METAL ETCHING- a group of technological methods for controlled removal of the surface layer of material from a metal workpiece under the influence of specially selected chemical reagents.

A number of ways METAL ETCHING provides for the activation of etching reagents through other physical phenomena, for example, the application of an external electric field during electrochemical etching, ionization of atoms and molecules of reagents during ion-plasma etching, etc.

In the literature, the term “etching” is usually accompanied by a definition explaining the specific etching technology- chemical, acidic, alkaline, electrochemical, etc. When the term “etching” is used without further definition, it usually means chemical etching of metal in an aqueous electrolyte.

For artistic metal etching , when part of the surface being etched needs to be preserved, it is protected (chemically or mechanically) by applying a special protective layer - a mask.

Main types metal etching the following:

1. chemical etching of metal- “liquid” etching
2. electrochemical METAL ETCHING - galvanic etching
3. ion plasma - “dry” etching

In his work on METAL ETCHING We use the most commonly used technologies: chemical etching of metal And galvanic etching.

METAL ETCHING - features

Etching, as one of the stages electroplating used for preliminary preparation metal products for the application of protective coatings. With its help, a previously degreased surface is cleaned of oxide films for better adhesion of the galvanic layer to the base.

For decorative purposes, we carry out various drawings and inscriptions on products (engraving) artistic metal etching .

Copper etching We widely use it for processing copper cliches, as well as in the manufacture of interior items.

We fulfill copper etching And brass etching chemical or galvanic method. We select the type of etching solution, its concentration and processing time individually, and the parameters of the solution depend on the thickness of the oxide film to be removed.

Chemical ETCHING OF METAL

Chemical etching of metal is a method of reproducing various designs, ornaments, textures, inscriptions, etc. using chemical means. on the surface of metal objects.

Chemical brass etching , chemical copper etching and their alloys is based on the reaction of special mordant compounds with the surface of the base, as a result of which oxide films dissolve. For processing, we use solutions of concentrated acids, in which the products are placed for a certain time. In this way we perform preliminary or glossy etching. Obtaining a matte or shiny surface when chemical etching of metal we regulate the degree of acid concentration and exposure time.

Galvanic etching

Galvanic method of etching metals also called electrochemical metal etching.

Technology galvanic etching has many advantages over chemical etching of metal and one of the features of this technology is the use of a galvanic battery.

The operation itself galvanic etching this method occurs much faster, and the contours of the etched pattern are sharper and more distinct.

Galvanic etching(electrochemical method) more economical etching technology both in time and in the volume of acid used.

In addition, the mordant does not contain caustic acids, as a result of which galvanic etching no gases harmful to health are formed.

At galvanic way etching copper and brass products (anode) are placed in galvanic bath with etching solution. We use solutions of orthophosphoric, hydrochloric and sulfuric acids as electrolytes. Reagents (lead salts) are added to the electrolyte to prevent over-etching of the surface. The oxide film is separated from the metal as a result of the release of oxygen.

If you carefully examine the drawing through a magnifying glass, chemically etched method, it will turn out that the edges of individual recessed lines are uneven and that the deeper the line, the wider it is etched. At galvanic etching the edges of individual lines are completely smooth, and the walls of the recesses are vertical.

Pre-treatment of an object is also used when galvanic etching.

The treated object, which serves as an anode, is suspended in galvanic bath, containing a mordant, on a wire that is soldered tin solder to an uncovered area, the soldering area is covered with varnish. The other end of the wire is connected to a plate of the same metal, which serves as a cathode. As a mordant for steel and iron, we use iron sulfate or ammonia solution; For copper etching, brass etching and bronze - a solution of copper sulfate; for zinc - zinc sulfate or a solution of zinc chloride oxide.

If you need to do and etch different parts of the drawing to different depths, then after a certain period of time we remove the object from galvanic bath, we rinse those places that do not need to be etched deeper, and apply a protective coating to them, and then hang the item again in galvanic bath and continue etching.

METAL ETCHING - types of products and our capabilities

METAL ETCHING- complex technology and trust to process products according to galvanic or chemical technology is needed only by professionals.

Our company has proven experience in performing galvanic etching And chemical etching metal with the highest quality.

We have all necessary equipment for execution METAL ETCHING and in case of a non-standard order, we are ready to manufacture any additional equipment for a specific individual order.

We use technology metal etching For copper etching And brass etching .

By using metal etching technology we carry out:

• applying texture or relief pattern when artistic treatment materials -
• production of award and corporate metal products: badges, badges, medals, plaques
• production of metal signs: facade signs and office signs
• production of clichés for embossing, metal seals and stamps of various shapes for marking, as well as wax seals with deep relief
• production of special prefabricated handles and equipment for metal seals
• production of heraldry, coats of arms and family symbols
• production of logos, brand marks, corporate style items
• production of interior items: panels, paintings, frames, wall panels
• production of metal objects for cladding walls, entrance lobbies, fireplaces, portals, grilles
• removing the surface layer of dirt, oxides, grease film, etc., for example, scale from metal workpieces
• chemical polishing of the surface and removal of the layer damaged during previous mechanical processing
• etc.

We produce metal signs and panels mainly using brass. This metal, under the influence external environment, oxidizes over time, so we cover the plates various types decorative coatings: gold, silver, nickel, bronze, which ensures their preservation for a long time. If necessary, the elements of the plate and panel can be painted over with colored enamels.

METAL ETCHING We make it in two ways: you can cover all the lines and surfaces of the drawing with a substance that is affected by the mordant; You can, on the contrary, protect all spaces from the action of acids, leaving the lines and surfaces of the drawing free. If you then cover the entire surface with acid, then in the first case the pattern will turn out to be slightly embossed, in the second case the pattern will appear in-depth.

Copper etching And brass etching in our production conditions virtually eliminates defects due to the use of special equipment and an established system for monitoring the preparation and metal etching.

Our company offers services galvanic etching both for individual and mass production.

After execution metal etching If necessary, we carry out grinding, patination and application of a protective layer.

METAL ETCHING – types of products

By using metal etching you can get a wide variety of products made of copper and brass, ranging from textured panels to art products and decorations.

Brass etching , textured panel

Brass etching , texture with volume

Copper etching, textured panel

Copper etching, textured surface with patterns

Brass etching , artistic drawing

Brass etching , art products

METAL ETCHING, art products

METAL ETCHING, art products

Brass etching , decorative decoration

METAL ETCHING - our work

METAL ETCHING- decorative motorcycle linings with an original design, part of motorcycle tuning, motorcycle linings are made of brass with relief engraving and three-dimensional image application, for contrast levels the background is blackened and matte polished

Brass etching- relief plates for decorating the facade of a country house

Brass etching- a copy of the coat of arms of the USSR for a gift case made of wood, on a metal coat of arms with a diameter of 6 cm, all elements are worked out with a high degree of detail, painted with enamels and artificial aging as a finish

Metal etching- family coat of arms of a noble family Russian Empire“Safonovs”, the relief coat of arms is made of brass, the background is oxidized, the top plan is polished, the finished coat of arms is placed in a frame according to the style

Brass etching- gift panel made of metal “Brahmananda Avadhuta”, diameter 36 cm; the portrait of the guru, the lotus and the decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, 2 types of grinding and polishing create shine and reflection of individual groups of elements of the composition

Brass etching- gift panel made of metal “Shiva”, diameter 33 cm; portrait and decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, combined polishing to a mirror shine

Brass etching- reproduction of the icon 15x18 cm, made using technology etching, line thickness 0.5 mm

Metal etching- aluminum skull emblem on the car grille, three-dimensional metal carving, etching of the pattern, assembling a composition from individual elements, oxidation, varnish

Metal etching- numbers for apartments made of nickel silver, made in high-tech style, relief chemical engraving, directional grinding to add color and texture, number size 7.5x4 cm

Brass etching- a beer wobbler made of brass for a cafe-buffet is made using chemical engraving technology, the size of the wobbler is 30x13 cm, the holder is contoured and soldered, matte grinding and contrasting blackening of the background are used

Nickel silver metal plates for decorating table clocks, relief metal etching with color filling, the size of metal plates is 13x9 and 13x5 cm, respectively, grinding the metal to a matte surface

Copies of orders for the restoration of the book “15 Years of the Komsomol” were made metal etching, made the Order of the Red Banner and the Order of the Red Banner of Labor, diameter 11 cm, convex relief, aging metal in the color of the original

Metal etching a copy of the personal seal of Metropolitan Moses was made (Byzantine period, 11th century), the work was made as a gift in a frame on blue velvet, 2-sided image, the diameter of each seal is 8 cm, color “antique silver”

Brass etching- metal belt buckle, made in a multi-level design, embossed background and relief image of letters and coat of arms, size 70x55 mm

A 2-sided nickel silver medal with a portrait on the front side and the Brandenburg Gate on the back side is made metal etching, relief image on metal 6 mm thick, medal diameter 6 cm, contrast blackening and matte polishing were used for finishing

A metal product for a special event is made brass etching in the form of a souvenir medal, diameter 15 cm, thickness 5 mm., the peculiarity of the medal is the relief application of inscriptions and detailed elaboration of the elements of the Spasskaya Tower, the surface is processed to a mirror polished state of the background, inscriptions and image

Family coat of arms made using technology metal etching, division of elements into zones, filling with colored translucent enamel, decorative frame, oxidation

Copper etching- damper for the stove, made in hunting style. Contour cutting of metal and chemical engraving of the design were used for manufacturing; decorative handles and legs were used for finishing, a frame along the contour with copper rivets

Brass etching- engraving “Temple of the Blessed Virgin Mary”, patination and blackening, framing

Metal etching- decorative panel “Pokrovsky Cathedral”, silvering, blackening, size 16x22 cm

2-sided Phaistos disk with a diameter of 10 cm with unique hieroglyphs, made using technology metal etching, perfect elaboration of the smallest details and contours with a line thickness of up to 0.2 mm, surface polishing and filling lines with color

2-sided Storozhevsky ring with a diameter of 10 cm with unique drawings containing information about the ancient calendar system, made using technology metal etching, detailed elaboration of the signs on the front surface of the ring and an unusual texture on the reverse side

2-sided Serponov ring with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of the artifact depicting a calendar and map ancient civilization, made using technology brass etching

A 2-sided star disk from Mittelberg with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of an artifact depicting the oldest world horoscope to date, made using technology brass etching, detailed elaboration of elements on the front side and texture on the back side

Brass etching- decorative napkin holder “Calvados”, size 18x3.5 cm, background etching and oxidation

Metal etching- hammered copper plate of the Church of St. Vyacheslav the Czech, diameter 35 cm, etching , oxidation, silvering

Metal etching- gift panel “Fan” made of nickel silver, relief engraving, polishing and blackening

Brass etching- nameplates for a wooden case with a weapon, made with a protruding relief, look great due to the design with a frame and the contour cut along the frame

Brass etching sign “Sun”, made according to the design of a child’s hand drawing with repetition of lines from the movement of the hand, the size of the brass plate is 15x10 cm, chemical engraving, blackening and polishing were used to contrast the background and image

Artistic metal etching , stainless steel etching- stainless steel numbers 3 mm, without filling and with graphite filling

METAL ETCHING, stainless steel etching- stainless steel indicators, enamel filling, grinding, edge processing

Artistic metal etching , brass etching - 3 mm brass plate, “Letters of repentance”

Brass etching- decorative hanger element, antique finish

Artistic metal etching , brass etching - 5 mm brass plate, “Bag of Happiness”

Artistic metal etching , brass etching

Artistic metal etching , brass etching – panels for interior decoration

Artistic metal etching , brass etching – panels for interior decoration

Artistic METAL ETCHING - cost

Cost of manufacturing a product using technology galvanic etching or chemical etching of metal depends on the following parameters:

• product material
• product size and geometry
• availability of a sketch or drawing of the product
• complexity of the drawing and depth of the drawing
• necessary finishing
• method of fastening the product
• special wishes of the Customer for the product

average cost metal etching for a product of average complexity is 50-60 thousand rubles per 1 sq. m products.

Order METAL ETCHING you can use by email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots; to view it you need to have JavaScript enabled or use the phone number from the contacts section.

Order art copper etching And brass etching with us and you will receive best quality and original performance.

Good evening everyone! Due to popular demand, I am making a MK on artistic copper etching!!
In this example, we will use Laser Ironing Technology (hereinafter referred to as LUT)!
For this we need
-Laser printer
-Iron
-Ferric chloride
-Well, copper itself
To etch a drawing, we first need the drawing itself, find the drawing, adjust it to the size you need with any program convenient for you! You need to print this drawing on a laser printer and glossy paper! If you don’t have glossy paper for photos, you can use sheets from the Natalie magazine and etc!
If you are completely hopeless, there is no laser printer or paper! We go to the nearest company where they print on T-shirts, mugs, etc.
with a pre-prepared drawing on a flash drive! Printing such a sheet costs 1 UAH! I will write prices in local currency for Russia, multiply by 3! Of course, we still need ferric chloride, you can buy it in radio stores, 200 grams of this potion costs 20 UAH!
Process!
First, we need to ferment our ferric chloride since it must stand for another 20-30 minutes after fermentation!

We take dishes from any material, just not iron, most often it’s a 0.5 liter jar, fill it with cold liquid, we need to dilute it, 10 parts water, one part cold liquid, I usually do this by eye, dilute it to the color of strong black tea! Take care of your hands and clothes!
We've fermented everything, let it sit there while all the chemical processes take place and prepare the drowned man!)
I already had a printout prepared in advance, these are such beautiful lizards, they will appear on the future pendant!!

The metal also needs to be prepared, it is important that the metal is smooth without depressions or bumps, otherwise our drawing will not be translated or will be translated with gaps, which is not what we need at all!))
I prepared a piece of copper 1 mm thick, I advise you 1 mm no less because etching, and etching reduces the thickness of the metal!
Clean, degrease, nail polish remover works well for these purposes, I use solvent 646!

After degreasing, it is advisable not to touch the part to which we will transfer the drawing with your hands!
Take the iron, turn it on, let it heat up as much as possible, then place our lizards, pattern down, on the metal

and place the iron on top, do it carefully; if there are strong jerks or shifts, the paper may move and the drawing will be smeared, let it lie there for about 5 minutes!

Then we begin to stroke our drawing with the nose of the iron, very carefully, making sure that the paper does not move, if you notice that it has moved, tear everything off, degrease it, and do it all over again!! It may not work the first time, so I make 5 copies 6 of each drawing for these circumstances!
We ironed for another 5 minutes, as you can see in the photo, the pattern began to transfer to the other side, this is good, it means everything went fine, if you do not see any part of the pattern, additionally go over the iron in that place!

Now we throw this whole sandwich into the water (we don’t throw the iron))) let it lie in the water for about 5 minutes, then we start rolling up the paper, don’t tear it off or anything like that, but roll it up, if it doesn’t roll well, let it sour some more!! Then this white coating remains, it is usually in small places, we have such places on our fingers, eyes, back! Gently remove this plaque with a toothpick, it comes off easily!!

We looked at everything to see if it translated well, there are times when something is not translated somewhere, gaps, etc., you can use a needle and nail polish to correct these gaps! We drill a hole for the thread, which we will then tie to the metal so that we can lower it into a jar and take out the time from time to see what’s there!))
The next thing we need is to protect the part that we don't want to etch, the back part can be painted over with nail polish!! I also make an outline around the lizard, for my own purposes!! You don't have to do it!!
We dried everything, tied a thread and put it in a jar, the jar can be put in a warm place, so the process will go faster! Sometimes take it out, every 20 minutes, and watch how the etching process is going!! We need to etch somewhere half the metal! For this we need 4 hours -5 etching! In general, I can’t say the exact time since it is always different!!

it's been a couple of hours

So we took out our etched part, washed it, wiped it with solvent again to remove the toner! Then we cleaned it, sanded it, and basically finished the workpiece!!
Here's a plate with a lizard!!

Don't look at how full of holes it is, I really need it!!

Materials used:
- sheet brass 0.6mm
- ferric chloride hexahydrate, also known as FeCl3*6H2O, also known as ferric chloride hexahydrate
- film for laser printing
- moment adhesive “Moment Gel” from Henkel on a cyanoacrylate basis
- other (office paper, laser printer, water)
- wooden sticks
- glass or plastic container

You will also need desire and patience!

Let's start by preparing the design for etching. I use both vector and raster graphics.
I always check that the color of the image is “absolutely” black.
Next, I print the image to see how it looks on paper. I always display two images (in case the image from the film onto the brass does not transfer well, there will be a backup option).

Then I take the film for laser printing.

Before printing, I set it in the settings laser printer, either the maximum resolution, or I remove the toner saving mode (it all depends on the printer model used). Now pay attention - it is imperative to set a MIRROR print, so that after etching you can get the correct image. In the case of symmetrical designs, this is not necessary.


Then I cut out the required fragment.
Then I cut out a piece of sheet brass to fit the fragment.


Getting ready to transfer the image to brass.
Next, a small moment, but it really saves your nerves.
How to fix the film on brass so that it does not move off during ironing?
It’s very simple - we place microdroplets of Moment Gel glue in the corners of the plate and place the film on the plate. In this case, I have six droplets - four in the corners and two in the middle. Ready.


We place the brass with the film on a flat surface; I use a piece of chipboard and a thick layer of paper. On top of it I place a regular A4 sheet folded in half.


Next we proceed to shamanism. Here, as they say, until you try it yourself and feel it, it won’t work.


I set the heat on the iron to almost maximum. We begin to warm up the surface - move the iron directly over a sheet of paper evenly in all directions, pressing the iron tightly against the paper for about 20-30 seconds. And so about five times.

The criterion for readiness is the manifestation of the “relief” of the film, i.e. if you look at the surface from a large angle, you can see that the film in places where there is paint, the film has a convex surface.


Then, under water, I carefully peel off the film - everything is transferred perfectly.


If there are small gaps somewhere, then I carefully take the same Moment Gel glue on the tip of the needle and “paint over” these places. Gel precisely because it does not spread and can be spot-painted over. Next, we cut off the excess pieces of brass so as not to waste the etching solution.


Then we protect the back surface. You can use Tsapon-varnish, but I still use the same Moment Gel glue. When working with this glue you need to be careful, because... It is cyanoacrylate based and the vapors may irritate the mucous membranes of the eyes.


Almost everything is ready for etching. All that remains is to make a device to hold our workpiece. I use wooden sticks tied with an elastic band (reminiscent of a large clothespin).


The sticks are varnished so that they do not get wet and do not rot in the etching solution.
Next, take a six-aqueous solution of ferric chloride and add it to the water.


(BE careful, if you take an anhydrous solution of ferric chloride, you should always pour the powder into the water, and not vice versa, because a strong exothermic reaction occurs and the entire contents may end up on you).
We place our “clothespin” with the workpiece in the solution. The etching process begins.


The image, naturally, should be directed downwards. Then, approximately every 5-15 minutes, it is advisable to take out the workpiece and watch how the etching proceeds, and rinse the workpiece under running water at room temperature.


This is done in order to wash away the deposits that form, which inhibits etching.


If you have a magnetic stirrer, you can place it under the container and turn it on - the etching process will go faster.
Next, during the etching process, we look - when the etching depth suits us, we stop etching. We clean everything carefully. It is better to close and pack the container with ferric chloride very well (if it spills, it will be quite problematic to wash off the red stains). We are happy with the result.


Next, remove the protective layer from the back side (easily removed with a regular knife) and then work with the workpiece. I hope this lesson will be useful. Good luck to everyone in their creativity and new works. May the power of STEAM be with us!

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving; it makes the whole process much simpler. You can get a design that is both concave - relief, and convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical or galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

You need to take a power supply or transformer that can output from 4 to 7 V. In addition, you will need a dielectric bath; it must contain the necessary part and a second metal object that is connected to the anode.

To etch a pattern on metal, you must use iron sulfate. If the design is needed on a copper or brass surface, then use it. You can also use it. The main thing is that the water is distilled.

Preparing the part for etching

In order for the etching to be uniform and in the right places, the part must be cleaned of dirt and also degreased. For more comfortable work, a copper wire is soldered onto the part with tin, it will be convenient to hold the item. To clean the surface, you need to dip the object to be converted into 10% sodium hydroxide, the temperature of which is 50°C, then into a 15% sulfuric acid solution and hold it there for two minutes, then rinse it in hot water. When the procedure is completed, the surfaces of the object will be completely cleaned, and of course, you cannot touch them with your hands.

Electrochemical etching of metal

We need to protect areas that should not be etched. To do this, you need to apply a special mastic to these surface areas. It is made from three parts of wax and two parts of rosin, they are melted in tin can, stirring. After everything turns into a homogeneous mass, it is allowed to cool and divided into fragments. Each of them is placed in gauze so that later, when pressed, as much mastic as necessary can seep through it. After this, the workpiece that we will etch heats up. Now we take the created mixture, which was placed in gauze, and rub the surface with an even layer.

After cooling, the mastic becomes hard. The top is coated with light water-soluble paint. This can be watercolor or gouache white. After which the coating should dry. Then you can apply the design; it will stick well to the paint. It can be depicted using a pencil or translated using carbon paper. Then this outline needs to be scratched with a needle all the way to the metal.

Now the etching of the metal by electrolysis begins, we connect one rod to the anode - plus, the other to the cathode - minus. We connect the part on which the image will be applied to the first, and any steel plate to the second. After this, the process of etching the metal begins where the image was scratched.

If you need to create a multi-level drawing, everything is done in the same way as described above. Only the contours are checked each time, and when the smallest of them have been etched to the required depth, the part is removed and painted over with heated mastic using a brush. When it hardens, everything is repeated again until the next level of the drawing. In this process, an image is gradually created.

In this way, metal is etched at home, after which the surface is washed with turpentine and then polished, giving the product a finished look.

Chemical etching

Now let's look at how to create a pattern on a metal surface without the use of electrical devices. To do this, we need chemicals that are freely sold in hardware stores. So, let's begin. For etching we need:

• "White Spirit";
• paint that does not dissolve in White Spirit;
• acetone;
• resin, which is used to cover roofs;
• table salt;
• copper sulfate.

Cleaning the part

To begin with, the part where the image is planned is cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased. When the surface is ready, you need to seal the place where the design will be applied with adhesive tape or something similar. After this, the entire remaining surface, where chemical etching should not affect the metal, is painted over. It can be of any color, as long as it is resistant to White Spirit.

Once the paint is dry, you can remove the adhesive tape. Beneath it is clean metal, ready to create a design on it. Now you need to apply an image onto this “mini-canvas”. It is made using resin, which is dissolved in White Spirit until it becomes liquid, like paint. Use it to paint the desired image using a brush. What’s good about this kind of improvised paint is that if something doesn’t work out in the drawing, you can remove it by moistening a cloth or cotton swab in White Spirit. If there are very small details in the drawing that did not turn out well with a brush, they can be corrected with a needle, scraping off the excess after drying.

In this way, you can etch a knife, keys, in general, any metal object. Now that the drawing is completely ready, you can begin the etching itself.

Etching solution

We need a liter of water, in which we need to dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate, and then add salt. It needs to be sprinkled until it stops dissolving. The resulting mixture will have a blue color. However, after a metal object is immersed in it, the color will begin to change to green.

So, let's dive into the detail. The chemical process begins immediately. In all this production, no substances harmful to health are released, so this metal etching at home is safe.

Actions during a chemical reaction

During the reaction, a plaque forms, which will become more and more numerous. It slows down the whole process, so you need to periodically wash it off with water. You should not do this using various brushes, brushes and other tools, because you can damage the paint. But it seems to hold the entire design, and it would be a shame if, while etching a knife, for example, you inadvertently damage the design on it. This is a very delicate work that requires a steady hand and patience.

The depth of the pattern directly depends on the time during which the metal remains in the solution. There are no exact criteria, so each master must observe the progress of the chemical reaction himself. And only after doing this several times will it be possible to say with confidence how much time is needed to develop the desired pattern to the intended depth.

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

The advantages of electrochemical etching of metal at home include the fact that the created pattern is clearer, this is clearly visible if you look at it with magnification. However, the downside is that this method requires electrical appliance, which may not be for everyone.

The advantages of chemical etching include the fact that everything you need can be bought at a hardware store. These ingredients are cheap, and, most importantly, you don’t need to look anywhere for a power supply or other devices capable of delivering from 4 to 7 V. However, the disadvantage is the imperfect edges of the pattern.

teppo 07-01-2011 17:07

Good day everyone. Who etched brass electrochemically, tell me how it is, is it worth it? I would like to decorate a brass guard with etched patterns.

Ashedow 07-01-2011 17:13

Etched in saline solution. It pickles quite well, I didn’t notice any peculiarities.

andr...sergey 07-01-2011 17:28

quote: Etched in saline solution. It pickles quite well, I didn’t notice any peculiarities.

Nestor74 07-01-2011 17:33

I poisoned in KhZh, it seemed like Naman was poisoned, but I didn’t like the result

beard-fish 07-01-2011 18:25

in the khzh I etched... at a depth of 0.5\1 mm, the khzh climbs UNDER the paint drawing... and it is etched with cavities - the background is not uniform, but if you make a cut into the etched material (with the same copper) - the result is quite similar ...

Avante 07-01-2011 19:11

As a child, coins were polished off, then wax/paraffin was applied, the design was scratched with a needle and filled with regular iodine from the pharmacy. The black pattern on the brass remained

teppo 07-01-2011 20:20

Soooo, everything is clear, thank you for the answers. This means that there is a boom in a solution of table salt, just like steel.

anvar 08-01-2011 03:00

This means that there is a boom in a solution of table salt, just like steel.

Just don't forget to post the result.

teppo 10-01-2011 15:08

Eeeeh, it won't be soon. After changing my place of residence and work, I have little time for knives, and most importantly, I have not equipped a place for creativity.

Penzyak 58 10-01-2011 19:52

I also tried poisoning using this method once. I was not very pleased with the result. It was etched by tenths of a millimeter and that’s it. But I think it was a matter of current strength. There weren't enough amps for the trip. But the drawing comes out beautifully beautiful

nilex 10-01-2011 20:05

Not amperes At direct current, some brass alloys are passivated by electrolysis products (visible by the current - it drops noticeably) - either mechanically or perverted with alternating-pulse current.

teppo 10-01-2011 23:38

quote: I was not very pleased with the result.

quote: either mechanically or perverted with alternating-pulse current.

Penzyak 58 11-01-2011 10:05

to nilex:
During etching, a pink-red oxide appeared. She seemed to be blocking the further process. Next time I'll try to mechanically remove it and etch it again. By the way, I tried a laptop charger. The quick cutter is so busy that it becomes scary to see if he can cope with the task.

nilex 11-01-2011 22:24

quote: Originally posted by teppo:

Damn it! I just decided on a method, like those on.

Be sure to try it! The process is fascinating and, probably, the most affordable - table salt (a completely “adult” electrolyte is obtained), a power source, preferably with short-circuit protection, a piece of stainless steel/graphite for electrodes and utensils for everyone.
Well, a tester, if you really want reproducible experiments - voltage, current density, etc.
But running a brush over a part, or experimenting with alternating current is not a difficult task.

Barm 11-01-2011 22:32

quote: Originally posted by Penzyak 58:

I tried a laptop charger.

Penzyak 58 12-01-2011 09:20

To Barm:
To be honest, I don’t know a damn thing about electricity. Previously, when etching, I used a 12-volt power supply. I was pleased with the results. And when I tested the charger for the laptop, I was shocked - it eats metal many times better. I’ll be home on the 16th, I’ll write down the charger parameters (maybe it’s some kind of clever twist)

Barm 12-01-2011 10:47

No... I don’t suffer, I use a car battery charger.

teppo 12-01-2011 11:42

quote: Be sure to try it! The process is fascinating and, probably, the most affordable - table salt (a completely “adult” electrolyte is obtained), a power source, preferably with short-circuit protection, a piece of stainless steel/graphite for electrodes and utensils for everyone.

quote: No... I don’t suffer, I use a car battery charger.