Good afternoon dear readers of the blog site. Today I will tell you and show you the progress of my work using the technique of dot painting with outline outlines. The stencils that I used will help you draw lace with symmetrical accuracy and will make it easier to do the painting itself. I gave it the same name as the name of the decoupage card itself, Dreams of Paris.

This technique of imitation lace will help you apply the acquired skills when decorating any item.

Well, friends, let's get started?

Materials and tools

For this work we will need:

• Round plywood base with a diameter of 30 cm
• Water stain
• Decoupage card A3 format Dreams of paris
• Acrylic paints
• Glue for decoupage
• Acrylic lacquer.
• Contour acrylic paints

Preparing the watch base

We take our workpiece, sand the surface and cover it with stain in several layers until we obtain the desired shade and uniform color; in this work I used chestnut-colored stain.

You can also experiment and get the color you like. Just keep in mind that you need to dilute as much paint as necessary to cover the entire workpiece, because it is very difficult to repeatedly obtain the desired shade when mixing different paints.

Decoupage

For this work we used a decoupage card.

We cut out the fragment that we liked in the shape of a circle, having previously marked the center of our picture. Soak our picture in water at room temperature for a couple of minutes. Next, we paste our picture using glue using the file method, strictly in the center of our workpiece. When centering, we focus on our marks where we marked the center.

Please note that in this work we are not thinning our decoupage card, but gluing it onto a dark background. When the picture dries, it will be as bright as it was originally.

We cover our work with acrylic varnish in 3 layers and go over it with sandpaper No. 800

We complete the picture with acrylic paints. Whitewash, burnt sienna, blue, green, a little yellow - by mixing these colors and achieving the required color, we draw the picture. To prevent the underdrawing from extending beyond the edges of the picture, you can use a homemade paper “stencil” or use masking tape for this purpose. After completing the painting, we fix our picture with 2 layers of varnish.

painting

Let's start our dot painting. We hold the tube as it is comfortable for our hand, experiment and find your comfortable position. It’s convenient for me to hold the tube, slightly tilted like a handle. Also, the hand should lie completely on the table (support), including the elbow, so it will not shake. Using a white outline, we go along the edges of the picture, point by point. We try to ensure that our points are the same size. Before applying, experiment on a draft. We try to place them as much as possible closer friend to a friend.

Let's move on to our lace. Using a ruler and a watercolor pencil, you can draw on barely noticeable dots at equal distances. We will focus on them. This scheme will help to draw a more symmetrical picture.

Using a ruler and a contour, at an equal distance from each other, mark the larger points and connect them as in the photo below.

We draw the second row identically.

And may the hours you created bring you even more minutes of happiness and joy. Thank you for stopping by, see you again! Bye bye.

• patterns for cross stitch or mosaic weaving with beads;
• beautiful patterns on fabrics (neck scarves in Oriental, Moroccan or African styles, imitation colors of various animals, floral motifs, etc.);
• crocheted openwork napkins or patterns for crocheting them;
• ethnic ornaments and patterns printed in a suitable size on paper (you can use books on traditions and ethnic embroidery;
• paper napkins or decoupage cards.

Inspiration in the search for patterns and ornaments can be found in the cultures of different nations: oriental mosques are famous for their floral patterns; in cathedrals you can borrow patterns from stained glass roses. A lot of useful information and diagrams can be found in various books on the history and construction of ornaments among different peoples.

Spot painting with contours: ready-made diagrams and stencils

Depending on the shape and size of the object, it is worth choosing a pattern. The simplest in execution and universal in purpose are simple geometric shapes. If you've never done dot painting before, start by tracing circles on a flat, rectangular-shaped surface such as a passport cover or cell phone case. Composing an ornament from simple shapes - circles, triangles, squares and lines different colors, you can achieve very interesting results. To achieve maximum effect, you just need to choose the right contour colors.

More complex circular and linear ornaments. To perform them, the surface of the product must first be prepared - apply barely noticeable marking lines with a pencil. If the work is to be done on a transparent glass surface, you can secure the sketch of the design on the back side with tape.

A large number of drawing schemes for dot painting can be found on the Internet. Here are just a few options for different items:

For the plates (most round designs, mandalas for coloring, etc. will work):

Oriental patterns (one of the most popular options is the Indian paisley cucumber in various combinations):

For glasses and bottles (light airy ornaments in the form of curls, or “seamless” linear patterns)

For various accessories (glasses cases, pencil cases, mobile phone cases, wallets and business card holders):

Working with diagrams

If the chosen pattern is counted (for cross stitch or bead embroidery), then you need to use a special glass pencil to mark the main axes (horizontal, vertical, center of the pattern) on the surface of the product. And start working based on these guidelines. It is better to start drawing vertical and horizontal patterns from the top line, from the central point to the sides - this way you will be able to maintain symmetry and follow the pattern. It is better to move round or figured motifs from the center of the picture to the sides, filling them with sectors.

If any non-countable pattern (fabric, paper, plastic) is used in the form of a diagram, then it is very convenient to secure it under the surface to be processed. Masking tape is suitable for this. Next, taking advantage of the transparency of the glass, it is enough to outline the main contours with a thin line of paint (you can also use a special pencil). When choosing paint for the outline, think about whether it will be too contrasting and flashy, and whether the fill dots will cover it. After the sketch has dried, you can start filling in the elements with dots.

It is important to be sure to let each color and row of dots dry, otherwise the drawing may become blurred or merge into untidy blots. In this way, you can transfer the design to flat plates or photo frames, and to more complex objects (vases, glasses, etc.). In the second case, the selected circuit is placed and secured inside the vessel.

To work in the dot painting technique, a special paint is used - acrylic contours. From ordinary acrylic paints the contour differs in packaging - most often these are metal (less often plastic) tubes of small volume with a thin long spout, which is very convenient for placing dots. In addition to packaging, contours differ in consistency - they are usually thicker, and in their ability to hold their shape - ideally, the contour does not settle, and the resulting dots retain their volume, giving the finished work a relief that is pleasant to the touch.

In order not to spoil the work, a new tube of contour must be tested on a small piece of wood or glass. Try putting different sized dots on them and see how the paint behaves on the surface. Sometimes a completely fresh contour can be put in the refrigerator for an hour or two before work - this way it becomes thicker and does not spread. And, of course, don’t forget to clean the long plastic spout from dried paint. The most convenient way to do this is with a sewing needle or a piece of thin metal wire.

The surface of the product on which the spot painting will be applied must be prepared for work. First of all, clean with a degreaser or alcohol. Then paint it in the desired color according to the plan and cover it with 2-3 layers of varnish. Contour paints are a finishing material, i.e. do not require fixing with varnish or other compounds.

Many times I have been asked to tell you how I make “even” lace strips. I’ll show you the example of “tulle” lace, which I love and often use in various options. It's simple. Is it true!

Introduction: I make all the lace with “Tair” - white, light silver. All markings and “basting” are in light silver, because this contour gives the smallest point and is easily covered by subsequent painting.

1. I outline the width of the lace strip and make 1 cm markings (in this case).

2. I connect the points with arcs. Two down.

3. Now two up.

4. I continue along the entire length. For me this will be the bottom of the lace strip. I outline the size of the future “leaf”. Now this is easy to do, based on the existing drawing.

5. Using the markings, I make a “basting” of leaves and circles, all of them will be “holes” on the tulle, i.e. not painted over.

I repeat once again that all basting is done in light silver.

6. I begin to fill in the “tulle fabric”. Using light silver, practically without pressing on the tube, I place micro-dots in a chaotic order, close to each other.

Important- do not repeat the contours of the drawing with micro-dots, i.e. do not follow the intended lines so that the tulle pattern does not duplicate the contours of the leaves and holes.

7. I fill everything tightly with tulle. Looks like this

8. I begin to outline all the intended leaves and circles with a white outline, the dots are not large, but very dense, so that there is an impression of tightly sewn “holes”

9. Now the most pleasant thing is the decor of our lace, here’s everything that comes to mind.

One piece of advice: once you start making some element, continue to repeat it along the entire length of the strip.The hand seems to get used to the rhythm and pattern and it turns out smoother and more confident.

This time I drew it like this, I’m showing it step by step, without comments.

As you understand, there are a lot of options for designing the lace edge, it all depends on the size of the item and how you distribute the accents (the brightest and most densely painted lace).

On this box I made this option.

And this is how it looks in its entirety. On the subject of accents - since the most complex and voluminous painting is on the lid, I made a not too rich lace strip on the sides.

I wish you all success, inspiration and creative mood! I hope this MK will help you in some way.

Always with you, Yulia Levashova