.

23. Make an oblong lily leaf from green clay and give it texture using a universal mold.

24. Bend the petal lengthwise, coat its underside with glue and glue it so that it covers the ends of the stems of the buds. Then make a few more leaves and glue them near the buds and in the place where the lilies will be.

25. Grease the underside of the lily with glue and stick a ball of green floral clay.

26. Lubricate the bottom side of the ball with glue and place the lily in the required place of the photo frame, pressing it down. Glue the second lily in the same way.

Polymer clay - master class has come to an end, in conclusion I would like to note:
*you can not glue the elements made from floral clay raw, but simply stick them temporarily on a photo frame, and then, after the clay has hardened, carefully remove them from the frame and then glue them with glue.

So thanks to the charming polymer clay lilies, decorating a photo frame has become unusually delicate and stylish.

Now try experimenting, watch our other master classes on polymer clay and decorate a photo frame with your favorite colors.

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There can never be too many mirrors - every fashionista knows this. Any woman needs not only a small mirror in her purse and a large one that reflects full height, but also of medium size - tabletop for applying makeup. And if such a mirror is in a beautiful frame, which you can make yourself from polymer clay using beautiful stamps and textures, as well as the “color transition” technique, then it can decorate the dressing table of any beauty.

Materials and tools for work:

• baked polymer clay
• liquid plastic - gel
• working surface: glass or ceramic tiles with a flat, smooth surface
• special texture sheet or beautiful texture napkin
• knife or scalpel
• plastic stack
• baby powder or talcum powder
• tassel
• small mirror
• ribbon
• acrylic paint silver color

To create the frame, I used plastic in two shades of blue and silver.

Making a frame from polymer clay

To base the frame we will need a fairly large and thick layer of polymer clay. You can use one solid one, but it should extend beyond the boundaries of the mirror by about 3 cm on each side. If you do it in the same way as I did, that is, take several pieces, then the central large element should be larger than the mirror itself, at least 0.5 cm.

Using a brush, apply talc or baby powder to the textured sheet. Roll over the surface of the plastic.

I use two types of textures. One for the central bright blue part and corner elements, and another for the narrow side parts. The corner square elements are made of silver plastic, the side stripes are made of dark blue. Their location can be seen in the photo. It is necessary to carefully press all the elements together, then after baking they will hold together well.

We send the back wall of the mirror frame to bake according to the instructions for the polymer clay. At this time, we will make a layer of clay for the front side with a color transition. To do this, roll out two pieces of the same thickness and approximately the same size.

Since dark blue plastic greatly affects the color of light plastic, which is typical for all dark colors of polymer clay, we will need more bright blue color. We cut them and fold them as shown in the photo.

Then fold it in half and roll it out a little.

We repeat this process until it appears smooth transition from one color to another. This is an intermediate result.

And this is the final one.

Roll the texture over this layer. You may need to make similar layers several times so that there is enough for the side elements.

Place the cooled back part of the frame with the pattern down. Then we position the mirror evenly. We lubricate the protruding parts of the frame with liquid plastic, especially in those places where the elements of the backdrop are connected.

We lay out all the parts of the front side, carefully aligning them and pressing them against each other.

We will also need a leg to support the mirror in an inclined position. If you just lean the mirror, for example, against a shelf, then you can do without it. The leg should be strong and thick enough. Therefore, first we roll out and cut it out of one layer of polymer clay. Approximate form visible in the photo.

And then we put another layer with a textured pattern on top.

We send all the parts to bake. After baking, you can use a sharp knife to trim the edges of the frame if necessary.

You can leave the frame as is, but I wanted to give it a more aged and noble look. For this I will need silver acrylic paint. Using an almost dry brush, I apply it to raised areas in textured designs.