If you plan to use your greenhouses in winter period, think over a solution to the issue of organizing heating even before the first cold weather approaches. The easiest way to solve the problem is when a heating main is laid under the site. In such a situation, all that remains is to choose a place for connection and install suitable batteries in the greenhouse.

In other cases, the heating problem has to be solved on its own. There is nothing complicated about it. There are many different systems available, so you can easily create the most efficient heating system that best suits your greenhouse.

Before you begin arranging any kind of heating, the greenhouse must be properly insulated.

First step. Dig a hole about 15 cm deep across the entire area of ​​the greenhouse or at least in free places.

Second step. Cover the bottom of the pit with thermal insulation material. Foam boards are usually used.

Third step. Cover the insulation with a waterproofing film, usually polyethylene.

Fourth step. Cover the resulting “pie” with a small layer of sand, and then with the earth dug at the very beginning.

Thanks to this device, satisfactory conditions will be maintained in the greenhouse even at a temperature outside the window of -5-10 degrees. However, this solution cannot be considered as full-fledged heating. This is basic thermal insulation, which must be used in combination with other heating methods.

Small greenhouses can be heated using primitive air units. All the necessary elements are available at any summer cottage or are sold in a hardware store for pennies.

First step. Buy or find an unnecessary steel pipe on the farm. A product with a length of about 250 cm and a diameter of approximately 60 cm is suitable.

Second step. Insert the end of the pipe into the greenhouse room. The second end of the pipe must be led outside. A fire is built under the “street” end of the pipe.

The street air will be heated by the flame of the fire and enter the greenhouse through the pipe. Heating is indeed very simple in its organization, but it cannot be called convenient. First, for the system to work, you need to keep the fire burning. Secondly, it will not be possible to regulate the heating intensity and temperature in the greenhouse.

Heating with gas

Gas-based heating has many advantages. The modern market offers a wide variety of units and devices with which you can organize the most efficient heating in accordance with the needs of a specific user. In addition, gas is one of the most inexpensive energy sources.

If you plan to constantly heat your greenhouses with gas, you will have to buy a boiler and lay the necessary pipes. This will require a relatively large amount of money. Additionally, you will have to spend money on installing a high-quality ventilation system.

If there is no need for a full-fledged gas heating device, buy several fuel cylinders and set up a heating system based on them.

Traditional stove heating is characterized by high efficiency and relatively simple installation. For example, you can build without any special financial investments stove with a horizontal chimney.

First step. Place the stove firebox in the vestibule of your greenhouse. Performed traditional brickwork.

Second step. Lay a chimney under the beds or along the length of the greenhouse. It can also be laid under the racks.

Third step. Lead the chimney through the greenhouse wall. Consider placing the pipe so that it can effectively remove combustion products while passing over areas that need heating.

Place the stove so that its firebox is at a distance of at least 25-30 cm from the end wall of the greenhouse.

You can also make a furnace from a metal barrel.

First step. Prepare a metal barrel with a volume of about 250 liters. Cover the inner walls of the container with two layers of paint to prevent the material from rusting.

Second step. Mark and cut holes for the stove, chimney pipe, drain valve (installed at the bottom) and expansion tank (placed at the top).

Third step. Weld the stove (usually a rectangular structure is made from sheet steel in accordance with the dimensions of the barrel) and install it in the container.

Fourth step. Remove the chimney from the barrel. The length of the "street" part of the pipe must be at least 500 cm.

Fifth step. Attach the expansion tank to the top of the barrel. You can buy a ready-made container or weld it yourself from sheet metal. A tank of 20-25 liters will suffice.

Sixth step. Weld heating units of suitable length from profile pipes measuring 400x200x15 (focus on the dimensions of the greenhouse). The pipes themselves must be laid on the ground with a step of about 120-150 cm.

Seventh step. Buy and install a hydraulic pump. The system will be heated using water, so it will not be possible to do without a pump.

Any type of wood is suitable for burning such a stove. For maximum efficiency, install an electronic temperature sensor in the greenhouse, and for greater convenience, place a digital control panel in the house or other suitable place.

A simple and fairly effective heating of a greenhouse can be built on the basis of an empty fire extinguisher with the top cut off.

First step. Attach a heating element (heating element) with a power of about 1 kW to the bottom of the housing. Typically, the heating elements of electric samovars and other similar devices have similar power, so there will be no problems finding the necessary part.

Second step. Attach the cut off top of the fire extinguisher to its body using loops.

Third step. Connect two water pipes to the fire extinguisher body. The second ends of these pipes will be connected to the heating battery. To secure the pipes, use nuts and rubber gaskets.

Fourth step. Install necessary funds automation. The optimal scheme is using a relay. For example, the MKU-48 model is suitable.

When the temperature in the greenhouse drops below the permissible value, the temperature sensor will close contacts K1 and water heating will begin. The liquid will transfer the generated heat to the greenhouse. When the water reaches the required temperature, the power to the relay will stop and the heater will turn off on its own.

You can try to make heating from a heating element and a number of pipes. Even used pipes will do. Recommended pipe sizes were given in the previous section.

Arranging such heating will require you to have skills in working with a welding machine.

For heating, a 50 liter boiler with a 2 kW heater is suitable. When heated, the liquid will rise into the expansion tank installed above, and from there it will be fed into the laid pipes. Pipes should be laid with a slight downward slope.

First step. Prepare the base for the cauldron. The functions of the base can be performed by a piece of pipe of fairly large diameter. A bottom with a flange must be welded to one side of such a pipe.

Second step. Connect the heating elements using an electrical wire to the working plug. The wires must be insulated.

Third step. Install a sealing gasket at the junction of the boiler body and the flange.

Fourth step. Make an expansion tank from metal sheets. A container with a volume of 25-30 liters will be sufficient. Weld couplings on both ends and at the bottom of the tank, through which the tank will be connected to the heating system and the riser of your homemade boiler.

Fifth step. Cut out the cap on the expansion tank to add water.

Sixth step. Prepare the threads at the ends of the heating pipes and connect the pipes into a single system.

Seventh step. Ground the boiler. Grounding is performed using a 3-core copper cable. Its two conductors are connected to the phases of the heating element. The remaining core is connected to the housing of the heating unit.

This heating device, as already noted, can be placed in a convenient corner of the greenhouse. You can also allocate a place for the boiler in another room.

Heating using "warm floor"

If there are sufficient Money you can organize heating of the greenhouse using a “warm floor”. Modern designs of heated floors are presented in several variations. Select a suitable system taking into account the area of ​​the greenhouse and the basic conditions for further heating operation. The most commonly used systems are made in the format of a waterproof heating mat.

First step. Remove about 40 cm of soil.

Second step. Fill the bottom of the resulting depression with a layer of sifted sand. A 5-10 cm layer of backfill will be sufficient.

Third step. Place insulation in the hole. It is best to use moisture-resistant materials such as polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam, etc.

Fourth step. Place waterproofing material on the insulation. Typically polyethylene film is used.

Fifth step. Place about a 5cm layer of sand on top of the waterproofing. Moisten the backfill with water. Wet sand needs to be compacted well.

Sixth step. Lay the underfloor heating wire on top of the compacted sand backfill. Usually the heating element is laid in a “snake” pattern. Lay the cable in increments of about 15 cm.

Seventh step. Cover the installed heating system with a 5-10 cm layer of sand.

Eighth step. Lay a chain-link mesh over the backfill.

Ninth step. Fill the resulting “pie” with the previously dug soil.

To ensure better and safer heating operation, it is recommended to connect a thermostat and a temperature control sensor to the heated floor.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in independently arranging the heating of a greenhouse. You just need to choose the appropriate option and do everything according to the instructions.

Good luck!

Heating a greenhouse is the key to a rich harvest

Video - Do-it-yourself heating of a greenhouse in winter

What does high-quality heating give us for a stationary greenhouse? Possibility to grow crops all year round. It is for these purposes that many people arrange to heat greenhouses with their own hands from any materials - polycarbonate, glass, even film. To constantly maintain and maintain a favorable microclimate inside for plant growth. The question “How to do it yourself, and what to consider?” remains relevant for many, so let’s consider it in more detail.

Real and unrealistic methods of heating greenhouses

We want to figure out how to make greenhouse heating with our own hands from available materials, and even in an economical way?

Therefore, we will consider real, and not fantastic and too expensive options that can be found on an industrial scale.

1. Electric heating is a thing of the past. This method exists, and it even works very productively, but we can easily buy expensive potatoes, as well as tomatoes and cucumbers at the market all year long - it will be cheaper.
2. Gas is also not our option. Putting a gas pipeline in place or storing cylinders on site is expensive, inconvenient, and even dangerous. In addition, you will not be able to work with gas without specialists; you will simply be fined. It turns out that this is no longer heating greenhouses with your own hands, but with the involvement of professionals, where your lot is “bring and serve.”
3. with a hog - this is normal stove heating with a horizontal chimney. Very practical, accessible to all “Homemade” people, inexpensive. But it’s “angry”, albeit cheap. It is necessary to place the stove inside the greenhouse itself or in the vestibule, lay horizontal chimney pipes under the shelves, and ensure normal exhaust and draft. Minus - the long length of the homemade chimney, obligatory fistulas in the connections and penetration is not large quantity carbon monoxide inside greenhouses.
4. Do-it-yourself water heating in a greenhouse is a process of seriously improving the stove option. It takes longer and costs a little more, but has a reasonable argument: high efficiency, safety and low fuel costs. Especially if you install a pellet or pyrolysis stove.

Retreat-advice!

Why is it worth paying attention to last option, especially with pyrolysis ovens? The stove, as already said, has high efficiency, but the main advantage, which is very important for modern summer residents, is the time between laying firewood. Or not wood, but any other type of fuel, it doesn’t matter.

You can also install a liquid fuel boiler as a heating unit. It will also add advantages to your autonomous greenhouse heating system: it has automation of the combustion process itself, as well as a fairly long period of fuel loading (refueling).

Do not forget about the “old-fashioned” methods of warming the soil, and additionally use natural products. For example, horse manure - great way warm the soil without heating systems.

After being applied to the fertile layer, horse manure will heat the soil in your greenhouse to +60 within a week, and then will maintain this temperature for at least another three months, and in general – up to 150 days! Isn't it better to buy horse manure from a neighbor in the country rather than install a soil heating system under the shelving? In this case, heating the air will suffice.

Practice: making heating in a greenhouse

Initial data

Let’s take a polycarbonate greenhouse as “Given” and create heating in the greenhouse with our own hands from scratch. (See) Let the area be 25 m2, then it will be easy to start with calculations and technology for your own volume. And we’ll immediately take into account the possibility of subsequent expansion of your greenhouse: you never know, you’ll like it and you’ll design another place for watermelons. Under the melon, that is.

Let's not stir up the manure, and we will assume that you did not purchase it. Well, nowhere, in Moscow and the region, there are so many horses! Then your heating system will consist of two circuits or parts:

1. Ambient air heating system.
2. Ground (soil) heating system.

Rationale

It is clear for what purposes soil heating is needed. There are roots in the soil, and the environment for them also needs to be heated. And soil is a much better conductor of heat than air. Accordingly, the cold.

If the optimal regime is not maintained, the plants will seriously slow down their growth or simply die, and you will not have a single tomato in the winter.

Warming up the soil is similar to a heated floor system in a house, but is slightly different:

• The pipe through which water flows or hot air passes is laid in the drainage or not. To install drainage, it is preferable to use small expanded clay as the main material, and cover it with geotextile on top (this special material, which allows water to pass in one direction, is sold in abundance in specialized stores). The covering is necessary so that the soil (soil) does not penetrate into the drainage.
• Instead of a concrete base, such a “warm floor system” has loose soil, which is also constantly moistened.

Variations on an aerial theme

We decided on the heating of the soil, now we need to choose a method of heating the air, that is, in fact, a heating option. Let's focus on two:

• The classic option: do-it-yourself heating of greenhouses with registers around the entire perimeter, completely welded from thick-walled pipes of a rather large diameter. The problem is in the material itself, which is Lately the price has seriously risen, and the problem is in a normal welder who will weld all the seams beautifully (in the sense, hermetically and for a long time). It will still work - not with your own hands.

When choosing this option, take into account the biggest disadvantage - the huge working volume of the coolant, and also the relatively small area where the heat exchange process occurs. The efficiency of your boiler in this case is greatly reduced.

• Batteries around the perimeter – there is less water in the system, and all the advantages associated with this point. Including, you do not need to call a welder. The heat exchange area is large, the return is maximum. The efficiency is higher. You can install a variety of batteries, especially those that you removed from the house yesterday when you were doing new system heating. It won't be expensive at all!

In general, it doesn’t matter which batteries are installed, because they will all have approximately the same efficiency. When installing, keep in mind that the maximum coolant pressure will be no more than 1.5 bar, while almost any battery is designed to withstand a pressure of 5-6 bar. You can not really care about the strength of the connections. At least there is no need to paint the carvings.

Pipe question

Much attention must be paid to the piping system so as not to spend more than is required for the normal functioning of the equipment. If you are installing radiators, there is no point in running expensive metal pipes from the boiler to the radiators; you can get by with unstacked polypropylene.

1. Firstly, it's cheaper.
2. Secondly, polypropylene pipes do not corrode.
3. Plastic can withstand “defrosting the system” well when we “overlooked” and created an emergency situation. The ice that forms in the pipes during “defrosting” will not tear the polypropylene, while the metal will fail not only in the joints, but also in the seams, if the pipes are seamed. If they are seamless, so much the worse: the gap will be in the most unexpected place.
4. Polypropylene is an excellent heat insulator, so the coolant will not lose temperature as it approaches the radiator.

Bottom wiring is preferable, especially during installation - the issue of convenience of attaching pipes is resolved. Especially if the radiators are not mounted on flimsy polycarbonate walls, but are installed directly on the foundation with bottom mounting.

At the entrance to the radiators, it is advisable to equip the pipes with ball valves or thermal valves in order to regulate the temperature in different parts of your huge greenhouse for specific plants.

Boiler and chimney

With heating, this means not only hanging radiators and laying pipes, but also installing a boiler with a chimney.

The heating boiler can be placed either inside the greenhouse itself or placed in the heated room itself, which will further increase the efficiency of the entire system. The heat transfer from the boiler to the surrounding space will be unambiguous, so the air temperature in the greenhouse will increase.

But in the first option, you don’t have to go inside the greenhouse at all while loading the boiler with fuel. The second option not only improves productivity and efficiency, but also seriously saves space.

Laying out a brick oven is not an option, because for a greenhouse it will be too bulky and labor-intensive, unless you have a greenhouse of regional significance. Ready-made heating boilers are not that expensive, but they are compact, efficient and easy to use. The boiler issue is closed.

Now the chimney: this is perhaps the most important part of the entire heating system. It’s probably worth putting the chimney on a light foundation, installing a supporting channel or pipe and attaching the main structure to it. This is for black pipes, that is, for ordinary material under the chimney.

We shallowed out the horizontal version of the chimney. Therefore, we do not expect high efficiency from the smoke removal system in terms of air heating. We make the chimney as short as possible and reliable in terms of sealing, so that combustion products do not get inside the greenhouse. It is best to buy a sandwich chimney and place it vertically directly from the boiler - then there will be no need for a foundation.

Install the structure not higher than 7.5 meters, but not lower than 6 meters- this is the optimal height for good traction. Both the boiler and the chimney can be mounted using a simple, classic heating scheme. And now connect the circuits to the boiler - according to your project.

Conclusion

A long-burning boiler is the best option that yours wants. With such a system, you will not live near the loading door of the firebox, and the plants will grow in an optimal microclimate. The main thing that is needed for this is desire and a measured approach. Spontaneity is the lot of lazy people and adventurers!

To maintain a certain temperature regime in the greenhouse, different heating systems are used. The choice of heat supply method depends on the size of the building, the climatic conditions of the region, the availability of a particular type of fuel, financial capabilities and other factors.

Some home craftsmen undertake to organize the heating of the greenhouse with their own hands - such a solution will significantly reduce labor costs, don’t you agree? Of course, independently arranging stable heating is not an easy task, but it is quite achievable. The first step is to choose a heat source.

We will tell you what greenhouse heating options exist, what are their specific features, advantages and disadvantages of use. Based on the information presented, you will be able to decide on the type of heating, perform a preliminary calculation of thermal power, and select working units and elements of the system.

Heating a greenhouse is necessary to compensate for heat loss that occurs through the walls and ceiling of the structure, as well as due to the entry of outside air. To reduce heating costs, it is first necessary to properly insulate the greenhouse and minimize air exchange with the street.

In addition to the material from which the greenhouse is made, special attention should be paid to the tight fit of the structure to the soil. To do this, it is better to make a shallow foundation insulated from the inside when constructing a greenhouse.

It must reliably hold the structure in strong winds, prevent the formation of cracks and minimize heat exchange with the street through the top layer of soil.

To solve the last problem, even in the conditions of the northern regions, a depth of 30 centimeters is sufficient, since the thermal conductivity of the soil is very low. The intensity of vertical heat exchange between the soil layer inside the greenhouse and the underlying soil layer is very small.

In winter, snow can be used as a natural external insulation along the edges of the greenhouse.

Snow is an excellent thermal insulation material. However, the greenhouse structure must be able to withstand additional weight, and the material must not bend under its weight.

For normal plant growth, it is necessary to maintain the temperature of the air and soil-vegetative layer in a certain range. If the greenhouse operates continuously, the fertile soil will be heated due to heat exchange with the internal air. Moreover, its temperature will be almost the same as under natural conditions in summer.

The soil and ground layers freeze in winter to a depth depending on the geographic latitude of the region and structure rock. To warm the soil and the adjacent top layer before planting, it is necessary to either maintain a positive air temperature for a very long time (up to a month).

An alternative solution is to carry out special actions to transfer heat directly into the soil. This can be done using a system of underground pipes into which coolant is supplied.

The amount of energy spent on heating the greenhouse depends on the following factors:

• Surface area of ​​greenhouse walls and roof. The lower this indicator, the less heat loss. Therefore, to save energy, it is better to use a rectangular or semicircular shape of the structure.
• Thermal conductivity coefficient of the material. The lower this parameter, the better the material retains heat.
• Temperature difference between indoor and outdoor air. The higher its value, the greater the heat loss.
• Air exchange through leaks. To reduce energy costs, it is necessary to eliminate the uncontrolled flow of cold air.

The wide variety of private greenhouse designs and the quality of their installation seriously complicate temperature regime modeling. Therefore, it is possible to accurately determine the amount of energy required to heat a particular object only experimentally.

Such methods approximately calculate the required power of the heating device. The problem is the difficulty of determining the dispersion coefficient for a specific object (+)

Autonomous heating based on fuel combustion

Using the combustion process as a heat source is the most commonly used method for heating small greenhouses. Such heating has some specifics, since it is necessary to take into account the increased tightness of the room, the desirability of heating the soil and the need to maintain humidity.

Stoves and solid fuel boilers

One of the simplest devices used to heat greenhouses during cold periods is a stove. The popularity of using such a device is due to the low cost of fuel. It can be uncalibrated firewood, dry grass, coal and coal dust, garbage and flammable liquids.

When heating with stoves, it is necessary to ensure stable draft, since ventilating the greenhouse if combustion products get inside will lead to its cooling.

When using a metal stove, heating occurs quickly and energy is transferred to the surrounding air. It is also the cheapest and easiest to use heating method. You can build such a unit yourself.

On our website there is a selection of articles on making different types metal stoves that can be used to heat a greenhouse:

A stone stove heats up more slowly and retains heat longer. This is more suitable for heating small spaces with a medium or narrow temperature range. However, such a stove must be folded and, if necessary, cannot be moved, like its metal counterpart.

There is an idea of ​​heating space in a greenhouse using hot combustion products. To do this, it is proposed to place the stove in a pit, and lay the chimney horizontally below ground level with its subsequent exit to the surface.

With this placement of the chimney, there will be a significant increase in its length, as a result of which hot gases will give off more heat inside the room

This option will really increase the heating efficiency.

However, during practical implementation the following difficulties will arise:

1. Requirements for chimney assembly material. The air temperature leaving the furnace is very high. Therefore, the chimney should not have good heat transfer, otherwise the soil around it will burn out. Asbestos pipes can be used as a material for removing combustion products.
2. Compliance with the rules for placement of chimneys. It will be necessary to provide inspection windows in the chimney to clean it from soot. Therefore, you need to lay the pipe between the beds.
3. The need for power supply. A long horizontal section does not contribute to the creation of normal draft, so it will be necessary to install a smoke exhauster. This means the need to supply electricity to the greenhouse or periodically recharge the battery.

Therefore, the idea of ​​underground chimney placement has not found wide application in practice.

Instead of a standard stove, you can use solid fuel ones. They burn fuel more efficiently and do not allow rapid heat release, which eliminates the possibility of damage to plants from high temperatures. Such factory-made boilers are easy to use and maintain, and are also compact.

Gas boilers and convectors

For greenhouses, a good alternative to stove heating is the use of a gas or convector. For small private buildings, equipment operating on the basis of gas cylinders is usually used.

Before installing a gas boiler in a greenhouse, it is necessary to thoroughly strengthen one of the walls to which it will be attached

It is better to place the gas cylinder outside the greenhouse. But in this case, it is necessary to solve the issue of preventing freezing of the gearbox during a long period with negative temperatures.

Connecting a greenhouse to the gas network is a rather complicated bureaucratic procedure. In addition, during the annual mandatory inspection by a gas service specialist, comments will be made.

In any case, the presence of a combination of gas supply and the use of open fire in a confined space requires increased safety measures. The best solution is to have a gas analyzer, as well as an automatic flame extinguishing system that is triggered when the maximum permissible concentration of a flammable substance in the air is exceeded.

From the standpoint of comparing the financial costs of installing and using stoves and gas equipment, it is impossible to draw an unambiguous conclusion. A simple gas convector costs about 12-14 thousand rubles.

This is more expensive than metal devices running on solid fuel:

• metal costs and Consumables at self-production potbelly stoves cost about 3 thousand rubles;
• A small-sized factory solid fuel installation, for example, the NVU-50 Tulinka model, costs about 6.6 thousand rubles.
• a long-burning installation model NV-100 “Klondike” costs about 9 thousand rubles.

A stone stove will be more expensive than a gas convector due to the cost of building the foundation and laying it.

It is advisable to install a stone stove if you are sure that the greenhouse will be located at this location for more than one year

The cost of liquefied or natural gas spent on heating any room will be cheaper than purchased firewood and coal. However, greenhouses are heated, as a rule, with free or cheap combustible waste, which is always sufficient in rural and dacha areas.

The problem of air leaks and humidity

The use of heating devices in which open combustion of fuel occurs leads to the need to remove combustion products through the chimney. In this case, compensation for the volume of exhaust air is necessary.

In buildings, it is possible through uncontrolled inflow (infiltration) which occurs due to the presence of cracks and holes in the walls and ceiling.

The design of modern greenhouses, such as polycarbonate, creates an airtight space. In this case, the problem of air intake is solved by the presence of vents and the installation of a special supply opening.

It should be placed in such a way as to avoid a concentrated flow of cold air onto the plants. It is also possible to use several small holes to organize a distributed inflow.

Exhaust systems for closed-type gas convectors are already equipped with a pipe for the flow of outside air into the combustion chamber.

Often after operation of furnaces and boilers, the effect of air drying is observed. This is due to the lower absolute humidity of the incoming cold flow (especially frosty) in relation to the warm air leaving the greenhouse through the chimney.

To maintain accurate air humidity parameters, a humidifier with a hygrometer is used, which can be powered by a local energy source. If there is no such need, you can place an open container of water in the greenhouse. Then in case of strong air drying naturally an evaporation process will occur.

Ways to distribute heat evenly

For small greenhouses, placing one heating source is sufficient. Air circulation in the room will be ensured due to the vertical temperature difference and, thus, warm air will be distributed.

In any greenhouse, when it is heated, a slight vertical temperature difference occurs. This must be remembered when placing thermometers

In rooms of large area or complex geometry, it is possible to form zones with different microclimate parameters. This is sometimes done on purpose in industrial greenhouses, but in most cases this phenomenon is undesirable.

To distribute heat evenly, two methods are used:

• Creation of artificial air circulation. Blade fans are usually used. Sometimes an air duct system with integrated pumps is constructed so that air is taken in at one end of the room and exhausted at the other.
• Heat transfer due to intermediate coolant. As a rule, an ordinary water system with forced circulation is used. Pipes can be laid both around the perimeter of the greenhouse and under the soil layer.

Forced heat distribution is also necessary to prevent the formation of a high temperature zone near the heater. Otherwise, plants located near the stove or boiler may suffer thermal damage.

Popular heating methods without open fire

The use of open fire has some limitations, since combustion waste is released, and fire safety measures must be observed. Therefore, other methods are often used to release heat into the greenhouse room.

Application of electrical appliances

Using electricity to heat a greenhouse in winter is the most expensive method. However, it is also the simplest, since the installation of such heating only includes electrical wiring and installation of devices.

The use of simple automation systems frees people from the need to participate in constant microclimate monitoring.

The connection diagram for several heaters via a thermostat is quite simple. The only problem may be a power outage, so you need to consider connecting additional power sources (+)

Electric heating of a greenhouse can be done using the following devices:

• Heater. The simplest and cheapest device that you can make yourself.
• Convector. The presence of a fan allows, in addition to heating the air, to distribute it evenly throughout the greenhouse.
• Heat pump. A powerful device for heating air in large-volume greenhouses, which is often used in conjunction with an air duct system to distribute heat. To heat a compact room you can do it yourself.
• Infrared lamps. The specificity of the operation of such devices is to heat the surface on which the radiation hits. Thus, it is possible to level out the vertical temperature gradient in the room without using air circulation.
• Heating cable. It is used to heat local areas in a greenhouse.

In the case of small premises, the use of electric heating is justified due to its simplicity and safety. In large and industrial greenhouses it is advisable to use other methods.

The heating cable is well suited for heating the ground. Its maximum temperature is not high, so there is no fear of the effect of burning the soil with loss of its qualities

Biochemical heat release

One of the interesting methods of heating is to add unrotted organic fertilizer to the soil - animal manure or bird droppings. As a result of the biochemical reaction, a large amount of energy is released, which increases the temperature of the fertile layer and the air inside the room.

When manure rots, carbon dioxide, methane, as well as small amounts of hydrogen and hydrogen sulfide are released. Manure also has a specific odor. All this imposes certain restrictions on its use related to the need to ventilate the room.

In winter, as well as during prolonged cold spells in spring and autumn, intensive air exchange is undesirable. In this case, restoring the thermal balance after ventilation may require a significantly larger amount of energy than was released as a result of the process of rotting manure.

The use of such a “biological” method of heating the earth and air is justified in late spring, when ventilation occurs at positive daytime temperatures.

Systems with external heat source

Heating of the greenhouse is possible due to the close location of the house or other heated building. This simplifies the entire procedure, since there is no need to install an autonomous heat source. Using wired or wi-fi relays, you can remotely receive information about the temperature in the greenhouse and regulate its microclimate from home.

An ordinary wi-fi temperature complex consisting of a sensor and a relay costs about 2 thousand rubles. When the temperature goes out of range, it transmits its values ​​to devices running Windows or Android

Creating a separate heating circuit

If the house uses water or steam heating, then it is possible to create a separate circuit leading to the greenhouse. It must be equipped with a separate pump, since the total horizontal length of the new segment will be large.

You also need to install an open expansion tank in the greenhouse to remove air from the system. Square open water the tank must be minimized to prevent intense evaporation of hot water into the room.

Radiators are rarely installed in a greenhouse, since the design of its premises plays a secondary role. If there is a lack of heat, it is better to lengthen the pipe contour, as this is cheaper and reduces the risk of leaks and breakdowns.

The outdoor segment of the circuit must be insulated to avoid heat loss and minimize the risk of freezing. The underground option for placing pipes is best suited for these purposes.

Connecting the heating segment of the greenhouse to the general circuit can be done using a three- or four-way valve.

Standard connection diagram for an additional heating circuit. The location of the taps in the house allows you to remotely regulate the air temperature in the greenhouse (+)

It is also possible to create an automatic temperature control system.

This can be done in the following ways:

• Changing the volume of hot water passed through depending on the readings of temperature sensors. In this case, it is necessary to purchase a pump with power control.
• Turning the greenhouse heating circuit on and off. For this use automatic systems crane control.

Instead of manually changing the position of a three- or four-way valve, servo-based devices can be used. Its electronic control unit is tuned to the readings placed in the greenhouse.

The servomotor for automatic adjustment is large in relation to the valve. Therefore, to install it, it is necessary to remove the heating pipe from the wall

Heating using extract air

Good heating can be obtained by using the warm air of the exhaust ventilation of a residential building. By directing the insulated ventilation duct inside the greenhouse, you can get a constant incoming flow with a temperature of 20-25°C.

The only condition is that the air does not contain excess moisture and impurities that are typical for kitchens and bathrooms.

Air outflow from the greenhouse can be organized in two ways:

• Local exhaust vent to the street in the form of a tube without a fan. It must be of small cross-section to create high speed flow. In this case, at negative street temperatures, the condensation formation zone will be located at some distance from the tube, which will prevent the formation of ice.
• Return the flow back using an additional air duct and obligatory connection to the general house hood. Otherwise, odors from the greenhouse will spread throughout all areas of the house.

This method is the most economical in terms of one-time costs for installing the system and recurring costs for fuel use. The only question remains whether the hood volume is sufficient to maintain the required temperature. It is better to check this experimentally.

If sometimes, during extreme cold snaps, the air temperature in the greenhouse drops below the permissible level, then you can build a small air heater into the air duct, or install an additional electrical appliance on the site itself.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Homemade stove with a long chimney for heating a greenhouse:

Most projects can be implemented on our own, which will reduce their cost and provide an opportunity for further independent modernization.

Ecology of consumption. Manor: Heating a greenhouse in winter is probably the biggest expense item. Consider how to organize the heating of a greenhouse in winter, if possible without investing large amounts of money.

Without a doubt, a greenhouse on a personal plot is a necessary structure.

This building, indispensable for the gardener, acquires even greater value when the possibility of heating it is provided.

Growing early vegetables, herbs, strawberries and seedlings, and with year-round use of a heated greenhouse - and obtaining such products in the winter - is this not an obvious benefit?

Especially for those who make money this way: vitamins in winter and early spring are not a cheap pleasure and the demand for them is great.

The ability to harvest 2-3 crops makes this business even more cost-effective.

Growing tropical and ornamental plants has now become a fashionable hobby. And it is possible to provide them with appropriate climatic conditions throughout the year only in a greenhouse or winter garden, where heating is present.

How to build a greenhouse with heating? or add heating to an existing one?

How to make heating in a greenhouse?

There are many ways to heat a greenhouse with your own hands. For these purposes, different schemes are used:

• stove heating for greenhouses
• gas heating greenhouse
• electric heating of greenhouse
• steam heating in a greenhouse
• hot water

You can, for example, when laying the foundation of a greenhouse, attach an electrical circuit to it using heating cables for heated floors. This option practically does not take up the space of this building, while providing good heating of both air and soil.

But the use of electric heaters is not a very convenient solution.

The fact is that in the absence of normal air circulation, the greenhouse area will warm up unevenly, i.e., if one part of the space turns out to be excessively overheated, then the heat will not reach the other at all.

Normalize movement air flow you can by installing a fan. However, the process of its operation also leads to cooling of the air. There is another negative point here - energy costs will increase significantly.

To make heating a greenhouse with your own hands rational, to create comfortable conditions for plant growth, especially if you are heating the greenhouse in winter, you should choose a type that will ensure complete heating of the soil and air.

Selecting a heating system

Choosing a greenhouse heating system should take into account:

• building dimensions
• method of heating the house itself
• their financial capabilities.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

It is important that the heating system is combined with the type of greenhouse.

It is known that heating film greenhouses, for example, requires more heat release than heating greenhouses made of polycarbonate - a material that itself is a worthy heat insulator.

It is necessary to take into account the features of the system. For example, some of them, due to their high cost, are completely unsuitable for standard, small area greenhouses. Other systems require professional installation and configuration.

This is especially important when it comes to heating industrial greenhouses, where advanced technologies are used, such as heat pumps, infrared heating and others.

Having decided on home-made heating of the greenhouse, the first thing you need to do is to “feel” the entire technology of the process, take into account all the pros and cons of the chosen heating system.

It is necessary to correctly calculate the heating of the greenhouse in order to achieve the most rational distribution of heat in this room.

Now briefly about each method of heating.

Water heating

It is possible to install hot water heating of the greenhouse, operating both on electricity and on gas.

The heat source is hot water circulating through pipes that run inside the greenhouse or under the floor.

The scheme and principle of operation of water heating of a greenhouse is as follows: a coolant (heated water) circulates through pipes closed in the system, which, having given off heat to the atmosphere, again enters the boiler, where it is reheated.

A larger number of pipes allows you to lower the temperature of the water heating. It should be noted that the pipe system tends to heat up rather slowly.

The boiler is the main element of such heating for greenhouses. Its choice is determined by the specific situation.

In areas where a gas pipeline is laid, gas boilers are often in demand as the most economical option.

While the heating is powered by electricity, the following happens: the water heated in the boiler is supplied through a circulation pump into pipes that can be laid along the walls of the greenhouse or between the plants.

When installing a water heating system, copper, steel and plastic pipes are used. The latter is just what is needed in this case. They are light, affordable and do not rust.

The circulation of water in the system is usually forced, facilitated by an installed pump, or less often - natural.

When connecting thermostats to pipelines and radiators, it becomes possible to maintain a certain temperature automatically.

When laying pipes for underground heating, it must be borne in mind that steel is not suitable for these purposes. Metal corrosion will destroy and disable such a heating system.

The disadvantages of hot water heating of a greenhouse include the complexity of installing a pipe system, a high price and the need for constant monitoring.

The positive side is that there is a simultaneous heating of air and soil.

Connection to an existing heating system

Before you do anything, you need to make sure that the boiler can provide the required pressure.

In addition, it makes no sense to connect to an existing system if the greenhouse is located at a distance of more than 10 m from the house.

And since the pipes laid to it must be insulated, then it will cost quite a lot. It is also necessary to take into account that the greenhouse needs heating most of all at night. This is when adjustable heating systems can lower the temperature. Here it is important to consider the priority of connection to the greenhouse.

Infrared heating

For infrared heating of greenhouses use:

• infrared lamps for greenhouses
• infrared heaters

If we take into account the fact that such an energy carrier as electricity is the most expensive, then it becomes clear why the plan heating system is gaining momentum.

Possessing high efficiency, they heat plants and soil without heating the air.

Then, the already heated soil and the structure of the room release heat into the surrounding atmosphere. Moreover, it is warmer below, i.e. the soil warms up well.

Savings become possible due to the fact that the infrared heater does not work constantly. It can be equipped with a thermostat that controls the temperature. The IR heater turns on only to maintain the required temperature.

It is essential that infrared radiation is completely harmless to people and plants. By using infrared heating in a greenhouse, it is possible to create different temperature bands for different types of plants, which is very comfortable for planting.

This heating is ideal when you need to raise the temperature in the greenhouse in a short period of time. The heaters reach the set temperature in just ten minutes.

Air heating

It is easier to build air heating for a greenhouse with your own hands than water heating.

With this method, air is used as a coolant.

It is pumped between the walls of the boiler and the firebox, heating up, and then it is distributed through the air duct system.

A perforated polyethylene sleeve is laid around the perimeter of the entire room. Warm air flows through it, which evenly warms the soil.

Advantage this method– quick heating of a greenhouse of any size.

The disadvantage of this heating system is that you have to constantly monitor the humidity in the greenhouse. This heating method helps to sharply reduce it.

Wood heating

When choosing a heating option for a greenhouse space, taking into account the increase in electricity and gas tariffs that occurs with enviable regularity, it is worth paying attention to an alternative method - heating the greenhouse with wood.

Buleryan type ovens are very suitable for this purpose. Their use allows you to organize the heating of the greenhouse in such a way that night trips for the next laying of firewood are not required. The room heats up quickly, and the temperature is maintained at the set level for a long time.

One stack of firewood is enough for 6-8 hours. The stove body does not heat up, which completely ensures safety.

You can build a stove for heating greenhouses with your own hands, or, as an option, a stove with a horizontal chimney.

Its structure is as follows: in the vestibule a firebox is made of brick, and in the greenhouse, along its entire length, a chimney is laid under the shelving. It is through this that carbon monoxide passes and leaves the room through the pipe on the other side.

The heat released during this process warms our building.

Combined heating method

Combined boilers are used quite widely. They are convenient because they make it possible to instantly respond to changing operating conditions.

At the same time, the disadvantages of one heating method can be successfully covered by the advantages of another. For example, a power outage will not take you by surprise if heating is provided that runs on wood, gas, or coal.

When there is a backup heat source, you can safely calculate future profits from a rich harvest.

Which method to choose for heating a greenhouse is up to everyone to decide for themselves.

To choose the optimal method of heating a structure that is so necessary in a suburban area, you should very carefully calculate each available option. And in the end, understand for yourself which heating is better for a greenhouse, more economical, more profitable and more convenient. published

P.S. And remember, just by changing your consumption, we are changing the world together! © econet

The greenhouse is called the best option for growing vegetable and fruit crops in climate conditions characterized by heavy rainfall, frost and partial winds. First of all, the early harvest from your greenhouse is harvested thanks to the heating system, because for most plants, solar radiation is sufficient only in the summer. If you plan to use your greenhouse throughout the year, like, for example, a winter garden, the question of how to make heating in a greenhouse should be key for you.

Why do you need a heating system?

Have you set yourself the goal of growing seedlings, herbs and vegetables in the spring months? Then you won’t need a heating system to get the harvest. But growing exotic fruits and fresh vegetables in severe frosts is not possible without special equipment in the building, because the minimum temperature that must be maintained in a greenhouse is 18 degrees above zero. And in this case, impenetrable and warm walls alone cannot be used.

The most budget-friendly way to heat a greenhouse is if a heating main is laid under the dacha plot. Then find required space, and the problem of how to heat a greenhouse will be solved forever. In other cases, it is more difficult to organize heating in such a structure, but it is quite possible.

First, you should understand what methods of homemade heating of greenhouses are possible today. There are three types of heating: biological, solar and technical. There are many known heating methods using the latest method, and you can choose any one. Stove heating can be used, natural gas, electricity, hot water.

Solar heating and batteries

The task for greenhouses and greenhouses is to create a microclimate that is favorable for good growth plants. The required humidity and warmth are the main indicators of a favorable environment. The cheapest way to heat greenhouses is solar.

The sun's rays penetrate through the transparent coating of the greenhouse, heat the soil and objects in it, and the air warms up from them. the main task The gardener's idea is to choose a place for the greenhouse that will be the most illuminated during the day.

If this is not possible, then you should give preference to a place where the sun shines from the very morning so that the earth warms up from the beginning of the day. And the temperature in the greenhouse will rise to its maximum level in the evening. A place for the greenhouse must be chosen without drafts so that the coating does not cool. Additionally, it is recommended to create wind barriers.

When choosing the shape of a greenhouse, it is better to give preference to an arched vault, because such a shape contributes the least to heat loss. To ensure the best heating for the soil, the height of the greenhouse should not be made too high.

You can arrange heating of the greenhouse using solar heat accumulators. First, dig a 15-centimeter hole in the greenhouse and cover the ground with a layer of heat insulation. Place a layer of plastic film on top for waterproofing.

Then you should lay coarse wet sand on top and cover the whole thing with the excavated soil. Due to the accumulated energy of the sun, this simple device will allow you to maintain a satisfactory temperature in the greenhouse even at a temperature of 10 degrees Celsius.

Air heating

The simplest option for heating greenhouses or greenhouses is a primitive air heating device. To do this, take a piece of steel pipe that has a diameter of 50-60 centimeters and a length of about 2-2.5 meters. Insert one end of the pipe into the film greenhouse, and light a fire under the other.

The last thing you need to do is keep the fire going. The air in the pipe will heat up quickly, then it will enter the greenhouse and give off heat to the berries and vegetable crops being grown. This heating method is indeed easy, but completely inconvenient, because fire is needed constantly.

Heating with gas

The advantage of gas is its stability in terms of supply, but the final price of products from the greenhouse will truly surprise you. Therefore, if heating a greenhouse with gas during the winter cold lasts only a few weeks, then it is not at all necessary to pull a wire from a residential building and buy expensive pipes. It is enough to take several cylinders for this purpose, they will last for a long time.

Remember that an excess of carbon dioxide does not affect the condition of plants in the most positive way, and therefore such a greenhouse must be well ventilated. In order to remove combustion waste, it is recommended to use an exhaust device to ensure a constant supply of oxygen to the greenhouse.

So that the lack of oxygen does not provoke the cessation of the combustion process and the release of gas into the air, it is better, of course, to purchase heaters that are equipped with an automatic protective device. As soon as the gas supply to the burner stops, the sensors will immediately operate.

Installation of a solid fuel boiler

The heating system in the greenhouse can be organized using a solid fuel boiler. The boiler itself can be installed directly in the greenhouse itself or in a separate room. The advantages of the second option are that you can put fuel or firewood into the boiler without entering the greenhouse structure. In addition, the boiler and fuel will not take up valuable space in the greenhouse.

It is necessary to put fuel into the heat generator twice a day, nothing more is required. And at the same time, such a boiler is absolutely fireproof, and therefore it can be safely left at night without any control. In addition, fuel consumption is quite small. And the minus of heating a greenhouse using a solid fuel boiler is that the device produces a little energy, which would not be superfluous in a greenhouse.

Stove heating

The technical method of heating greenhouses involves the installation of special furnaces. Such designs are suitable for use in rooms that have an area of ​​​​approximately 15 square meters. There are 2 technologies for heating a greenhouse using a stove.

First option

The simplest greenhouse stove consists directly of the stove itself, a horizontal chimney and a chimney. To protect seedlings and vegetables from smoke and soot, as well as from temperature changes, it is customary to bring the firebox opening into the vestibule of the greenhouse. The chimney duct of the stove, passing under the racks, must be laid with a slight overestimation to the pipe (approximately 1.5 centimeters for each meter of chimney length) in order to create more effective draft.

Be sure to leave at the entrance of the channel for the removal of combustion products into the chimney a sack hole for cleaning and kindling the chimney channel before the stove is fired with low draft in bad weather.

According to safety rules and heating calculations for greenhouses, the distance between the greenhouse walls, stove and chimney should reach 25 centimeters, and the minimum distance between the shelving and the top of the chimney should be about 15 centimeters. After installing the stove, the chimney and the pipe inside the greenhouse must be whitewashed with chalk or lime. In the future, this will allow cracks to be detected in time.

Unlike electric heating of a greenhouse, classic stove heating is not so burdensome in terms of financially. So, you can build your own ordinary greenhouse stove with a horizontal chimney or a hog at no extra cost.

Second option

Take a large barrel, with a capacity of approximately 3 cubes. This will be some basis for future equipment for heating the greenhouse. In order not to rust, paint the barrel from the inside in two layers. Inside the barrel, it is customary to make holes for the chimney, stove, expansion tank and drain cock. The stove must be welded and inserted into the barrel.

A chimney should be removed from the barrel and a pipe 5 meters high should be installed on the street. A home-made expansion tank of about 20 liters is mounted on top of the barrel, which is pre-cooked from simple sheet iron. For the heating system, profile pipes 40 by 20 by 1.5 are used, which should be laid out on the ground at a distance of 1.2 meters.

So the pipes are laid out so that the soil near the roots of the plants warms up well. To circulate water in such a home-made greenhouse heating system, it is recommended to purchase a special pump.

You can heat the stove in a barrel using any wood, and the drain valve, which is located at the bottom of the barrel, is usually used to drain the water, of course, and also for the purpose of drip irrigation when the water cools down. To control the temperature in such a greenhouse, you can install an electronic temperature sensor inside it, and directly in the house - the digital display itself.

Water heating

Water heating is considered one of the most profitable methods for arranging home-made heating of a greenhouse in material terms. A water heater can be made by hand. There are two ways of such heating.

Solution #1

So, you will need a body of an old fire extinguisher that you do not need, the top of which should be cut off. At the bottom of the case, mount a heat electric heater TEN, which has a power of 1 kW. A similar unit can be taken from a samovar, which is powered by an electrical network. To make it possible to pour water into the electric heater, make a removable cover on top.

It is necessary to attach 2 water pipes connected to the radiator to the body. It is recommended to secure the pipes using rubber sealing gaskets and nuts. To automate the operation of the heater, it is better to use an AC relay circuit.

As soon as the temperature sensor is triggered, it will close the contacts. The water heater will heat the water, which in turn will raise the temperature in the greenhouse. When the water reaches a certain level, the temperature sensor will work immediately and the relay power circuit will be broken. This will turn off the electric water heater. If you cannot find such a relay, you can use another greenhouse heating scheme, where the relay is equipped with contacts that do not pass current less than 5A.

Solution #2

In this case, a small amount of worn pipes, an electric welding machine and a heating element are used. In a convenient corner of the greenhouse, install a boiler that has a volume of close to 50 liters, and a 2 kilowatt electric heater. When heated, water will rise through the riser to the expansion tank, and will be supplied to the heating system, which is located around the entire perimeter. The system itself must be made with a slight slope of the pipes.

The boiler can be made from a piece of pipe that has a large diameter, to which it is customary to weld the bottom with a flange. Connect the heating elements to the power plug and securely insulate them. All joints between the housing and the flange must be well sealed using a rubber gasket. From pipe scraps, make an expansion tank with a volume of up to approximately 30 liters. Weld couplings at both ends and below to connect to the system and to the boiler riser.

You need to cut out a cap in the tank itself to add water, because its level will have to be constantly monitored. The ends of the metal pipes should be threaded in advance to organize a convenient connection, then make a pipeline from them. After that, it is worth grounding the boiler body using a flexible three-core copper wire, which is designed for voltages above 500 V.

Attach both wires to the phases of the heating element, and the third wire to the boiler body. By the way, during cold weather you can use special screens made of foil or other heat-reflecting material. When choosing any greenhouse heating project, it is recommended that you follow safety guidelines and follow the instructions carefully.

Warm floor system

Heating in a greenhouse can be created using a “warm floor” system, which can be presented in several options; the choice of design depends on the area of ​​the building and operating conditions. Amateur gardeners often purchase a system in the form of a waterproof heating mat.

Advantages of heated floors

For creating seedlings and adult specimens necessary conditions To encourage their growth, it is common to place a heating mat under plant trays. In this way, a constant temperature in the greenhouse will be maintained. Heating mats come in different sizes, so you can always watch a video about heating greenhouses and choose an acceptable option for a greenhouse of any size.

The use of a heating cable will allow seedlings to be planted early, heat-loving plants that have come to us from subtropical and tropical latitudes to be grown in greenhouses and winter gardens, seeds to germinate in greenhouses, and also to preserve tubers, bulbs, seedlings and vegetables from frost.

Requirements for installation of a heating system

When installing heating systems, you need to create a sand cushion that protects the cable from damage. These functions are performed by a protective mesh. Instead of a sand cushion, other materials can be used to heat the greenhouse, for example, concrete screed, which significantly increases the useful life of the system. It is customary to lay the heating cable across the width of the bed.

To prevent the soil from drying out, it is recommended to be guided by the following power requirements for the “warm floor” system: 70-120 W/m2 for heating a greenhouse with single glazing and 50-100 W/m2 for heating a greenhouse with double glazing. The maximum electricity costs in greenhouses with year-round heating occur in the winter months (November - March), the minimum costs when operating the system in the spring and summer.

Installation of heated floors

Remove a layer of soil (approximately 40 centimeters) and apply a sand base. Lay a heat-insulating layer of moisture-resistant material. You can use polyethylene foam or polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation will prevent heat from escaping into the soil. It is customary to lay a waterproofing layer, for example, polyethylene film, on top of the heat-insulating layer.

After this, apply a layer of sand (5 centimeters), pour water on it and compact it tightly. Using mounting tape or mesh, lay the wire in a “snake” pattern, which must be covered with sand to a height of up to 10 centimeters. The recommended minimum sand cover is 5 centimeters. The cable laying pitch is approximately 15 centimeters.

Lay a chain-link mesh on top of the sand layer, which creates reliable protection for the wire from mechanical damage, and add a fertile layer of soil that is 30-35 centimeters high. In order to protect the cable from overheating, it is worth using a thermostat with a ground temperature control sensor, which is installed in a corrugated tube.

Temperature

The “warm floor” system includes a thermostat with a ground temperature sensor, which allows you to set the heating temperature. For the development of crops, the most favorable temperature regime is 15-25 degrees above zero. For growing seedlings in greenhouse conditions, including in peat pots, the optimal temperature is about 30 degrees Celsius.

Using the regulator, you can set the soil heating temperature - for example, 20-25 degrees. After heating the soil to the specified parameter, the device automatically turns off, and when cooled, it automatically turns on. The system ultimately works as the temperature rises and falls, which saves at least 30% of electricity.

Thus, large agro-industrial and homestead farms that grow flowers, herbs and vegetables have to install a heating system in such structures with their own hands to maintain at any temperature external environment optimal indoor microclimate.