How to learn to shoot well. How to take photographs with a DSLR camera? Differences between a “DSLR” and a “soap box”

In the house. But quite recently it was not only a rarity, one might even say exotic, but also a luxury. But everything flows, everything changes and with the spread digital technology prices began to decline, and availability, naturally, on the contrary, increased. So you have become the happy owner of a brand new, or at worst, not entirely new, camera. And now, after the purchase, it is no longer a matter of choosing the appropriate type or brand. Now we will talk about how to learn how to photograph correctly. And there can be a lot of functions, but in most cases only one is used - the shutter release. Automation, of course, is a useful and extremely convenient thing, because... no need to think about shutter speeds, apertures, distances, etc. But, nevertheless, the automatic mode cannot satisfy all shooting needs.
Now let's talk about everything in order. Let's start with a brief theory.

Photography Basics

With the formation of an image, nothing has changed since the founding of photography by Dagger - light still passes through a lens consisting of a set of lenses. But unlike film photography, the image is projected on a CCD (charge-coupled device) matrix, and then read, processed and recorded on a digital medium. But that’s not the point (in general, this doesn’t interest us in this case). The lens has a motorized aperture and also comes with a zoom mechanism. Exposure is carried out by changing the readout speed from the CCD. In addition, there is a multi-point (in advanced models) or single-point (in simple) exposure meter, which determines the amount of illumination of objects and is intended for setting the so-called exposure, as well as for adjusting the pulse duration of the built-in flash. There is also an autofocus sensor (with the exception of point-and-shoot cameras).
The exposure is set based on the exposure meter readings. Of course, in many point-and-shoot cameras everything is simple - only the aperture value is set, and the shutter speed is set rigidly (usually 1/60 sec.). But in larger devices everything is much more complicated. There, the same exposure can be achieved with different combinations of shutter speed and aperture. For example, 60/5.6 is equivalent to 50/6.3. You may ask, what do these numbers mean? The first number is the shutter speed indicated. In this example, 60 and 50 are 1/60 sec. and 1/50 sec. Moreover, the higher the value, the shorter the shutter speed (the shutter fires faster, i.e. it turns out 60 But how will this affect the result?

Let's move on to practice

If a fully automatic mode is used (usually the “camera” icon), the system will automatically set all parameters, including exposure, that are correct only in its opinion. Automation tries to choose a sufficiently long shutter speed (usually 60), but without going too far, so that shaking of the device or movement of objects in the frame does not affect it. Shaking appears at shutter speeds longer than 60. In this case, the aperture is closed as much as possible to increase the depth of field - this simplifies the focusing process. But this approach is not always justified; more precisely, it is not always possible to get what you want in a photograph. Then choosing different exposure modes will come to the rescue. But again, if you have a point-and-shoot camera, then, most likely, you will have to limit yourself to only selecting modes such as “Sport”, “Portrait”, “Landscape”, etc. These modes should also not be neglected, but demanding excellent results in this case is pointless.
Everything is clear with the choice of these modes; MirSovetov suggests learning how to use the more advanced ones. And there are only three of them: aperture priority, shutter priority and completely manual setting. Let's talk about them.

Aperture priority (A)

On most devices it is designated by the letter “A” - Aperture (aperture). In this mode, you manually set the aperture value, and the automation, taking into account the illumination, sets the shutter speed according to it, i.e. the automation can no longer change the aperture value you have chosen. Why is this necessary? This is done in cases where it is necessary to obtain a particular depth of field. And here it is necessary to give again a little theory.
Depth of field indicates that within a certain distance (for example, from 5 to 10 m), all details will be in sharp focus, regardless of the lens focusing on a specific subject (for example, at a distance of 7 m). Moreover, the stronger the aperture, the greater the depth of field. It should also be noted that this value also depends on the focal length of the lens (on the position of the zoom, the so-called zoom): the longer the focal length, the shallower the depth of field.
The point of all this chaos is the following. If you need to separate plans (front, middle and distant) and highlight any object among them, MirSovetov advises choosing a smaller aperture value.
As this value increases, the area where everything will be in sharpness will expand. And at the maximum aperture value, almost everything will be in sharpness, especially at a short focal length.

This is done in order to position the gaze of the person who will look at the photo on the desired object. A person instinctively sees first of all only sharp details, vague ones go unnoticed. This is very effective when you want to separate the desired object from the background. This effect is mainly used for shooting portraits, because... The basis of such photography is people.
By the way, the author himself is a supporter of this particular regime.

Shutter priority (S)

Denoted by the letter “S” – Shutter. Here the user rigidly sets the shutter speed, and the automation selects the aperture.
Here, different effects are achieved if the subject(s) in the frame are moving. If you need to “catch” the moment so that the image of the subject is static and clear, MirSovetov recommends choosing a shorter shutter speed.

In practice, this is “250” or shorter (depending on the speed of movement). But it also happens that it is necessary to show in the photograph a moving object, and not one frozen for centuries. Then you should set the shutter speed longer, for example, “60” or longer. Then the moving parts will be lubricated, which indicates the dynamics of movement.

It should be noted that when choosing a shutter speed of “30” or longer, the shaking of the camera in your hands already affects it - hold it confidently, but without squeezing it too hard, or use a tripod.
You can do a simple experiment. In this mode, set the long shutter speed (usually designated “NR”) to a value of, say, “3” (1/3 sec.) or even steeper by 1 sec. Point the lens at a switched on chandelier, floor lamp, etc. lighting device. After releasing the shutter, move the camera in a circular or other random motion so that the chandelier is in the field of view of the lens. You will end up with mysterious abstract art.

But there is a nuance when shooting with flash. MirSovetov recommends remembering that to synchronize many flashes, a shutter speed of at least “90” is required. If it is shorter, then only a very narrow area where the shutter was pulled out will have normal illumination. But this is not for all devices, because the design of the shutter and flash are different. Try it on yours.
You also need to keep in mind that you need to select the shutter speed correctly, because... Automation will select the exposure, but may not get rid of the excess in achieving the effect. For example, if the shutter speed is chosen too long, it may turn out that everything will be blurry and there will be no talk of any movement effect.

Manual mode (M)

Designated as “M” - Manual (manual).
By the way, this mode of operation of cameras lasted the longest until electronics came to the rescue.
In this case, you will have to set both the shutter speed and aperture manually. Automation will only help you check the correct exposure level using an exposure meter scale in the form of a ruler. In the middle, the zero mark (0) is normal exposure, to the left minus (-) is underexposure, to the right plus (+) is overexposure. There are devices that, in addition to the indicated line, display the exposure level as it is on the display itself, i.e., the display displays darker or lighter.

For your information, this was impossible on mechanical cameras, and there was nothing to check the exposure, either “by eye” or using an external exposure meter.

But why is this mode needed when, it would seem, the previous two are enough for all occasions? And then, to create either the effect of night during the day, or, conversely, the effect of day at night. Here's what it looks like.
In the first case, the shooting took place in bright light.

In the second - almost in the dark.

This is achieved in one case by underexposure, and in the other by overexposure.
There is one more nuance. The “M” mode helps when the automation was unable to offer its own version of the development of events. For example, when it is too dark or too bright.
True, in such cases, the automation of serious devices is also not useless. Many devices have the ability to adjust exposure, i.e. You can force yourself to shoot with underexposure or overexposure in fairly large ranges.
But how does the automation determine the required exposure value?! Right! Using the built-in exposure meter. There may be some here too various options. In general, multi-pattern photometry is suitable for most cases. In this case, the image is divided into component areas (sectors), and photometry is performed for each area. This ensures a well-balanced exposure without creating excessive contrast, i.e. The amount of exposure is a compromise here.
There is also central photometry, i.e. when metering occurs on an object located in the center of the frame. By the way, the development of cameras with built-in exposure meters began with this method. Local photometry is also found. This is practically the same as the central one, but the area over which the exposure is determined is very small (almost at a point), which makes it possible to determine the exposure for a specific subject.
The essence of the last two methods is to more correctly (without compromise) determine the exposure on the desired object, while ignoring the background. This is required, for example, when taking portraits. Here's a look at how multipoint photometry didn't take into account the difference between background and person illumination.

The background turned out normal, but the person was in overexposure. Of course, here the matter was pretty much spoiled by the flash, which does not regulate the luminous flux in non-automatic mode. But, nevertheless, the idea, I think, is clear.
In addition, there is another technique when you need to fix the exposure at a certain point, and then move the lens of the device. This is mainly required when the last two photometry modes are selected, but the desired subject is not in the center of the frame.

Sensitivity (ISO)

There is one more important detail in setting the exposure - ISO sensitivity. Let me! You may say, but this is not a film camera! Yes, this is true, but this sensitivity measure was left for ease of use, because many are already accustomed to this particular system.
The range of acceptable values here depends on the device itself, and not on the film, but, as a rule, it starts with ISO 100 units. and ends with a maximum of 3200 units. There is also an “AUTO” mode. Then the device, depending on the illumination, will set the sensitivity itself. But at the same time he tries to choose this value as small as possible. For here, as on film, the most high quality at the lowest sensitivity. Therefore, do not get carried away unnecessarily by increasing the ISO number. As an example, MirSovetov will give two photographs - the first with ISO 160, the second with ISO 3200. Both frames were taken under the same lighting.

Flash

No, I probably deceived you a little. There is another factor that affects exposure - flash. Here we will briefly consider only the standard one, i.e. onboard "frog". Although, sorry. On soap dishes it is not a “frog” - it does not jump out. This flash has a number of modes, which, however, depend on the mode of the device itself. As a rule, the flash will provide a full list of “services” only if the camera is set to “AUTO” mode.
So, what modes are there:
- Automatic. The flash fires (or doesn't fire) automatically as needed. And the duration of its pulse is regulated depending on the achieved illumination (works only in the device mode - “AUTO”). This is convenient, saves battery power, but is not always suitable for use. Example – shooting against the light;

- Forced flash (available in any mode). It works in any case, regardless of lighting conditions. The pulse duration is not adjustable, i.e. the flash uses its guide number completely. Suitable for most shooting conditions, but consumes more power;

- Slow synchronization. This will set the shutter speed to a slower speed. The standard shutter speed when using flash is 1/90 s, i.e. "90". This is done in order to work on the background, because the flash, as a rule, “does not reach it”;

For all of the above modes there are modes with a reduction in effect. In this case, the main flash is preceded by a series of short flashes without releasing the shutter. This is done so that the pupils of people in the dark narrow and the fundus of the eye does not reflect red light. It only makes sense to use it when photographing people, otherwise it is a waste of energy and time before the shutter is released.

- No flash. This is a mode where the flash will not be used in any case. This is done to prevent shooting with flash where it is prohibited and to obtain some effects where natural light is required. The image becomes more natural. Also, in advanced devices it “opens up” some possibilities, for example, the “range” of values in choosing the white balance setting is expanding.
We must remember that using a standard flash makes the display of objects and people's faces in the photograph flat. At the very least, you should try to photograph at a slightly angle so that shadows appear. But at large angles, excessive contrast will appear.
And another flash. Don't make a common mistake: when you hold the camera, don't cover the flash with your hand.
What other useful functions do modern devices provide?

Zoom

This is a device that allows you to change the focal length of a lens without using interchangeable lenses. At the same time, it seems to you that this or that object is becoming closer or, conversely, further from you, although you yourself are not moving.

And, in fact, it is very convenient. When a lens with a fixed focal length you need to come closer or move further away, which is not always possible and it takes time, and photography, as you know, is the art of capturing the moment. On transfocal lenses this is not required; just turn the zoom ring or press the corresponding button.
If you move it towards “W” (Wide), the angle of view of the lens will expand. This lens is called a short-focus or wide-angle lens. At the same time, you will also get ample opportunities to set the depth of field (since in this mode the aperture is maximum) plus good separation of plans. Those. in this case the perspective expands. But distortions (aberrations) appear - objects take on a barrel-shaped shape.
At a certain value, the lens is set to the normal focal length. As a rule, this happens when it “breaks”. The fact is that the lens, when moving from “W” to “T”, first moves away, and then comes out again. This “inflection” point is the normal focal length. Here the perspective is displayed without distortion (only constructive distortions of the lenses themselves).
If you set the value towards “T” (Tele - long), the angle of view will narrow, and the lens will be called long-focus (lenses with a very large value are called telephoto lenses). Here the aperture ratio is minimal, which leads to a meager choice of aperture values, and therefore depth of field. On telephoto lenses, the aperture ratio is already extremely insufficient and problems with focusing are already appearing. This is due to the fact that a lot of light is lost in the lens itself. Focusing is also difficult. But that’s not all – the impact of shaking the device increases. And again, you can only shoot with a telephoto lens from a tripod. The perspective in this case narrows, the plans are poorly separated (the image turns out flat), and the objects take on a saddle-shaped (biconcave) shape.
Thus, only a normal lens produces an image without perspective distortion. Of course, these distortions can achieve some effects in a number of cases, but when they are not required, they are a “payment for laziness.”
And a few more words about the zoom lens. In addition to the optical zoom provided by the lens, there is also digital zoom. This is achieved electronically, i.e. The image is scaled. The first photo was taken without digital zoom, the second photo was taken with digital zoom.

Naturally, the image quality suffers greatly (characteristic squares – pixels) appear. Although here, too, a lot depends on the device: the simpler it is, the more primitive the scaling, and the more mediocre the quality.
Now let's talk about autofocus.

Focus Modes

When the subject(s) are not in the center of the frame, the multi-point autofocus function is very convenient. Here, similar to a multipoint exposure meter, the system evaluates the field at several points and sets the most appropriate distance from the lens to the subject. This mode is suitable for most cases and is very convenient. In the “AUTO” mode of the device, this particular focusing mode is set and cannot be changed.
There is also a choice of focusing in the center of the frame, as was the case with predecessor cameras, as well as an adjustable autofocus spot mode, where you can independently select the point at which you will install.
The last two modes allow you to avoid some difficulties, for example, when shooting through a fence. Multipoint focusing in this case will respond to the fence itself.
In very difficult situations, for example, when shooting through glass, manual focusing will come to the rescue. Everything is clear here - the focusing is done by the photographer himself. To simplify the process, some devices provide a doubling of the focus frame in order to better see details and, therefore, produce more accurate focusing. It should be taken into account that more time will be spent on all manipulations. In this case, I can advise you to stop the aperture harder to increase the depth of field.
We must remember that autofocus is powerless when shooting monochrome, mirror (not to be confused with the reflection of objects in the mirror, then focusing will be successful), etc. surfaces. In this case, he simply has nothing to “catch onto.” Focusing in poorly lit areas is also problematic. True, at short distances the built-in autofocus illuminator helps - do not block it.
How to use autofocus? It's not that simple. If you simply press the shutter button, the photo will be taken, but the focus will not be adjusted. More precisely, the current focus value will be used. So, what's the big deal? To adjust the focus, you only need to press the shutter button halfway, wait for the setting (if automatic modes are selected), this is usually indicated by the icon on the screen, and then press the button fully. It should be taken into account that if the button is released, you will have to perform the focusing procedure again. This procedure is only for “serious” devices, while this does not work on “point-and-shoot” devices.
Oh yes! There is another mode – macro photography. It is necessary if you need to shoot something closer than normal mode allows.

White balance

What else can be said about the innovations of digital photographic equipment...
Unlike a film camera, a digital camera has an interesting option - white balance. The fact is that the film captures the image as it really is. To be more precise, the display of white color in the film is inherent in the production of the film. Whereas a digital camera is forced to adjust the balance depending on the specific shooting conditions. This gives some advantage over film. You obviously remember how when shooting in incandescent light, the photos turned out yellowish. This could have been avoided when printing photographs by color correction, but most photo labs, of course, did not do this. The digital camera “adjusts” to the shooting conditions immediately and, as a rule, further color adjustments are no longer required.
Stop! You may not understand what we are talking about.
A little theory. IN black and white image everything was simple, there was no need to set white balance. Things are worse with color images. As you know, a color image consists of three primary colors - red, green and blue. Many people probably know the abbreviation RGB, these are these colors.
If these colors are in balance, the result is white. If any of the colors predominates, then white color cannot be achieved. For example, when illuminated by an incandescent lamp, the color turns out yellow (straw). In this case, the balancing of the device considers the predominant light to be white and the display in the photo becomes correct - in this example, without yellowness.
What are the balancing modes?
- Automatic balancing – the device independently determines, in its “opinion,” the correct white balance. As a rule, this is enough “for the eyes”, because... electronics quite correctly determines the balance;
- Balancing by type lighting fixtures(incandescent lamps, fluorescent lamps). If you shoot indoors with appropriate lamps, then you can set the balancing to these modes. But again, auto balance in most cases copes with this task and installation of these modes is not required;
- White balance at a certain point (can be considered manual mode). Used to create effects. For example, if you set the balance to red, then all the red details will be white, and the overall background will be very specific.

It should be noted that the white balance setting in decent devices is dynamic, i.e. with constant determination of balance and does not depend on the position of the device cover. The same cannot be said about video cameras, where this system is very primitive, and you need to know when and how to adjust the balance.
There is one more “trick” of the digital device. Some devices allow you to select the frequency of your power supply - either 50 or 60 Hz. What does the electrical grid have to do with it? In fact, it would seem to have nothing to do with it, but there is still a connection. And this is due to shooting under the light of lamps, mostly fluorescent. The fact is that such lamps blink in time with the network frequency - this can cause flickering. That's what this option is for. The device, taking into account the frequency, tries to make sure it does not fall into synchronization with the blinking. For Russia, this option should be set to 50 Hz.

There are, of course, many more different useful and not so useful functions and options, but it will not be possible to consider them in one article. We looked at the main ones, which are the most necessary and most often used when shooting. It won't be difficult to master them - you just need to practice a little and read the instructions for the camera.
And when you already learn how to take high-quality photographs, it’s time to think about composition in photography. In other words, everything that “freezes” in the frame should represent a single, complete picture. In this regard, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the following material: “”.

Translator's Note: This article is an introductory material that gives brief description simple but critical points for professional photography. For beginners, such advice will help them avoid many mistakes and quickly get closer to professionals, and will also encourage them to further study the necessary materials.

If you want to take great photos, these tips, tricks and techniques from top photographer Tigz Rice will help you improve your skills.

Whether you want to take photos for design work, photograph models for illustration, or anything else, these tips will come in handy for everyone.

In the next 15 points, Tigz will cover gear, lighting and editing—everything you need to know to take better photos.

1. Make a plan

Before you pick up the camera, make a couple of sketches or storyboards of what you want to achieve. This will allow you to stick to a certain idea while shooting.

2. Background

A solid background color in the studio will ensure that the subject is the focal point and will be easier to separate when needed for composition.

Gray is a great color as it works well in most situations. You can also shoot on a white background if you want a lighter composition, or on a black background for darker shots.

Whatever background you choose, make sure that the background color does not match the color of the subject.

3. Light sources

Also, if you plan to take a composite image, you'll want all the objects/people in it to be shot with the same light source(s).

Before pressing the shutter button on your camera, think about where the subject will be positioned and at what angle the light will hit them. Perhaps it needs to be lit from above or below?

It's also worth thinking about the type and color of lighting. We'll talk about this in the next steps.

4. Natural light: golden hour

Everyone can benefit from natural lighting, although its quality varies greatly depending on location, time of day and weather.

If you rely on natural light, the most best time for shooting - the so-called “golden hour”. This is the last hour before sunset, when the sun is already close to the horizon.

5. Natural light: hard light

At midday, when the sun's rays fall almost perpendicular to the ground, harsh shadows are created, especially under the eyes and chin. If you must shoot at this time of day, place your subject in the shade or use a reflector to diffuse some of the light and soften the shadows.

Alternatively, you can try shooting indoors near a window, using net curtains to diffuse the light. However, hard light can be used to your advantage - it's great for shooting textures!

6. Artificial light

If daylight- not an option, you can always create it yourself. Light sources such as lamps can be a great help in illuminating areas of the frame and are, perhaps, always easily accessible.

If you don't want to tread water at the beginner level, a flash along with wireless shutter releases or even a set of portable lights is a good investment.

7. Camera

Obviously, if you want to get best results, without DSLR or compact without SLR camera You can't get by with removable lenses. Both types provide full control over the settings. How to use it correctly - read in the following paragraphs.

There are many camera options to suit every budget, so you can always find the best model.

8. The right lens

This point may also seem too simple to some, but it would still be nice to remind you of it. The lens is an important part of the camera and should be chosen wisely. Each lens has a different focal length, which varies from wide (14 mm) to telephoto (200 - 400 mm).

50 mm - best option for most situations if you are just getting into photography and want something cheap, simple and better than a kit camera lens.

The next step is to invest in 85mm/135mm for portraits and detail shots, and 35mm for landscape photography.

9. Shoot RAW

If you're using a DSLR or mirrorless camera, make sure you're shooting in RAW and not JPEG.

This will allow the camera to capture and process images without compression, giving you more processing space in Lightroom or Photoshop in case you need to correct the exposure.

10. Working in the dark

If you're shooting with a DLSR or compact mirrorless camera, you have very flexible control over sensor sensitivity by adjusting the ISO.

The higher the number, the more noise there will be in the photo, so try to set the ISO to the minimum acceptable level. Here are approximate indicators for different situations.

Outside in sunny weather: 100-200
Outside in cloudy weather: 400
In a well-lit room: 800-1000
In a dark room: 1600-2000

11. Depth of field

Aperture not only regulates the size of the opening that allows light to pass through, but also controls how much of the frame will be in focus depending on the distance.

If you need sharp focus from foreground to background, shoot at f/8 or higher. Otherwise, if you want a blurred background and a sense of depth, experiment with settings around f/1.8.

12. High-speed shooting

A fast shutter speed (1/200 sec or less) is great when you want to freeze a moment, while a long shutter speed (1 sec or more) will help convey a sense of movement or create a slow motion effect.

When working with long exposure Don't forget to take a tripod and shutter release with you to avoid camera shake.

13. Different options

Once you've got the shot you want, take a couple more shots, varying the data. The main challenge is in the posing, so once you're done, try shooting from different angles, changing settings and lighting styles. If a lot of time is spent on setting a shot, then this approach can save a lot of time in the future.

14. Color harmony

If conditions are limited and you have to use different lighting sources, you may need to adjust the colors to make the photo look harmonious.

This can be done using the tool White balance(White Balance) in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom. Or you can read the lesson.

15. Proper background cropping

With the release of Adobe Photoshop CC 2015.5, cutting out backgrounds has never been easier. Why not take advantage of this? Read about it in the article How to use tools

After purchasing a mirror digital camera The question inevitably arises: how to use it correctly? How is it different from an amateur camera? In this article we will try to understand the intricacies of modern photographic technology and answer common questions regarding its operation.

Main features of DSLRs

The SLR camera has several features compared to budget amateur devices. First of all, there is a viewfinder. Through it, the user can observe the photographed image through a special hole with lenses located on the front panel.

From a professional point of view, the viewfinder is much better than a regular LCD display. The main advantage is that the observed image is not digitized. There are no unpleasant artifacts (blurring, flickering, delays) when moving the lens. Therefore, the likelihood of capturing a successful shot becomes much higher.

Also, DSLRs are always equipped with manual settings. The user can independently set the exposure value, aperture opening, and shutter speed. If you understand the settings, you will be able to take a better quality photo than in automatic mode.

In ordinary amateur devices manual settings almost never occurs - they are replaced by a set of preset scenarios. This solution may seem convenient, but in practice it is completely ineffective. Therefore, DSLR cameras have a certain advantage here.

DSLRs have a large matrix. The matrix is an element onto which an image is projected through a lens. The size of the matrix significantly affects the clarity of pictures and allows you to capture more details. You can verify this by looking at examples on the Internet, filmed with professional equipment.

And finally, DSLR cameras always have removable lenses. This allows you to open up an incomparably wider range of creative possibilities compared to an amateur camera. The user has a choice of optics for any situation, be it macro photography or shooting distant objects. This is the most important advantage of DSLRs.

Basic rules for using a DSLR camera

So, we have helped to understand the differences between the two types of equipment. Now it’s time to learn how to take photographs correctly using a DSLR. The topic of conversation will be device management. It is impossible to fully cover such a broad topic in a short article, but we will provide some useful recommendations, allowing the user to quickly get used to it at first. Naturally, then you will need to read highly specialized literature in order to achieve the proper professionalism and be able to use the device at the level of a master. In the meantime, some tips:

Please note: on FotoStream you can create your personal website for a professional photographer with one click. Practice photography techniques and accept orders for shooting now!

Grip. DSLR cameras are often large and heavy, so they need to be held completely differently than point-and-shoot cameras. The right hand should be placed on the protruding handle, and the left hand should support the lens from below. This hand position allows you to quickly access functionality and adjust the focal length. After all, there is no “zoom key” here; the optics have to be tightened manually using a special ring on the lens. For beginners who are accustomed to the “zoom lever” in amateur cameras, this may seem inconvenient, but you can quickly relearn it.

Sighting. To catch the shot, it is preferable to use an optical viewfinder. This is exactly what professional photographers do, turning their occupation into a real art. But sometimes it becomes impossible to use the viewfinder (this can be caused by the non-standard position of the device) - in this case, it is recommended to turn on Live View mode. It involves displaying the captured image on the built-in display. It's important to note that turning on Live View is also necessary to create video. Also, when the video mode is activated, the device automatically turns off the optical viewfinder (this is due to the design).

Charger. DSLRs use removable battery cells that need to be charged periodically. To do this, you need to open the corresponding compartment on the device, remove the batteries and connect them to the charger. This is much more convenient than connecting the camera itself to the network, as is implemented in amateur cameras. Having several sets of batteries, the photographer can quickly continue the shooting process “on the go” by replacing discharged batteries. All you need to do is purchase several rechargeable batteries (preferably from a reputable manufacturer) and a charger in advance.

Function keys. On the body of the device there are a number of different control elements through which the user can access basic features, settings, etc. Regardless of the manufacturer, the location of the keys is almost the same - there are generally accepted standards for the manufacture of photographic equipment. Therefore, even if you frequently change photographic equipment, there is no need to relearn it, everything is in its usual place and is intuitively clear. We will take a detailed look at the main controls that are present in SLR cameras and are not available in the average point-and-shoot camera.

Mode selection wheel. The following symbols are located around the circle - A+ (fully automatic mode), P (automatic mode with partial adjustment), Av (aperture priority mode), Tv (shutter speed priority mode), M (fully manual mode). We will describe the modes a little later.
In addition to the wheel, the body contains equally important functional elements. These include a video recording button (often marked in red), an exposure key, and a mechanical lever designed to switch between the screen and viewfinder. The latter is completely mechanical due to the design features of the SLR camera.
Some manufacturers equip devices with additional control wheels, with the help of which settings can be changed manually. This is necessary for additional comfort of the potential user (the wheels are located directly under the fingers and provide very quick and comfortable access to the parameters).
More expensive models have an additional monochrome liquid crystal display located on top of the case. It shows the current settings when the main display is used for sighting. The convenience of this element is difficult to underestimate - it often helps the photographer when displaying shooting parameters.
Switching between manual and automatic focusing in some cameras is done using a lever on the body. In others, this parameter is assigned to a lever on the lens. The specific option must be chosen by the buyer of the device, based on personal preferences (it is better to evaluate the convenience directly in a photographic equipment store).

Understanding the shooting modes of a DSLR camera

In the DSLR settings there is a large list of modes that a potential user can use in practice. Beginners find it quite difficult to understand the modes (after all, most of them are called by incomprehensible abbreviations like “A” or “Tv”). But in practice there are almost no difficulties - it is only important to familiarize yourself with the meanings of these modes and remember in what cases they are used.

A+ (automatic mode). Designed for users who prefer to save their time as much as possible or simply do not understand the intricacies of manual settings. It is for them that manufacturers have developed a fully automatic mode, which is also called the “green zone”. The name is due to the mode icon - a green camera or the letter “A” of the same color. After selecting this function, the device’s processor independently selects the necessary shooting parameters, including exposure, shutter speed, and aperture opening. Thanks to modern developments, shooting is performed quite efficiently. And for greater convenience, there are scene programs - “Landscape”, “Portrait”, “Evening” - which should be selected depending on the situation.

Av (Aperture priority mode). It is considered a semi-automatic mode, providing the ability to control the opening of the aperture. For example, if you set the f 1/4 parameter in the settings, this will be considered the maximum opening value. As the parameter increases, the aperture begins to gradually close. Thus, the principle is simple - the larger the hole, the more light enters the matrix. For beginners, it is recommended to open the aperture in poor lighting conditions - for example, in a dark room. When shooting in an open sunny space, the aperture must be closed, on the contrary, setting a value from f 5.5 to f 11. The parameter can affect the presence of bokeh - a kind of background blurring effect.

TV(shutter priority mode). Considered less popular among amateurs. It allows you to adjust the shutter speed, that is, the speed at which the picture is taken. This speed is measured in units of a second (for example, 1/1000 or 1/500). When photographing fast-moving objects, you need to set the shutter speed as low as possible, otherwise the photo will turn out blurry. In another situation - when shooting in low light - it is recommended to set the shutter speed as long as possible so that more light falls on the matrix. Naturally, a long shutter speed (from 1/5 second) already requires a tripod to avoid hand shake and subsequent blurring of the image.

M (fully manual settings mode). Allows the user to independently set all parameters - aperture, shutter speed, exposure. To use it, you need professional knowledge of the equipment, so novice owners of SLR cameras are unlikely to be able to correctly understand the settings. Thematic literature is suitable, as well as independent research into the possibilities of the manual regime. In cameras from different manufacturers, the method of setting parameters may vary - for example, it can be done using function keys on the body or a rotary wheel. In this case, the current values are displayed on the built-in display. Details can be found in the instructions for the specific device model.

ISO (light sensitivity setting). Usually this parameter is listed separately in the device menu. It allows you to select the exposure level, that is, the photosensitivity of the digital matrix. The minimum value is 100, and the maximum varies depending on the manufacturer and the high cost of the model. The most modern DSLRs are capable of producing satisfactory image quality at ISO 12,800. What does “satisfactory quality” mean? The thing is that increasing the exposure level “lights up” the image, resulting in digital noise. It appears as bright white dots scattered throughout the picture. Manufacturers are trying to eliminate it in various ways, including the parameters of the matrix itself and built-in software processing.

Practical examples of using a DSLR

Perhaps many people realize that the topic under consideration is almost limitless. And it is impossible to comprehensively consider it in a short article - there are many different books for this. Therefore, we will not go too deep, but will simply give the most important tips designed for beginners. They will definitely come in handy for beginners who have recently purchased a DSLR camera and want to get acquainted with its range of creative possibilities. And for those who just need to shoot and get images of quite passable quality, the usual built-in automatic mode described above is suitable.

Taking portraits. For this purpose, 50-120 mm optics are used. The object must be brought as close as possible by turning the zoom wheel. Then select mode A (with aperture priority) and set the maximum possible value (usually it is 5.6). When it comes to exposure, it's best left to the camera itself. After making the settings, you need to catch the object in the viewfinder and take a shot. Thanks to the described method, you can make almost any portraits - full-length and facial. The listed settings guarantee maximum blurring of the background and at the same time a minimum amount of artifacts.

Landscape photography. To photograph distant objects, a lens with parameters of 18-55 mm is required. You will need to set to activate mode A, set the aperture opening to f 9, adjust the light sensitivity of the matrix to 100. This will make the frame very clear, avoiding excessive overexposure and appearance digital noise. Of course, the listed settings are recommended for daylight hours, preferably in cloudless weather. If the landscape is photographed in the evening or at night, fundamentally different parameters will be needed.

Architecture photo. Almost every novice photographer wants to capture beautiful architectural objects on the streets of their city. Since the space is often obscured by buildings, it is necessary to prioritize the aperture to f 7 to let in more light. It is better to keep the focal length within 18 mm, and as for the exposure, it should be 100. These parameters will help ensure the sharpness of the image and excellent visibility of even the smallest details (almost all architectural objects have small elements on the surface, so it is desirable to achieve as much clarity as possible ).

Macro photography. It involves photographing objects from a short distance. You will need an 18-55 mm lens, and the focus parameters can be anything, depending on the composition. To get the sharpest and best quality photo without the effects of chromatic aberration, it is recommended to experiment with aperture settings, setting the aperture to f10 to f20. It is especially important to consider the aperture when using 55mm optics. As for the photosensitivity value, it is better not to raise it above 400 - otherwise noise will not be avoided. And, of course, there should be bright lighting.

Shooting in motion. Sometimes the user is faced with photographing moving objects - pets, Vehicle, athletes at competitions, etc. In such situations, the lens does not play a special role; the main thing is to pay attention to shutter speed. It should be as short as possible to achieve great clarity. Thus, you should activate the Tv mode (with shutter priority), select the value 1/1000 and set the sensitivity to automatic. The camera itself will select the required exposure and will not increase the ISO too much (especially if the shooting is carried out during the daytime).

Night photography. It requires a special fast lens (transmitting the maximum amount of light). The mode should be set to M (manual) and the light sensitivity should be reduced to 100 to avoid noise. Typically, exposure times can vary from 1 to 8 seconds, depending on the lighting. For night photography, you must install the DSLR on a tripod, since optical stabilization is not able to fully compensate for hand shake and the pictures will turn out blurry. This is especially true for long shutter speed settings.

conclusions

Thus, we were able to consider the main differences between DSLRs and amateur cameras, and also give useful tips related to the filming process. Now you know what modes your camera has, how to use the controls, and why you shouldn’t rely entirely on automatic settings. You also understood basic practical examples when you need to photograph architectural objects, portraits or moving objects. We hope that the information provided has helped you.

Naturally, if you are deeply interested in photography, you will need specialized literature, which can be found on the Internet. It has a deeper presentation of the material, so it will help you understand the intricacies of photographic art and achieve some professionalism. You also need regular practice in using your camera, since theoretical knowledge cannot guarantee correct handling of the equipment. If you follow these recommendations, you will be able to create high-quality photographs with correctly maintained exposure, shutter speed, etc. settings. This means they are attractive from an aesthetic point of view.

Also, for some users, training videos in which the authors talk about the correct use of a DSLR camera are suitable. Examples of photographing various objects, setting settings in the device menu, and changing lenses are shown. The advantage of such lessons is their clarity - all the actions taken can be repeated after the author of the video to achieve a similar result. It was thematic videos that helped many beginners become real photographers and understand this difficult art. We wish you to fully master the capabilities of the “DSLR” and enjoy the creative process.

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The main commandment of smartphone photography: it doesn’t matter how cool the camera is, what matters is who’s holding it. And with the most luxurious DSLR you can take clear, but boring photographs. The kind that lie on disk and no one opens them for years.

And you can do it interesting photos to your smartphone, especially since this equipment is always with you, you don’t have to uncover it for a long time and you won’t forget to remove the cover from the lens. And for the most part, smartphones are cheaper than DSLRs, which is also very pleasing.

website I’ve put together some tips for you on how to take cool photos using your smartphone.

Programs

A camera in a smartphone is, first of all, a program that maintains the lens and matrix. Therefore, you should not stop at what Android or iOS dictates to you. You may want to use different programs for different shooting occasions. Some give more interesting color rendition, others - slightly larger plans: Pudding Camera, CameraMX, Photosynth, VSCO Cam, Slow shutter cam, Pro HDR, Camera+, etc. Why limit yourself if you have a choice?

Having chosen a program, it’s worth delving into the settings. Set the image resolution to high, remember that in difficult cases you can play with white balance, ISO and turn off autofocus. And in general, find out what interesting things a specific program can do.

Zoom

Cropping as a replacement for zoom.

It’s better to forget once and for all that your smartphone has digital zoom. Such an increase in most cases is achieved by serious losses in image quality. The best zoom is the legs: come closer, move further away.

If this is not possible, then it is wiser to cut out the frame you need from a large photograph during post-processing. The cropping function is available even in the simplest programs. Plus, you don’t waste time adjusting the size, you just take it off. And already in a calm environment, you correctly compose the frame, without missing details that you could accidentally crop out while using the zoom in the field.

Series

Take several shots of the same scene. Subsequently, you can choose the most successful photo and work with it. And, before deleting photos from your smartphone, it’s a good idea to view them on your computer, since you may not notice them on your phone’s small screen nice photos just because they will appear overexposed or underexposed.

If it doesn’t turn out interesting, you should change the shooting angle.

When photographing something or someone, don't be afraid to change angles. You can take a photo head-on, or you can change the angle a little and get an interesting shot. Moreover, the compact size of the smartphone allows you to take angles for which a photographer with a large camera will have to work hard.

Light

The flash on a smartphone should be used very carefully. As a rule, it “deads” the photo, distorts colors and shadows. Flash is only good when you need to take pictures immediately, otherwise you'll miss the moment.

At the same time, light is the photographer's main tool. This is important for professional cameras, but for smartphones it is much more important. Therefore, always look for the light, pay close attention to how it falls on the subject, and you will get the shot.

Good light in the morning and evening. On a sunny afternoon, you will have to work with too high a contrast, which threatens with artifacts in the pictures. The pre-storm sky gives luxurious effects.

Object shooting

On the left is a photo with a lack of lighting, on the right is with a flashlight.

If you want to take a photo of something or someone at home, the smartphone can become stubborn - there is rarely enough light in the room. But you can take a simple LED flashlight and a sheet of white paper to compensate for the too harsh shadow. Let's say a flashlight is shining from above on the right, we bring a sheet of white paper to the left, which reflects the light of the flashlight and additionally illuminates the object, and press the button on the phone.

Lens Cleanliness

Frame through a fingerprint.

It would seem that an obvious thing is the cleanliness of the lens, but smartphone lovers often come across this issue. The phone is used constantly, lies in your pocket, and when you take it to answer a call or SMS, the last thing you remember is that you left a fingerprint on the glass of the lens. When shooting, this print gives, of course, a slight mysterious blur, but, as a rule, this is the effect you do not expect in the intended photo.

Response delay

It is important to take into account the fact that the shooting program in a smartphone in most cases operates with a delay. You have already pressed the button, but the camera is still thinking before taking a photo. Therefore, it is important to think proactively, like a hunter who shoots not at a hare, but at the place where, according to his assumption, the hare will be at the next moment.

Let's say you are photographing a flower in a field, and it is windy on that day, you need to take into account the speed of the camera and at the same time capture the moment between gusts of wind. It’s difficult, but the result will be more valuable due to the effort spent.

Post-processing programs

Simplest editing on Instagram.

Most people do post-processing of photographs. professional photographers, absolutely always in commercial photography, but for smartphone photography it is a vital necessity. You cannot adjust the shutter speed and aperture on a smartphone. This limitation is compensated for by a variety of post-processing programs. This is beyond the well-known Instagram and Flickr.

VSCO Cam. Allows you to apply a variety of filters and settings. Distributed free of charge.
Afterlight. Good for color correction. Costs 34 rubles.
Touch retouch. This simple tool allows you to remove minor imperfections in a photo and clone parts of the image. There are free and paid versions.
SnapSeed. Great amount filters and effects, such as tilt-shift and focus adjustment, sharpness and color adjustment. Distributed free of charge.
Pixlr Express. Large selection of filters, frames, effects. Completely free.
Photoshop Express. It doesn’t provide any special settings, but it does have a lot of different filters that make the processing process as fast as possible. Can work with RAW files. Free of charge.
Rookie. There are both free and paid features. The standard application package contains many vintage filters adapted for different genres of photography: portraits, landscapes, city sketches, macro, etc.
Phonto. Allows you to add any fonts you wish to your photo. Distributed free of charge.
Moldiv. A free application in Russian that allows you to make collages by combining up to 9 pictures.
MultiExpo(for iOS). An interesting application for creating a multiple exposure effect. Distributed free of charge.
Photo Grid. Free application for creating collages. Can work with high resolution files.
LensLight. The application allows you to add glare, glow and bokeh effects to your photos. Costs 99 rubles.

So, you bought (or begged from your parents) your first serious camera. Our congratulations! Often, when the puppyish delight of all these spinning wheels, mysterious buttons, interesting levers passes, then a completely logical question immediately arises: what should I do now to learn how to take beautiful photographs? Where is the magical mode called “100% Cool Shot”. How to learn to take cool photos?

In order not to fuel your confusion caused by the ominous words: ISO, aberration, bokeh and aperture, we decided to make it easier for you to find the information you need and have collected the most important and useful tips on the topic: “how to learn to take good photographs.” And we dedicate the resulting small reminder to you, aspiring amateur photographer.

How do you know how good your photo is?

First of all, you need to understand the concepts. How can you tell a good professional photograph from a bad one? First of all, you should pay attention to the lighting. You don’t have to immediately run to the store for professional studio equipment. Your main ally is a well-chosen angle, time and place of shooting, when natural lighting will show its the best side. From this we can conclude: the subject of shooting is not as important as what perspective you choose for this object.

If we talk about technology, then you can take a beautiful photo with anything, even with a phone that only has a 1 megapixel camera in its arsenal; the desire to learn is what is really important. Although professional photographic equipment will make your life much easier.

And now, you have a beautiful new camera with a bunch of buttons that you can’t wait to figure out. You must understand what your camera can do, what its advantages are and how they can be used to advantage. For example, you can’t make a good portrait with excellent depth of field using a point-and-shoot camera, but you can quite convey the mood of the photo and the composition.

How to learn to take photographs professionally?

Practical advice

Tip #1. The first thing you need to do is study the instructions for your unit in detail. You need to understand all the functions, find out what each of the buttons is for and what will happen if you turn that wheel over there. Most frequently asked question question that arises for beginners is: what mode should be used to do professional photos? Unfortunately, there is no one regime for all occasions. In order to learn how to take great photographs, you need to become more familiar with shutter speed and aperture. Getting to know shutter speed will give you magical shots of the city at night, and you'll fall in love with aperture when you start photographing people.

Tip #2. The next important aspect that you must master is the ISO value (photo sensitivity of the matrix). You need to understand that a beautiful landscape cannot be captured at high ISO values: noise will certainly arise. At night, it is advisable to photograph from a stand or from a tripod. And if the subject is in motion, and the shutter speed cannot be longer, then it is best to raise the ISO slightly so that the frame does not blur. For photographing restless children and animals.

Tip #3.The lens is also an important component of photography. It’s not difficult to guess that each lens has individual characteristics that in one way or another affect the final result. If you don’t know what the letters on your lens mean (what a shame), then immediately start studying the markings. The main parameter of any lens, which most influences its cost, is aperture. Before you spend extra money on another lens, figure out whether you really need it. Do you want to experience the mysterious depth of field or just enjoy a good focus? Knowledge is power that will help protect your wallet from unnecessary purchases.

Tip #4. In cases where there is not enough lighting, you have to use a flash. Keep in mind that the flash already in the camera is only useful when the main light source is behind the subject or in harsh daylight. You should not try to shoot indoors with the built-in flash, otherwise you are guaranteed to get a glare on your face and a not-so-nice shadow in the background. Although in order to achieve a certain mood of the photo you can break all the rules, the main thing is that the photo turns out “with soul”.

Tip #5. Don't ignore white balance. The color rendition in your photo depends on this. If you want to take a photo of a sunset that can get more than 100 likes, then learn how to configure this function correctly.

Tip #6. If your photos turn out blurry, then you shouldn’t immediately call your camera or lens unflattering names. Maybe it's all about you? See what you're doing wrong, check your settings.

Tip #7. Don’t forget about the possible appearance of chromatic aberrations, which like to creep into the frame along with the sun. Also be aware of diffraction, which can ruin sharpness in macro mode. Take into account distortion with wide-angle lenses as well. Google all these phenomena and learn their definitions by heart.

Tip #8. Remember about filters. A gradient filter will allow you to get an incredible effect, a polarizer will show the true beauty of the blue sky, and a protective filter can protect your lens from all kinds of scratches and water.

By following all these rules, you can easily take the “correct” photo. Beauty depends on emotions, ideas, mood, imagination: they can only be developed. Be inspired by the work of other photographers, communicate with colleagues and, of course, learn.

In our school you will find . You will not only learn to do beautiful pictures, but you will also master retouching, professional equipment and many other useful things.